The Best Luggage to Take on All Your Holiday Travels

Holiday travel… Those two words alone can incite an unnecessary amount of stress, given how exhausting getting from point A to point B can feel this time of year. If you happen to have a holiday schedule like mine that involves flying clear across the country to go home to see family, then you know all too well that the luggage you choose to bring along with you can make or break your trip.

I’ve found that the best way to pack efficiently is to have different pieces of luggage for every type of trip and every vacation duration. Because I can say from experience that it’s all too easy to overpack if you bring the same full-size bag along every time you’re heading for the airport. So just in time for the busiest travel season of the year, we’re bringing you our guide to the best luggage.

From a quick day trip to an extended stay abroad, shop for the exact luggage you need to travel in style this holiday season.

Yes, this is in fact a dusty-pink corduroy bag. We’ve officially found the tote of our dreams.
We didn’t think we needed a white-leather tote bag until now.
Contemporary architectural details are what leather-goods brand Building Block is known for.
This tote will go with everything.
Give us all the Acne Studios this holiday season, please and thank you.
Nail elevated athleisure with some help from this neoprene teal bag.
Star patterns are so festive this time of year.
A duffel to last you for years and years to come.
This also comes in green and beige.
A truly classic style.
You have to see the whimsical wintery print that lines the inside of this carry-on from Away’s collaboration with Gray Malin.
Made from fine Italian Saffiano leather, this may just be the chicest suitcase we’ve ever laid eyes on.
The brown details on this case are giving us a retro-cool vibe.
A carry-on is the perfect piece of luggage to try out in a fun new color.
A glossy red hardshell case means never losing your belongings at baggage claim.
This large checked-baggage suicase is the ideal piece for the savvy traveler on a budget. Hardshell, 360-degree wheels, and in a cute Millennial Pink shade for under $ 200? Unheard of!
Sleek and cool.
This suitcase comes with a complementary Bluetooth tracker.
No one in Hollywood seems to travel without this pick.
Tumi products are designed to be virtually damage-proof. So feel free to take this timeless piece on every single trip with you, short or long. The ultimate in holiday gift guides for every single person on your list.

Celebrity Style and Fashion Trend Coverage | http://www.whowhatwear.com

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A quick thanks to Dappered’s advertisers – November 2017

Above Photo Credit: Jacob Davies

We like our advertisers. They get it. They get that you guys in the readership don’t want enormous ads, advertorials, or a site with so many ad spaces that it’s hard to find the content. We try and keep the amount of ad space on Dappered limited on purpose. Keeps the site uncluttered. So we use affiliate links to help pay the bills and keep the content machine running. That means if you click to buy a thing, a small commission will come our way (the price you pay is unaffected). Make sure to read our affiliate disclosure for more info, which is always available on the right hand side of the site under Joe’s measurements.

And every once in a while a business comes a long who wants a presence in that limited ad space. And that’s awesome. So we’ve decided to start publishing a monthly list of our direct advertisers to say thanks to them, and also so that you guys stay informed.

We’ve never taken money to review a product or run a giveaway, nor do we keep free samples for ourselves. But to further our efforts to stay as unbiased as possible, we’ll be letting you guys know who’s buying ads from us, directly each month (as opposed to just running an ad network like Google AdSense with tons of advertisers which we do most of the time).

So with that said, here’s this month’s list of direct advertisers:

The site where Amazon houses higher end designer goods, but with the fast and reliable shipping policies of Amazon. And if you’re a Prime member, even better, because those Amazon Prime benefits apply. Some of their product might be a little too fashion forward, or luxury priced, for the majority of guys that read this website, but that doesn’t mean all of their stock is only runway-appropriate. They do have some more down to earth stuff as well, all backed by Amazon.

On a side note: Last month Allen Edmonds threw some ad dollars our way for their Rediscover America Sale. We forgot to run a quick thanks post to a) thank AE for supporting Dappered and b) be transparent with you guys. Our apologies for the delay in acknowledging this.

Many thanks to all our advertisers for supporting Dappered.com. 


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Of Course Hermès Had the Chicest Pop-Up Store in L.A.

When Hermès launches a pop-up shop, the expectation is that it will be inimitably chic. What might not be expected is that it draws inspiration from a retro laundromat. The interactive shop, dubbed Hermèsmatic, has been springing up in cities like New York, Washington D.C., and Nashville. The Westfield Century City mall in L.A. is the final stop on the tour.

The 1200-square-foot space is a dip-dye scarf concept shop, boasting shiny orange washing machines, walls lined with Hermès-branded boxes that resemble detergent, and videos demonstrating how to give your worn or vintage Hermès scarves new life by using a dip-dye washing technique. If one’s not feeling like getting in on the DIY, visitors can also purchase a silk scarf from the dip-dye collection. Hermèsmatic closes up shop Nov. 19, so if you’re in L.A. this weekend is your last chance to check it out.

Keep scrolling to check out photos of the Hermèsmatic pop-up.

Next up, see how Hermès wants you to tie your scarf.

Celebrity Style and Fashion Trend Coverage | http://www.whowhatwear.com

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Store Visits: Pasadena’s The BlokeIf you’ve never been to…

Store Visits: Pasadena’s The Bloke

If you’ve never been to Southern California, I will say this: Pasadena is an odd town. On the one hand, it has a sense of place that’s tough to find in a region where outside of central Los Angeles, things can feel like an uninterrupted exurb. It’s a real town, with big trees, third- and fourth-generation civic leaders and two really kick-ass parades. On the other, it has a deep conservative bent, and a casual So-Cal feel that’s more Cheesecake Factory than cutting edge.

It makes sense, then, that Pasadena would be the home of one of California’s odder simulacra: a recreation of London’s Burlington Arcade on an otherwise unassuming commercial street. Most of the shops are entirely unremarkable – there’s no Penhaligon’s perfumes, though there is a store that only sells houseplants.

Into this odd environment steps The Bloke, a new shop which specializes in the intersection between traditional English aesthetics and American Ivy style, with a dash of mod for good measure. Owner Jeffery Plansker is new to retail, having led a career as a director in advertising to this point, but the store has a personal feel. 

The square footage isn’t huge, but I found shirts and ties from Drake’s, sleepwear from Hilditch & Key and trousers from Tellason among the options on display. There were Sanders Playboy chukkas, a few Alden models and hats (I bought one) from the British stalwart Bates. There are also a few preppy classics, like some killer needlepoint belts and a rack of vintage club ties.

Among the cased accessories were some favorites of this blog, like the Junghans Max Bill wrist watch and Braun travel alarm clocks. There’s also a small browsing library of books on style (and lifestyle) from the owner’s personal collection, which included the braille edition of Playboy that our director Ben is reading above. There are also books and magazines for sale, including new copies of The Heritage Post, The Rake and Monocle and back issues of Japanese favorites like Vintage Life.

In an adjoining room is a pop-up space – it’s currently occupied by an installation of records, books and art from Groove Merchant in San Francisco. I brought home a couple of albums (Ray Barreto and the Fania All-Stars, if you’re keeping track), as well as a few back issues of the great music magazine Wax Poetics. The shop’s manager told me they’re getting new records every few weeks and that there will be further developments in the space every few months.

In can be hard to convince an Angeleno to cross town, but hopefully it won’t be too much to ask for the many Northeast Angelenos to stop by The Bloke next door in Pasadena. It’s a lovely shop with a breezy vibe and a air of sincere personality.

The Bloke

380 S. Lake Ave

Pasadena, California 91101

Wed-Sat 10-6 / Sun 12-5

(Photos by Jesse Thorn)

Put This On

FASHION UPDATE:

Hold Everything: Oversized Bags Are About to Be HUGE (Again)

Susie Bubble carries a trending oversized bag

Gives new meaning to the term “carryall”; Image: Edward Berthelot/Getty Images

Chiropractors of the world, rejoice. Oversized bags are once again in. Though the micro-bag trend is nowhere near over (see: the rise of fanny packs), several key fashion personalities — Raf Simons, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Demna Gvasalia, Alessandro Michele, Phoebe Philo — have aligned themselves with the schlepper cause. (What can we say? Fashion tends to operate in extremes.)

This past September, hobos, totes, bucket bags and shoppers of epic proportions made their way down the Spring 2018 runways of Céline, Calvin Klein and Chanel, to name just a few. (Given the commercial success of Balenciaga’s super-size, super expensive shopper bags, we were hardly surprised.)

Large enough to hold a full day’s (and night’s, and perhaps even a week’s, if you’re used to carrying a mini-bag) worth of essentials, this new crop of cool, capacious carryalls is all about utility. Need a change of shoes? Subway reading options? Gigantic headphones? All the moisturizing products (because winter)? As a wise man once said, “Just throw it in the bag.”

The trend towards bigger-is-better bags speaks to designers’ awareness of their costumers: modern, on-the-go women who, while freewheeling and decisive enough to pack their life into a mini bag, may prefer to travel not so light, for time or comfort’s sake. In keeping with said theme, pair yours with a bold-hued suit or glamleisure getup.

Two addenda:

1. Street style stars suggest you not fill your bag to the brim. Rather, keep it light and dangle it nonchalantly by your side. Big bags are fashion, bag lady vibes are not.

2. Rather than shell out a small fortune on a luxe tote, splurge on another big-ticket item and ask the sales clerk to bag it up in their largest logo-ed shopper or tote (which, in all likelihood, comes free with purchase). Two birds, one stone.

See the oversized bags coming in Spring 2018 and shop early takes on the trend in the slideshow below.

[ Next: Fashion’s Obsession With Supersized Sweaters Is Only Growing ]

The post Hold Everything: Oversized Bags Are About to Be HUGE (Again) appeared first on theFashionSpot.

theFashionSpot

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A brief history of the racy, lacy thong

At the star-studded Met Gala this past spring, Kendall Jenner donned a crystal-encrusted sheer sheath by luxe lingerie brand La Perla with a black thong plainly visible. But the skimpy skivvies haven’t always been so high fashion — or so in-your-face. Once derided as the underwear of choice for burlesque dancers and strippers, the thong…
Fashion | New York Post

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PR Consulting Is Hiring A PR Coordinator, Luxury Fashion In New York, NY

PR Consulting is a leading public relations agency specializing in fashion, beauty, hospitality and lifestyle. The Fashion division is currently seeking an organized and detail oriented PR Coordinator. Responsibilities: Monitor, track and circulate client press and celebrity coveragePrepare weekly, …

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Fashionista

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Believe It: This Is the Trend That Will Replace Leggings for Millennials

The athleisure trend, in all its sneaker-filled glory, has had a grip on the fashion industry for a while now, with scores of brands capitalizing on the demand. But as Business of Fashion reports, there’s a different market that’s growing more quickly than athleisure for the first time in several years: denim.

The numbers prove it. “According to data from retail technology company Edited, the first half of 2017 saw the women’s jeans market grow by 79 percent compared to the first half of 2016,” BoF reports. “Athleisure leggings, by comparison, grew just 35 percent.”

For more insight, Business of Fashion tapped Dio Kurazawa, the denim director at trend-forecasting company WGSN. “It’s not that athleisure is going away,” he told BoF. “It just means that folks are choosing not to have six different pairs of Lululemon tights and they’re opting to settle back into their denim. Millennials are driving the changes.”

Specifically, millennials are gravitating toward the vintage denim trend. Massimo Ferrucci, the jeanswear president of VF Corporation (which owns Wrangler and Lee), explained the trend to BoF: “The younger consumer is attracted very much by Americana, by originality and authenticity, by product that comes from the archive.” In fact, the trend is so huge that it prompted the launch of the new Levi’s Authorized Vintage collection, consisting of 50,000 old jeans that the brand purchased from the resale market. With that said, are you ready to swap your leggings for vintage jeans?

Scroll down to shop our favorite jeans right now.

Next up, shop the flattering $ 68 jeans with a cult following in Hollywood

Celebrity Style and Fashion Trend Coverage | http://www.whowhatwear.com

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How To Spot A Quality Suit

In this article, we focus on the quality hallmarks of a high-end suit aside from the fit.

 

 

Suit Label

A suit label can tell you a lot. Whether it’s a brand that produces off-the-rack suits or higher-end made-to-measure suits, if you know the brand, you know exactly what kind of quality level it’s at. For example, for Ralph Lauren, there is Ralph Lauren purple label which is their highest line and the most expensive one, black label is less expensive and tailored with a trimmer fit, Polo Ralph Lauren is again less expensive and then they have lower end lines like chaps from Ralph Lauren which is really low end. On the other hand, double RL has kind if a vintage aesthetic, it’s also a little more expensive. So understanding the brands that you’re interested in and whose aesthetic you like is paramount in identifying an expensive suit.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label

Ralph Lauren Purple Label

If you’re into vintage quality, if you’re lucky, sometimes you can find custom or bespoke suits at tailors. Now sometimes these come from different countries. Now if it says custom tailor or bespoke tailor, chances are it’s a higher-end suit. Also, the address can help if something says Savile Row on it or Via Monte Napoleone in Milan, you know it comes from an expensive street and chances are it’s an expensive garment.

On most bespoke suits, you cannot see the label right away, therefore, you have to look in the inside pockets. Don’t be fooled if you can’t find any composition labels or fabric labels because most bespoke suits won’t tell you what fabric it is, or what material composition the lining is made of, so if you’ve looked inside the pockets and inside the entire jacket and you can’t find any care labels or material labels, chances are it’s a very expensive suit.

Rounded corners

Rounded corners

Rounded Corners

On a custom-made suit, the tailor will take great care to round the corners so they don’t wear out prematurely, you will see the same rounding at the tips of the lapels which is where most companies do it, however, they don’t do it at the bottom of the jacket or at the ends of the sleeves. Of course, that alone it’s not a quality hallmark but if the corners are rounded, it just tells you that the rest is of high quality as well.

Pick Stitching

Pick Stitching

Pick-Stitching

It’s a slight stitching along the edge of the suit and traditionally, it was only been able to be made by hand. So back in the day, you can just look at a suit and if it was there, it was a quality suit. Because of that, some nifty Germans developed a machine called the AMF machine and it creates a stitch that looks handmade from afar but generally, it is very obvious. You can really spot it when you turn it around and look at the stitching from the back. Traditionally, a suit from England, or let’s say Germany, had a very subtle stitching that was only noticeable upon closer inspection; Italian suits, on the other hand, may have more flashy pick stitching and usually, you find it in the areas of the lapel and the collar all the way down the front quarters. Sometimes, you can also find pick stitching along the back seams, as well as the sleeves, and if you encounter that, you know it’s a quality suit because that’s not something that’s done on inexpensive garments.

 

 

inside stiching

inside stiching

Inside Stitching

A high-end suit will usually have a fair amount of handwork in it, that means, the lining is sewn by hand. You can check it on the sleeves, you can check the armhole which should be set in by hand, and you can look at the little details and see whether it’s a hand stitch or a machine stitch. The character of a hand stitch is that is slightly irregular, the hand stitch is more flexible than a machine stitch and because of that, it moves with you which makes you look better and feel more comfortable. In the same vein, when you have the suit in front of you, you can flip over the lapel and look for little pick stitching in the back. That is done when you have a interlined canvas and it gives you that lapel roll that’s so desirable. On a cheaper suit, you get flat ironed lapels and that’s not what a tailored garment is. Sometimes, you can see the stitching very clearly, other times you can just slightly feel it and slight dimples from the back but it’s hard to see because either the thread is too fine or it’s the same color, or it’s just not so obvious. High-end expensive suits should always have either a full canvas or no canvas at all that is all sewn. There should be no glue involved, not even a half canvas suit. 

 

 

Hand sewn collar

Hand sewn collar

Collar

Pop open your collar and look carefully how it’s sewn on. A cheaper or inexpensive suit will be machine sewn versus a quality high-end expensive suit, will be hand sewn. With little practice, you can determine what is a hand sewn collar because again, you see irregular stitches. Oftentimes, you see finer stitches sometimes you see contrast stitches whereas the machine-made collar is usually with a triangle stitch or just a very regular stitch that’s very stiff and not flexible.

Pattern matching

Pattern matching

Pattern Matching

A high-end suit will have a match pattern. It’s easiest to check that if you have let’s say a windowpane suit, maybe a prince of Wales check with an over plaid, or a striped suit. On a solid suit, it’s hard to see that skill because there’s no pattern that you can really match. Some tailors even line up the stripes on the back of the collar with your back or on the gorge which is the part between the collar and the lapel. Now, you can have an expensive suit that doesn’t have matched stripes, however, on the side of the pants, for example, you should always find a nicely matched pattern. On top of that, the back of the suit should also have a nicely matched pattern and if you have a windowpane, it should be aligned and the stripes should be symmetrical. So these are all good points to look at, the pattern matching because on a high-end suit, they’re usually matched. On the cheaper ones, they’re definitely not.

Buttonholes

Buttonholes

Buttonholes

A high-end expensive suit will always have handmade buttonholes that are a piece of art. If they’re machine made, they should be of the highest quality, have a very fine stitch, have maybe a gimp on them, and you can sometimes see it on bespoke suits, but most of the time, it’s a hand stitch buttonhole. How can you identify one? Turn it on the backside and you will see a slightly irregular stitch versus in the front, it looks very irregular. Also sometimes, it is raised such as for example, on a Milanese buttonhole, it’s a finer silk thread with a GIMP thread underneath and it certainly looks very different than a regular bespoke buttonhole. On the other hand, a cheaper suit oftentimes has fraying buttonholes. The stitching is not as fine, it’s very regular, and the front and back and that’s how you can identify if you’re an expensive suit or a cheap suit.

fabric reserve

fabric reserve

Fabric Reserve

Sometimes, an expensive suit has a half lining or is completely unlined and then you can actually look in the back seam in the center. If there’s a fabric reserve, you know you can only really test that if you hold it against the light source if there’s a lining, but an easier way to check the fabric reserve is the pants. Just flip them over and look at the sides and see if there’s some fabric reserve. You want at least two to three centimeters or one inch sometimes, there are two inches of reserve and it shows you it was made by a quality maker because cheaper suits usually save on the fabric and it doesn’t give you any room to expand or tailor a suit.

Grinze

Grinze

Grinze

If you have an Italian-made garment or anything from southern Europe, chances are you’ll see a kind of wavy pattern of fabric in the back. Sometimes, you can see it in shirts but also in suits, as well as sleeve hats, what I mean by that is a slight puckering which is produced by adding more fabric to let’s say the sleeve hat or the back in the shoulder. Some people like that because I think it adds a nonchalant sprezzatura element to their garments, other people who are maybe of a Viennese school, maybe a German tailoring school, or English tailoring school, think it is not proper. In any case, if you see it, you know it’s a more expensive garment because usually, that’s done by hand and cannot be done in a factory really and therefore, it’s a good hallmark to see it but it’s not very reliable because it’s only seen in southern European or Italian suits.

Two Hole buttons

Two Hole buttons

Buttons

A high-end suit has high-quality buttons. The standard is horn buttons and sometimes in Savile Row houses, they only have two holes versus the majority of all suits including some other bespoke suits, have four holes. That being said, if you find two hole buttons that have a slight indent, chances are it is a high-end suit. Even if you find four holes, it can be a high-end suit, it can be made from corozo such as you see it in Italy a lot, or horn, sometimes people even go with mother-of-pearl, even precious metals such as gold. The hallmark of a horn button, or a Corozo, or a mother of pearl button, is that they’re not consistent versus cheap plastic buttons often look exactly the same. Those will also break versus horn buttons are very unlikely to break just like corozo. So look for the holes and inconsistencies and if you can find that, it’s likely an expensive suit.

Shoulder Construction

Shoulder Construction

Shoulder Construction

For example, when you combine this side with a sleeve, you have fabric ends on both sides. If you fold them both towards the shoulder you create a shirt style shoulder which is also known as SPALLA CAMICIA in Italian, it’s a very distinctive look and if you see that, you know it is most likely a custom bespoke garment that is expensive and not a cheap off the rack suit. Basically, all off-the-rack suits and also some higher-end suits, have the shoulder and fold this way and the sleeve end folded that way. It gives you a less pronounced look of the shoulder seam and sometimes you find people who fold both of them towards the sleeve side and they may even add a little bit of extra layer in there to get a slightly elevated shoulder seam sleeve head which then drapes nicely down on the sleeve. It’s just a very nice look and you need a little experience for that because it’s not easy to spot for a beginner, but once you’re more into suits, you can immediately see what kind of shoulder it is.

Material Label

Material Label

Material Label

A high-end suit brand such as Ralph Lauren purple label will have material labels with 100% wool. They may have cashmere in it, there may be silk or cotton, but never polyester or nylon, even viscose is a lower-end option so look for these materials that are good. If you can’t find a material just as I said before, chances are it’s a bespoke suit and it’s an expensive one.

Waistband

Waistband

Trouser Waistband

If you have a pair of Hollywood rousers that means there’s no separate detached waistband but the pants are just held all the way up, and either you have suspender buttons or belt loops. If you encounter that, you know you have an expensive suit because that’s not something that’s made in a commercial off the rack or even a cheap suit. 

 

 

Monograms

Monograms

Monograms

Look for monograms on the inside, maybe some secret pockets, but the inside of a suit will often tell you if there were customizations done and if that’s the case, chances are it was a more expensive suit than something that has no customizations whatsoever.

CONCLUSION

Now that you know the key differences between a high-end suit and a cheap one, you will never have to settle for anything less. Looking dapper does not come cheap but it is definitely worth it. Don’t you agree? Share your thoughts below!


Gentleman’s Gazette

MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!

ESPRIT by Opening Ceremony Creates Bold Patterns for Winter

Opening Ceremony pairs up with ESPRIT for the year’s second collaborative drop. After releasing a pastel line in spring, this release looks towards college co-eds for inspiration.

Focusing heavily on plaid and leopard-printed comfy staples like sweatpants, the collection combines comfort with the bright colors ESPRIT is known for. Puffer jackets, sweaters and hoodies make up the range’s outerwear, all boasting a variety of bright patterns. Without catering to masculine or feminine cuts, the line is essentially genderless, aided by the loose-fitting outerwear and oversized jackets.

The collection is available through Opening Ceremony and ranges in price from $ 30 USD to $ 475 USD.

In related news, Opening Ceremony released its follow-up “Torch” collection last week.

Read more at HYPEBEASTClick here to view full gallery at HYPEBEAST




HYPEBEAST

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How to Style Tassel Earrings, According to an Expert

2017 has been a strong year for statement earrings, and with its most festive weeks still ahead, we’re looking forward to pairing them with every outfit we leave the house in—and maybe some we don’t (you know, for selfie purposes). Top of our list right now is tassel earrings, which manage to look both classic and thoroughly of-the-moment and offer an easy way to incorporate a little color into your look, even if your wardrobe skews toward all-black.

Designer Hart Hagerty has been creating tassel earrings since 2013 when she returned to her native Charleston, South Carolina, after five years of living in Shanghai (she still works with artisans in the city to produce her line). So it’s safe to say she knows a thing or two about how to style the eye-catching earrings in ways that feel fresh and unexpected. To wit: “The beauty of my tassel earrings lies in their simplicity and versatility,” she says. “They go with pretty much any outfit from bohemian-chic to classic-cool.”

Hagerty’s tassels range from OTT double-layered tufts to elegant silky fringe. “I love playing up contrast. I’ll wear the sparkly new holiday earrings with a vintage band T-shirt (the more beat-up, the better),” she says. “The more subdued silky topknots are chic, understated, and cool, especially when paired with timeless classics like cashmere sweaters and slip dresses. They make just enough of a statement for the cool girl’s look. They’re never trying too hard.”

Here are four outfits Hagerty is styling with tassel earrings this season:

Shop our tassel earring picks below.

A cool multicolored metallic for nights when you need something special.
Hoop + tassel = statement earring gold.
Fuchsia is hard to resist.
We love the rose-gold hardware on this delicate pair.
Lizzie Fortunato’s pieces always have a worldly vibe.
The only jewelry you’ll need.
Wear these with your fanciest dress or your favorite gray sweatshirt.
Each pair includes more than 1000 beads.
Easy and elegant.
Party pineapples.
Two tassels are better than one.
Feathers are a fun take on the trend.
No one does vintage glam quite like Rachel Zoe.
Just add jewel tones.
Pack these on your next tropical vacation.
Some shoulder dusters for your holiday parties.
These will make green and blue eyes pop.
Mixed-material magic. Up next: The fresh way to wear all your winter dresses.

Celebrity Style and Fashion Trend Coverage | http://www.whowhatwear.com

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The Study was Flawed: Why Women Should Rethink Hormone Therapy

A friend of mine was telling me recently about her menopausal symptoms. The hot flashes were getting to her, and the mood swings were no fun either. I asked her if she had considered hormone therapy (HT), and she gave me this look—you know, the kind that seems to say, What are you, nuts?

Most women avoid HT these days for one reason: they’ve been lead to believe that it’s dangerous. “It causes breast cancer,” they think. “I’d rather put up with hot flashes than increase my risk of breast cancer.”

It remains the most effective method for treating the symptoms of menopause, and according to recent studies, is not as risky as women may have been lead to believe. In fact, we’ve learned so much that scientists are now questioning the interpretation of that 2002 study, and suggesting that women rethink HT.

Why are women so afraid of HT? Because of one study published in 2002. It was called the “Women’s Health Initiative,” and it showed that HT increased risk of several health problems for women, including heart attack, stroke, blood clots, breast cancer, and colorectal cancer.

The media came alive when the results were released, and women all over the country panicked. Many stopped taking their prescriptions for fear of harm, and many more avoided HT from that point on.

Now here we are, 15 years later, and new information has come to light suggesting that women don’t need to be as frightened of HT as they are. It remains the most effective method for treating the symptoms of menopause, and according to recent studies, is not as risky as women may have been lead to believe. In fact, we’ve learned so much that scientists are now questioning the interpretation of that 2002 study, and suggesting that women rethink HT.

Might it be the best option for you?

Hormone Replacement Therapy Took Off in the 1960s

Hormone replacement therapy has been around for decades. Back in the 1960s, the FDA approved the use of prescription estrogen products to treat the symptoms of menopause. About the same time, a few books came out that talked about the many benefits of estrogen for women, and HT took off.

Since then, the popularity of hormone therapy has gone up and down several times. In the 1970s, prescriptions declined as women heard about studies linking HT to an increased risk of endometrial cancer. When manufacturers added uterine-protecting progestin to the mix, prescriptions increased again.

In the 1980s, studies came out showing that HT seemed to reduce risk of fractures related to post-menopausal osteoporosis, and reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease. In the 1990s, more studies were released showing that HT reduced risk of heart disease and hip fracture, though it slightly increased risk of breast cancer. The general conclusion was that the benefits outweighed the risks, and the popularity of HT rose again, so much that estrogen became the biggest-selling prescription drug.

Then came 2002, and a landmark study that changed everything.

Study Rocks the Women’s Health Industry

It was called the “Women’s Health Initiative (WHI),” and it involved 16,000 postmenopausal women. Researchers wanted to examine the risks and benefits of HT, specifically, the synthetic drug “Prempro,” which combined synthetic progestin with three estrogens derived from horse urine. So they gave some women Prempro, and some women a placebo.

The trial was supposed to go for 8.5 years. Instead, after only 5.2 years of follow-up, the data and safety monitoring board recommended stopping the trial because those women taking Prempro had a higher risk of breast cancer and heart disease than those taking a placebo.

The scientists put it this way: Out of 10,000 women, over a period of one year,

  • 8 more taking Prempro than placebo would develop breast cancer,
  • 7 more would have a heart attack,
  • 8 more would suffer a stroke, and
  • 18 more would develop blood clots.

Though these are actually small increased risks for women overall, the headlines were frightening: HT increases risk of breast cancer and heart disease. Prescriptions dropped dramatically.

Now, fifteen years later, the question is: Did we overreact?

Researchers Re-Evaluate the Results of WHI

Many researchers say that we did, and that the hype around these studies actually harmed women.

The reality is that today, many women suffer from difficult menopausal symptoms when they don’t really need to. According to a recent 2017 study, HT is still the most effective therapy for truly debilitating symptoms like hot flashes, but women remain concerned about using it.

“This study tells us that there remains an unmet need to educate women about the safety and effectiveness of hormone therapy for most symptomatic women,” said Dr. Joann Pinkerton, executive director of the North American Menopause Society (NAMS). “The benefits go beyond the relief of hot flashes and include improvement in night sweats, sleep disruption, prevention of bone loss, and fewer heart events.”

“This study tells us that there remains an unmet need to educate women about the safety and effectiveness of hormone therapy for most symptomatic women. The benefits go beyond the relief of hot flashes and include improvement in night sweats, sleep disruption, prevention of bone loss, and fewer heart events.”

–Dr. Joann Pinkerton, executive director of the North American Menopause Society (NAMS)

Safety and effectiveness? What happened to risk of breast cancer and heart disease?

Scientific examination has cast new light on those studies that appeared near the turn of the century. In a 2014 study meant to re-examine the findings from WHI, the researchers stated that the “global index” used to summarize the overall benefit versus risk of HT “was not valid, and it was biased.”

They added that the risk of CHD was not confirmed in subsequent studies, and that the WIH study “did not establish” that estrogen plus progestin increased the risk of breast cancer. Among their findings: the primary outcomes—cardiovascular disease (CVD) and breast cancer—changed several times throughout the study, rising and falling. That implies that the authors manipulated data to come up with the conclusions that they did.

There were other issues as well, including participants that didn’t stick with their treatments, and low “hazard ratios” that are not usually considered significant. (The hazard ratio for risk of breast cancer was 1.24, for example—below the standard 2.0 that is considered significant.)

“Over-interpretation and misrepresentation of the WHI findings have damaged the health and well-being of menopausal women,” the researchers wrote, “by convincing them and their health professionals that the risk of HT outweigh its benefits.”’

Molly A. Brewer, DVM, MD, MS, and Professor and Chair of the Department of Obstetrics and Gynecology at the University of Connecticut Health Center, also points out the flaws in the study, including the fact that 34 percent of the women had a body mass index of 30 or more—a clear indicator of obesity, which is a risk factor for breast cancer. In addition, the average age of the women was 63 years, which is considered on the older side of the spectrum, as most women need HT in their fifties.

Yet these sorts of risk factors were not taken into consideration in the final results.

Brewer states in her commentary on the study that despite its wide impact, it “may not have demonstrated an increase in the risk of either CVD or breast cancer given the study design and statistical issues, and that as a result of these flaws, women have been harmed.”

More Researchers Question the Harm Done to Menopausal Women

In April 2017, in an article published in the scientific journal Climacteric, the principal investigator in the WHI trial—Robert D. Langer—argued that the researchers who did the study misrepresented some of the findings, and failed to follow proper protocols. Apparently not all principal investigators had a say in the data evaluation and writing phases of the research, and the paper was published prior to review by all authors.

He added that a second WHI trial using equine estrogens alone published two years after the initial trial results showed prevention of CHD in women who started HT before the age of 60, and also showed a reduction in breast cancer overall, but that these results “were largely ignored.”

“In the years since the first WHI report,” he wrote, “we have learned much about the characteristics of women who are likely to benefit from HT,” adding that the “facts” most women and doctors use when considering HT “are frequently wrong or incorrectly applied.”

The editor-in-chief of the Climacteric agreed, stating that when the 2002 study was released, women were told that those using HT were “29% more likely to suffer coronary heart disease, 26% more likely to contract breast cancer and 41% more likely to suffer a stroke.” The actual numbers, which are listed above (7 more cases of heart disease out of 10,000, etc.) were “lost in translation.”

In conclusion, he stated: “Much angst may have been avoided, many women may not have suffered unnecessarily and the consensus now reached—that hormone therapy prescribed to healthy postmenopausal women within 10 years of their last menstrual period is an effective safe intervention—might have been arrived at long ago.”

Indeed, in a 2016 commentary published in The New England Journal of Medicine (NEJM), two investigators key to the original WHI study stated that the results were being used inappropriately, particularly for women suffering from difficult menopausal symptoms.

What is the true toll of all this misinformation? According to a 2013, it’s high. Researchers examined the effect of “estrogen avoidance” on mortality rates among women aged 50 to 59 years who had undergone a hysterectomy. They found that over a 10-year span, as many as 91,610 postmenopausal women died prematurely because they avoided estrogen therapy (ET).

“ET in younger postmenopausal women is associated with a decisive reduction in all-cause mortality,” the researchers wrote, “but estrogen use in this population is low and continuing to fall.”

What Should Menopausal Women Do?

Based on this and other information suggesting that women were unnecessarily frightened, what should women do today?

First, realize the facts—the risks of HT are likely lower than you’ve been lead to believe. Second, understand that most healthcare professionals and scientists now recommend that hormone therapy prescribed to healthy postmenopausal women within 10 years of their last menstrual period is effective and safe, with benefits that outweigh the risks.

Third, talk to your doctor. If you’re suffering from difficult menopausal symptoms—particularly if you’re healthy, free of cardiovascular disease, and 60 or younger—HT may work for you, and help you get back to enjoying life again.

 

Sources

“A Brief History of Hormone Replacement Therapy,” Forever Health, August 9, 2013, https://www.foreverhealth.com/blogs/forever-health/69756997-a-brief-history-of-hormone-replacement-therapy.

“The Rise and Fall of Hormone Replacement Therapy,” The University of Minnesota, October 15, 2012, http://www.epi.umn.edu/cvdepi/essay/the-rise-and-fall-of-hormone-replacement-therapy/.

Grady D., et al., “Heart and Estrogen/progestin Replacement Study (HERS): design, methods, and baseline characteristics,” Control Clin Trials, August 1998; 19(4):313-35, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9683309.

John A. Blakeley, “The Heart and Estrogen/Progestin Replacement Study Revisited: Hormone Replacement Therapy Produced Net Harm, Consistent with Observational Data,” Arch Intern Med., 2000; 160(19):2897-2900, https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamainternalmedicine/fullarticle/485489.

“Women’s Health Initiative,” NHLBI, https://www.nhlbi.nih.gov/whi/background.htm.

Rossouw JE, et al., “Risks and benefits of estrogen plus progestin in healthy postmenopausal women: principal results from the Women’s Health Initiative randomized controlled trial,” JAMA, July 17, 2002; 288(3):321-33, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12117397.

Molly A. Brewer, “Hormone Replacement Therapy Controversies: Have We Harmed Women?” ACH Media, January 1, 2016, https://www.ahcmedia.com/articles/136911-hormone-replacement-therapy-controversies-have-we-harmed-women.

“The North American Menopause Society (NAMS), “Despite effectiveness women remain skeptical of hormones at menopause—what’s the problem? New study confirms postmenopausal women more likely to use alternatives other than hormone therapy,” ScienceDaily, October 11, 2017, https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2017/10/171011091809.htm.

Shapiro S., et al., “Risks and benefits of hormone therapy: has medical dogma now been overturned?” Climacteric, June 2014; 17(3):215-22, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24654673.

Langer RD, “The evidence base for HRT: what can we believe?” Climacteric, April 2017; 20(2):91-96, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28281363.

Rod Baber, “What is scientific truth?” Climacteric, March 10, 2017; 20(2):83-84, http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/13697137.2017.1295220?src=recsys.

Manson JE, Kaunitz AM, “Menopause Management—Getting Clinical Care Back on Track,” N Engl J Med., March 3, 2016; 374(9):803-6, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26962899?dopt=Abstract.

Laren Vogel, “Landmark trial overstated HRT risk for younger women,” CMAJ News, April 12, 2017, http://cmajnews.com/2017/04/12/landmark-trial-overstated-hrt-risk-for-younger-women-109-5421/.

Sarrel PM, et al., “The mortality toll of estrogen avoidance: an analysis of excess deaths among hysterectomized women aged 50 to 59 years,” Am J Public Health, September 2013; 103(9):1583-8, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23865654.

 

The post The Study was Flawed: Why Women Should Rethink Hormone Therapy appeared first on Women's Health.

Women’s Health

BEST DEAL UPDATE:

Another Option for Suits on a Budget: JomersIt’s hard to…

Another Option for Suits on a Budget: Jomers

It’s hard
to overstate what a wasteland the entry level suit market was a decade
ago. When I was coming out of college (more than a decade ago!), nearly
every guy I knew was going to Joseph A. Bank or Brooks Brothers (if they
had a little more scratch) for their “interview suit.” I wanted a nicer
suit myself, but I was working as a bartender and felt $ 250 was a
stretch, let alone $ 500–I ended up with a boxy 3-button number from
Joey Banks (on sale!). Not much has changed. A few years back, Derek wrote a great guide to first suit choices at any price level–there were only two options at $ 500 or less.

So
I was glad to read about Jomers suits, which intend to offer higher
quality and more modern styling at a consistent price of $ 250, about the
same price as the current model of my old Joseph A. Bank suit. (Jomers
also makes trousers, shirts, and polos, all in a modern, trim, generally
Italian style.
) Jomers sent me two suits to review and try on, and I talked over email with Jomers’ CEO Meyer Dagmy. So what
can you get for $ 250 these days?

The Nicest Suit You’re Likely to Find for the Price

The Jomers suits I received were
both in 100% wool, Italian fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico, one in
a lighter blue and one in navy with a little tonal variation (you can
see my natural light photos of both above–closeups of the jacket are
the darker blue). The fabrics are certainly nicer than what you’d find
in a mall–more depth to the color, more interesting weave, and they
hang well. They seem about in line with SuitSupply, which is our usual
recommendation for suits <$ 500 and the line you most often see Jomers compared against.

The
construction and quality is solid for the price. They’re half
canvassed, which is a measure of quality you may not appreciate until
you’ve worn the suit a decent amount (for what it’s worth, my 2000s
Joseph A Bank suit eventually got the dreaded bubbling in the chest and
lapel as the fusing fell apart–suits that are half canvassed have a
better reputation). The suits are mostly machine made (not a criticism–you won’t find a lot of handwork in off-the-rack suits under $ 1000). Meyer told me that there is some hand stitching in the shoulder, as well.

The Jomers suit wasn’t stiff out the box and the
lapels and body were shaped well–without a long-term test it
would be hard to know how it would break in. I did see a few loose
stitches here and there, but nothing structural. I’ve seen some complaints online that the suits arrive wrinkled, but that seems like a ridiculous thing to complain about. You should expect to get any off-the-rack suit altered, and your tailor can steam or press the suit. 

Cut and Styling

Jomers
cuts a modern suit in a style that should suit most young-ish guys who want a slim suit for work or formal-but-not-too-formal occasions. The suits are two-button, single breasted, with flap hip
pockets and double vents. The lapels are a moderate width and the gorge
is on the higher side. They have a barchetta-shaped breast
pocket (not as exaggerated as I’ve seen on some Italian jackets).
Trousers are a standard drop six (e.g. a size 40R jacket comes with 34
waist pants), flat front, trim, and tapered. They have a split waistband
in the rear, which in my experience helps the waist give a little with
movement.

Jomers’ model is pretty much exactly what you’re looking for in a first suit. A
current-looking suit that doesn’t take a lot of chances. If the only
suit in your closet has a ticket pocket, contrast stitching, and a peak
lapel, you overdid it. Jomers suits are restrained in that
aspect–although they do offer a more casual model with patch hip
pockets. The horn buttons complement the fabrics and the lining is
industry standard Bemberg (pants are lined as well).

Jomers
suits feature pick stitching (a decorative line of edge stitching in
places like the lapel and pocket flaps), a detail that in the past was
seen on higher-priced suits that you see more often these
days–sticklers for conservative dress might find it overly decorative.

image


Fit and Sizing

Jomers
aims to make a trim suit (one of the things that differentiates them
from the low-armhole, lowest-common-denominator budget suits out there)
and they aren’t kidding. I found the suits I handled to be a bit tighter
all around than any of my other off-the-rack jackets, save maybe Italian brand Boglioli. Without alterations, the shoulders were
trim but OK (see photo); the chest fit quite close and the waist button
pulled.

The armholes are high, but not constricting.

(For what it’s worth, I measured these Jomers size 42 jackets as about 22 inches across the chest, or 44 all around. This measurement can’t capture the shape of a jacket but it’s a decent shorthand for slim vs looser fits. I don’t wear particularly slim suits and most of my jackets are in the range of  45-46 around the chest.) 

A competent alterations tailor can tweak some of the fit of a jacket (which anyone buying a new off-the-rack suit should account for, in time and money). Take care, however, that a new suit fits how you like in the shoulders and chest, which are a challenge if not impossible to alter significantly. 

I’ve tried SuitSupply’s Napoli and Sienna models in 42 as well, and I found Jomers’ suits to be slightly tighter in the chest and waist. Meyer told me that some customers have said Jomers suits aren’t as trim as they’d like–based on the suits I tried that surprises me.

Currently, the suits are offered only as a jacket with the accompanying drop-six trousers. Jomers plans to offer separates in the future to allow customers to order trousers in a different size, and may do so in their next run (slated for January 2018).

The trousers fit me rather well. I
wouldn’t alter a thing except have the hems finished. I found the rise on the trousers to be neither very high nor very low.

Buying Jomers Suits

One
thing Joe Banks and Brooks have going for them is they’re in every
decently sized city. Walk in and you can try stuff on, and
even line up alterations. Jomers is able to offer their suits at such a
low price at least in part because they don’t have to pay for retail
spaces and sales associates all over the place. The upside for customers
is obvious–you can get a suit that might otherwise be out of your price
range. The trade off is that you have to order online without trying
on, and in Jomers’ case the supply and demand are such that you pretty
much have to order as soon as wares become available (stuff sells out quickly). Meyer told me they intend to double the number of units available in the next batch, which had 200-250 suits available in each fabric.

Jomers offers free shipping, and has a 14-day full-refund return policy (buyer pays return shipping). So the only real risk in ordering is that the suit you want may not be available when your return is complete. If I were ordering a Jomers suit today, I would likely order my usual size and one size up, then return the size that didn’t fit as well, and factor the return shipping cost into the cost of my suit.

We generally recommend you save to buy what you really want, and recommend a lot of tailoring that requires some investment. But many guys just aren’t ready to buy a $ 500+ suit. Jomers solidly fills a niche for people who want better fabric and non-stodgy styling at a price that doesn’t assume you already have a six-figure salary.

Put This On

FASHION UPDATE:

19 Long Cardigans to Layer Under Your Coat This Winter

Sweater season calls for options: chunky cable-knit crewnecks, wooly turtlenecks, fleece popovers, and one of our current favorites of the moment, long cardigans. The substantial style is a little like a coat you can wear inside—and outside, too, if you happen to live in L.A.

Duster-length versions add a bit of drama to an everyday T-shirt-and-jeans outfit, while thigh-length cardis make even lightweight dresses seasonally appropriate. Snuggle up in a cozy neutral-hued style by Zara or Kenzo, or add a bit of welcome color to your wardrobe with Iro’s ice-blue knit or Marni’s fun stripes. Either way, you’ll thank yourself once winter officially rolls around.

Below, shop 19 long cardigans we wish we were wearing right now.

This is the ideal shade of taupe.
A new take on stripes.
Sustainably and ethically made, plus it’s weighty enough to feel like outerwear.
Keep this on your chair at work for chilly offices.
Brighten up a dreary day with bubblegum pink.
Betcha you don’t have a cardigan with purple faux-fur cuffs yet.
Everything about this cardi looks luxurious.
The zippered front adds a touch of sportiness.
Don’t you want to wrap yourself in this perfectly draped sweater?
Who knew a beige cardigan could look so badass?
Yep, it’s a hoodie too.
The coziest cashmere.
Not-so-simple stripes.
The contrast trim elevates this easy sweater.
The texture on this one is incredible.
A classic style to throw on for some quick errands.
With the cool lapels, this practically counts as a jacket, right?
We always love a ribbed sweater.
This duster style comes with an optional belt. Next, shop the 2018 trend you may not have seen coming.

Celebrity Style and Fashion Trend Coverage | http://www.whowhatwear.com

BEST DISCOUNT UPDATE:

Up to 50% Off Original Price @ BCBGeneration.com!

The Eco-Friendly Tights Whitney Can’t Wait To Try

Tights are generally a total scam, in my opinion. This is for three reasons. First, they promise to keep me warm but inevitably fail to follow through because there is NO WAY that a paper-thin bit of fabric is going to cut it mid-winter. Second, because they snag so easily that I basically have to …

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Fashionista

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The History of Bespoke Tailoring: Now and Then

The majority of today’s men wear ready-to-wear or made-to-measure clothes produced in factories. Only a very small minority of gentleman dress in bespoke clothes made by tailors, but 200 years ago every garment was made by hand. This article explains how clothes handmade by tailors have evolved from being an everyday product available in various price and quality categories to something exclusive and expensive.

Menswear Illustration c 1840

Menswear Illustration c. 1840, an era in which every garment was handmade

A Brief History of Bespoke Tailoring

Before the advent of sewing machines in the 18th century, all clothes were cut and sewn by hand similar to the way modern-day bespoke tailors work. However, the desired fit was achieved in a way very different to our times. From the middle ages to the 18th-century, tailors created their patterns with methods that were their trade secret. They were not shared with apprentices until a master tailor handed over his business to someone who had bought it. Many more fittings than today were necessary. Nevertheless, the quality of the handwork was amazing and the fit often very close to the body.

Victorian era tailoring shop

19th century London must have been like one big tailor shop serving gentlemen from the whole Empire. The West End was crowded with bespoke tailors, shirtmakers and cloth merchants, huge numbers of coat makers, pant makers, vest makers and finishers worked directly from their poor and overcrowded homes in the east end. London was the capital of the first world at the time, and English style and British cloth were internationally considered to be the height of elegance. Even so, tailors prospered across in the world, and their products were available in almost every price bracket, as every man, woman, and child needed clothing. For the mass market, ready-to-wear clothes were not yet available in great numbers, and the poorest citizens often depended on the secondhand sale of worn clothing or clothing that was made at home. Department stores catered to the middle classes. Rich men’s valets often received worn clothes from their employers as a gift or an incentive, some of which was then sold for extra income. In the countryside and the living quarters of the working class, tailors made clothes by hand at affordable prices using cheap cloth, and even then purchasing clothes was relatively expensive compared to the average income of a poor person. Very often these tailors got their main income from making clothes for bigger tailoring houses that had outsourced some of the work to external tailors. 

Sewing machine 1849

Sewing machine

Cutting Systems, Sewing Machines and the Birth of Ready-To-Wear Clothes

In the 18th century, tailors started to think about ways to reduce the number of fittings and so they started to create cutting systems. These systems, in combination with the invention of the sewing machine in 1790, changed the process of garment construction forever. By 1830, the first machine-based clothing manufacturer opened in France to supply uniforms to the French army, and civilian clothing manufacturers were soon to follow.

Factory garment production

Factory garment production

Ready-to-wear clothes were made in great numbers because military and civil uniforms likewise had to be made at low cost in huge numbers. The ready-to-wear industry applied their knowledge of making uniforms in different sizes to civilian clothes and managed to achieve a very good quality and fit in the late 19th century. Bespoke tailoring was still the first choice for anyone who could afford it and also for some who wanted it but couldn’t afford it. The appeal of bespoke tailoring remained the same: each garment was unique in terms of style and fit to its owner. 

Savile Row Tailor Henry Poole c 1944

Savile Row Tailor Henry Poole c 1944

Fusing Changed the Industry Forever

A fundamental difference between factory-made garments and the handmade bespoke product emerged when fusing became standard in the ready-to-wear industry in the 1960s. Fusing is a method that joins the interlining with the outer fabric using an adhesive. This adhesive is applied to the interlining. When heat and pressure are applied the adhesive melts and bonds the interlining to the outer fabric. Heat and pressure may come from an iron if you or from a machine. The latter is used by the industry. Fusing saved a lot of time and thus became standard procedure, though it initially resulted in a much stiffer garment. An interlining that is not fused is often termed “free-floating” because it is sewn to the outer fabric at the shoulder seam and with small stitches behind the lapels, which maintained a soft look and feel to the final garment.

fusable interlining

Fusable interlining

 

Since the 1960s, bespoke tailors have used the term “fusing” in a condescending way to describe the difference between ready-to-wear and bespoke tailoring. The quality of fusing has improved dramatically and nowadays even fused lightweight suits are not necessarily stiff. In fact, fusing may sometimes create a suit that is softer and lighter than the suits that some tailors still produce using fairly heavy interlinings. Prejudice aside, the bespoke suit with handsewn interlinings can be shaped more precisely to the figure and the lapels will have the typical roll of the tailored suit.

Windowpane Tweed Suit with cuffs

A unique bespoke windowpane tweed suit with cuffs

Bespoke Tailoring Today

In the modern day, the craft of making clothes by hand appears to be a folly in the sense that the quality of RTW clothes and the availability of made-to-measure garments in all price levels seem to make the traditional tailor superfluous. Bespoke tailoring declined rapidly in volume with the rise of factory-made clothing, but a small coterie of high-end tailors were able to maintain their operations as the last stewards of the craft. Beginning in the 1970s, what remained of bespoke tailoring further declined as tastes in clothing became increasingly casual, lower prices increased the accessibility of clothing, and styles turned away from using traditional fabrics. In the 1980s it seemed that this craft wouldn’t survive, but today the situation is different. It seems that more and more young men are interested in handmade clothes and some even want to learn the trade. Today, dressing in a classic way has found a new audience among men who want to look good while investing in a wardrobe that will stand the test of time. For those men, owning a bespoke tailored garment is still a wardrobe goal.

The Different Schools of Tailoring

Although tailors tend to stress that the tradition of their own country is very unique they do in fact work in a similar way no matter if they work in London, Vienna, Milan or New York City. The basic process of cutting and making garments by hand hasn’t changed much since the beginning of the 20th century. A few machines have been added to the workrooms but it still takes around 60 hours to make a suit.

Prince Charles is dignified in his bowler hat - Remembrance Sunday service London 2011

Prince Charles is a highly visible consumer of English tailoring

London Tailoring vs. “La Sartoria Italiana”

From the 18th century until the 1920s, English tailoring was considered to be top quality, just as French fashion led in the world of women’s wear. Nevertheless, tailoring was a very local business with craftsmen offering their particular skills in each country. Every capital of the western world was home to hundreds of tailors and dozens of firms that offered premium quality. After the second World War, the slow demise of tailoring led to a concentration of men’s tailoring in London and Italy. You could still find good bespoke tailors in any European capital and most American cities but with regards to style, the world of menswear became a matter of choosing between English or Italian provenance.

Inside Gieves & Hawkes

Inside Gieves & Hawkes, English Savile Row tailors

The differences that we see between a suit from London and from Naples are rather the result of different approaches about how a man looks best than the result of different methods. A very popular explanation says that London tailoring is influenced by military tailoring, which results in a more waisted silhouette and pronounced shoulders. Tailors in Italy, on the other hand, are credited with soft tailoring and more flattering shapes. Both assumptions are not correct because London tailors always offered very diverse silhouettes and Italy is home to very different styles too.

 

Neapolitan Tailoring

Neapolitan Tailoring

The biggest difference between London tailoring and Italian tailoring, in general, is that a British tailor will usually want to create a suit that gives the wearer the appearance of a gentleman from the British upper classes. An Italian tailor strives for an attractive appearance that is not based on a class association; it is more about appearances for appearance’s sake. The Italian male is typically very conscious of his looks; he doesn’t want to look like an Earl, he wants to look like an attractive man.

Crowd at Pitti Uomo 82

An Italian look

Thus, Italian tailors focus on creating a cut that flatters the figure with a pronounced waist, a rather short jacket and narrow trousers creating the impression of a slim figure with long legs. Speaking of Italian tailoring in general terms is nevertheless difficult because almost every region offers a slightly different silhouette.

Grinze on the sleevehead - distinctly Italian by Manolo.se

Grinze on the sleevehead – distinctly Italian

Tailors in the North usually cut a jacket with squarer shoulders, similar to tailors in Rome. Tailors from Southern Italy prefer a natural shoulder with a set-in sleeve similar to the sleeve of a shirt. In general, Italian tailors tend to make a very soft garment with a lot of attention to handwork. Italian customers appreciate good tailoring more than any other nationality on the whole.

Austrian and German Tailoring

Observers from English speaking countries tend to assume that the tailoring traditions of Germany and Austria are similar, which is not the case at all. Despite sharing the same language Germany and Austria are two separate and different nations since the dissolution of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806. The Austro-Hungarian Empire was a twin monarchy consisting of Austria and Hungary. Both kingdoms were home to several nationalities. Tailoring in Vienna was strongly influenced by Czech and Hungarian tailors and by tailors from Triest, while Berlin had developed into the center of German tailoring since the foundation of the Empire in 1871.

Viennese Suit Styles

Viennese Suit Styles of the 1930’s

Tailors from England, France, and Italy love to refer to the 1930s as the golden age of men’s tailoring, which is not possible in Germany. When Hitler seized power after he was elected Chancellor in 1933 the Nazis wanted to drive out foreign influences from public culture, but they didn’t really succeed. Until the start of the war in 1939, products from all around the world were still popular in Germany and tailors still used a lot of fabrics from England. Despite many Germans being Anglophiles, Great Britain was seen as the major rival and enemy in Europe since the end of WW1 so dressing the English way was not all that popular. The cut of the suits from the 1930s was similar to those made by tailors in most European countries. The lounge suit had become very popular while older gentleman still liked to wear frock coats for formal occasions.

Marlene Dietrich in a Knize Lounge Suit

Marlene Dietrich in a Knize Lounge Suit

Viennese tailoring was very popular with the rich and famous in the 1930s. German movie stars like to be dressed by Knize in Vienna, the most famous and expensive tailoring house at the time. Marlene Dietrich used to have her famous tailcoats, lounge suits and overcoats made by Knize too. When the Jewish owner fled Austria and reopened in New York City, Dietrich was eager to support him and encouraged friends to follow suit. Austrian society had changed on the outside after the abolition of Monarchy in 1918, the court and his rules of dresses no longer dictated menswear. Fashion became more egalitarian but men from the upper and middle classes still dressed elegantly in lounge suits during daytime and dinner suits in the evening. Morning coats were worn for formal occasions during the day and evening tails for dances and dinners.

Netousek Besopke Tailor Vienna

Netousek Bespoke Tailor Vienna

Austrian tailors still like to hint at the traditions of their Monarchy although it has not existed for nearly 100 years. In fact, it is difficult to spot the differences between suits made in Austria or Germany because of the dominating Italian influence and the fact that most tailors of both countries use a German cutting system taught by M. Müller & Son in Munich. Only very few tailors from Vienna still keep up a tradition that includes a very rounded, natural shoulder with minimal padding. They will tailor very softly in general with a slightly lower notch and lapels that are narrower than those from southern Italy. Still, these differences will only be perceived by an experienced observer and only a very small number of gentlemen will appreciate the traditional Viennese look and make.

American Tailoring

Various Ivy Leaguers

Various Ivy Leaguers in their trademark style

America has been a world of its own with a huge independent textile and fashion sector until manufacturers started using factories in South America and Asia to cut costs. Tailors were inspired by Savile Row or made suits the Italian way that they had learned at home or from their Italian born fathers or grandfathers. The most famous All American tailoring school is the Ivy League Style which was created and cultivated by of a huge number of tailors at the East Coast. These tailors have mostly gone out of business.

Bespoke Tailoring Today: From Trendy to Timeless

Bernhard Roetzel in a tweed suit signing his book

The author Bernhard Roetzel in a tweed suit signing his book

Though the industry of bespoke tailoring has declined to a mere fraction of what it used to be, the remaining tailors are the keepers of a venerated craft. In a world in which so few things are truly unique, bespoke tailoring offers the dapper man a chance to own not only something that fits him perfectly but also something that is exclusive unto his wardrobe alone. It’s a way to reproduce the elegant styles and patterns of the past which are impractical for mass manufacturers to use.

Green Windopane suit with madders silk tie, yellow pocket square and light blue shirt

A green windowpane suit with madder silk tie, yellow pocket square, and light blue shirt under a unique bespoke overcoat

Today tailors stress that their clothes are timeless. In the early 20th century, tailors insisted that they made the most fashionable garments, which was indeed true. Only when the ready-to-wear industry took over trend-driven clothing did tailors begin to emphasize that their clothes were classic and long-lasting. They simply cannot compete with the designers of the menswear industry, but the menswear industry is likewise incapable of competing with the superior fit and construction of the work of a bespoke tailor.

Sven Raphael Schneider in Three Piece Suit with double breasted waistcoat

Sven Raphael Schneider in Three Piece Suit with double breasted waistcoat

Because of the cost associated with a bespoke garment, tailoring is only accessible to those willing to travel to a tailor or to a few online tailors that create true paper patterns from scratch. Today, tailoring has been changed by the internet, a thriving market for fast fashion, and the desire of many men to own quantity over quality. The question still lingers: will the bespoke industry survive? The industry is comprised mostly of aging tailors on the verge of retirement, but new tailors are taking up the trade and opening bespoke ateliers, though mostly in Europe. Not only that, but the increasing interest in quality, handcrafted goods is bringing new attention and appeal to a heritage industry. 

Conclusion

Bespoke tailoring is all about individually made clothes. Nevertheless, tailors are strongly influenced by traditions, history and general fashion. And despite the seemingly endless possibilities of style and fabric most men order very conventional clothes from their tailors. Studying the history of tailoring and analyzing the style of the different tailoring schools helps you to find out what is right for yourself. Stay tuned for an upcoming article on Bespoke Tailoring Basics, a guide to bespoke tailoring for beginners.


Gentleman’s Gazette

MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!

All the Style Lessons Kate Bosworth Has Taught Us

Some celebs switch up their style in major ways from one season to the next. We appreciate that adventurous spirit, of course, but often, one of the signs of a curated wardrobe is consistency. And when your outfits are as routinely chic as Kate Bosworth’s, well, it garners some attention. Okay, a lot of attention.

Bosworth never strays too far from her sleek aesthetic. She favors unique silhouettes over elaborate embellishments, and she usually keeps her accessories a bit more pared back to let her statement pieces shine. The results are balanced and modern, and they never make it feel like she’s trying too hard. Perhaps that’s why we find ourselves wondering how to re-create these ensembles for ourselves time and again.

Ahead we’ve broken down some of the tips culled from her most impressive recent looks.

On Kate Bosworth: Rachel Zoe Donna Top ($ 245) and Theo Wide Leg Trouser ($ 495); Roger Vivier Viv Leather Slides ($ 1250); MCM bag; Jacques Marie Mage sunglasses. Style Notes: Not every pulled-together outfit needs to be accented with a pair of heels. These jeweled slides make for a cool alternative, especially against this more classic, all-neutrals ensemble.
On Kate Bosworth: Ellery Lady Chatterly Bubble Sleeve Top ($ 1895); Roger Vivier Satin Mules ($ 1750) and clutch. Styles Notes: When the pièce de résistance is as impressive as this top, just keep the rest of the look clean and simple.
On Kate Bosworth: Calvin Klein T-shirt. Style Notes: Will jeans and a tee—especially a Calvin Klein one—ever be a bad idea? No. The answer is always no.
On Kate Bosworth: Brock Collection Darby Cap Sleeve Dress ($ 2900); Edie Parker Lily Basket Tote ($ 995); Tabitha Simmons Black Velvet Hermione Flats ($ 695). Style Notes: A cap-sleeve dress and basket bag are certainly sweet, but the pointed black flats ground this look more than, say, coordinating pink heels.
On Kate Bosworth: Totême shirt; Citizens of Humanity Hailey Pleater Trouser Jeans ($ 208); By Far Romy Pump ($ 286); Rochas bag; Jacques Marie Mage sunglasses. Style Notes: A little strategic tucking will help your oversize-meets-oversize look from swallowing your frame whole.
On Kate Bosworth: Ulla Johnson Jane Wrap Dress ($ 325); Tod’s Leather Ankle Boots ($ 1155); Rochas bag; Céline sunglasses. Style Notes: It’s a fact: Sturdy boots and day dresses are an excellent, no-brainer combination.
On Kate Bosworth: Brock Collection Demi Midi Dress ($ 2890); Rebecca de Ravenel M’O Classic Twilight Earrings ($ 695). Style Notes: Sparkly jewelry is never a bad choice for evening wear, but a bold geometric style does feel a bit more modern and unexpected. Up next: Take style notes from the other great Kate: Kate Moss.

Celebrity Style and Fashion Trend Coverage | http://www.whowhatwear.com

BEST DISCOUNT UPDATE:

Up to 50% Off Original Price @ BCBGeneration.com!

Plus-size retailer goes bankrupt after expanding too fast

Plus-size retailer Fashion to Figure has succumbed to bankruptcy, The Post has learned. After disclosing plans to shrink its chain after it fell behind on rent payments and other bills, as reported by The Post last month, the struggling mall-based retailer filed for Chapter 11 on Monday in Newark, NJ. “We rolled out mall stores…
Fashion | New York Post

SHOE DEAL UPDATE:

Lands’ End: 50% off 1 reg. priced item

L.E. 50% off  1 reg. priced item w/ LEAVES & 8813

And here we are again. Seemed like for a while there LE had really cut back on codes and promos. That doesn’t seem to be the case anymore. With Black Friday and Cyber Monday just around the corner, LE is none the less running a promo that’s just about as good as it gets for them. No, you can’t use it on sale items. And no, you can’t use it on more than one item. But there’s plenty of terrific fall-appropriate stuff kicking about, plus some great looking/masculine home goods that would make great gifts. Off we go with some picks. Code LEAVES & pin 8813 runs through tomorrow, 11/15.

 

Straight Fit 5 Pocket Stretch Moleskin Pants – $ 34.97 ($ 69.95)

Straight Fit 5 Pocket Stretch Moleskin Pants

Gonna bang the drum on these things for as long as I can. Love ’em. Just got a pair in and the first time I wore them a lady friend said she loved the color (the “Umber” above) and since we were in relatively close contact at the time, she asked permission to touch them. Yes, she enjoyed touching my pants. And no, Mrs. Dappered if you’re reading this there’s nothing to worry about, being that this lady friend in question then demanded I send her a link to where she could buy said pants for her husband (who is not the kinda guy you want to mess with). I obliged. Anyway, Moleskin is a fantastic cold weather fabric. Super soft and blocks the wind. Straight fit here. Three fall-ready shades to pick from.

 

Tailored Fit Half-Canvas Italian Wool Blazer – $ 144.50 ($ 289)

Lands' End Tailored Fit Half-Canvas Italian Wool Blazer

And it’s not on backorder! Half canvas. Workhorse Italian wool (not the softest stuff, but fine). Full review here. Also available in a traditional fit.

 

Alpaca Blend Shawl Cardigan – $ 64.50 ($ 129)

I mean, the LE version isn’t EXACTLY The Dude’s sweater, but… it’s damn close. If you have a Big Lebowski fan in your life, maybe pick up one of these, the Blu Ray, and White Russian makings for mid Christmas Day?

 

Nachtmann German Made Crystal Decanter & Glasses Set – $ 75 ($ 150)

Nachtmann German Made Crystal Decanter & Glasses Set

Meanwhile, if whiskey is more your speed and you’re not a fan of White Russians… Does appear that these things are lead-free crystal? Which is good. You never want to store spirits in leaded crystal. That stuff can leach into the liquid over time.

 

Tailored Fit Wool Year ’rounder Dress Pants – $ 44.50 ($ 89)

Flat Front Tailored Fit Wool Year ’rounder Dress Pants

Obligatory. For those that work in a more formal than smart-casual work environment, these things can be wallet-savers. Nice, lighter weight merino wool. Lots of colors to pick from and you can have em’ hemmed before they leave the warehouse. Also available in a traditional fit.

 

Tailored Fit Wool Flannels in Gray Herringbone or Olive Plaid – $ 54.50

Lands' End Tailored Fit Wool Flannel Pants

Two patterns/colors to choose from, although the charcoal is a bit short on the size run. Plus, like their other dress trousers, you can have them hemmed to a specific length before they’re shipped out to you. Original price is $ 109. Being that these are north of fifty, post code, they’ll ship for free too.

 

Primaloft Quilted Jacket – $ 74.50 ($ 149)

L.E. Quilted Jacket

Classic, Barbour-like sporting looks without the heritage brand price tag. Corduroy collar, brass-tone snaps, raglan sleeves, and a vent in the rear for ease of movement. Also available in vest form.

 

Straight Fit Flannel Lined Knockabout Chinos – $ 34.97 or Jeans – $ 39.97

Lands' End Flannel Lined Chinos & Denim

Another pair of options for cold weather pants. Flannel lined chinos or jeans, with three color options on the chinos, and just one (albeit a perfect looking deep dark blue) on the jeans. Kinda bummed that the free shipping at $ 50 threshold is only taken into account AFTER you’ve applied the code (GAP inc. does it pre-code). Therefor, you’re stuck with shelling out for shipping here.

 

Carlisle Decanter – $ 24.97 ($ 49.95)

Lands' End Carlisle decanter

So say you’re good on glasses, or, you’re looking to build a collection of decanters in an office/den for that Tommy Shelby look. Here’s a solo, non-leaded decanter that’ll do the trick.

 

Drifter Aran Cable Crewneck – $ 44.50 ($ 89)

Drifter Aran Cable Crewneck

A timeless classic. Made from cotton, so, not as expensive as wool. Also, these are fully fashioned, which means they’re knit all at once to shape a torso, instead of cutting and sewing individual pieces together.

 

Wool Blend Topcoats in Camel – $ 174.50 ($ 349) or Windowpane – $ 199.50 ($ 399)

Lands' End Wool Blend Topcoats

Classic looking topcoats with a little extra flair at the cuffs. Thankfully, no epaulets or anything like that. They kept the trench inspiration to just the sleeves. 80% wool / 20% nylon for the camel coat, 76% wool, 20% nylon, 4% other for the charcoal windowpane. Acetate linings for each. Just wish they’d put angled slash pockets on the sides instead of horizontal flaps. Angled slash pockets are much, much easier to get your hands into.

 

Cashmere V-Neck – $ 89.50 ($ 179)

Lands' End Cashmere V-Neck

Ninety bones for a basic sweater isn’t cheap, but the cashmere that Lands’ End uses really is a step above their competition. A super fine gauge makes it feel lighter in weight but still super strong. Fit is more of a straight fit, less super slim. Not enormous if you’ve got some bulk on you though. A ton of colors to pick from. Also shown at the top of this post.

 

Pendleton Cotton/Wool/Nylon Stripe Knit Throw – $ 79.50 ($ 159)

Pendleton Throw

Not Made in the USA, but instead imported. Classic striped pattern and off-white cotton/wool blend fabric. 50” x 60”. Another “Dappered Space” type of item that can set your home apart from the rest.

 

Tailored Fit Wool Flannel Sport Coat – $ 124.50 ($ 249)

Lands' End Tailored Fit Wool Flannel Sport Coat

They’re claiming this is a true half-canvas construction. Not bad for a hundred and twenty five bucks. 100% wool herringbone exterior, 100% rayon lining. Tailored fit. Add the trousers (during another sale since you can only get one item with this code and pin) and you’ve got a cold weather suit for cheap.

 

Tailored Fit Buttondown Sail Rigger Oxford – $ 19.97 ($ 39.95)

Tailored Fit Buttondown Sail Rigger Oxford

Multiple colors to pick from. Note that there are three fit options on these things. There’s traditional, tailored, and slim. Don’t forget to click on one of those before you pick your size. Now going for the price of a UNIQLO oxford.

 

Wool Car Coat – $ 149.50 ($ 299)

Lands' End Wool Car Coat

Looks real good in the catalog shots (such as above), but a little lifeless in the product image on their site? Hoping it looks more tailored in person than the boxy look the site shows. Nice hybrid, almost Filson look here. Wool blend shell with some insulation inside for warmth.

 

The Mega Splurges: Cashmere Cardigan or Cable Crew – $ 199.50 ($ 399)

Lands' End Cashmere

Oh good gravy. Got a dude on your list who has been very, very, VERY good this year? Get him a sweater he’ll wear for the rest of his life. Again, Lands’ End cashmere really is a step above the stuff you’ll find at their competition.

The 50% off 1 regular price item code LEAVES and pin 8813 expires 11/15/17. Free shipping kicks in at fifty bucks.


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

eBay RoundupTwice a week, we round up the best of menswear on…

eBay Roundup

Twice a week, we round up the best of menswear on eBay so that our readers don’t have to. For an additional roundup, along with a list of each week’s best sales, subscribe to our Inside Track newsletter.

Some nice finds today for a great winter outfit. This RRL crewneck would go well with this red plaid Ralph Lauren coat and these Alfred Sargent boots. Just pair them with some jeans and you’d be good to go. 

To find more menswear on eBay, try using our customized search links. We’ve made them so you can quickly hone-in on quality suits, excellent dress shirts, fine footwear, good jeans, workwear, contemporary casualwear, nice ties, great bags, and well-made sweaters.

Suits, sport coats, and blazers

Outerwear

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Shoes and pants

Ties

Misc.

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

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FASHION UPDATE:

How to Perfect Your Pose in 3 Steps

Last week, we shared the below video on Instagram Stories, walking you through how to get Who What Wear–worthy photos every time. Since this was one of our top-viewed stories and we received such great feedback, we wanted the tips to live here on the site as well. The video provides four simple steps to keep in mind when crafting a photo. One of the tips is “perfect your pose,” and within that tip, we shared three things to keep in mind when in front of the camera (watch the 60-second video below to find out). The most DM’ed question from this story was which app we used to edit the photo. Drumroll, please: Snapseed is the photo-enhancing tool shown below in step four. And our second most DM’ed question was about my sweater (shop it below!). Whether this is your first time watching the video or you’re back to save each helpful tip, be sure to give these tricks a try the next time you post on Instagram, and don’t forget to share your photos using #WhoWhatWearing.

Watch the clip below to find out the easy steps that will majorly improve your next photo.

Available in sizes XS to L.
Available in sizes 28 to 31. Shop the items fashion girls are buying from Revolve right now.

Celebrity Style and Fashion Trend Coverage | http://www.whowhatwear.com

BEST DISCOUNT UPDATE:

Up to 50% Off Original Price @ BCBGeneration.com!

Monday Meals: Healthy Carrot Muffin

If you are looking for a quick, delicious morning meal that is more breakfast than dessert consider this wholesome handful. Carrots, walnuts and raisins provide a satisfying density. Spices give them a warm zing and whole wheat flour ups the fiber.

Enjoy these muffins as a grab-and-go breakfast, after school snack, or coffee break treat. They are satisfying enough to carry you through the morning and healthy enough to keep you from feeling like you’ve suffered a dietary derailment before you’ve even set foot out the door.

Find the recipe for Healthy Carrot Muffins (and some adorable photos of a carrot-loving pup) at Cookie and Kate.

The post Monday Meals: Healthy Carrot Muffin appeared first on Women's Health.

Women’s Health

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Several Models Reportedly Denied Chinese Visas to Walk in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show

The 2017 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is just days away from filming, but for some up-and-coming models, the dream of walking the glittering runway alongside the Angels in Shanghai is over.  Four models have reportedly been denied the requisite Chinese visas, according to …

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Fashionista

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Cozy-Cool Leggings Outfits, Because Pants Are Highly Overrated

There are a lot of fashion leggings in existence right now. What are “fashion leggings,” you ask? They’re leggings that you can wear to the gym, but also to dinner with family, a night on the town with friends and maybe even to a Giambattista Valli show, given the designer’s newfound affinity for Nike.

Yes, leggings, those seemingly innocuous spandex bottoms that have found themselves banned from an Evanston, Illinois middle school and at the center of a United Airlines controversy, have been fully embraced by the fashion set — and not just for purposes of travel. Even Karl Lagerfeld, denouncer of sweatpants, showed kneecap leggings — albeit sequin-embellished ones — at Chanel’s 2016 Metiers d’Art show. Stateside, style soothsayer Kim Kardashian has a new go-to uniform: some form of barely-there top, coordinating leggings (capri or full length; velvet, glitter or matte, depending on her mood) and (again, if it suits her) a longline, strong-shouldered blazer of the four-figure, hard-to-find, vintage variety.

And Giambattista, Karl and Kim aren’t the only ones championing the leggings-as-pants trend. Over the past few seasons, various designers, stylish celebrities and industry insiders have made the case for putting our off-duty leggings to work, welcoming the body-con bottoms into the ever-growing athleisure fold. Generally speaking, the chicest outfits with leggings play with proportion and lean heavily on accessories. (When tight-fitting bottoms are involved, a voluminous or well-structured top is needed to balance things out.) See what we mean in the slideshow above, bench your suffocating high-waist denim, take your leggings to the streets.

[ Next: How to Master a Street Style-Worthy Leggings Look ]

The post Cozy-Cool Leggings Outfits, Because Pants Are Highly Overrated appeared first on theFashionSpot.

theFashionSpot

BEST DEAL UPDATE:

Royal Fashion Redux! Kate Middleton Pulls From Her Old Maternity Outfits for Children’s Center Visit

Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, Kate MiddletonDuchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton sticks to what works.
Such was the case Tuesday when she paid a visit to the Hornsey Road Children’s Center to check out the facilities and meet…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

Special Tip Update!

Duffle Coat History, Details & Buying Guide

In the new year, we are continuing our overcoat series with an in-depth look at the hard-wearing Duffle coat. We’ll outline its history, details, how to wear it,  and how to buy the best Duffle coat for you.

Vintage Duffle Coat

Vintage Duffle Coat

Duffle Coat History

Just like the trenchcoat, there are manifold variations of the duffle coat today, and while all are perfectly fine to wear, it is interesting to know the origins of the garment and how it obtained the characteristic hood and toggle buttons. Notably, the duffle coat remains the only coat in a classic gentleman’s wardrobe today that has a hood. Although similar hoods were long used in menswear dating back to early Christian monk’s habits, the hooded duffle coat as we know it today dates back to the 19th century.

The Royal Navy During The Second World War

The Royal Navy During The Second World War

Belgian Origins of the Term ‘Duffel’

Duffle Coats abord HMS Iron Duke 1919

Duffle Coats abord HMS Iron Duke 1919

The most common myth about the origins of the Duffle is that the coat is of Belgian heritage. The Belgian town of Duffel in the province of Antwerp was known as a clothmaking town in the 15th century that exported its cloth all over Europe. The “duffel” fabric itself was a black, rough woolen fabric, and the duffle coat was in fact named after it. However, the duffle coat itself was never produced in the namesake city, nor was it made from Duffel fabric.

Anglo-Saxon Heritage

Generals Bubbles Barker & Monty in huge Duffle Coat

Generals Bubbles Barker & Monty in huge Duffle Coat

Many claim that the English borrowed the Belgian term to create the duffle coat as we know it today, and while it is correct that the English military and especially Sir Bernard “Monty” Montgomery and Sir David Stirling, founder of the SAS, popularized this garment during WWII, the British origins of this toggle closure overcoat can be traced back to 1887.  At the time, John Partridge, a British purveyor of outerwear, began to design and offer the duffle coat for sale. The look back then was quite different from today, though it already featured the characteristic wooden toggles. The coat was shorter and cut very roomy with a slightly angled toggle front closure, which looks similar to vintage motorcycle jackets.

Polish Frock Coat at around 1850 - predecessor of the duffle coat with toggles & hood

Polish Frock Coat at around 1850 – predecessor of the duffle coat with toggles & hood

A few years later, the Royal British Navy was searching for a hard-wearing, sailor-proof coat, and so the British Admiralty commissioned the duffle coat, which turned out to be a great success and was after that worn on military ships around the world.

Polish Ancestors

Even though John Partridge designed the British duffle coat, he clearly was inspired by the Polish “frock” coat. It was first introduced around 1820 and gained some popularity in continental Europe in the 1850’s. Just like the modern duffle coat, it was tailored with a hood and a horizontal toggle closure. Of course, back then pockets were not part of a coat and was worn more closely fitted than the bulky cut of the British Navy, but nevertheless, there is a great resemblance. Toggle closures have rarely been used in menswear for the last 200 years.

The Peak

Jean Cocteau in short, white duffle coat with Coco Chanel & Miss Weiseveiller in Veneto Street, Rome 1958

Jean Cocteau in short, white duffle coat with Coco Chanel & Miss Weiseveiller in Veneto Street, Rome 1958

The duffle coat probably reached peak popularity during the 1950’s – 1960’s for several reasons. First of all, Field Marshal Montgomery had helped to create an iconic look during World War II, which is why the duffle is to this day also known as a Monty in the UK. As such, it does not surprise that he was even made into a wax figure –  wearing the Monty coat, of course. Also, Colonel David Sterling liked his coat so much that he even wore it in the desert! After the war, the military released surplus duffle coats to the public, and artists, students, and intellectuals wore them. Jean Cocteau popularized his very own version in white. As a consequence, mothers would dress their children in them, raincoats adapted the duffle cut and the Dutch men’s fashion publication SIR published an article titled “The Monty-Coat Forever”.

Sir David Stirling, founder of the SAS with Duffle Coat in the Desert

Sir David Stirling, founder of the SAS with Duffle Coat in the Desert

Farid Chenoune, author of the book Men’s Fashion History, claims it was often worn with former naval sweaters, a college scarf, and corduroy trousers, but based on the many pictures I have seen from that period, I can say that it was worn with all kinds of garments, suits, and even tuxedos!

After the coat had reached the peak of its popularity, it never came close to the same level of success again. You will still see duffle coats on the street today, even though these models are often fashion interpretations of the original, far from the real thing.

Hemp Rope & Wooden Toggles

Hemp Rope & Wooden Toggles

Duffle Coat Details & Characteristics

Since the 20th  century, a duffle coat is made of a heavy, coarse woolen fabric. It features a roomy box-cut with a hood, a square shoulder yoke, and large patch pockets with hemp rope and wooden toggle closures.

The Fabric

The Original

Huge Duffle coat worn elegantly

Huge Duffle coat worn elegantly

As mentioned above, this coat got its name, though indirectly, from the Belgian city of Duffel and the rough and heavy linen and woolen cloth produced there. As a side note, this is also the fabric used for the original duffle bag. Although the coat bears its name, is was never actually used for the duffle coat production. Instead, a similarly heavy 34 oz per yard (1050 grams per meter) of double-faced, boiled woolen cloth with a twill structure (similar to Serge) was used. As of 1900, the British Admiralty demanded that all fabric including the wool had to be British, and so only domestic cloth was used. The original color for military duffle coats was camel beige, but in the early 20th century, khaki and brown versions were used. However, the navy was not used until the thirties.  In the fifties, navy blue and other colors became more popular with the public, and today you can find them in almost any color including red, racing green, olive green, gray, fawn, yellow, white…

If you look at the picture of Monty, you can see that the coat has a thick nap similar to the Casentino cloth. I think this was simply an effect that came with the age of the woolen fabric since new duffle coats did seem to have it.

Loden

Early Ad by Gloverall

Early Ad by Gloverall

In 1950, the Englishman Harold Morris and his wife Freda, who were already in the glove and overall business for blue collar workers, bought some surplus duffle coat fabric from the Navy along with some duffle coats and recreated them for workers. However, when the demand plummeted, they refocused on the consumer market with great success and became well known as the brand Gloverall – an amalgamation of gloves and overall. Instead of the original fabric, they used a 34 oz Tyrolean Loden fabric. Loden is a great fabric for outdoor use because its woven base is felted afterward, providing the cloth with a water repellent finish that is very hard wearing.

Other Fabrics

With elevated popularity in the fifties and sixties, different fabrics were used for duffle coats. At that time, synthetic fibers were state of the art and so you’d find Nylon wool and loden blends in addition to more traditional camel hair, tweedgabardine and even popeline for summer.

Details

The Cut

David van Epps, in a duffel coat, with members of the 894 Royal Naval Air Squadron. He and other Americans chose to fight for Britain before the U.S. entered World War II.

David van Epps, in a duffel coat, with members of the 894 Royal Naval Air Squadron. He and other Americans chose to fight for Britain before the U.S. entered World War II.

In the early days of the naval duffle coat, the garment was rather spartan. If you look at the old pictures, you can see how overwhelming these coats were in size. Especially the smaller sailors look a bit lost in such a huge garment. At the time of its introduction, the crew still had to climb rigging, and so they needed to be able to move in their coats, hence the wide cut. However, at the same time, it was difficult to keep the body warm with so many open holes and so some sailors would tie the duffle coat to their body with a rope or add cord to the inside of their hood allowing them to achieve a tight fit around their face.

After the Admirals in charge had received some feedback about the coat, some design changes were made. The duffle was cut more narrowly with a straight seam down the front with a generous overlap. Shoulders were reinforced with another layer of cloth and studs were attached to the hood, allowing sailors to adjust better it. Overall, it looked much more like it does today.

Regarding coat length, the original duffle coats were rather short, just about as long as a peacoat. During WWII, the length increased to about knee length or above and today you will find most coats to be somewhere in between.

Cord & Toggle

Leather & Horn Toggles

Leather & Horn Toggles

The toggles are probably the duffle coat’s most characteristic feature. Originally, hemp cord was used in combination with wooden toggles. Gloverall substituted them with more refined looking horn toggles and leather ties in 1954, and today most toggles are made out of plastic. In the beginning, the Royal Navy seems to have favored three toggles, but later they included a fourth. Purists may want to go with four but at the end of the day, it does not matter.

You often read that toggles are easier to close with gloves than buttons. In my experience, the opposite is true, and the toggles are there for a distinctive look.

Collar Strap

Collar Strap

Collar Bar

Similarly to the trench coat, the duffle coat has a bar underneath the collar, which is closed with two buttons so your neck can be better protected from the elements.

Shoulder Pads

The shoulders feature a double layer of cloth which serves to both help repel water better and prevent premature wear of the shoulder areas due to carrying items on one’s shoulder.

Patch Pockets & Wrist Tighteners on Monty Coat

Patch Pockets & Wrist Tighteners on Monty Coat

Patch Pockets

A duffle coat features two prominent patch pockets on the outside. I have seen some with flaps though the original naval duffle coat is likely the one without flaps.

Sunspel-Gloverall Duffle coat

Sunspel-Gloverall Duffle coat

Lining

The old duffles did not have a lining but in 1954, Gloverall added a checked lining to their coats and lately it seems like some companies even use – charmingly – a Union Jack for a lining. Purists should do it like Monty and skip the lining. Interestingly, the original Monty coat featured thigh straps on the inside of the coat that allowed you to fasten the coat to your legs.

When to Wear & How to Combine a Duffle Coat

Modern day duffle coat in camel

Modern day Duffle coat in camel

F.E. Castleberry in red Gloverall duffle coat

F.E. Castleberry in red Gloverall duffle coat

Traditionally, the duffle coat was worn on top of uniforms and even today, it is worn a bit more roomy that other overcoats. Although it was combined in the fifties with a variety of suits and sport coat outfits, it is decidedly more suited to casual outfits in tweed, thornproof, Saxony, etc., rather than superfine worsteds. Needless to say, never wear it with a tuxedo unless, like Jean Cocteau, you consider this coat to be your universal overcoat.

It also pairs well with jeans, chinos and corduroys as well as tennis sweaters or other heavy knit wear. Regarding footwear, boots or brogues are better than plain toe oxfords and many people even combine it with sneakers. If you decide to buy a duffle coat in an intense color such as red or yellow, try to tone down the rest of your outfit since you are already making a bold statement. Overall, I would recommend it for all things casual and consider it improper with anything business or evening related.

Where & How to Buy Duffle Coats?

Original Montgomery Duffel Coat

Original Montgomery Duffle Coat

Over its existence, millions of duffle coats have been produced, and there are still plenty of manufacturers who offer duffle coats or their particular spin on it.  For you, that means a wide range of choices is available between vintage, new, and bespoke. However, at the same time, this means that there is a lot to choose from and in the following section I will try to help find the duffle coat that is right for you.

Used & Vintage Duffle Coats

One if the first civilian duffles made by Gloverall in the early 1950's. It is a made form Loden wool fabric with rope and wood toggles.

One if the first civilian duffles made by Gloverall in the early 1950’s. It is a made from Loden wool fabric with rope and wood toggles.

True WWII duffle coats in great condition are difficult to find. They pop up every once in a while on eBay for about £10 – 100, but shipping from the UK is quite expensive. Of course, you may also be lucky to find a great duffle coat at a local store like vintage menswear in London, but this will be the exception to the rule. Thankfully, the wider cut will make shopping online less risky regarding sizing. Also, you can try vintage websites, such as this one, this one or that one. However, always bear in mind that the smallest size they used to make them in was a size 1, and I have seen a 6’2″ man weighing 250 lb. look like he has to grow into it. So only go for WWII coats it if you really want the real thing. Otherwise it will just be way too big on you.

New Duffle Coats

Modern Monty Coat

Modern Monty Coat

When it comes to new duffle coats, you have an almost endless choice of suppliers but none of them truly provides the real thing. Likely the closest imitation regarding fabric and details comes from Gloverall – called Monty, it currently costs £325.  They claim it is original, but just the fact that they use a 90% wool and 10% PA blend proves that it is far from authentic. The fabric comes from Italy and is not 34oz heavy as it used to be. The company likes to market their Monty as the “original” duffle coat despite the fact that the company was not founded until 1951, long after the inception of the naval duffle coat. If you can overlook this marketing transgression, and live with 10% nylon, it is the closest thing to the original, and it comes in sizes that fit better than the real coats.

Another supplier that claims to make original coats is Original Montgomery, which once again shows what an impact the Field Marshal had in Britain. According to their website, they have been producing duffle coats for the British Admiralty since the 1890’s, and still produce their signature product in England. Their product is less expensive – about £170 – and in return you get 30% polyester. That alone would be a reason for me not to buy it, but if you are on a budget, it may fit the bill.

Varsity Duffle Coat

Varsity Duffle Coat

Another manufacturer that provides 100% Loden duffle coats is Schneiders Salzburg from Austria. In the US, they are not readily available, but in Europe they are widely available in haberdasheries. If you want a duffle coat with flap, LL Bean offers an 18oz version in wool and if you live in Germany, you should consider Ladage & Oelke in Hamburg, who have been offering this classic in various colors for years.

If you do not concerned with absolute authenticity, there are a number of manufacturers that offers adapted designs of the duffle coat. They include Harnold Brook, which in fact used to make the real deal once upon a time but it seems like they were taken over by an Italian company recently. Japanese companies like Headporter Plus offer their version. A more fashion forward house, Comme des Garcons, is currently selling a Varsity duffle coat by Junya Watanabe for about €1000. Personally, I would stick with a more classic cut in a vivid color such as green, red or yellow, but each to his own.

Bespoke

Bespoke Duffle Coat in Red by Richard Anderson

Bespoke Duffle Coat in Red by Richard Anderson

Last but not least, you always have the option to go bespoke. Although every bespoke tailor should be able to make you one, many may not be familiar with the specific details and due to the lack of time for research, they may decline the project. Even on Savile Row, duffle coats are not the standard but it seems like Richard Anderson has developed a custom program for duffle coats made from a 21 oz wool melton cloth in various colors. Of course, a bespoke garment will be considerably more expensive than a standard duffle coat off the rack, but the fit should also be superior and you can build your very own garment in the fabric of your choice – maybe you can find a special 34oz Loden fabric or even a real Duffel – wouldn’t that be something? Like many things in classic fashion, a garment such as the duffle coat, if you can forsee wearing it for many years, would be worth the investment.

If you have other sources for duffle coats, please contact me and I will add them to the article. What duffle coats do you own, and what colors are your favorite?


Gentleman’s Gazette

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21 Ways to Wear Wide-Leg Jeans to Work

It’s basically impossible to wear the denim without looking polished.

Work with—not against—the jeans’ voluminous shape. A puffy-sleeve blouse elevates the denim.

Yes, patchwork denim can be work-appropriate sometimes. Pair with a statement top and cool earrings.

A high-waisted pair is begging to be worn with a printed top.

Just add a statement bag.

Try this simple yet polished combo this winter: button-down + turtleneck + wool coat + heeled boots.

Cuff your pair to show off cool ankle boots.

Wide jeans are sleek and sophisticated with a turtleneck and suede boots.

A cropped cut makes these jeans a bit more casual.

Let pointed-toe pumps peek out underneath a long hemline. A structured top balances the wide jeans.

Make the denim work for an evening event with a printed bodysuit and sandal heels.

Wear an oversize button-down shirt untucked over the jeans for a cool, relaxed look.

Tuck in a slouchy sweater and add in fun accessories.

Match the wide silhouette with a chunky knit sweater.

Pairs so well with a crisp poplin shirt.

Elevate your simple jeans-and-a-tee combo with the denim.

A statement top and slides make wide-leg jeans look instantly cool.

Wear your wide jeans with a cool trench and turtleneck sweater.

Try a cool zip-front pair, like this one from Off-White.

Freshen up your pair with white loafers.

Play with proportions by doubling up on the voluminous shapes.

We love a good Canadian tux. And now, shop the best new jeans.

Celebrity Style and Fashion Trend Coverage | http://www.whowhatwear.com

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Stone Island Highlights TANK SHIELD Technology in Fall/Winter 2017 Ghost Piece Capsule

In preparation for the cold months ahead, Stone Island has released its latest capsule of technical outerwear. The Italian label’s 2017 Fall/Winter Ghost Piece collection is comprised of outerwear, knitwear and bottoms, all of which utilize cutting-edge TANK SHIELD technology.

Similar to GORE-TEX® technology, the range’s TANK SHIELD-fortified outerwear pieces feature laminated and fused multi-layer shells that provide superior water resistance and breathability. The jackets also come equipped with a detachable down liner to combat frigid Winter conditions.

Stone Island’s 2017 Fall/Winter Ghost Piece capsule is available now at HAVEN — both pieces are priced at $ 1,555 USD each. For some Stone Island styling inspiration, the Italian clothing label was recently spotlighted in SNEEZE magazine’s “The Location Issue.”

Read more at HYPEBEASTClick here to view full gallery at HYPEBEAST




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voguerunway: The 2018 Pirelli calendar, shot by the British…

voguerunway:

The 2018 Pirelli calendar, shot by the British photographer Tim Walker, features an all-black cast for the first time since 1987. Duckie Thot stars as Alice in Walker’s retelling of Alice in Wonderland, making her way through the protagonist’s trials alongside an A-list cast including the likes of Naomi Campbell, Ru Paul, and Diddy.

Read the full story. 

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The Webster FW 16

This Is the Prettiest Way to Do the Naked Trend

We’ve seen the naked trend take on new forms this year: from nude leggings to sheer maxi skirts, it turns out there are a surprising number of ways to do barely there style. But Gigi Hadid’s latest take may just be the prettiest we’ve seen. The model stepped out in a head-to-toe sheer pink ensemble that felt surprisingly polished.

For an appearance on the Today showHadid braved rainy NYC weather wearing a sheer lace bodysuit and coordinating sequin skirt by Nina Ricci. The see-through bodysuit, though not appropriate in all professional settings, worked well when styled with demure add-ons, like Hadid’s midi skirt and dainty Prada heels. One final tip: As much as we love this pretty pink ensemble, if you do try something similar, we might recommend adding a blazer before strolling past the HR department.

Read on to see Gigi’s look in full, and then shop similar pieces inspired by her rosy ensemble.

On Gigi Hadid: Nina Ricci Lace Bodysuit ($ 1000) and Draped Sequin Skirt ($ 4290); Prada Pumps ($ 950).
Available in sizes 2 to 10
Available in sizes DK 34 to 42.
Available in sizes XS to Large.

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The Art of Indigo Dyeing in ChinaChinese manufacturing nowadays…

The Art of Indigo Dyeing in China

Chinese manufacturing nowadays is synonymous with low quality, but the country has a tremendously rich history in textiles. Traders weren’t crossing the Silk Road for hundreds of years, after all, because Chinese fabrics were bad. Today the New York Times has an article on one of the oldest Chinese textile traditions – indigo dyeing, which dates back to the Qin and Han Dynasties, two hundred years before the birth of Christ. 

The NYT article focuses on how the tradition of indigo dyeing has been kept up among the Dong people in the southern Chinese province of Guizhou. As with many rapidly industrializing economies (or really even post-industrial), the city centers have been developing much more quickly than rural areas, which means people outside of Beijing and Shanghai often struggle to make a living. One way the Dong people in Guizhou have been able to make ends meet is by getting back into their traditional crafts, such as dyeing cotton in rich indigos. An excerpt:

Dyeing is so woven into Dali’s culture that the practice even survived the Cultural Revolution, when many other Dong traditions, such as shamanism, were stamped out by communist fanatics trying to destroy what they saw as a feudal past.

But the traditions have come under a different threat since China’s market economy took off in recent decades. As the lure of work and education has drawn youth to China’s growing cities, few young Dong women are left in villages like this one.

[…]

In the busy autumn mornings, it is the Dong women who wake first. The roosters were still asleep and the sky dark when Yang Xiukui stepped outside to start her day’s work. She folded a long length of indigo cloth and lay it onto a flat stone surface.

Using a heavy wooden mallet, Ms. Yang, 55, began to pound the fabric. With each thump, the cloth grew brighter, acquiring a shiny gloss. That luster — achieved through the application of cowhide extract and, at times, egg whites — is prized by Dong women. When they wear their handmade indigo clothes for holidays and festivals, the women will inspect the sheen of one another’s handiwork in the spirit of friendly competition.

As Ms. Yang worked, a chorus of roosters joined the plinking of mallets to awaken the village. Sleepy children stumbled to school along stone-paved paths while older people kibitzed on doorsteps of traditional wooden homes.

Ms. Yang brought the now-gleaming indigo cloth to a covered plastic tub in the corner of her still dark kitchen. She removed the lid, releasing a pungent, fermented odor. Inside was a dark blue, frothy liquid.

You can read the rest of the article here (there are some great photos in there). 

For those interested in Chinese indigo-dyed fabrics, Kent Wang has some pockets squares made from the material. There’s also a line called Three Animals, which is designed by a Chinese woman living in Paris. She combines the minimalism that’s made French menswear famous (think of lines such as APC, Harmony, and De Bonne Facture) with East Asian textiles. Some of the line is made from Japanese fabrics, but a lot of it is Chinese. You can find Three Animals at Trueffelschwein

(hat tip to Wale)

Put This On

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ICYMI: Knee-High Boots, Candy-Colored Suits & The 2018 Met Gala Theme Has Been Revealed

Sure, we’re all glued to our phones/tablets/laptops/watches that barely tell time, but even the best of us miss out on some important #content from time to time. That’s why, in case you missed it, we’ve rounded up our most popular stories of the week to help you stay in the loop. No need to thank …

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16 Party Shoes to Buy Now and Wear Through the Holidays

Step out in style.

When gearing up for the holiday season ahead, we typically make a mental catalogue of the party outfits that will work for the various gatherings on the social calendar. But no party outfit is complete without this staple: Party shoes. Whether you’re turning up the glitz and glam with metallic colorways or flashy detailing, or favoring a more pared back look in black but with a decidedly modern silhouette, there plenty of ways to make a statement with your footwear this holiday season. Step out in style in strappy stilettos, velvet platform sandals, or bright white mules. Whatever you end up wearing to complete your party look, you’re guaranteed to make an impression with the silhouettes, detailing, fabrications, and colorways of the party shoes we’ve rounded up below. Head below to shop 16 party shoes to buy now and wear through the holidays.

Now check out the party shoes celebrities swear by.

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American Eagle denies dissing Staten Island on sweatshirt

Is a fashion company telling Staten Islanders they’re garbage? American Eagle Outfitters recently launched a line of sweatshirts featuring images of Peanuts gang characters and paired each one with a Big Apple borough. Brooklyn was represented by “Joe Cool” Snoopy sporting his hipster shades. Manhattan featured beloved Charlie Brown and Linus leaning on a brick…
Fashion | New York Post

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The SAD Season is Upon Us Shorter Days Triggering Seasonal Affective Disorder

Source: Loyola University Health System

Seasonal affective disorder (SAD) is a type of depression triggered by shorter days and reduced light.

“We are in the midst of the full-blown SAD season,” said said Loyola Medicine psychiatrist Angelos Halaris, MD, PhD.

Seasonal affective disorder affects between three and five percent of the population. SAD is thought to be related to a chemical imbalance in the brain, brought on by lack of light due to shorter days and overcast skies.

Seasonal affective disorder affects between three and five percent of the population. SAD is thought to be related to a chemical imbalance in the brain, brought on by lack of light due to shorter days and overcast skies.

SAD causes depression, excessive sleepiness, lack of interest, reduced motivation and fatigue, making it difficult to get up in the morning. In the most severe cases, people can stay in bed all day, or even attempt suicide. The season lasts until mid-April.

“Seasonal affective disorder should not be taken lightly,” Dr. Halaris said.

Dr. Halaris said four strategies can help:

Sunshine. If possible, spend at least 30 minutes a day outside. Don’t wear sunglasses. And if it’s not too cold, roll up your sleeves – exposing your skin to sunlight helps relieve symptoms of SAD.

Lights. Your home and work should be as well-lit as possible. Open drapes and blinds to let in natural light. In addition, purchase a high-intensity light box designed for SAD therapy. Sit close to the box for 30 to 45 minutes in the morning and 30 to 45 minutes in the evening. Although you can do light therapy on your own, it’s best to consult a mental health professional.

Exercise. Exercise for at least 30 minutes a day. Exercise releases endorphins and other brain chemicals that create a sense of well-being and make you feel more energized.

Medications. If sunshine, lights and exercise aren’t enough to ward off SAD, see a mental health professional. Two classes of anti-depressant medications are effective against SAD: monoamine oxidase inhibitors (MAOIs) and selective serotonin/norepinephrine reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs and SNRIs).

 

Dr. Halaris specializes in the treatment of depression. He is medical director of adult psychiatry and a professor in the department of psychiatry and behavioral neurosciences at Loyola University Chicago Stitch School of Medicine.

 

The post The SAD Season is Upon Us Shorter Days Triggering Seasonal Affective Disorder appeared first on Women's Health.

Women’s Health

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15 First-Birthday Outfit Ideas

File under “what to wear when the baby is the center of attention.”

Embrace your inner child and whimsical rainbow and bright, bold color combos. 

If you’re at all a kid person, you’ll probably be running around playing with all the adorable attendees (or they’ll be running circles around you). Leave your heels at home and go for cute sneakers or flats. Your feet will thank you. Shop flat footwear: Saint Laurent SL/06 Court Classic Leather Sneakers ($ 595). Nike Classic Cortez Leather Sneakers ($ 90). Stuart Weitzman Pipe Mulearky Flat Embroidered Mules ($ 425)

Move about freely in an easy shirtdress or skirt instead of worrying about constantly adjusting or shifting around. With all eyes on the adorable 1-year-old, the pressure’s off dress to the nines. Shop easygoing pieces: Paloma Wool Maja Dress ($ 156). & Other Stories Metal Bar Detail Dress ($ 85). Frame Boyfriend Shirt Dress ($ 165)

Dressing a touch more conservative than you’re used to never hurts. A cute button-down shirt or crewneck sweater looks clean and polished. Shop high-neckline tops: Topshop Unique Lambeth Cutout Silk-Jacquard Blouse ($ 180). Who What Wear Cozy Striped Crew Sweater ($ 33). Farrow Striped Overlap Shirt ($ 50)

Lastly, these are young kids we’re talking about at a first birthday, and they’re liable to be messy at times. Leave your crisp whites at home because the probability of stains is much higher than at any other occasion. Shop printed pieces: Violeta by Mango Floral Print Blouse ($ 80). Reformation Carina Dress ($ 248). Victoria Beckham Printed Skirt With Cotton and Silk ($ 1590)

Next up, check out the head-to-toe red outfits that’ll inspire your holiday looks.

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On Veterans Day

Writing about “Veterans Day Sales”, and using that specific term, has always felt more than a little strange.

I know, we did the handful yesterday. And for retail in the U.S., almost any holiday has been used as an excuse for markdowns. But that’s not the case in many other countries. And frankly, it just feels downright weird to use a day when we’re supposed to celebrate our Veterans as a reason to save cash on a shirt, a mattress, or a car.

So today, instead of seeking out another great deal on clothes, maybe consider celebrating our Vets by spending some of that style budget on a donation to the USO (it’s super easy to donate, either as a one time or monthly contribution.) Or perhaps you know of some other organization that helps make the lives of military members & their families a bit more enjoyable. Y’know, more like the lives of those of us in the regular civilian population.

Because their choice to put on that uniform gives us, among many other much more important things, the freedom to wear whatever we so choose.

And an enormous heartfelt thanks to all of those in the readership who are serving, have served, and/or are family members of those in our armed forces. Be safe. Stay sharp. Thank you so much for your service.

lapel poppy

A Traditional “Remembrance Poppy“, as worn in Britain, Canada,
and other parts of the former British Empire leading up to 11/11.


Dappered Style Mail

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Naomi Campbell, RuPaul and More On What the All-POC Pirelli Calendar Means For Diversity

When Pirelli announced that its “Alice and Wonderland”-themed 2018 calendar, shot by Tim Walker, would feature an all-star cast made up entirely of people of color, the internet collectively lost its mind. Though pop culture phenomenons like “Hamilton” have proven that re-telling well-known tales …

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Going-Out Looks to Save for the Weekend

To keep your wardrobe rotation fresh.

A flirty, fur-trimmed top is made for Saturday nights out. On Olivia Lopez: Staud top; Reformation Mid Crop Flare Jean ($ 128)

Luxe rose-gold satin looks so fresh with an all-white outfit. On Nadia Aboulhosn: By Nadia Aboulhosn Ayla Duster ($ 70); ASOS Curve Ridley High Waist Skinny Jeans ($ 40); Violeta by Mango Essential Cotton T-Shirt ($ 20)

Who says your going-out outfit has to consist of a body-con dress and heels? Go for cool utility pants and combat boots on the weekend and never complain about your feet hurting again. On Patricia Manfield: A.L.C. Stone Fur Coat ($ 2195); I Am Gia Electra Pant ($ 115); AllSaints Cony Boot ($ 348)

When in doubt, all black never fails. On Danielle Bernstein: Noisy May Rino Sateen Bomber Jacket ($ 35); Danielle Guizio Sheer Bodysuit ($ 63); Proenza Schouler Belted Wool-Blend Twill Straight-Leg Pants ($ 990); Balenciaga Spandex Sock Boots ($ 925)

A satin jacquard dress and top-handle bag are the retro-chic pieces your weekend wardrobe needs. On Madelynn Furlong: Vintage dress; Courrèges bag; Céline Pirate Leather Mule ($ 765). Similar Styles: AlexaChung Mandarin Collar Brocade Mini Dress ($ 625); 3.1 Phillip Lim Alix Mini Top Handle Satchel ($ 850)

Dress up your favorite pair of black jeans with a statement top and heels. On Rocky Barnes: House of Harlow 1960 x Revolve Azalea Top ($ 138); Alice McCall There You Go Flares ($ 260); Raye x Revolve Monroe Mules ($ 158)

A little bit of mesh goes a long way. Mix the sheer piece in with feminine lace and embroidery. On Alyssa Lynch: Zara Embroidered Denim Jacket ($ 90); Only Hearts Turtleneck Top ($ 56); Aritzia Claribel Skirt ($ 98); Anine Bing Katya Bag ($ 500); Schutz Anaflor Block Heel Boots ($ 290). You can wear these six pieces from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

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