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Plastic waste in Antarctica reveals scale of global pollution: Greenpeace

OSLO (Reuters) – Plastic waste and toxic chemicals found in remote parts of the Antarctic this year add to evidence that pollution is spreading to the ends of the Earth, environmental group Greenpeace said on Thursday.


Reuters: Science News

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Fed votes to scale back hated ‘Volcker Rule’ on Wall Street

Volcker? We barely knew her! The Federal Reserve approved a plan to scale back a controversial Obama-era rule that limited certain types of risky trading — but got blamed for making the financial crisis worse. The restrictions, codified in a section of the 2010 Dodd-Frank financial reform law called the “Volcker rule,” all but killed…
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The Formality Scale: How Clothes Rank From Formal To Informal

One of the key tenets of classic style is to always dress appropriately for the occasion, which is most often stipulated by the required level of formality. But which articles of clothing are appropriate to different levels of formality, and how do they rank in comparison to one another? For an event hosted by Queen Elizabeth II, you’d select different items than you would for office work or for a weekend brunch with friends.  In this article, we present some general principles to determine the formality of nearly any menswear item and provide you with a list of clues to recognize where they fall on the scale of casual to formal.

The General Rules of Formality

Every item of clothing and every accessory falls somewhere on the continuum of formality, and there are some broader principles you can use to see at a glance where that is.

Dress Codes Formality Scale

Dress Codes Formality Scale

1. Casual vs. Formal Colors

As a rule, brighter colors are more casual than somber ones. A mid-blue suit is less formal than one in navy blue or charcoal gray.

Colors formality scale

Colors formality scale

A useful technique to sort this out is to think of colors one could typically wear in the summer as casual, no matter what the season–beige, white, or light blue, for example. Although not really a bright color, brown is also more casual than navy or grey. A lot of this is owed to the long-established British distinction between city and country wear. Browns were not supposed to be worn in town, which immediately associates the color with a more casual rural setting than the charcoal grey or navy one would wear when doing business in London.

A navy suit is more formal than one in a brighter blue.

A navy suit is more formal than one in a brighter blue.

2. Casual vs. Formal Texture

The smoother and often the shinier the fabric, the more formal it generally is. A textured basketweave fabric would be more likely to appear on a sports coat than a classic suit, and corduroy would make for casual trousers not dress pants. As a general guideline, if there’s strong visual evidence of the weave or texture, it’s more casual. Ties that are made of rough wool or slubby shantung are casual while smoothly printed silks are business ties; on the other hand, you wouldn’t wear a shiny satin silk tie to work as its shine makes it too formal for that setting; satins should be reserved for evening events. Shine can be thought of as a variant on texture, as it is usually associated with smoothness. Shiny silk appears on the lapels of tuxedo jackets and on cummerbunds. Velvet, which has a distinctive sheen, is used for dinner jackets. Patent leather is used for opera pumps as part of formal evening wear.

The top fabric shows a prominent weave on a casual sports coat (as does the color); the bottom shows a formal Super 150s worsted wool.

The top fabric shows a prominent weave on a casual sports coat (as does the color); the bottom shows a formal Super 150s worsted wool.

3. Patterns and Formality

Similar to texture, patterns also play a role in assessing formality. Articles of clothing with patterns tend to be less formal than those that are plain. Indeed, in British tailoring, many of the most popular and classic menswear patterns, particularly any plaid–from houndstooth to glen check, to Prince of Wales–were originally reserved for less formal country wear. A possible exception could be ties and pocket squares, as all sorts of patterns are acceptable on silk business ties (the printed silk it’s made of supersedes any informality of pattern). Even formal morning wear allows ties with patterns on them, whether geometric or stripes; however, a solid color tie would still be considered more conservative. Among patterns, those that are smaller and therefore less forceful are more formal than those that are large or loud. A mistake commonly made by beginners looking to “dress up” is buying designer or fashion items that usually have a lot of ornamentation, for instance, a gold and black jacket, when the exact opposite–a lack of pattern–would actually be more refined.

A strong pattern does not make an article of clothing more formal.

A strong pattern does not make an article of clothing more formal.

4. Structure and Formality

Another rule in classic menswear is that the more something is structured the more formal it is. In the realm of suit jackets and sports coats, those with canvas, lining, and padding have greater formality than those that are unlined or partially lined with unpadded shoulders. Ties that contain an interlining are likewise more formal than those that are hand-rolled, unlined, and untipped because the former are more constructed. Even shirts fit under this umbrella. If you have a hard collar, the shirt will be more formal than one with a soft or unfused version.

The tailoring in the Kingsman films displays strong structure.

The tailoring of the Kingsman films displays strong structure.

5. Purpose and Formality

Knowing the origins and historic uses of the article of clothing, which you can learn from The Gentleman’s Gazette, can also be a way of judging it. If you have something that was originally intended to be worn in the country, for sport, or for utilitarian purposes, like a flat cap or a polo shirt, it would more casual than something intended as business attire.

The flat cap has its origins in British rural clothing.

The flat cap has its origins in British rural clothing.

Now, having provided the clues that enable you to assess the formality of clothing in general, we can turn our attention to the earmarks of specific wardrobe items.

Jackets

1. Structure

Continuing the discussion above, when dealing with suit jackets or sports coats, quite simply, more structure means a greater degree of formality. It is therefore not surprising that men who are accustomed to wearing highly structured suits every day for work turn to unstructured jackets in the Neapolitan style when they’re not on the job precisely because they are more relaxed. This is owed to the tailoring of Naples, which tends toward less structure; their jackets are lightly lined and have a “natural shoulder” free of padding. The absence of structure has led them to be embraced by those who want to dress for fun and style rather than for business pursuits.

Unpadded "natural shoulder."

Unpadded “natural shoulder.”

2. Fabric

The broader rules about materials and patterns also apply, with coarse or patterned jackets tending toward the casual end of the spectrum contrasted with smooth, solid ones. We can easily rank the most common materials used for tailored jackets in order of casualness based on their general “roughness”: linen, then cotton, then wool–with raw or rough wools (tweed and flannel) being a rung below worsted, and, lastly, cashmere. Wrinkling, common with linen (and cotton) can be thought of as a kind of texture, something that disrupts a smooth appearance, whereas wools do not wrinkle as easily, especially worsted, which elevates their formality. Cashmere has a smooth hand and a distinctive sheen that puts it at the high end. Pure silk could be thought of as the most formal of jacket materials, given its smoothness and shine, but these are nearly impossible to find and impractical to maintain because of the delicacy of silk fibers.

Summer linens rank as the most casual of fabrics for their "rough" texture and their tendency to wrinkle easily.

Summer linens rank as the most casual of fabrics for their “rough” texture and their tendency to wrinkle easily.

3. Pockets

Unique among menswear items, pocket style on a jacket serves as a strong indicator of how casual or formal it is.

Jacket pockets formality scale

Jacket pockets formality scale

Patch pockets, which are formed from material sewn onto the surface of the jacket’s lower front quarters, are the most casual; they are common on sports coats and casual suits. If there is a patch breast pocket as well, the jacket becomes even more relaxed. Next up in formality are flap pockets. Usually, with flap pockets, no additional material is used on the surface of the jacket; the pockets are hidden beneath the surface of the jacket with only the flap visible. Flap pockets were originally associated with country wear in British tailoring but are now most common on business suits, though they may also feature in sports coats. Lastly, we have jetted pockets, which are like flap pockets in construction but with no flap; the pocket is simply a slit with edge stitching. The result is a very clean, minimalist look, which you’ll find on formal wear: dinner jackets, tuxedos and morning wear.

Patch Pocket, Green & Orange

Patch pockets are more casual

4. Lapels

Lastly, lapels are an easy way to assess a jacket’s formality.

Jacket lapels formality scale

Jacket lapels formality scale

In a nutshell, a notched lapel is less formal than a peak lapel, which is the most formal kind, appearing on power suits and formal wear. On a tuxedo or dinner jacket, you may also see a shawl collar; this is limited to formal jackets, so it remains more elevated than a notch lapel but is still more relaxed than a peak lapel. Thus, for example, a white dinner jacket that would be worn on a summer cruise should technically have a shawl collar given the relatively relaxed nature of the garment compared to a black tuxedo.

Tom Ford in a double-breasted tuxedo with peak lapels and jetted pockets.

Tom Ford in a double-breasted tuxedo with peak lapels and jetted pockets.

Pants

As a visual cue to assess formality, if a pair of pants has a sharp crease down the center of the legs, it’s more formal than one with a smooth front. The former are “dress pants,” while the latter would also include chinos and jeans. The “crease” division not coincidentally conforms to the rule of materials as well because dress pants are mostly made of wool while chinos are made from cotton or linen. Frankly, wool holds a crease much better than cotton or linen.

Within the category of chinos itself, there can be a range of formality as well: more casual chinos display a visible flat seam on the inner legs whereas so-called “dress chinos” are cleaner, with seams that are minimized. The presence of ornamental details on pockets, like metal rivets or decorative stitching, such as what you’d see on a pair of jeans, are also emblems of casual style.

Dress pants (left) with a distinct crease; chinos (right) with more evident seam details, no pleat, and a metallic button closure.

More formal dress pants (left) with a distinct crease; less formal chinos (right) with more evident seam details, no pleat, and a metallic button closure.

Shirts

1. Fabric

What looks at first glance like the same plain white dress shirt can offer varying levels of formality depending on factors like the weave, the cuffs, and the collar. With its relative thickness, somewhat rough texture, and patch pocket, the Oxford cloth typical of the classic OCBD shirt is considered among the more casual dress shirting fabrics. For this reason, they add a casual touch to tailoring and may be more associated with sports coats than business suits, though the rule is flexible. Common pinpoint cotton or broadcloth represent a middle ground in business shirts: they can be worn with essentially anything as well but are more formal than OCBDs. Even more elevated are weaves that continue the association of shininess and formality, like Royal Oxford and twills; these are best worn with suits or formal wear. Of course, following the established general principles, patterned shirts are more casual than solids, and the bigger or more visible the pattern (think wide butcher stripes or plaids) the more casual the shirt will be.

Paul Newman wears a classic oxford collar button down OCBD

Paul Newman wears a classic oxford collar button down OCBD

 

2. Collars

Dress shirt collars come in a variety of forms, and, once more, the button-down collar is the most casual, perhaps because of its association with the OCBD, or with the sport of polo, or because it shows visible buttons.

Collars formality scale

Collars formality scale

After this, the point, semi-spread, and spread are about equal in terms of formality, and all are appropriate for business settings. They can’t really be ordered in terms of formality, though arguably, because variants of the spread collar are de rigueur with tuxedos, it may be somewhat more elevated. Collars with vintage appeal, such as a tab collar, hearken back to a more formal time and are consequently seen as more formal especially when worn with a tie pin. The wing collar may be the most formal of all, as it is only worn with formal wear and has associations with vintage style.

3. Cuffs

This is an easy one since, unlike collars, there are only a few kinds of shirt cuffs. Basically, French or double cuffs that require cufflinks are more elevated than ones with buttons. With a tux or a morning suit, only French cuffs will do; on the other hand, wearing French cuffs with a casual linen sports coat would look out of place.

Double Cuffs & precious cuff links

French cuffs paired with semi-precious stone cufflinks heightens the formality of an ensemble

Ties

Where wool reigns supreme as the formal fabric for tailored jackets and dress pants, silk is the queen of tie fabrics. However, not all silks are equally formal. Ties made of raw (shantung) or wild (tussah) silk that shows a lot of texture or slubbiness and those that are knitted (as opposed to woven) silk are perfect to wear with casual tailoring. An interesting exception is grenadine, which is a popular choice for business wear even though the weave is quite an obvious feature. Perhaps this is owed to its shininess. Ties made of materials other than silk, such as linen, cotton, wool, and even cashmere, remain less formal, either because they are not as smooth or shiny. Interestingly, pattern matters less with ties in determining formality–a printed silk tie with stripes or a repeating geometric pattern is only barely less formal than one in a solid color.

micropattern ties by Fort Belvedere

Micropattern ties by Fort Belvedere

 

 

Shoes

Shoes Formality Scale

Shoes Formality Scale

In order from least formal to most formal dress shoes (excluding boots), we have loafers, derbies, monk straps, and oxfords. The very name “loafer” implies casual relaxation as does its slipper-like form. Derby shoes were originally country wear though they are at home with sport coats and even suits these days; still their association with casual settings remains. Monk straps are sort of at the same formality levels as derbies, but they are perhaps more frequently worn with suits than a derby would be. Lastly, we have oxfords, which are the most formal of shoes, equally useful for suits and formal wear. Color also matters, with black shoes considered more elevated than brown, again based on the old British “no brown in town” rule. Indeed, even now many men will only wear black shoes with navy or gray business suits though brown is worn for everything in Italy and has become more acceptable with suits in most settings. The principles of shine and texture also apply, with suede and nubuck shoes being more laid back than polished calf leather.

Country gents in riding attire fashion illustration

Note the bold patterns, brighter colors, and warm brown tones indicate less formal attire; these split-tow Norwegians are traditionally country wear

Beyond these principles, two factors–ornamentation and structure–are also influential when determining the formality of shoes.

1. Ornamentation

With shoes, less is more (formal, that is), in terms of broguing and other ornamental details like wingtips. Case in point: the black patent oxfords worn with evening attire are actually quite plain except for their high shine, and for everyday business wear, black oxfords with a plain captoe are appropriate. In fact, these black oxfords are also the shoe to wear with a formal morning suit. However, those who are new to classic style may be drawn to the intricate perforations that form the broguing on a shoe. They assume because broguing is so ornate and requires extra leather work that more of it equals a fancier shoe. On the contrary, simple is more elegant, something we can remember when we keep in mind that brogue perforations were originally designed for drainage on country shoes.

A cognac wingtip derby shoe with broguing versus a simple black captoe oxford, both from Acemarks

A cognac wingtip derby shoe with broguing versus a simple black captoe oxford, both from Acemarks

2. Structure

Although all loafers can be called mocassini in Italian, even these can be sub-divided in terms of how much structure they have. A soft loafer is generally made of suede and is quite slipper-like, looking more like what one would consider a true moccasin. It’s an excellent shoe for summer weather as it is very lightweight and comfortable, which also makes it casual. Structured loafers can come in either suede or calf leather but are firmer and by virtue of this, more formal in appearance.

Soft, less structured loafer (top) and more structured loafer (bottom)

Soft, less structured loafer (top) and more structured loafer (bottom)

Conclusion

Knowing whether an item from your wardrobe is casual or formal and exactly how much can be important. It can help you decide whether what you are wearing is formal enough for an occasion or whether it’s too formal for everyday situations. It can also help you coordinate and pair aspects of what you wear because you’ll know, for example, that oxford shoes don’t usually work with jeans unless you’re trying to make a statement with the incongruity. Fortunately, there are certain qualities and earmarks that help you sort out where items reside on the scale of formality and thus which ones go together. Do you have a different system for distinguishing smart casual from formal clothes? Are there other articles of clothing that can be sorted by levels of formality? Let us know in the comments below.


Gentleman’s Gazette

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It’s Time to Abolish the Rookie Wage Scale, Why the Ravens Desperately Needed Lamar Jackson, and Saquon Barkley is Not Solely a Running Back

Also, why something will have gone very wrong if Baker Mayfield is not starting Week 1, Shaquem Griffin lands in the right place at the right spot, a rough couple nights for the Cowboys, hooray for the Titans, a reminder to never tweet, and the comedy stylings of John Dorsey. Plus—no musical guest—but the jerk dog from Go, Dog. Go!

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Dad uses ‘cheesesteak for scale’ system to measure his baby

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Will.i.am Raises $117 Million to Scale A.I. Platform Omega

Will.i.am

In addition to being a super-creative talent from The Black Eyed Peas, Will.i.am has been playing quite heavily in the tech space. We watched him host Apple’s new series Planet of the Apps, alongside Jessica Alba, Gary Vaynerchuk, and Gwyneth Paltrow, without too much knowledge of what he was working on… until now.

Introducing, I.am+, a tech startup focused on artificial intelligence, similar to Apple’s Siri and Amazon’s Alexa, according to Reuters. The company just closed $ 117 million in venture funding, and houses over 300 employees.

Prior to raising this round, the company closed $ 89 million from Salesforce Ventures, but that was quietly kept.

“I wanted to create something that allows us to do many things,” Will.i.am, founder and chief executive of the company, told Reuters. “There’s so much you can do with a voice platform.”

Will.i.am is going the enterprise route versus straight to consumer, which allows him to create a large amount of scale very quickly. The company’s first customer was Deutsche Telekom AG (DTEGn.DE), the German telecommunications giant.

Not only does Deutsche Telekom AG (DTEGn.DE) house T-Mobile, but its other assets include Slovak Telekom (Slovakia); Magyar Telekom (Hungary), which holds majority shares in Makedonski Telekom (Macedonia); and Hrvatski Telekom (Croatia), which holds majority shares in Crnogorski Telekom (Montenegro).

Initially, when the company launched, it appeared on the market feeling very similar to Beats By Dre. It was introduced as premium wireless Bluetooth earphones with excellent sound quality for calls and music. It flaunted fashionable colors that would match your iPhone or Android devices. Although these earphones are still on the market, it seems that the focus is now more on enterprise growth and capturing market share.

 

Will.i.am (Image: Wikimedia Commons)

 

The website describes the enterprise side of the company as, Omega, an “A.I. platform which was built to be conversational & contextual. It is a voice-first A.I. platform that delivers natural and engaging user experiences for organizations of any size.”

 

Lifestyle – Black Enterprise

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Is It Time To Scale Your Business? Here’s How To Tell

scale

The ability to scale your business will eventually become an important issue as you grow. The reality is, if you really want to have a profitable company, you’re likely going to have to find ways to scale your business.

Granted, not everyone wants to scale and that’s okay. But for those of us that do, this article will outline some surefire signs that it may be time.

 

What do you mean “scale your business”?

 

When I first started in business, I had no idea what “scale your business” even meant. It seemed like a foreign concept, kind of the same way “systems” did when I first started.

According to a quick Google search,” scalabilty” is defined as “the capacity to be changed in size or scale.”

In a business sense, it’s more like find the tools and having the products that allow you to either take on more work or trade less time for money.

  • Scale Your Business Option #1: Hire out certain things for your business so you can focus on taking on more client work. Like hiring writers to start an agency instead of doing all the writing yourself.
  • Scale Your Business Option #2: Create products one time and then sell them over and over again.
  • Scale Your Business Option #3: Find systems and tools that allow you to automate things in your business. For example, an auto webinar software that looks like a real webinar so you can host several per week without actually having to do it yourself.

If you’re anything like me, you likely have a mix of all three going on. However, this all started with me being a freelance writer. Eventually, I had to step away from that and find different ways to scale.

Here are 5 signs that it may be time to scale your business.

 

Sign #1: You’re at max capacity.

 

Many businesses start out with the owner providing some sort of service of skill on an hours for dollars type model.

For example, I started as a freelance writer. This requires me to trade my time for money.

Eventually, you hit max capacity with this type of business model. After all, there are only so many hours in a day and so much work you can get done within said hours.

This may be when you first start thinking about how to scale your business. You start wondering how you can make more money without having to work nearly as hard or as long.

At first, it may look like hiring people to get stuff off your plate. It may also look like increasing your rates. But, eventually, those aren’t enough either and you start moving up the ladder. At this point, profit becomes more of a motivator.

 

Sign #2: You start craving more leverage in your business.

 

Another sign that it may be time to scale your business is that you want to increase profit.

Let’s say that, like me, you’ve already hired out what you need to hire out. You’ve also already increased your rates to the highest they’ve ever been.

At this point, you’ll likely want to find yourself increasing profit. In my case, that looks like building leverage into my business in the form of some sort of a group coaching/consulting program.

This allows me to a) help more people, b) use up less of my time and c) make more money while using less of my time.

After you’ve been doing one-on-one work for a while, this is something you start gravitating towards to free up some of your time.

 

Sign #3: You have a profit motive.

 

The next sign that it may be time to scale your business is if you want to increase your profits.

After you’ve delegated and raised your rates, the only real way to increase profits from there is to scale your business. It could be leading group consulting programs, it could be selling digital course, it could be using systems to take the place of you.

The reality is that once we hve the products and systems in place, we can create more profit because we can make recurring income on something that’s already been created and we can move people through a sales process without actually having to be present for the whole thing.

This leads to more automated sales and more time for the business owner to decide what to do with. You can decide to find more clients or create something new, or you can decide to go to yoga. The choice is yours.

 

Sign #4: You want multiple streams of income.

 

Multiple streams of income isn’t just a good way to scale your business, it’s also a good way to scale your life in general. Having your money coming from different places allows for a certain type of peace of mind that those with a steady paycheck may not have.

The good news is you can create several streams of income as you scale your business. For instance, you can use auto-webinar software to create multiple webinars for different products.

The products are sold from the webinar without you actually having to be present. You can also have recurring revenue in the form of a membership site with exclusive content. This is steady money you have coming in each month and another way to supplement revenue without you needing to be present.

 

Sign #5: You want passive streams of income.

 

At some point in your business, you’ll likely want to start creating passive streams of income. In order to do this, you’ll need to scale your business.

The examples I mentioned in the previous section weren’t just examples of multiple streams of income, they were also an example of how to sell products passively by using tools that don’t allow you to be actually present.

 

Final Thoughts

 

While it takes some time to scale your business, it’s worth considering if you want to continue making more money. That’s why you need to start thinking about this sooner rather than later.

 

This article was written by  and originally appeared on DUE.com.

 


Amanda Abella is a full-time writer who specializes in online business and finance. She’s also an online business coach and the Amazon best-selling author of Make Money Your Honey.

Small Business – Black Enterprise

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Hand Held Digital Luggage Scale

Hand Held Digital Luggage Scale


Never Pay Overweight Baggage Fees Again! With our new Hand Held Digital Luggage Scale, you will always know how much your Sportube or luggage weighs before you go to the airport. Avoid those frustrating times at the check in counter, riffling through your bags, to take out 2-5 pounds so you don`t get charged extra fees. With baggage fees going through the roof, this scale will pay for itself with one use. Just loop it through your Sportube or luggage handle, hold up until the weight shows and you`re done. It`s that easy to make sure you are under your airlines allowable weight limit before overweight fees kick in.
List Price: $ 24.95
Price: $ 24.95