CFDA Introduces Sustainability Initiatives to Help Guide Designers Looking for Cleaner Ways to Work

With “where to begin” being a common conundrum for many brands considering sustainability, the CFDA has launched its Sustainability Initiatives to help designers do their part to clean up the fashion industry.
In line with the United Nations’ call for the fashion industry to act on its global mandate on sustainability, the CFDA has rolled out a four-part strategy. Many designers’ questions may be answered by referencing the first edition of the CFDA Guide to Sustainable Strategies, the Sustainable Strategies Toolkit, the CFDA Materials Index or the CFDA Sustainability Directory.
While Eileen Fisher, Stella McCartney and other designers have been committed to trying to clean up the industry’s excessive waste for a while, many less established brands are examining sustainability for the first time. The United Nations Alliance on Sustainable Fashion will stage its launch event March 14, during a media event of the 4th U.N. Environment Assembly in Nairobi, Kenya. Just as consumers have learned about the environmental farm-to-table choices, sustainability supporters are hopeful that greater awareness about the need for sustainable fashion will lead to changing the consumption and production habits.
Konstantin Grcic recently joined forces with the Aeance to create a sustainable capsule collection. Stella McCartney has been leading the

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EXCLUSIVE: Heron Preston on Opening Paris Men’s Fashion Week

PARIS — “Streetwear on the runways of Paris has always been that vision that I’ve shared with my friends, the ultimate opportunity to present some new fresh ideas in a city and platform that we have always looked up to,” said Heron Preston, who today at the Palais de Tokyo will present the first runway show of his namesake label, as part of the official calendar of Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Call him a quick learner. Preston, who was “raised” by the skate culture in San Francisco where he grew up, and who first started making noise in 2012 with his art-project bootleg spins on the Givenchy Rottweiler T-shirt, said that it was only around four years ago, when he started working with Kanye West, that he was introduced to the world of Paris fashion.
A former art director for West, Preston — who’s considered a post-Internet Renaissance man — worked at Nike and was also a part of the Been Trill art and DJ collective with Virgil Abloh, Justin Saunders and Matthew Williams.
“I really put myself in that environment with Virgil, Matthew and Kanye [West]. And going to Paris with those guys, I was always that kid who felt like a bit

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Virgil’s Vuitton Is Already Selling Faster Than the Supreme Tie-up

LIKE A VIRGIL: Virgil Abloh’s first designs for Louis Vuitton have yet to hit the French luxury giant’s boutique network, but they’re already selling up a storm.
A pop-up in Tokyo that opened last week raked in 30 percent more in the first 48 hours than Vuitton’s collaborative collection with Supreme in 2018, Vuitton chief executive officer Michael Burke told WWD.
He attributed the success to “pure unadulterated desire,” citing particularly strong demand for tailored ready-to-wear, mini trunks in white leather and transparent and iridescent weekend bags.
“It was merchandised as a full collection,” he said, also noting that the rush came despite no dedicated marketing campaign, advertising or gifting. About 1,000 people queued up in the Japanese capital to be among the first to buy.
The Supreme collaboration, seen as a watershed moment for streetwear, sold exclusively last June through eight pop-ups in Paris, London, Miami, Los Angeles, Tokyo, Beijing, Seoul and Sydney.
Vuitton opted for a similar stealth approach for Abloh’s debut spring 2019 collection, first hosting pop-up stores in London and Shanghai last October. One in New York also opened last week, with the first day an invitation-only event for 200 people.
Crowned WWD’s Newsmaker of the Year last year, Abloh went from

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Mr Porter Celebrates Beams F Global Launch With Milan Party

JAPANESE STYLE: Men’s wear online shopping destination Mr Porter celebrated the global launch of the Beams F brand on its site with a cocktail party Sunday in Milan during men’s fashion week.
Beams F, the tailoring line launched in 1978 by storied Tokyo-based retailer Beams, is setting its global distribution exclusively through the e-tailer, where it will launch as a 31-piece capsule collection, including shirts and suits, which the Japanese brand is specialized in, as well as knitwear and outerwear. The lineup will hit mrporter.com on Jan. 28.
“The event was a wonderful celebration of our continued partnership with Beams, which will be launching its Beams F line exclusively on Mr Porter later this month. Finally, our global customers will be able to access the iconic brand for the first time ever outside of Japan,” said Yoox Net-A-Porter Group chief executive officer Federico Marchetti.
“We’ve had a very close relation with Beams for quite a number of years and we obviously carry about four of the brands that they produce…we were like, ‘We do the casual brands so why don’t we do the luxury tailoring brand?’” said Fiona Firth, buying director for Mr Porter at the launch event, noting over the past year

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Dsquared2 Men’s Fall 2019

In the Instagram era, experiences are becoming key to making a difference in the real, physical environment. While images and videos available on smartphones can help a brand spread its message, a proper event can guarantee guests will go back to their homes with special memories and emotions. This is what Dean and Dan Caten must have thought when they conceived the format of their fall runway show, with guests standing by the catwalk as at a music concert and bars serving drinks. And, indeed, the music was great — a mix of pop, dance and Madonna’s iconic songs. The thing is, people weren’t there for the soundtrack or the drinks. They were supposed to be there to see the clothes. Even if Dsquared2’s intentions were noble — offering a fun, entertaining and unconventional experience during fashion week — the result missed the mark, with several editors leaving before the end of the show because they couldn’t see a thing.
Those who managed to sneak in through the crowd witnessed a pop, rock ‘n’ roll, grungy, disco extravaganza. After presenting a pre-fall collection focused on chic, wearable pieces, the Caten brothers used their fall coed runway to send out a clear

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Front Row at Prada Men’s Fall 2019

PRADA’S BRITS: British actor Callum Turner took in his first Prada show, although he said he had been to Milan a few times. “I love Milan and managed to see friends in a short amount of time,” he said, adding a few Italian words. Coming up for Turner are a BBC “conspiracy thriller” and his role as Frank Churchill in a new rendition of “Emma,” opposite Anya Taylor-Joy playing the titular heroine. “We need more Emma,” he joked about the latest cinematic version of the Jane Austen novel. Filming “in and around England” will start in May, directed by this “really cool American photographer and director Autumn de Wilde, who did Beck’s album and lots of iconic rock ‘n’ roll photos.”
British actor Will Poulter said he was in Milan just for the Prada show, although he did manage to squeeze in one Italian meal. “Yeah, we went to Pizza Express,” joked Turner, who was sitting nearby. The Brits never leave their sense of humor behind, do they? Poulter is currently playing Colin, a computer programmer, in “Black Mirror: Bandersnatch” on Netflix and will star in “Midsommar,” a film about a summer holiday gone wrong, which is due for release later this year.
Turner and

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L.B.M. 1911, Efisio Marras Partner for Capsule Collection

SARTORIAL PUNK: L.B.M. 1911, one of the brands in the portfolio of the Mantua, Italy-based men’s suit maker Lubiam, has partnered with Efisio Marras on a capsule collection.
Lubiam’s chief executive office Giovanni Bianchi said the designer, who is creative director of the I’m Isola Marras brand and Antonio Marras’ eldest son, “shares with us a great passion for tailoring.”
“Innovation and experimentation have always been the signature elements of L.B.M. 1911, and, in this case, we were able to explore new possibilities, enhancing our know-how,” he said.
The collection offers sartorial looks revisited with a punk vibe filtered through Marras’ vision, including tartan suits styled with chain accessories and tailored outfits embellished with floral prints. The designer’s touch also appears on a range of coats, which are at the core of L.B.M. 1911’s business.
 

A look by Efisio Marras for the L.B.M. 1911 capsule collection. 
Courtesy photo

“The inspiration of the capsule collection is legendary Sex Pistols bass player Sid Vicious, reimagined in today’s context,” said Marras, who crafted superskinny fits from a mix of tartan fabrics and corduroy. The designer’s goal is to engage Millennials “who want to preserve their punk spirit” throughout their daily working routine.
Two looks from the capsule collection were teased

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Thom Browne Attends First Ermenegildo Zegna Show

FAST FRIENDS: “He’s my new best friend, I love our friendship,” gushed Thom Browne of Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. Although his own show is slated for Paris next week, the designer took the time to fly to Milan to show his support for Zegna, which took a majority stake in Thom Browne Inc. at the end last August. While Browne demurred from detailing any specific future plan for the brand, he said there will be “a lot more stores opening in the next couple of years.”
In a sign of Zegna’s pull in China, Hong Kong singer and actor William Chan Wai-ting attended the show, flanked by, among others, the brand’s longtime friend, actor Daniel Brühl; model Winnie Harlow, who snapped photos of the looks throughout the show, and American actor McCaul Lombardi, who fronted Zegna’s advertising campaign with Robert De Niro in 2017. Michele Norsa, vice chairman of Missoni, was also at the show, having joined the board of Zegna in 2017.
SEE ALSO:
Review: Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Fall 2019
Gallery: Backstage at Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Fall 2019

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Giorgio Armani Shows his Love of Colors

TRUE COLORS: The photographic exhibit “Fabula,” unveiled Friday evening at the Armani Silos space, isn’t what one would really expect from Giorgio Armani–and the designer knows it. “I was tickled by the idea that people think I love neutrals so much, that this is a contradiction and that Armani doesn’t love colors, but, actually, here they are,” said Armani during a walkthrough. “I fell in love with these color palettes, and I had fun with the images.”
Indeed, the exhibition of more than 250 images by French photographer Charles Fréger, his largest to date and running until March 24, is joyful and entertaining, capturing a variety of subjects from around the world, ranging from the Finnish ice-skating team and images of young Sumo wrestlers and Sikh soldiers to whimsically and artfully painted Jaipur elephants or quirky yet traditional masked costumes.

Two photos by Charles Fréger 
Charles Fréger

Armani, who years ago staged his own “Eccentrico” exhibition said there is a “need for eccentricity today. He lamented how generally “we are now stupidly attracted by small and banal things, but we need to be stimulated.” In fashion, too, it seems “anything now is an invention, but that’s not true. We must be inventive.”
 

Photos by Charles Fréger 
Charles

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Highlights From the Fall Offering at Pitti Uomo

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

Brunello Cucinelli 
Simone Lezzi/WWD

Designer: Brunello Cucinelli
Inspiration: The luxury label found the inspiration for its new collection in the elegance of the Fifties. Calling the lineup “Gentleman at Ease,” Cucinelli offered a relaxed take on classic tailoring. The brand, which this season enlarged its booth at Pitti Uomo, returned the focus to its wide offering of suits, which ranged from effortless-chic styles targeting the new generation of men to evening options. In keeping with this renewed attention on suits, Cucinelli recently introduced in key stores a made-to-measure program that enables shoppers to create customized tailoring styles while experiencing the brand’s Italian lifestyle in dedicated areas offering high-end facilities and services.
Key Styles: In the suiting range, while jackets were cut close to the body, Fifties-inspired high-waisted pants with double pleats were among a selection of wider, comfortable silhouettes. Fabrics spanned from traditional wools and cashmeres to flannels, corduroy and velvet. Knitwear took center stage with cozy crewneck and V-neck sweaters, sometimes embellished with sporty-chic tennis details that showed rich melange effects. The color palette focused on neutral tones of gray, blue and beige, enriched with accents of warm dark red and deep purple hues. — Alessandra Turra
 
Z ZEGNA

ZZegna 
Simone Lezzi/WWD

Designer: Alessandro Sartori
Inspiration: Innovation was

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Homme Plissé Issey Miyake to Hold First Presentation in Paris

NEW PLEATS: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, a men’s line from the Japanese designer, is holding its first presentation in Paris on Jan. 17.
Choreographed by Daniel Ezralow, the artistic presentation will take place at the Pompidou Center at 9 p.m., following the Issey Miyake show earlier in the day at 11 a.m. in the Palais de Tokyo. Ezralow choreographed a presentation for Homme Plissé Issey Miyake featuring the men’s gymnastics team of Aomori University in 2013. The Pompidou Center presentation will take place in same space as a recent exhibit on Japanese architect Tadao Ando, a large room with windows lining one side.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake was established in 2013 as a masculine counterpart to Pleats Please, which was launched two decades prior. The clothing is meant to be light and comfortable, with uniform pleats to keep fabric from sticking too close to the skin.
Designed by Miyake and his teams, pieces to be featured in the presentation are part of the fall winter 2019 collection, with most of the items pleated after being cut and sewn. The line has been growing with an offer ranging from ath-leisure and casual style clothing to suits.
In another recent Paris performance, Issey Miyake opened the

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German Designers Start Creative-led Industry Association

France has what local designers call “la Fédération” and the U.S. has the CFDA. As of this week, Germany has its own industry association “by fashion designers for fashion designers,” as the founders put it.
The German Fashion Designers Federation was initiated in spring 2018 after two years of preparation and launched officially today in Berlin, a few days before the city’s biannual fashion week begins. As yet, the Federation, or GFDF, only has a handful of members but they already have some impressive supporters: Financial backing is being provided by Mercedes-Benz and German skin-care stalwart Dr. Hauschka. German designer Bernhard Willhelm is a member and other big, local names, yet to be announced, are also expected to join. The GFDF’s board includes Renate Künast, a senior member of German parliament for the Green party and former federal minister for food, agriculture and consumer protection.
The GFDF was the brainchild of Eva Gronbach, a Berlin-based designer who previously worked for Hermès and Yohji Yamamoto, who will also serve as the body’s first president.
“We were very inspired by the CFDA in New York because it is a younger organization than the Federation in Paris,” says Gronbach, who started the project by simply e-mailing other

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Gabriela Hearst Maps Out Sustainability Vision

LONDON — It might have taken her a while, but designer Gabriela Hearst has crystallized her brand vision. On Thursday morning, she shared her story with members of the British Fashion Council’s Fashion Trust during a talk at Jessica McCormack’s Mayfair Townhouse.
The New York-based designer was also marking the launch of a residency at Matchesfashion.com’s new retail space, 5 Carlos Place, a teaser of the brand’s future store in the British capital, Hearst said.
Alongside her residency at Carlos Place, which will run until Jan. 26, Hearst has also debuted an exclusive capsule for Matches, which added a British accent to signature brand pieces.
“We created a print based on the race of Belmont Park, which is an Ascot race but held outside of New York,” said the designer, pointing to an equestrian print on silk shirts and elegant shirtdresses. “It reminded me of a brooch of a horse I bought from Jessica McCormack, so it’s bringing a bit of that equestrian background into a more traditional, British scenario. I really connected to that print and from then everything naturally fit into place.”
Other looks include corduroy suits and velvet slip dresses, some of which were made from upcycled materials. A range of luxurious

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Canali Men’s Fall 2019

After seasons of unveiling its collections at Milan Fashion Week, Canali made a comeback to Florence with an evening event hosted inside the prestigious Palazzo Antinori. This was a smart move for the brand, as opting for a presentation format managed to openly showcase the high-end quality of its men’s offering. In keeping with current trends, Canali refreshed its tailoring with a relaxed, leisurewear-inspired approach. Graphic urban jackets were crafted from luxury fabrics, while cashmere coats featured sporty details, including detachable nylon hoodies. Corduroy pants were matched with turtlenecks with an artisan feel and country-chic blazers, while the elegant attitude of pin-striped suits was tempered by the narrow coats peppered by macro houndstooth patterns. Cozy alpaca and mohair gave a cozy, warm feel to the overcoats, highlighting the collection’s overall sense of luxurious comfort.

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Fashion Group International Reveals Rising Star Awards Honorees; Tommy Hilfiger to Give Keynote

This year’s finalists for the Fashion Group International Rising Star Awards will have a chance to celebrate with their competitors at a cocktail party at the Tory Sport store on Fifth Avenue Jan. 16.
The main event will be held Jan. 24 at Cipriani 42nd Street with Tommy Hilfiger sharing his wisdom in the keynote address. His wife, Dee Ocleppo Hilfiger, will be on hand to present the Accessories award. Behno’s Shivam Punjya, Bobby Roaché, Genevieve Rose Atelier’s Genevieve Foddy, Jibs Life’s Natalie Kathleen, Lelet NY’s Sara Bieler Sasson and Lutz Morris’ Tina Lutz Morris will be vying for this year’s prize.
In the Fine Jewelry category, Amanda Pearl’s Amanda Pearl Brotman, Emmanuel Tarpin, Foundrae’s Beth Bugdaycay, Misahara Jewelry’s Lepa Galeb-Roskopp and Neha Dani Jewelry’s Neha Dani are the finalists. Alexandra Mor will present to the winner.
Phillip Lim will hand over the Womenswear award. Finalists include Cristina Ottaviano, Haus Von M’s Ludi Wang, Julianna Bass, Land of Distraction’s Danita Short and Christian Juul Nielsen, Laurence & Chico’s Laurence Li and Chico Wang, Sophia Is’ Sophia Tezel-Tzelepis and Victoria Hayes. The winner of this year’s Menswear award will receive that honor from Kerby Jean-Raymond. Don Morphy’s Daniel Mofor, éclectic’s Franck Malègue, Head of State’s

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NHL, Adidas to Create Sustainable Jerseys for All-Star Game

Adidas and the National Hockey League have embraced sustainability for their All-Star Game jerseys.
The game, which will be held on Jan. 26 at the SAP Center in San Jose, Calif., will find players wearing jerseys made from repurposed and upcycled materials for the first time.
The jerseys were created in partnership with Parley for the Oceans and feature Parley Ocean Plastic, a trademarked material created from marine plastic that has been collected from the oceans and then spun into thread.
The special-edition Adizero Authentic Pro x Parley jerseys will be worn first by the players at the 2019 SAP NHL All-Star Skills exhibition on Jan. 25 and then during the Honda NHL All-Star Game on Jan. 26.
“We create products tailored for an athlete, their sport, life and world and we’re excited to introduce the special-edition Adizero Authentic Pro x Parley jerseys,” said Dan Near, senior director of Adidas Hockey, of what he termed “the first-ever environmentally conscious hockey jerseys.”
“The NHL is a recognized leader in addressing major environmental challenges and preserving the roots of our game,” said Brian Jennings, NHL’s chief branding officer and executive vice president. “Adidas has been an incredible partner in our efforts and shares our commitment to promoting sustainable business practices. Each year, the NHL All-Star Weekend serves as an opportunity to showcase innovations across all

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Jo Malone London Releases Limited-Edition Birthstone Fragrance Caps

TOP IT OFF: Jo Malone London is releasing a limited-edition collection of bronze bottle caps with birthstones in partnership with brand ambassador Karen Elson and British jeweler Duffy.
The collaboration, Karen Elson’s Birthstones by Duffy, is a personal project for the pair. Elson has always had an affinity for birthstones. “What I love most is that they seem so charming and precious, and the idea of being able to create something coveted and collectible was really important to me,” she said.
Duffy, who works with vintage jewelry, said the collaboration allowed him to achieve his longtime dream of designing a bottle cap. “I’ve always wanted to make a bottle top, either for a drink or a fragrance. It was a challenge to work with an object I’ve never worked with before. It seemed like a natural pairing as Karen and I had already known each other through family connections,” Duffy said.

Karen Elson with the fragrance. 
Courtesy

The Art Deco-style bottle caps are cast from pure bronze and feature a spiked design with a colored, cubic zirconia stone depending on the month. Duffy said he wanted to keep the design sleek and simple. “The Jo Malone bottle, label and packaging is so iconic on its own, so

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Project Teams With Cool Hunting at New York Show

Cool Hunting, an independent publication that covers design, culture and technology, will host a lounge, create a retail trend program and curate a selection of its favorite items at Project’s upcoming New York trade show.
Among the brands that will be featured are Herman Miller; Sister City hotel, the new hotel from Ace Hotel Group; Arlo Skye luggage; Rhone; Courant, and Troubadour.
In addition, the New York edition will also feature, N:ow at Project, which debuted at the Las Vegas show last August, and offers forums and trend presentations in partnership with WGSN. There will also be installations and daily discussions about the state of the men’s wear industry.
“Coming off of a successful launch of N:ow this summer in Las Vegas, its debut in New York was a natural progression,” said Jason Peskin, men’s brand director for Informa, which owns Project. “N:ow will continue to evolve the traditional trade show and birth a fresh event experience for both brands and attendees in New York with Highsnobiety providing special coverage of it all.”
Among the speakers who will participate at this edition are Mr. Mort’s Mordechai Rubinstein; Highsnobiety’s editor-in-chief Jeff Carvalho; Rowing Blazers founder Jack Carlson, and Moose Knuckles’ creative director Steff Hoff.
“The programming

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Altuzarra Releases Limited-edition Capsule Collection With Friends

Joseph Altuzarra is acknowledging his 10th anniversary in business with a limited-edition capsule collection called “The One That Got Away.”
The pieces were selected by 10 of Altuzarra’s closest friends and collaborators: Carine Roitfeld, Carolina Issa, Cindi Leive, Evan Rachel Wood, Indya Moore, Jenna Lyons, Melanie Huynh, Sarah Rutson, Shu Pei Qin, and Vanessa Traina. Each were asked to select a piece from a past collection they wish they had gotten, but didn’t have the chance to.
The capsule consists of 12 ready-to-wear pieces and three accessories pieces, and will be sold exclusively at Barneys New York, Joyce (Hong Kong), Joseph (London) and Mytheresa.com, as well as on altuzarra.com this month.
Traina selected the Kieran dress (spring 2015) for $ 1,195; Roitfeld chose the Driftwood skirt (fall 2011) for $ 1,590, Issa picked the Bellini gown (spring 2015) for $ 6,950, while Leive chose the Farley dress (fall 2015) for $ 3,295. Wood chose the Acacia blazer and Vespa pant (resort 2014) with blazer at $ 2,995, and the pant at $ 1,190.
In addition, Lyons selected the Acacia blazer (spring 2015) for $ 3,995, Rutson chose the Venice 2 Row sweater (fall 2012) for $ 995, and Qin chose the black stretch wool laced and stitched Toni dress (fall 2010) for $ 2,495.
Moore

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Dita Von Teese to Appear in Jean Paul Gaultier’s ‘Fashion Freak Show’

SHOWSTOPPER: Dita Von Teese will be joining the cast of designer Jean Paul Gaultier’s “Fashion Freak Show,” WWD has learned.
The burlesque star, who already makes a video appearance in the fashion designer’s show at the Folies Bergère cabaret in Paris, will be gracing the cabaret’s stage during a weeklong residency from Jan. 22 to 27 for seven performances.
“Dita Von Teese is the most Parisian of all Americans,” Gaultier told WWD. “I have every admiration for her as she has raised burlesque to the rank of a chic, glamorous and popular art. It is an honor to welcome her to the ‘Fashion Freak Show.’”
It’s not the first time Von Teese has teamed with the couturier. The artist, a friend of Gaultier’s, previously walked in some of the designer’s couture shows.
“It’s an absolute dream to be a part of Jean Paul Gaultier’s show at the Folies Bergère,” said Von Teese in a statement. “Mr. Gaultier has always celebrated diversity on his runways in a genuine and authentic way. His celebratory show captures the essence of who he is as a creator of distinctive and rare beauty.”
The all-singing, all-dancing, costume-filled show at the Folies Bergère opened last September and tells the story of

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Pitti Immagine to Mark 30th Anniversary With Dedicated Stamp

PITTI’S STAMP: Pitti Immagine, the organizer behind the Pitti Uomo men’s wear trade show, is marking its 30th anniversary this year and to celebrate the milestone, Italy’s minister of economic development will issue a dedicated commemorative stamp.
Created by designer Italo Lupi, the stamp bears the black writing “Pitti Immagine 30 Anni [30 Years]” against a gray background and is crossed by colorful lines reminiscent of stitching and seams.
The stamp will be presented at 10:30 a.m. on Tuesday during the inauguration event of the 95th edition of Pitti Uomo — the first day the stamp will be authorized for use. Pitti Uomo will run Jan. 8 to 11.
“Thirty years ago, the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana started using the Pitti Immagine name … We wanted to remember this anniversary with an official event and nothing is more official than a stamp, a paper rectangle treasuring a discreet fascination and aura as something linked to history, even in the era of non-material communication and liquid society,” said Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive officer of Pitti Immagine.
Flanking the issue of the commemorative stamp, Pitti will also mount “The Fashion Mailbox” exhibition, exploring the relationship between fashion and stamps from the 19th century

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Astrid Andersen Men’s Fall 2019

Andersen brought a Copenhagen chill to her collection, which unfolded in the vast outdoor courtyard of Broadgate Plaza, near Liverpool Street station. She certainly came prepared, placing little disposable glove warmers on each chair for guests, and sending out a lineup of cozy knits and plump fur coats — in addition to lots of pinstripes and hand-painted prints.
The designer said she wanted to fuse the idea of streetwear with classical tailoring and luxury fur, as the lines between catwalk and street have blurred beyond recognition.
She worked charcoal pinstripe fabric into karate-style suits, puffers and tracksuit bottoms sealed with reflective tape. Her long, swooshing pinstripe topcoats had a gangster-ish feel to them. That pairing of formal and sporty worked beautifully, although it remains to be seen what bank, law firm or judge will let those outfits through the door.
Andersen worked lots of color into the collection, too, via freeform, hand-painted prints on shirts and hoodies and a terrific lineup of knitwear, including cable-knit leggings for a cold January night, and boxy color-blocked sweaters in rich combinations including corn and mint green.
Color also came in the form of fat, luscious fur coats. They were long and silvery, hip-length and baby blue, or short

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Beckhams Turn Out for Kent & Curwen Show, ‘Peaky Blinders’ Debut

PEAK PERFORMANCE: “We watch ‘Peaky Blinders’ all the time — and dress like that every day,” said Brooklyn Beckham, his bearded face shaded by a charcoal flat cap at the Kent & Curwen show in London on Sunday.
The Beckhams’ eldest son, who was wearing a collarless shirt and peg trousers from the new “Peaky Blinders” collaboration with Kent & Curwen, attended the show with girlfriend Hana Cross, parents David and Victoria Beckham, and BBC TV series’ creator, Steven Knight, among others.
The capsule collection made its debut at the fall 2019 Kent & Curwen show, which took place at Two Temple Place, William Waldorf Astor’s former office and a Victorian gem of a building overlooking the Thames with stained glass windows, wood paneling and Arts and Crafts interiors.
Designed by Kent & Curwen’s creative director Daniel Kearns, the capsule includes flat caps, frock coats, peg trousers and a special rose logo that appears on shirts, tops and knits. He riffed on the look of the actors in “Peaky Blinders,” the hit show that centers on the lives of Twenties street gangsters in Birmingham, England, and the policemen trying to keep them in line.
A beaming David Beckham, who was looking snazzy in a flat cap,

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Peter Dundas Goes Long With D7 Eveningwear Drop

LOS ANGELES — “It’s so funny to see winter coats in L.A.,” mused Peter Dundas as rain fell hours before the Art of Elysium’s Heaven Gala.
“I’ve never seen it before,” he went on to say. “It’s so funny.”
The designer was in the midst of last-minute fittings, stopping to chat with people and checking on the stage ahead of the presentation of his Dundas label’s D7 collection. Models walked down the runway during a presentation Saturday evening as part of the Art of Elysium’s Heaven Gala, held in Koreatown amid a busy evening throughout L.A. in the run-up to Sunday’s Golden Globe Awards.
“It’s such an amazing experience putting a show together here,” Dundas said as he walked from the main gala area to the back of the house, where the pieces were still being unpacked. “When I see brands doing shows in different countries, I think that’s an undertaking with the staff and all that. We’re still in the initial part of the story of our house, but here we are. We’re doing it.”
The Norwegian designer, whose résumé has included time at Roberto Cavalli, Emilio Pucci and Emanuel Ungaro, now oversees his namesake label, which he’s molding to reflect broader changes

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Supreme Court to Weigh In on Offensive Trademarks

The U.S. Supreme Court agreed to hear a new case that will determine if the government can deny trademark protection to words or phrases it deems vulgar. The decision will have far-reaching implications for what should be protected as free speech under the First Amendment.
The case in question, Lancu vs. Brunetti, involves Los Angeles-based clothing brand “FUCT.” Founder Erik Brunetti applied for trademark protection of the name in 2011, but was denied. Attorneys at the United States Patent and Trademark Office nixed his application on the basis that the phrase was “immoral” and “scandalous.”
The USPTO’s Trademark Trial and Appeal Board affirmed the decision, finding that the apparel company displayed “strong, and often explicit, sexual imagery that objectifies women and offers degrading examples of extreme misogyny.”
But the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Federal Circuit reversed the decision.
Now the country’s highest court will have to consider whether the Lanham Act, which governs trademarks in the U.S., is lawful and should be allowed to continue blocking trademark protection to brands it finds offensive.
FUCT could not immediately be reached for comment.

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EXCLUSIVE: Kent & Curwen Teams With ‘Peaky Blinders’ on Capsule

SNEAK PEAKY: Kent & Curwen is hitting the gritty streets of Twenties Birmingham, England, collaborating with the makers of “Peaky Blinders,” the hit BBC TV crime drama, on a capsule collection.
The capsule will make its debut on Sunday during the Kent & Curwen presentation at the grand Two Temple Place, overlooking the Thames, WWD has learned.
David Beckham, an investor in Kent & Curwen and the face of its campaigns, his eldest son Brooklyn and “Peaky Blinders” creator Steven Knight are expected to be at the Kent & Curwen show. The award-wining series, which began airing in 2013, stars Cillian Murphy, Helen McCrory and Paul Anderson, and the next season is due to start in September, just as the collection drops in-store.
Kent & Curwen designer Daniel Kearns has created a three-piece tweed suit, lightweight frock coat, collarless shirts inspired by Twenties styles, peg leg trousers and flat caps. Some styles have printed canvas patches featuring the brand’s rose motif done as a Victorian-era photograph with the writing, “Garrison Tailors by Order of the Peaky Blinders.”
Garrison Tailors is a men’s wear clothing company founded by the show’s creator, Knight. The British-made tailored clothing is inspired by the Peaky Blinders-era costumes.
The story follows police

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London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2019: What to See, Eat and Where to Shop

LONDON — The first weekend in January is never an easy one, but London has the antidote, with a lineup of streetwear and luxury stores and restaurants serving everything from classic British to Taiwanese food, all of which will be open during London Fashion Week Men’s.

London store End. 
Peter Cook

END OF THE LINE: British property group Shaftesbury has expanded its retail portfolio, opening the first London outpost for the online men’s wear store, End. Occupying 9,000 square feet on the corner of Broadwick and Marshall Streets, the two-story glass-fronted space offers a range of collections from labels including Off-White, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Nike and Adidas Consortiums. The store, which already has units in Newcastle, England, and Glasgow, Scotland, features modern furnishings such as marble staircases and glass showcases.
End is part of a strategy by Shaftesbury to position Soho as a go-to destination for emerging brands. The company has been offering reasonable rents in the neighborhood, which is a few minutes’ walk from Oxford and Regent Streets. Shaftesbury has also helped to install Supreme, Palace, Carhartt and Dukes Cupboard, a multibrand retailer, in the neighborhood. Samantha Bain-Mollison, head of retail at Shaftesbury, has been driving the strategy. She describes End as “influential, with a renowned selection of directional and globally sourced men’s wear.” — Hannah Connolly
End
59

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Pamela Golbin Leaves Les Arts Décoratifs

NEXT CHAPTER: After 25 years at Les Arts Décoratifs, Pamela Golbin is ready to turn a new page.
The fashion expert has resigned as chief curator of fashion and textiles, effective Dec. 31, and will pursue other projects. “Having celebrated 25 fulfilling years at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 2019 is all about new beginnings,” she said in an Instagram post on Friday.
During her tenure, Golbin oversaw exhibitions on designers including Dries Van Noten, Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, Madeleine Vionnet, Valentino, Balenciaga and Elsa Schiaparelli.
A fixture at fashion shows and industry events, Golbin has also penned five books excluding exhibition catalogues, the most recent of which was “Couture Confessions: Fashion Legends in Their Own Words,” a series of imagined conversations with leading couturiers that was published by Rizzoli Ex Libris in 2016.

Pamela Golbin 
Dominique Maître

A Franco-Chilean born in Peru, Golbin attended Columbia University in New York and La Sorbonne in Paris. More recently, she completed an executive education program at the Harvard Business School.
She joined Les Arts Décoratifs in 1993 at the age of 23, becoming responsible for one of the three largest public collections of dress and textiles worldwide. In 1997, the museum inaugurated a 16,000-square-foot permanent gallery exhibition space

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Tibi Pre-Fall 2019

News first: Tibi has officially launched men’s. Ssense picked up the smattering of men’s looks that appeared on Amy Smilovic’s spring runway and will be incubating the collection for at least a yearlong exclusive. “We didn’t really know we were tapping into something new in the market,” Smilovic said during a pre-fall preview. “Ssense really believes there’s a whole area missing for soft tailoring. Men’s doesn’t really have any young designer correlation. There’s nothing for a guy who’s like, ‘I want to pay a little more than contemporary and a lot less than designer and I don’t want to be street.’”
In terms of the pre-fall lineup at large, Smilovic focused on lightening things up in terms of attitude, a sense of humor. “We never do a theme, per se, but we were feeling the need to shake things up a bit, keeping on the track of updating classics, and a little bit of not taking yourself so seriously felt right,” she said. “We love suiting and a real urban palette, but we wanted to infuse it with a nature vibe.” Nothing was funny-ha-ha, but there were moments of cheekiness, for example, an oversize women’s suit cinched with a supersized, Eighties-inspired belt

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What to Watch: Royal, Political Influencers Spark Criticism, Affect Fashion With Photo-ops

Like them, love them or despise them, political and royal influencers churn up the Internet nearly instantaneously with every public outing.
Whether stepping out for a diplomatic gala dinner, a schoolyard visit with wide-eyed students or for a hardhat-worthy ribbon cutting ceremony, the powers-that-be dress accordingly, knowing their choices will send sales skyrocketing. Their personal fashion loyalties vary — Germany’s Chancellor Angela Merkel favors pantsuits, beleaguered British Prime Minister Theresa May prefers skirt suits, France’s First Lady Brigitte Macron is all about Louis Vuitton and U.S. First Lady Melania Trump is nonpartisan in terms of designers.
As a sign of their global reach, the newly minted Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle, topped Google’s 10 most-searched people list last year. For her first official tour, with Prince Harry last fall, to Australia, the American-born royal packed plenty of options for the 16-day trip. Occasionally changing twice in one day, the former “Suits” actress wore an assortment of Australian labels, as well as Brandon Maxwell, Jason Wu, Roksanda Ilincic, Stuart Weitzman, Manolo Blahnik, Gucci and Birks.
Before last spring’s royal wedding, it was estimated that the net present value to brands that Markle wears was 150 million pounds, or $ 212.1 million, according to David Haigh,

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What to Watch: Up Next for Fur Industry, Furriers

Last year was a momentous one for designer labels vowing to go fur-free. Michael Kors, Gucci, Burberry and Versace are among the ones that did so. Whether the trend continues into 2019 is a matter up for debate — as is the entire “fur” or “no fur” issue.
Last month, Chanel joined the antifur brigade — although the brand’s use of fur has always been minimal — and also pledged to stop using exotic skins. Before its pre-fall Métiers d’Art show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Chanel said it would “no longer use exotic skins in our future creations.”
The exotic skins in question include crocodile, lizard, snake and stingray. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion and president of Chanel SAS, said, “The future of high-end products will come from the know-how of what our atelier is able to do.”
Michael Kors Inc. — now called Capri Holdings — was one of the leading brands that agreed to go fur-free in 2017 along with Jimmy Choo, which Kors also owns. Kors had been targeted by animal rights activists over the years (most noticeably during a Q&A with the designer in June at the Metropolitan Museum). Versace, Burberry, Maison Margiela, Diane von Furstenberg

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Tooling Around Tokyo for Vintage Treasures

TOKYO — The Japanese capital arguably has some of the best vintage shopping in the world, with stores across the city offering a huge variety of used pieces in excellent condition. Many visitors flock to areas such as Harajuku, Daikanyama and Shimokitazawa to get their fix. But to the west of the city center is an area that is often overlooked: Koenji.
With a location that is just removed enough from the packed streets of Tokyo’s business districts and yet still easily accessible, Koenji has a unique atmosphere that draws people young and old to its web of tiny streets. Old-school bars, Japanese-style pubs and “live houses” (small establishments with live music) mix with cool art galleries, great restaurants, eclectic cafes and, of course, some of the city’s best vintage shopping. It’s one of the few areas — if not the only one — in the city where great deals can still be found, and since many of the stores specialize in very specific eras or aesthetics, the clientele varies widely.
“This is one of the few places where you can live in a fashion style. You can wear the style and then go to a cafe that reflects that style, and

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Puma Inks Multiyear Partnership With Porsche Motorsport

FULL THROTTLE: Puma has inked a multiyear partnership with Porsche Motorsport, marking a high-profile addition to its existing partnerships in F1 and other top motorsport segments.
All 24 drivers from the Porsche Works, Juniors and Young Professionals categories will sport fireproof race wear by the brand, Puma said on Wednesday. This comprises the Formula E team and all factory GT racing activities. The pit crews will sport Puma-designed uniforms, with the Puma logo to also feature on race cars.
“We are proud to be partnering with Porsche Motorsport, one of the most successful racing companies with a rich tradition in motorsport,” said Bjørn Gulden, chief executive officer of Puma, which through its subsidiary Branded Sports Merchandising has also obtained the rights to develop, sell and market a range of replica and fan wear products for Porsche Motorsport, spanning apparel, footwear, headwear, accessories and bags.
 

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Ones to Watch: Courtney Pellow

Determined not to be defeated by New Zealand’s isolation — and before she had even launched her brand — emerging Auckland-based designer Courtney Pellow flew to New York earlier this year to find a showroom. Zannick Studio took her on and she didn’t have to wait long to get noticed.
In September, Gigi Hadid attracted international media attention when she stepped out at Milan Fashion Week in a pair of the designer’s eye-catching patchwork Up-Cycled Sock Pants.
Handmade from faulty wool socks discarded by a New Zealand manufacturer and retailing on Pellow’s web store for 1,196 New Zealand dollars or $ 821 at current exchange, the pants were among several pieces from the designer’s debut collection that were loaned to Hadid’s stylist.
A day later, Hadid was photographed again in another Courtney Pellow style: the White Camo Cropped Jean, a relaxed-fit, mid-rise jean in a camouflage print with contrast denim waistband and patch pockets.
While upcycling accounts for just 20 percent of Pellow’s production, sustainability is front of mind for the Auckland University of Technology graduate, who is using organic cotton in her T-shirts.
Other repurposed products include the Up-Cycled Sock Jumper and a range of Bush Shirts crafted from vintage wool blankets that Pellow sources from

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Virginie Morgon Makes French New Year’s Honors Roll

PARIS — Virginie Morgon, chief executive officer of Paris-based investment firm Eurazeo, was made a Knight of the Legion of Honor, France’s highest civilian decoration, on New Year’s Day.
With a portfolio of roughly 15 billion euros in assets under management, of which 9 billion euros is from third parties, Eurazeo is a shareholder in Moncler, Farfetch, Vestiaire Collective, Nest Fragrances and Pat McGrath Labs, among others.
Others associated with the fashion and retail worlds who were promoted to Knight of the Legion of Honor in the annual list included Jean-Luc Déchery, owner and ceo of leather-goods brand Camille Fournet, and Franck François, founder of hair salon chain Vog.

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Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott Teams Up With Dsquared2 on Capsule

POWER COLLABORATION: Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott are making their debut as fashion designers in collaboration with Dsquared2 founders and creative directors Dean and Dan Caten.
The fashion photographers and the Canadian twin brothers teamed up on a fashion capsule collection, hitting selected stores and the Dsquared2 online shop in February.
As suggested by its name, the Mert and Marcus 1994 x Dsquared2 capsule captures the most iconic spirit of the Nineties, as seen through the filters of the creative crew. Including a range of eye-catching pieces for men and women, the collection is focused on a combination of bold volumes and bright hues and is infused with a hip, underground vibe inspired by the Nineties’ Berlin metropolitan scene where music, art and fashion collided creating a hip, forward-thinking environment.

Mert and Marcus 1994 x Dsquared2 capsule. 
Courtesy Photo

The Mert and Marcus 1994 x Dsquared2 capsule counts a range of overalls, bombers, tank tops, hoodies, oversize T-shirts, asymmetric sheath dresses and boxy tailoring styles, all crafted from a selection of fabrics that are masterfully manipulated to create laminated, paperlike and rubberized effects.
In addition, iconic archival images shot by Alas and Piggott, including pictures of Kate Moss, decorate some of the pieces for a post-punk

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Hubert de Givenchy, George H.W. Bush, Kate Spade, Stan Lee in Their Own Words

Hindsight, foresight, oversight — depending on perspective, all may apply to words spoken by some of the more established cultural figures who died in the past year.
Over the years, WWD sat down with numerous designers, politicians and writers to reveal their ambitions and obstacles alike. Here are a few of the more memorable lines spoken by some who helped to define the world we live in.
Hubert de Givenchy
“Mine is one of the most beautiful professions in fashion: making others happy with an idea.”
“Balenciaga was my religion,” Givenchy said, explaining that he assembled more than 1,000 dresses for the collection of the Spanish designer’s creations. “Since I’m a believer, for me, there’s Balenciaga and the good Lord. Balenciaga had a sense of construction of clothes. He did things that were intelligent, which isn’t the case today. People are interested in glitz.”
“Fashion’s over. There are bags and shoes that are more and more ugly. That’s all. There are perfumes and everyone talks of luxury. But for me, luxury is, in part, to be well-dressed.”
Kate Spade on starting her own company over dinner with her husband in an Upper East Side Mexican restaurant: “Andy said, ‘Why don’t you do handbags? You love handbags,

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Salvatore Ferragamo Pre-Fall 2019

The company’s rich archives, the vivid colors of 16th-century painter Bronzino, whose paintings are on show at the Galleria degli Uffizi in Florence, as well as the effortless sartorial elegance of iconic men, including Mick Jagger and John Kennedy Jr., served as inspiration for the Salvatore Ferragamo women’s and men’s pre-fall collection.
During a walk-through at the company’s Milanese headquarters, women’s creative director Paul Andrew and men’s design director Guillaume Meilland put the focus on the coherent attitude running through the women’s and men’s looks. These actually exuded the same luxurious elegance, revealing the high-end craftsmanship deeply rooted in the brand’s heritage.
Taking a step back from the dark tones of the last few collections, the designers played with a lighter, more lively color palette, including bright green, orange, red and ice gray. Constructions were also softened to welcome a sense of relaxed sophistication. For example, upscale padded coats were crafted from silky fabrics, men’s shearling and leather jackets and women’s suede trenchcoats were cut in clean, lean silhouettes, while chic suits revealed a deconstructed approach.
Knitwear took center stage with precious plissé skirts, dresses showing built-in ties to wrap around the neck and embroidered cashmere sweaters. Archival prints were revamped included the

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Chiara Ferragni Launches Beauty Bites Masterclass

QUEEN MIDAS: Everything Chiara Ferragni touches seems to turn into gold — or even better, into its modern equivalent of likes and followers.
The latest initiative launched by the influencer and entrepreneur behind The Blonde Salad digital platform and the Chiara Ferragni Collection footwear and accessories label is no exception.
Ferragni teamed with her personal makeup artist Manuele Mameli to launch Beauty Bites, a beauty masterclass to be held in Milan’s Teatro Vetra venue on Feb. 9–10.
Sponsored by Lancôme and Sephora, the project will “enable followers to move from virtual to real,” reads the dedicated web site providing information on the special event. Starting from 2.30 pm, the four-hour makeup and hair style masterclass will be divided in two parts: in the first, Mameli will share professional beauty techniques and tips, while the other will involve attendees — including Ferragni herself — trying to replicate the looks.
Mayhem in the social kingdom followed: after the Beauty Bites Instagram account featuring teasers, videos and Ferragni’s key beauty looks reached 44,500 followers in a few days, over 37,000 people queued online on Tuesday to buy the 700 tickets available to the masterclass, with many users giving up once they discovered that beauty — and Ferragni

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John Varvatos Business on a Growth Path as Sale Rumors Silence

NEW YORK — In 2020, John Varvatos will mark a major milestone — the 20th anniversary of showing his first men’s wear collection.
Like any fashion label, Varvatos has experienced his share of ups and downs over the past two decades — ownership changes, painful reductions in staff, department store consolidation and changing shifts in fashion.
But after a couple of years of flux, the John Varvatos business is once again in expansion mode. The brand just entered the Middle East with its first retail store in Dubai and there are others in the wings. New product categories such as accessories, jewelry and swimwear are being added.
Star USA, the more-casual, younger and lower-priced line, has been completely revamped and will be unveiled at the Pitti Uomo show in Florence in January.
The architect steering these changes is Mark Brashear, who joined John Varvatos Enterprises as chief executive officer three years ago. Brashear has a long history in the men’s industry that includes Nordstrom, Façonnable, Hugo Boss and Michael Kors.
He’s also seen as a straight shooter and, as such, doesn’t duck questions regarding the uncertainty that surrounded the brand just two years ago when rumors were rampant that its majority owner, the private equity group, Lion

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Umberto Marzotto Dead at 92

MILAN — Count Umberto Marzotto, heir of the Marzotto textile family, died Friday at age 92, in Lugano, Switzerland. The cause of death was a degenerative illness.
Funerals will be held on Jan. 3 in the Duomo of Valdagno, the Italian town in the Veneto region where the Marzotto company is headquartered.
The son of Gaetano Marzotto Jr., the entrepreneur and philanthropist who built the family-owned company into an international and giant textile and fashion powerhouse in the 1900s, Umberto Marzotto is survived by his second wife, Gemma Gerolimetto, and his four children Matteo, Paola, Vittorio Emanuele and Diamante. Their sister Annalisa, who had cystic fibrosis, died in 1989.
This is the latest death in the Marzotto family, following that of Umberto’s brother Pietro, a former chairman and chief executive officer of the group, last April, and of his first wife Marta, in 2016. His brother Giannino, a former Marzotto chairman, died in 2012.
Umberto Marzotto was a longtime former president of the publicly listed Zignago SpA, a glass maker based in Portrogruaro, in the Veneto region, and part of Zignago Holding, consisting of a diversified portfolio ranging from the production of wine to real estate assets. He was also a member of the Marzotto

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Christopher Bailey, Twiggy Among Fashion Names in Queen’s New Year Honors List

IN THE SPOTLIGHT: Queen Elizabeth II has handed honors to a clutch of names in the arts and fashion worlds as part of her New Year’s Honors List 2019. Honorees will receive their awards at Buckingham Palace at various times over the next few months.
Christopher Bailey is among this year’s honorees. Bailey, who served as Burberry’s president and chief creative officer until March, and who had previously been chief executive officer, will receive a CBE, or Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, for his work at the British brand.
This is Bailey’s second royal accolade: He already holds an MBE, or Master of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, which he received in 2009.
Twiggy has also been recognized by the British monarch. The model and Andy Warhol muse whose pixie cut defined the fashion of the Sixties, will be named Dame Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire.

TWIGGY LEAVING LONDON AIRPORT FOR NEW YORK WHERE SHE WILL DO PHOTOGRAPHIC MODELLING – 20 MARCH, 1967<br />VARIOUS 
REX/Shutterstock

Daphne Selfe, Britain’s oldest working model at 90 years old, is being honored for creating opportunities for older women in the modeling industry. She will receive a British

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The Designers Behind the Chopra-Jonas Wedding, and More

MUMBAI, India — Two high-profile couples, two extravagant Indian weddings, two Instagram-frenzy inducing events — but behind them both, one design duo: Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, who not only created the brides’ opulent wedding outfits, but also the decor of both weddings.

The weddings of Priyanka Chopra and Nick Jonas in Rajasthan and Isha Ambani — the daughter of Mukesh Ambani, one of the world’s richest men and chairman and managing director of the $ 60 billion Reliance Industries — to billionaire Anand Piramal in Mumbai generated a slew of publicity for both couples (so much so that Chopra and Jonas were criticized for the estimated $ 800,000 cost) and attracted social media junkies worldwide who had never followed an Indian wedding before. Part of the fascination was the sheer flamboyance of the events, as well as the celebrity guests and performers — Beyoncé flew in for the Ambani wedding, for example. And Jani and Khosla dressed many of those guests as well, including one in a red tulle mirror sheet dress embellished with tiny mirror pieces and beads and an organza shoulder drape for the sangeet function, and separately a traditional dress in navy blue, with a low-waisted, embroidered multipanel skirt.

But

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Miu Miu Revamps Web Site

NEW NEW: Miu Miu has unveiled its revamped web site, featuring a new, sleek layout and a more dynamic, streamlined navigation system.
The digital platform combines editorial content, campaign images and short videos with a restyled e-commerce offering the brand’s whole range of ready-to-wear collections, footwear, bags, eyewear and fragrances.
In addition, a Miu Miu Club section enables users to dig deeper into the brand’s archives, tracing it back up to the first, spring 1993 collection. In addition to images of the fashion shows, the section also features special projects and all the Miu Miu Women’s Tales short movies, flanked by extra behind-the-scenes content and interviews with the directors and protagonists.

The Miu Miu Club section on the new miumiu.com. 
Courtesy Photo

Unveiled in 17 European countries first, the web site is currently available in five languages: Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. In 2019, the new miumiu.com will consequentially roll out across Asia, North America and the Middle East.

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Home Is Calling for Young Chinese Designers

SHANGHAI — As Champagne glasses clinked and heads of industry assembled at The Woolmark Co.’s gala in October to celebrate 50 years of trade with China, six of the country’s most successful designers presented their capsule collections made with Australian merino wool. During the event, the designers were periodically called for press photos, interviews and business introductions, yet between these obligations, they gravitated back to one another, sharing pats on the back, chats and inside jokes.
Perhaps it isn’t surprising that in the emerging pool of contemporary Chinese designers, there is camaraderie and familiarity among the biggest players. The kinship could also be down to the fact that many of them have studied at the same overseas colleges, shared the same manufacturers and suppliers, and worked in the same studios as their careers advanced.
Although many of these successful young Chinese designers studied their craft overseas — this cohort particularly favoring Central Saint Martins in London, many are now returning home to China to set up or promote their labels as the market in their homeland matures.
There is a mix of reasons why this moment in time offers a unique and exciting opportunity for Chinese designers to return home. As the nation’s economy continues

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Camilla and Marc Pre-Fall 2019

Siblings Camilla Freeman-Topper and Marc Freeman sought to explore the idea of human connection and intimacy for pre-fall. In a positive note, that meant injecting clothes with comfort, through both cozy fabric selection and design. There were silhouettes that cocooned and wrapped the body, like a transparent Lurex knit top and roomy, angora wool windowpane coat with detachable scarf to bundle up in. Sporty zip-up bodysuits and sweaters with a casual element rounded out wardrobe enhancers essential for layering.
A hallmark of the brand is approachable, easy chic, found namely in empowered tailoring. A plaid coat cut on the bias was a striking example of understated luxury for both its contouring effect and easy wear. A velvet herringbone blazer featured strong, accentuated shoulders in a great proposition for power suiting. They played to house codes of harmonious contrasts by offering fluid evening dresses to offset structured tailoring. There was an effortlessness to a billowy sheer red dress with great movement, and playfulness in the fringe framing an hourglass shape to a camel dress.
Freeman-Topper made a point to highlight the brand’s seasonless appeal. “I’ve always said Camilla and Marc is forever,” she said on a call from Australia, adding: “We have pieces

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Miley Cyrus Marries Liam Hemsworth in Vivienne Westwood

Miley Cyrus wore a made-to-order Vivienne Westwood gown for her wedding to Liam Hemsworth this past weekend.
For the private ceremony held at their home in Franklin, Tenn., on Sunday, Cyrus opted for the Long Cocotte, an off-the-shoulder ivory gown from the British designer. The dress is corseted with draping across the bodice, and goes for $ 8,600 at retail.
Despite having a history of donning wacky, out-there outfits — including a silver belt as a top at the 2015 MTV Video Music Awards — the “Younger Now” singer kept her look understated for her wedding (even if it did come from the anti-establishment designer who helped invent the Punk look). In a video posted on Wednesday, Cyrus is seen singing Bruno Mars’ “Uptown Funk” in her dress, wearing spare amounts of jewelry and keeping her hair undone.

pic.twitter.com/iWk9qWTEgx
— Miley Ray Cyrus (@MileyCyrus) December 27, 2018

Cyrus and Hemsworth were first engaged in 2012, but broke things off in 2013. The couple’s on-again, off-again relationship officially resumed in 2015, and by 2016, Cyrus was rumored to be having dinner with the Australian actor’s family on a regular basis. During an appearance on “The Ellen DeGeneres Show” in October of that same year, DeGeneres asked about

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Selfridges Notches More Than 4 Million Pounds in Early Hours of Boxing Day Sale

LONDON — Footfall may have been down on Boxing Day, which marks the start of the winter sales in Britain, but for Selfridges, the pickings were rich.
The store, known for its bright yellow branding, said following a strong pre-Christmas trading period, it took in more than 4 million pounds in the first hours of the Boxing Day sale, which began Tuesday night online and Wednesday morning in-store.
Selfridges said it has already seen a 6 percent uplift on last year, and added that Boxing Day 2018 is on track to remain the retailer’s biggest trading day of the year. Selfridges doesn’t close until 9 p.m. local time, so final numbers are still unavailable.
The company said shoppers began arriving outside the Oxford Street store at 2:30 a.m. on Boxing Day, the day after Christmas, when estate owners and employers in Britain traditionally gave gifts to their employees. The store said it expected to see around 120,000 customers between 9 a.m. and 9 p.m. on Wednesday.
Selfridges.com has seen the highest number of site visits to date, with 1.5 million customers visiting the site since Tuesday night, with “high double-digit growth” online compared with last year, it said.
So far the highest-performing departments have been women’s

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What’s Next for Calvin Klein Following Raf Simons Split?

The much ballyhooed Calvin Klein-Raf Simons marriage has ended in divorce — and now observers wonder what’s next for the iconic American fashion brand, and whether it can flourish without the “halo” of a designer collection.
As reported, the tie-up between Klein and Simons came to an abrupt — but not unexpected — end Friday night when Calvin Klein Inc. sent out a terse press release at 6:17 p.m., right before the Christmas holiday weekend, stating the company and Simons, who was chief creative officer, had “amicably decided to part ways.” The statement said that Klein has decided on a new brand direction which differs from Simons’ creative vision — but provided no details on what that new direction is.
Calvin Klein will not be having a fashion show during New York Fashion Week in February (it had been scheduled for Feb. 12 at 8 p.m.), and the company will now have to figure out how to move forward after the pricey, multimillion dollar experiment with Simons went bust after a mere 28 months, and eight months before the end of a three-year deal with the Belgian designer.
PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, invested between $ 60 million and $ 70 million in

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La Prestic Ouiston Expands With Plans for Store in Paris

A NEW FLAME: Rounding out a globetrotting tour of pop-up stores, La Prestic Ouiston is opening its first boutique in the Saint Germain district of Paris and launching an e-commerce site at the start of next year.
Nearly a decade old, the upscale Parisian label best known for original prints and fluid silhouettes, has recently experienced a surge of interest abroad, where it is sold in places including Fivestory in New York, Ron Herman in Los Angeles and Japan, Hanwha Galleria in Seoul, and soon on Matchesfashion.com.
For the label’s designer Laurence Mahéo, opening a Paris store will offer the chance to return to her design roots with one-off items. Self-taught, the designer was exposed to textiles growing up—her grandparents ran a high-end fabric store in France—and, as an adult, started selling clothing at Le Bon Marché in small batches of one-off pieces. Mahéo branched out into collections at the suggestion of the Left Bank institution’s Régine Bérault.
“I didn’t realize I was building a brand—I was making clothing,” recalled Mahéo.
“I still have a hard time realizing that it has become a French label with a certain notoriety…I feel like I have spent 10 years working like crazy and, suddenly, lifting my head

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Young Royals Join Queen at Sandringham for Christmas Day Service

FAMILY SPIRIT: Royals young and old came out in force for the Christmas Day church service at St. Magdalene’s church near Queen Elizabeth’s country estate in Sandringham, England.
This was Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle’s, first Christmas as the wife of Prince Harry.
She arrived wearing a Victoria Beckham navy coat and midi knit dress, showing off her baby bump. She paired it with a feathered hat and a modernist, structured clutch bag, also designed by Beckham.
The Duchess of Cambridge – who walked beside the newly married couple with Prince William – wore a more classic burgundy coat by British designer Catherine Walker, with a matching headband and Jimmy Choo pointed-toe pumps.
Princess Beatrice and Princess Eugenie, the latter with her new husband Jack Brooksbank, were also among the churchgoers.
They greeted members of the public, who also attended, and shared holiday wishes.
The Duchess of Cornwall and Prince Philip didn’t attend. Both are fighting a winter cold.
As per tradition, the royal family had a black tie dinner on Christmas Eve, where they exchanged presents. They will also get together for Christmas lunch at Sandringham, the Queen’s country estate in Norfolk.

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L.A. Knitwear Label Replica Ramps Up With Nostalgia

As nostalgia continues to drive designers to mine their pasts for inspiration, L.A.-based knitwear label Replica Los Angeles is gaining traction in the market for its throwback motifs. Angeleno Nathalie Saphier, who spent 15 years in Paris designing for Sonia Rykiel, Christophe Lemaire, Eric Bergère, Gaspard Yurkievich and Isabel Marant, decided to venture out on her own after another decade of styling for magazines and celebrities such as Amber Heard and Serena Williams and consulting for L.A. brands ranging from Lucky Brand to Equipment, A.L.C. and Raquel Allegra.

Nathalie Saphier 
Courtesy image

“When I lived in Paris, I was constantly trying to piece together looks based on my youth—I grew up on David Bowie and punk rock, and designers like Terry de Havilland and Peter Max have always been big inspirations,” Saphier said. “Replica has become a billboard for all the things that shaped me in the Seventies, Eighties and Nineties. I’m replicating in a way, my ideal wardrobe when I was a teenager.”
As megabrands such as Gucci popularize logo and graphic knits, Saphier decided to pay homage to Bowie, Iggy Pop and Pop Art at a more accessible price point—$ 180 to $ 500 retail for cashmere and cotton blends. “I’m not a knitwear

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Men’s Wear Brand Fisher + Baker Targets Women for Minneapolis Event

Fisher + Baker is a men’s brand, but that didn’t stop the company from targeting women for an event at its Minneapolis headquarters earlier this month.
More than 80 women showed up at the Fisher + Baker studio for a Sip and Shop event, its first initiative targeted to females.
The event also served as a fund-raiser for Minnesota Wild’s Jason Zucker’s #Give16 Campaign, which was created by Zucker and his wife, Carly, to build the Zucker Family Suite and Broadcast Studio at the University of Minnesota Masonic Children’s Hospital.
Fisher + Baker donated $ 2,500 to the campaign from the event.
“Women are powerful consumers and are influential in the brand and style decisions of the men in their lives,” said Mike Arbeiter, Fisher + Baker’s chief executive officer and president. “By targeting female consumers as part of our brand engagement strategy, we are building awareness with a community that has a strong influence on men’s wardrobes.”
At the event, the women browsed through the brand’s classic styles of outerwear, sweaters and shirts while enjoying wine and cheese. Among the most popular items was the Lexington Vest, which retails for $ 298.
Arbeiter said the Sip and Shop event “was intended as a pilot concept that if

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Warm RTW Pre-Fall 2019

“In summer, everyone’s tan. Everyone feels thinner even if they’re not…maybe it’s just the tan…but for me, I make happy clothes and clothes that try to make you feel happy and like you’re on vacation while grinding it out in the city,” Warm designer Winnie Beattie mused. The designer used knowledge from her own store, customer requests of buy-now warm-weather pieces, combined with requests from her buyers for transitional pieces that can still sit on the floor come early fall, as well. Envisioning those warm summer nights, Beattie designed a lovely collection to appease both.
There were easy printed voile dresses — floral mumus, geode minis — or washed silk jumpsuits with pussy bows and rompers fit for Beattie’s clambake nights in Amagansett, N.Y., that also stayed true to her unwavering versatility. Throw on one of her washed macro-floral printed silk or striped cotton dresses with a pair of Manolos for a summer wedding or dirty Chucks for running around, either worked wonderfully. Plaid “rainbow” cover-ups — a matching surf poncho and trouser — took the place of summer sweaters (because sweaters in the summer is “like admitting it’s cold, which is a horrible, sad thing,” Beattie quipped) made a stellar addition to the

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Melania Trump’s Stylist to be Honored by City Officials in French Hometown

As the year comes to a close, First Lady Melania Trump’s designer choices have been the focus of plenty of listicles.
Soon her stylist of choice, Hervé Pierre, will be in the spotlight in his hometown. Pierre’s holiday celebrations will be extended Wednesday in Sancerre, France, where he will receive the keys to the city.
“I’m so touched because everyone is working in the wine industry or in the goat cheese industry. Sancerre is located on top of a hill, which is where all the vineyards are. And at the bottom of the hill you have Chavignol goat cheese, which is the most delicious and expensive one in the world — for people who like goat cheese.” he said. “It was not so easy as a kid to do fashion in that environment.”
“The good news was that they knew what I wanted to do. You have a lot of parents who look at their teenagers and say, ‘What are we going to do with that one?’ That was not the case with my parents. I knew exactly what I wanted to do — which university, which school. It was actually a very straight line. There were no surprises,” he said.
Although his father

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House of Harlow 1960 x Revolve Looks to Swim for Expansion

DEEPER WATERS: Nicole Richie’s House of Harlow label continues to broaden its assortment, now looking to swim for its next move.
The business, in conjunction with retailer Revolve, has launched a collection of swimwear and ready-to-wear under the House of Harlow 1960 x Revolve label. It’s the first drop, totaling some 16 pieces, of several planned for rollout across January, February, April and May.
“Swim is a strong category for Revolve definitely with the top three peak months, so it just made sense for the progression of the brand,” Richie said. “We, last resort, came out with great footwear styles so this is more about completing that story.”
The range is priced from $ 68 to $ 198 and is being sold exclusively through Revolve.
The assortment is in keeping with the design aesthetic Richie’s built House of Harlow on, with neutral colors in addition to knot detailing, stripes and crochet.
“It’s still very House of Harlow, really beautiful cover-ups to go with the swimwear so that it can transition into ready-to-wear,” Richie said.
Teaming with Revolve has helped on the back end in terms of designing House of Harlow for the market, Richie said. She cited the multibrand e-commerce company’s access to consumer data as an example

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Raf Simons and Calvin Klein Part Ways

Calvin Klein Inc. and Raf Simons said Friday night that Simons is leaving his post as chief creative officer.
Both parties have amicably decided to part ways after Klein decided on a new brand direction which differs from Simons’ creative vision.
Calvin Klein will not show during New York Fashion Week in February.
The news confirms WWD reports of growing tension between Calvin Klein executives and Simons.
According to sources, the company decided in September to reduce some of Simons’ responsibilities and wanted him to agree to a new contract with fewer responsibilities. Sources said Klein decided certain areas of the business such as store design, visual merchandising, e-commerce, public relations and communications, and corporate social responsibility would report to Marie Gulin-Merle, chief marketing officer, rather than Simons, who had been given total responsibility for all creative areas when he joined in August 2016.
In late November, Emanuel Chirico, chairman and chief executive officer of PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, said in rather blunt terms on the company’s earnings call that the reimagined Calvin Klein — under Simons’ direction — is not working. He said the collection, renamed 205W39NYC, needed to become more commercial and that investments in the collection and advertising would be

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Etienne Russo Held in Japan on Suspicion of Marijuana Smuggling

TOKYO — Fashion-show producer Etienne Russo was indicted in Japan on Friday on charges of cannabis smuggling after being arrested weeks prior, according to reports by Japanese media.
Customs officials at Narita Airport outside of Tokyo are said to have found a liquid that they believe was extracted from cannabis, packed in Russo’s luggage. The founder of Villa Eugénie entered the country on Nov. 30 for the Dior men’s pre-fall fashion show that was held in Tokyo. He is said to have been seen at the show, but has been in custody since early December.
Russo and his event production firm Villa Eugénie are popular among luxury brands, having worked on shows not only for Dior but also for brands including Hermes, Thom Browne and Dries Van Noten. He makes a brief appearance in the new Netfilx series “7 Days Out” documenting preparations for a Chanel couture show.

Japan has very strict drug control laws, with zero tolerance and tough penalties for offenders. Use and possession of cannabis is punishable by up to five years’ imprisonment and a fine, whereas cultivation, sale and transport are punishable by up to 7 to 10 years in prison and a fine.
Russo will be held

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Dolce, Gabbana Cleared of Tax Evasion at Fiscal Level

TAX BREAK: Despite their recent scandal in China, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have reason to celebrate the holidays: The designers have been cleared of tax evasion charges also at a fiscal level.
While Dolce and Gabbana were acquitted in 2014 at a penal level at the end of seven years of legal troubles — which included an acquittal from charges of fraud from a judge at the preliminary hearing level in 2011, a reversal at a higher court, new charges of tax evasion and two trials at lower court — fiscally in Italy the issue was not resolved and meant they could be hit by a fine by the tax commission. Case in point, in March 2013, Italy’s tax commission fined the designers 343.4 million euros, plus interest.
The fine by the tax commission is separate from the tax evasion trials, but both stem from the same accusations put forward by Italy’s Internal Revenue Agency of omitted and unfaithful earnings declarations.
The designers were charged with alleged tax evasion totaling 416 million euros related to the 2004 sale of the Dolce & Gabbana and D&G brands to the designers’ Luxembourg-based holding company, Gado Srl. The Italian tax police reportedly considered Gado essentially a

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Men’s Brands Breathe New Life Onto Bleecker Street

Bleecker Street has become a magnet for men’s wear.
The once-red hot stretch of the West Village stumbled badly over the past few years as nationally known names such as Marc Jacobs, Brunello Cucinelli and Ralph Lauren exited in the face of escalating rents and declining sales.
In fact, at its lowest point last year, there was a 25 percent vacancy rate for all of Bleecker from the East to West Villages, according to Chelsea Mullen, marketing director of the Skylight Group, which has been working to revitalize the street.
Joel Isaacs, founder and president of Isaacs and Co., a key real estate broker for the area, said a primary reason for the “revival” on Bleecker is that “rents have corrected and have gone from $ 600 a square foot to around $ 200.”
But it’s more than just rent that draws people to Bleecker. He said despite the empty storefronts, the street retains its charm and beauty. Residents of the area are very affluent, he said, and everyone — New Yorkers and visitors alike — like to stroll the street.
Slowly and without a lot of fanfare over the last year, many of those vacant storefronts have found new life as independent men’s brands — many of

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Garment District Rezoning Goes Forward With City Council Approval

It’s official — the New York City Council has approved rezoning of Manhattan’s Garment District.
After decades of wrangling and dispute among city officials, landlords, designers and long-term tenants — the sometimes warring parties have come to a truce. Thursday’s landmark vote frees up parameters that were put in place in 1987. Since that time under Mayor Ed Koch’s administration, which established the district, landlords in Manhattan’s Garment District have been required to add a square foot of garment space for every square foot removed for some other use.
Garment District loyalists lobbied for a building earmarked for garment manufacturing, a tax-incentive program to enlist more owners and to provide tools to upgrade the industry and train workers for long-term survival of the garment center’s nucleus. Community Boards Four and Five, Pratt Center for Community Development, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the Design Trust for Public Space and The Municipal Art Society, have been pushing for Garment Center preservation.
The city’s Economic Development Corp. and the Garment District Alliance Business Improvement District, which more or less covers the area bordered by 35th to 41st Streets and Fifth to Ninth Avenues, have been behind the rezoning, which they feel would benefit the

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Richemont Joins Alibaba’s Anti-Counterfeit Alliance

FIGHTING THE FAKERS: Compagnie Financière Richemont has become the latest international corporation to join Alibaba’s Anti-Counterfeiting Alliance, which aims to protect intellectual property rights on the e-commerce giant’s platforms.
Alibaba said this week that Richemont is now among 115 members from 16 countries and regions that are part of the AACA. Richemont said it would share its technology, expertise and other information to support the Alliance’s efforts.
Richemont has long been an anti-counterfeit crusader, with a robust in-house legal team that has gone after watch and jewelry counterfeiters and the sales platforms that sell their goods.
Richemont, New Balance, General Motors and McDonald’s, are the latest global brands to join the AACA, according to Alibaba. The alliance’s membership has more than tripled from the original 30 founding brands at its launch in 2017.
Alibaba said it works with brand partners to find and eliminate fakes at their source. In the luxury sector, Alibaba and Louis Vuitton — one of the first members of AACA — conducted an offline investigation that resulted in the seizure in May of approximately $ 14.4 million worth of counterfeit goods.
“The protection of intellectual property rights requires all stakeholders to work closely together and share their expertise. The AACA will continue its efforts to establish

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Alice + Olivia Pre-Fall 2019

Designer Stacey Bendet is all about emotional clothing. It’s what drives her design process, which has undertones of female empowerment. It also drove a new direction in the look book shoot to mirror videos she’s made recently that bring her clothes to life. She shot against a black backdrop to allow the clothes to really pop. Her theme for the season, after all, was a blend of pop art, Twiggy and the swinging Sixties, but brought into modern day with her signature thread of eclectic confidence.
The mixed prints here were the most striking, and ranged from a rainbow of snake prints on an accordion pleat dress to a wicked mash-up of florals, animal prints, mod checks and stripes in an easy wrap gown. She extracted the florals to create a burnout fabric, which she pieced together into a flowy colorful dress. She highlighted colorblocking elsewhere with a great tailored plaid trench and matching miniskirt.
The collection maintained an energetic tone that worked for a number occasions. A lightweight black-and-white plaid coat for day, sexy snakeskin burnout separates and saturated monochromatic looks for the office, or a patchwork denim jacket that read “love more” and “game changer” to keep it cool while

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Etnies, Emerica Founder Keeps Tight Grip on Independence

LAKE FOREST, CALIF. — Sole Technology’s always been one of those quiet anomalies — an action sports conglomerate of sorts without being corporate.
It’s largely to do with founder Pierre-André Senizergues, the pro skater who built a multibrand portfolio of skate and snow brands based around technology and fostering a sense of community. Senizergues, for nearly three decades now, has steered the Sole Tech ship, which includes the etnies, éS, Emerica, Altamont and ThirtyTwo brands with e-commerce retailers ranging from Amazon and Zappos to big boxes such as PacSun and core shops in the vein of Active Ride Shop and Jack’s Surfboards. Etnies alone counts more than 2,000 retailers globally.
Senizergues’ latest milestone, though, isn’t so much around the product as it is the sport rooted in his business. The company earlier this month celebrated the 15-year anniversary of the etnies Skatepark of Lake Forest, an example of a successful public-private partnership between Sole Technology and the city. About 2,000 people came out for the one-day celebration.
“Our brand has been more an inclusive type of brand. That’s why we created this skatepark,” Senizergues said. “We started the skatepark 20 years ago, but it took five years to make it. The idea was for

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Ones to Watch: Maggie Marilyn

Determined to be a business that is on board with the New Zealand government’s plan to be a carbon-zero country by 2050, Maggie Marilyn is trying to do its part on a variety of levels. The company’s namesake said, “As a proudly New Zealand-made business, we are acutely aware that our location means shipping materials further because of our geographical isolation. We are now starting our journey to learn, understand and, therefore, be able to calculate our carbon footprint. It is our goal to reduce this as much as possible and have engaged outside experts to enable us to carry out this goal.”
Key sustainability achievement of 2018: It has been a really exciting second year in business for Maggie Marilyn. We have just converted all of our dispatch plastic packaging to organic compostable packaging sourced from a local New Zealand company. This packaging is made from cassava root. It doesn’t produce harmful or long-lasting microplastic particles or leave any chemical trace elements following degradation in the soil, rivers, sea or air. We have also for the past four months been writing our sustainability strategy to align with the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals.
Sustainability target for 2019 : As a company,

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120% Lino Eyes International Growth With Made in Italy Fund

MILAN — Italian label 120% Lino, which is focused on the production of men’s and women’s collections crafted from linen, is going through a re-branding phase aimed at boosting the company’s international business.
Founded in the Eighties by Italian entrepreneur Alberto Peretto, 120% Lino was acquired this fall by private equity Made in Italy Fund, which holds 70 percent of the brand. The remaining 30 percent is still in the hands of Peretto, who also oversees the label’s creative team.
“We decided to acquire 120% Lino because we were intrigued by the fact that it is deeply focused on a single material,” said 120% Lino chief executive officer Mauro Grange, who is among the partners of Made in Italy Fund, a private equity controlled by Q Group and Pambianco. “We also appreciated that the brand was already well-positioned on the international markets with its own retail network.”
Distributed in the affordable luxury segment, 120% Lino already operates two stores in Milan and five stores in Florida. “In the U.S., which accounts for 40 percent of the company’s business, the brand is extremely well-positioned and its perception is very high.”
According to Grange, the U.S. will continue to be a point of reference for the brand, which expects

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Sears Details $443M in Expenses to Close 142 Stores

Sears Holdings Corp. detailed the hefty cost of closing 142 stores in a regulatory filing Tuesday. The store closures were revealed on Oct. 15 when the company filed its voluntary Chapter 11 petition for bankruptcy court protection.
Sears said it expects to “incur charges of $ 443 million” in total costs to shutter the stores. That includes $ 81 million in markdowns, $ 9 million in severance costs, $ 335 million in lease termination costs, $ 12 million in other charges and $ 6 million in depreciation in the third and fourth quarters.
Since the bankruptcy filing, Sears has tagged an additional 40 doors for closure.
The retailer, which operates under the Sears and Kmart nameplates, is trying to find a buyer for the company as a going concern. So far its chairman Edward S. Lampert, through his hedge fund ESL Investments, has offered a nonbinding bid of $ 4.6 billion for the assets. If accepted, that offer would in effect constitute Sears’s exit plan from bankruptcy. It is not clear any other party will submit a going-concern offer for the company. Liquidators are expected to submit offers, but those are geared toward winding the business down.

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Converse Extends Partnership With Vince Staples

Vince Staples wanted to do something different.
Although he’s known for wearing Chuck Taylors, the 25-year-old artist from Long Beach, Calif., wanted to update a lesser-known silhouette from the Converse archives: the Thunderbolt, a sneaker that pulls from the brand’s history with running sneakers, which dates back to the 1900s.
“You have the Chuck and the One Star and it was just time to work with a shoe that a lot of people aren’t designing for the brand,” said Staples. “Me being the kind of person I am, I wanted to see what I could do with another silhouette.”
Staples worked with Converse designer Brook Bergland and team on the collection. The sneaker, which comes in a cream and black colorway that Staples said originated from the demo sneaker and they decided to keep it. It retails for $ 110. He also worked on an apparel capsule that includes a varsity jacket, a sweatshirt and track pants — each covered with “Run.” The line retails from $ 350 to $ 90.
“Vince has a very distinct point of view — he sits outside of the traditional definitions one might try to apply to him,” said Jimmy Manley, senior director of special projects at Converse. “He took a

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Exhibitors, Buyers Talk Conscious Consumption at Blossom Première Vision

PARIS — Conscious consumption was top of mind for a number of designers visiting the recent Blossom Première Vision trade show here, exhibiting fabrics for the spring 2020 season. Mills from Hermès-owned silk specialist Bucol to Scottish cashmere producer Alex Begg said they were increasingly adapting to a circular economy model.
“The movement is in motion. There’s still a long way to go but it’s already a mega trend,” said Chantal Malingrey, director of Blossom Première Vision, adding that the sustainability commitments of heavyweights like Kering and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is speeding the industry’s transformation.
Presenting an edited selection of high-end weavers, tanners and accessory manufacturers, the show, held at the Carreau du Temple here on Dec. 12 and 13, logged a 20 percent rise in attendees versus the equivalent year-ago edition. The lion’s share of visitors, or 81.5 percent, came from leading French fashion houses, according to a statement from the show, with the remaining 18.5 percent based at international brands. Following France, Italy had the second largest number of visitors, with attendance up by 50 percent year-on-year.
“If I can order fewer skins for my production, it’s better,” said Mathilde Possoz, head of design at Ellery, who was visiting the booth

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Rebag Opens First Mall Store in Downtown Manhattan

Luxury handbag resale firm Rebag has opened its fifth store in the Oculus at Westfield World Trade Center mall.
The store in downtown Manhattan at 185 Greenwich Street represents the handbag firm’s first mall location. It is also its third New York City site. Two other stores were opened earlier this year on the West Coast in Los Angeles, one in Beverly Hills and the other in Melrose Place. The Madison Avenue store in midtown Manhattan opened earlier this year, as well. The first store in SoHo was opened last fall as a pop-up, then was converted to a permanent location, also earlier this year.
Rebag’s neighbors in the Westfield center mall include Dior Beauty, Breitling, mattress firm Casper and the Apple Store. The store features Rebag’s signature Rebag Bar, where consumers can check in with their handbags and get an estimate on their value. Also a feature in the store is the company’s Hermès Birkin Wall, which shows all available Birkin bags at the store.
Following the opening at Oculus, Rebag will start exploring growth and traffic at U.S. mall sites.
Charles Gorra, founder and chief executive officer of Rebag, said of his firm’s goal of opening up more mall locations: “We found

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Nanushka Pre-Fall 2019

“Effortless femininity that reflects the brand’s signature, modern nomadic aesthetic infused by Seventies interior design inspiration. I’m really attracted to the Seventies interiors and also the Seventies architecture,” Budapest-based Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor said of her vast pre-fall collection, pointing to Spanish architect Ricardo Bofill and Mexican artist Javier Senosiain. The collection leaned more Bofill than Senosiain with clean lines and an earth tone palette but the largest inspiration came from Seventies-inspired interiors and upholstery. For instance, velvet puffed bags and vegan leather garments such as a quilted, updated version of its Hude puffer jacket embodied a comfortable yet clean upholstery. Prints were also inspired by vintage duvets: a washed floral tank top and underlayer set or new snake print on a button-up shirt and skirt combination and updated puffer jacket.
The nomadic aesthetic — “the essence of the Nanushka philosophy” — that is rooted in the brand’s Hungarian roots flowed through in relaxed, elongated silhouettes such as long sweaters piled over skirts or daydresses with Western hints on their pockets and collars. Sandor also used tonal, fabric covered rope and tie-techniques to emphasize the female figure. There were wrapped silk dresses as well as front-tie napa leather offerings. Accessories included a

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Olivier Theyskens to Stage Exhibition at Calais Lace Museum

FOR THE LOVE OF LACE: Belgian fashion designer Olivier Theyskens is the latest fashion name to hold an exhibition at the Museum of Lace and Fashion in Calais, in the North of France.
Following designers Hubert de Givenchy, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Iris van Herpen, Theyskens’ exhibition marks the 10th anniversary of the cultural institution, which was created in 2009 to celebrate the region’s heritage of lace manufacturing.
Named “In Praesentia,” it will run from June 15, 2019 to Jan. 13, 2020.
The Belgian designer was given complete “carte blanche” for the exhibition, for which he delved into the museum’s historical textile collections and picked out unique pieces to build a dialogue with his own creations.
Curated by fashion historian Lydia Kamitsis, “In Praesentia” is voluntarily non-chronological, focusing instead on shared details, colors and textures between Theyskens’ silhouettes and the museum’s archives.
After studying at Brussels-based fashion school La Cambre, Theyskens launched his label in 1997. He went on to join Rochas in 2002, before becoming creative director at Nina Ricci from 2006 to 2009 and at Theory from 2010 to 2015. In 2016, he returned to Paris fashion week with his namesake brand.
It’s the designer’s second exhibition: the first, a retrospective of his 20-year career,

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Ralph Lauren Taps Emmy Rossum, Cameron Dallas, Influencers for Holiday

Ralph Lauren teamed up with a host of influencers for its latest holiday shopping campaign, tapping Emmy Rossum, Cameron Dallas, Iman, Taylor Hill, Olivia Palermo, Johannes Huebl the Shibutani siblings Alex and Maia to curated their own holiday shopping lists. The campaign then kicked off at the brand’s Beverly Hills flagship with a party Thursday night hosted by Rachel Zoe and Nate Berkus. Other guests included Kelly Sawyer, Elizabeth Chambers, Caroline Vreeland, Candice Nelson and David Lauren.
“They asked me to host along with Nate and to work on a gift guide for them, which of course was not hard at all since we are such a Ralph family and always have been,” said Zoe of the campaign, which she shot in Central Park. “It’s fun to help people navigate shopping. Men are the most challenging to buy for because they are so particular about what they want or don’t want but a guy is always happy to see a Ralph Lauren shopping bag. You can’t go wrong with a big Navajo cardigan or a shearling bomber. Or a holiday scented candle.”
Said Berkus, “I always appreciate giving and receiving things of quality that won’t go out of style,

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Balenciaga Opens Flagship on Milan’s Via Montenapoleone

Bare industrial interiors contrast with wildly colorful fabric furnishings in Balenciaga’s new flagship in Milan, opening on Friday.
The two-level store on Via Montenapoleone comes with industrial lights, exposed pipes, cables and conveyor rails, in line with the warehouse-inspired concept unveiled at its Paris flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré last year.
Selling women’s and men’s collections, it sits near Buccellati, Baldinini and Swatch, and opposite Alberta Ferretti and Malo. French luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns Balenciaga, operates several stores on the luxury thoroughfare, including Gucci and Pomellato.
The ground floor features a gray logo-embossed carpet, aluminum walls and glass display cases for accessories, creating a range of tonal variations on gray. On the first floor, a carpet by artist Cayetano Ferrer, featuring repurposed prints from closed American casinos, provides an unexpected burst of color.
Though the store might present an almost uniform appearance, the brand noted that each wall and shelving unit is different, creating textural depth.
Creative director Demna Gvasalia has championed a lo-fi aesthetic at the brand, including an e-commerce site featuring a bare-bones menu inspired by an Excel spreadsheet.
The French luxury house will open a store at 610-620 Madison Avenue in spring 2019. The 7,300-square-foot store includes the space that until relatively recently

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Alexander McQueen Missing From Paris Men’s Week

SHOW BUSINESS: Big acts missing from the official schedule of Paris Men’s Week in January will include Alexander McQueen. The house plans to switch to a series of intimate events as its new presentation format, WWD has learned. The first will take place in London in May for the fall 2019 season. “Intrinsically connected to the bespoke tailoring heritage of Alexander McQueen men’s wear, these events will be central to the evolution of the house’s commitment to the championing of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation,” the brand said. The house moved to showing in Paris in June 2017 after having shown by appointment in Milan and London in previous seasons.
As expected, Lanvin, which recently parted ways with its men’s creative director Lucas Ossendrijver, is also missing from the lineup, according to the Chambre Syndicale which released its provisional schedule for the week on Friday.
Maison Margiela will also sit out the Paris men’s shows this season as it undergoes a strategic review under chief executive officer Riccardo Bellini, who joined the company in March. The house is believed to be aligning its men’s ready-to-wear collection more closely with its women’s line and Artisanal couture collection. Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano oversees

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Gucci to Host Event During January’s Fashion Week in Milan

MILAN — Gucci will cap off the upcoming Men’s Fashion Week in January with a performance event here.
As Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana president Carlo Capasa revealed during a press conference on Wednesday presenting the schedule of the city’s upcoming fashion week, the fashion label — which will return to Milan in February with a coed show after it decamped to Paris last September for one season — will host the “Motus presents MDLSX with Silvia Calderoni” performance event at its Gucci hub headquarters on Jan. 14. The performance, which will be produced by independent theater company Motus and directed by Enrico Casagrande and Daniela Nicolò, will blend a monologue by Calderoni and video projections exploring the notion of gender identity in a play inspired by the 2003 novel “Middlesex” by American writer Jeffrey Eugenides. Capasa dubbed the event “not to be missed,” noting how important it is for Gucci to be part of the official schedule.
Men’s Fashion Week will run Jan. 11 to 14 and while, as reported, the Giorgio Armani brand is the latest to join the likes of Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Salvatore Ferragamo to skip the January shows to host a coed runway event in February, Emporio Armani

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EXCLUSIVE: Natalia Vodianova and LuisaViaRoma Throw Fabulous Fund Fair in London

Natalia Vodianova’s Naked Heart Foundation has teamed with online luxury fashion web site LuisaViaRoma for her latest installment of the annual Fund Fair.
Slated to take place in London at Roundhouse on Feb. 18, the event takes inspiration from filmmaker Federico Fellini’s “La Dolce Vita,” for its fifth year in the U.K. — and sixth overall.
The Fellini theme will be represented through an over-the-top set design at the English theater — complete with a Trevi Fountain. Guests, who in the past have included Hailey Baldwin and Taylor Swift, will try their hand at classic fair games like Hook-a-duck and bowling. Participating brands Louis Vuitton, Celine, Givenchy, Dior and more will have prizes on hand for the winners. There will additionally be live entertainment from Warner Music Group at the event.
Vodianova launched her foundation Naked Heart in 2004; since then, she has raised more than 40 million euros across the United States, U.K., Russia and France. The organization aims to support children with physical, mental and sensory disabilities through the initiation and support of various projects. Over the years, the Naked Heart Foundation has financed 18 projects across seven Russian cities, including a Family Support Centre in Nizhny Novgorod and summer and

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Criticized for Charms That Evoke Blackface, Prada Says It ‘Abhors Racist Imagery’

Facing online accusations that animal-like figurines and charms in its stores and windows evoke blackface, Prada Group issued a statement saying it “abhors racist imagery” and vowed to withdraw them from “display and circulation.”
In a Facebook post, Chinyere Ezie, a civil rights lawyer, said the sight of the figurines in the Italian brand’s store in New York’s SoHo district had her “shaking with anger,” describing “racist and denigrating #blackface imagery” and “Sambo like imagery.”

Ezie noted she had just returned from a visit to the National Museum of African-American History and Culture in Washington, taking in an exhibit on blackface.
“History cannot continue to repeat itself. Black America deserves better. And we demand better,” she wrote in her post, which got picked up by other blogs. “Shame on you Prada.”

In a statement to WWD, Prada said the figures are “fantasy charms composed of elements of the Prada oeuvre” and known as Pradamalia.
“They are imaginary creatures not intended to have any reference to the real world and certainly not blackface. Prada Group never had the intention of offending anyone and we abhor all forms of racism and racist imagery. In this interest we will withdraw the characters in question from display and circulation,” it

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Yves Saint Laurent Illustrations for Children’s Book Up for Auction

THE DEVIL IN PARIS: Parisian auction house Cornette de Saint Cyr is holding an auction on Dec. 19 of 100 drawings by fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent.
The pictures, drawn by Saint Laurent between 1961 and 1962, were destined to illustrate a children’s book commissioned by Parisian publisher Jacques Damase, but the project never came through. This is the first time the drawings are being unveiled to the public.
Named “Le Diable à Paris” (“The Devil in Paris”), the book, written by Damase, features a dapper-looking devil, drawn by Saint Laurent, wearing a red suit and little black horns on the cover illustration.
Other drawings see the devil dress up to visit a duchess, sport a leopard-printed suit and even a bull’s head in an illustration titled “Le Diable Espagnol” (“The Spanish Devil”), where he is pictured alongside a flamenco dancer.
Drawn in ink, pastel or graphite in mostly red and black hues, the title character is faced with an array of magical creatures, such as a giraffe in the shape of the Eiffel Tower or a human body with a dragon’s head.
A statement from the auction house explained Damase met Saint Laurent through accessories designer Roger Vivier. At the time of the project, the

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Roksanda Pre-Fall 2019

Looking to artist Rana Begum’s geometric patterns, optical tricks and fluorescent color palette, Roksanda Ilincic worked up a collection with a sporty-couture feel and a mix of smooth surfaces and rough edges. Highlights included taffeta gowns with pouf sleeves, fabric flower appliqués with frayed edges, and black scribble embroidery.
 

Roksanda Pre-Fall 2019 
Courtesy Photo

 
Other dresses – long and short – were adorned with cutout organza panels and more of those naif embroidered scribbles and looked as if they were designed by freewheeling art students. Another dress had a dramatic cape at the back and was covered with blurry, colored panels. For day, there were pleats and tucks galore on dresses made from long strips of mismatched, patterned fabric, or from lightweight cotton silk gazar in flouro pink or orange.
 

Roksanda Pre-Fall 2019 
Courtesy Photo

 
A pair of cream linen silk trousers came with color-blocked pastel racing stripes down the side, while a tailored jacket was an elegant patchwork of energy drink green and powdery blue. While many of the silhouettes in this upbeat collection were breezy, bright and dreamy, but there was a strictness to this collection, too, in the form of a pea green wool boucle coat and long matching skirt, and a sturdy cream

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Nike Puts Data First for New Techpack Collection 

RUSH HOUR: Nike believes that navigating the city is a sport unto itself and its new Techpack collection, of transitional sportswear, was designed to see customers through full 12- to 14-hour days.
The new collection will drop in Europe exclusively on the Nike app on Dec. 21. It will then be made available at all Nike stores, as of Jan. 10.
The collection marks a new strategy for the brand “to create with data-informed design.”
“This is really the first season we took a step back and looked at the way consumers were using the product. We spend an incredible amount of time working with athletes or people whose training is their prime pursuit and we know everything about them, so we said ‘Why don’t we apply some of that data-informed methodology to someone navigating the city?’” said Kurt Parker, vice president of apparel design at Nike.
“We pulled together a very international design team and found the insights to be very universal. The kid in Shanghai was living a very similar existence to the kid in London and parts of the U.S.,” Parker added.
Pieces include core performance products such as training tights, hoodies, T-shirts and shorts, including Nike’s popular Windrunner style. One of the key product innovations

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Adidas Investigating Gosha Rubchinskiy Claims

PARIS — Adidas is the first collaborator brand to comment on allegations made against Gosha Rubchinskiy, albeit with a brief statement, in response to claims made by a 16-year-old, who was seeking to model in the Russian designer’s look book, accusing him of inappropriate behavior.
“We take any allegation of this nature extremely seriously and are currently looking into the claim that has been made,” Adidas said. The brand declined to share more details on the investigation.
The German sporting goods company has collaborated several times with the designer since the spring 2017 season, including on a World Cup-themed collection for fall 2018, presented at his show in Yekaterinburg, one of the event’s host cities.
As reported, Jan Silfverling shared exchanges on Instagram and WhatsApp with Facebook group High Fashion Talk that seem to suggest the designer was trying to coax racy pictures from the youth. The post was picked up by outlets including Supreme Leaks News and Diet Prada.
In turn, Rubchinskiy’s team on Sunday issued a statement to WWD defending the risky practice of casting via Instagram. “Gosha throughout his career in 10 years always personally chose models. For us, participation of not-professional models and common street-cast guys always was important. Not

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Romeo Gigli Receives Honoris Causa Diploma From Brera Art Academy

GIGLI’S TRIBUTE: Romeo Gigli was recognized on Wednesday in Milan by Brera’s prestigious Art Academy, which bestowed the Honoris Causa Diploma in communication and art teaching to the designer. Gigli also received the title of honorary member of the institution.
“Romeo Gigli, who made culture, books, traveling and kindness his own style, understands that many secrets challenge us and are hidden in mythical stories.…Gigli’s language morphed into clothes that wanted to reveal the most hidden secret: that of poetry,” stated the academy, which emphasized not only Gigli’s contribution as a designer of high fashion, but also his “ability to use the spiritual activity that created myths,” creating a “mythological vision of reality.” The academy also underscored the designer’s “tireless research [and] his ability to transform the light and history in fabrics, clothes and accessories,” his “great contribution to the enhancement of the Italian culture,” and how the designer “infused his passion for beauty, history and the journey in his work.”
The designer was born in 1949 in Castel Bolognese, near Ravenna, to a family of antique book sellers and studied architecture at university. Gigli launched his own brand in 1983 and conceived looks with architectural shapes combined with romantic, Renaissance touches, dashes of

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H&M Teams With Eytys for Gender-Neutral Collection

SWEDE TEAM: Hennes & Mauritz has teamed with Eytys for a gender neutral collection due early next year, targeting younger consumers with a fashion-forward offer.
The fast-fashion retailer will sell the Swedish label’s chunky-soled shoes and clothing for adults as well as items for children, starting Jan. 24 in some stores around the world and online.
The collaboration comes as the Swedish retailer undergoes a vast restructuring in a bid to beef up online services and speed up supply chains to catch up with rivals. The group last month said it would close Cheap Monday, a label geared to younger clients.
“The collection is all about proportions — creating a distinct unisex silhouette by playing around with loose silhouettes and chunky architectural footwear,” said Max Schiller, Eytys creative director.
Colors will include dark green, bright yellow, khaki, dark blue, black and white, while materials will include snakeskin prints, fake patent leather and stiff cotton. Shoes will be offered in boxes decorated with artwork by painter Zoe Barcza.
According to H&M’s statement, the retailer initially approached the label for a shoe collection but then decided on a full range of clothing and accessories, too, in order to show the “whole brand aesthetic and ethos,” according to Ross Lydon,

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Italy’s Antitrust Targets Alberta Ferretti, Alitalia and Influencers

FLYING PROBE: Italy’s antitrust watchdog has begun a probe to determine whether Alitalia and luxury goods group Aeffe have possibly engaged in surreptitious advertising through social media.
The antitrust authority has launched a preliminary investigation of Italy’s largest airline company and of Aeffe, in a link to its co-owner Alberta Ferretti. It is also investigating a number of influencers, including Chiara Ferragni, who posted on Instagram images of themselves wearing Alberta Ferretti designs embellished with the Alitalia logo.
On Tuesday, Aeffe executive chairman Massimo Ferretti, brother of the designer, had no comment on the issue.
In June, Ferretti unveiled the new uniforms she designed for employees of Alitalia, as well as a see-now-buy-now capsule collection. The latter was presented at the brand’s resort 2019 and “Limited Edition” midi couture fall collection runway show that month.
The new uniforms replaced this summer those designed by Italian haute couturier Ettore Bilotta, which Alitalia introduced in 2016.
The capsule was immediately available at the brand’s stores and e-commerce, as well as at selected retailers including LuisaViaRoma, Rinascente, Farfetch, Barneys and Forward by Elyse Walker, and consisted of a sweatshirt, a T-shirt and a sweater embellished with the Alitalia logo.

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Staud Pre-Fall 2019

“Sand, summer, sea,” Sarah Staudinger described of the beginnings of her latest collection for Staud. From the sand, terry cloth was introduced à la striped three-piece sets — cropped top, skirt, duster — with matching bucket hat and Bisset bag, as well as beach ready cover-ups — raw-edge seashell-colored linen sarongs with raw edges, jumpsuits and tunics and men’s wear-inspired button-ups. Summer was encapsulated through an array of adorable picnic inspired garb in poppy hues like tablecloth gingham compact knit playsuits and matching sets and plenty of crudite emblazoned offerings. The best foodie-looks included a salad printed waffle minidress with matching cardigan or a matching neon green knit set with fringe made of mini glass lemons (and matching croakies). To round out the collection, vibrant technical tube tops, skirts, shorts and dresses of varying lengths referenced the sea with pull-ties to create volume and billowing sleeves.
Accessories were a hit as well — old bags had new prints (gingham) or fabrics (linen and lizard) while new bags came triangular (big and small) and cylindrical; there were even leather sunglass-case attachments and matching sandals to complete the looks. The lineup was playful and encapsulated the fresh summer feeling through the more

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Meghan, Duchess of Sussex Salutes Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller at Fashion Awards

LONDON — Meghan, the Duchess of Sussex took Fashion Award-goers in London by surprise when she took to the Royal Albert Hall stage on Monday evening to present Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller, the designer behind her wedding dress, with the British women’s wear designer of the year award.
“It’s such a pleasure to be here, celebrating British fashion and British designers in my new home of the U.K. I’m seeing many familiar faces, many of you I’ve known for quite a while,” said Markle, who wore an elegant one-shoulder Givenchy gown and clutched onto her baby bump throughout her speech.
She spoke about women empowering each other through the clothes they wear and fashion’s shifting culture: “It was cool to be cruel, now it’s cool to be kind,” she said.

“When you choose to wear a certain designer, we’re not just a reflection of their creativity and their vision but we’re also an extension of their values,” added the new royal, lauding Keller’s “creativity and incredible kindness.”
In turn, a very shocked Keller thanked Markle for trusting her in such an important moment in her life.
This is the second time a member of the Royal Family has attended an event organized by the British Fashion

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Izzue to Launch Capsule With CSM and to Show During London Fashion Week

FIRST TIME AROUND: Hong Kong fashion brand Izzue is throwing a 20th birthday bash in the form of a runway show during London Fashion Week in February. This will be the first time that Izzue’s men’s and women’s pieces will be showcased on a London runway.
“London has always been a source of inspiration for Izzue. It has always embodied British punk, so to show outside of Asia needed to be a natural next step and it needed to make sense, so it had to be London,” said Deborah Cheng, chief commercial officer at I.T group.
Izzue, which is under the multibrand I.T Group, has formed ties with London since 2013 when they launched in the U.K. in Selfridges. Since then, the brand has gone from being a pop-up to having a dedicated space in the department store’s Contemporary Studio on the third floor.
“Our pop-up was so successful back in 2013 that we were offered a permanent space on the ground floor right after, and to this day we are still exceeding their expectations. We’ve grown with Selfridges and now we are located in the Contemporary Studio,” said Cheng.
On top of its runway show debut, the brand is also launching a capsule collection with

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Virgil Abloh Joins Evian as ‘Creative Adviser’

PARIS — Virgil Abloh has added a new role to his CV: creative adviser for sustainable innovation design at Evian.
The founder of Off-White and creative director of Louis Vuitton’s men’s line is to help the mineral water company, owned by Danone, make its design process more sustainable.
“Evian is an iconic brand with a strong heritage in fashion and creativity,” the designer said in a statement. “Its sustainability ambitions align with my own. Together we can push boundaries and explore new areas of revolution, paving a better future for generations globally.”
The announcement comes as Evian steps toward its goal of becoming a 100 percent circular brand by 2025: By this date, the company aims for all its water bottles to be made out of recycled plastic.
According to the statement, Abloh will both help design Evian future products and “use his wide-scale platform to engage his audience and raise awareness around the importance of innovation in design and sustainability.”
Announcing the collaboration via its Instagram account, Evian playfully riffed on Abloh’s signature quotation marks: on a makeshift Evian business card, the designer’s name is followed by his new title, “Creative Adviser.”
“Virgil is a creative innovator who has a degree in civil engineering and a

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Eton Marks 90 Years

MILAN — Swedish shirtmaker Eton is going to celebrate its 90th anniversary with a special event at Pitti Uomo.
Although the company is keeping details on the celebration under wraps, Eton’s chief creative officer Sebastian Dollinger highlighted the importance of the Florentine trade show.
“Pitti Uomo is the event to be at for the men’s fashion industry and we are happy and honored to fete our anniversary there,” he said during an interview in Milan.
Founded in Gånghester, a town in Southern Sweden, by David and Annie Patterson, Eton sells its high-end shirts in 50 countries through a wholesale network of about 1,600 international retailers, including prestigious department stores Harrods, Selfridges, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Harry Rosen, Le Bon Marché, El Corte Inglés, Rinascente and KaDeWe.
“We seem an old brand, but we are just at the beginning,” said Eton chief executive officer Hans Davidson. “In 90 years we managed to build a solid label, which is known for the high quality and the style. Now, the goal is to reach new and old customers through all the channels.”
While Eton is well-positioned across Europe and the U.S., the company still has to conquer the Asian market.
“We are preparing in the right way

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Coach Lights Up Shanghai

SHANGHAI — As far as bygone New York City eras go, the Seventies with its disco balls and grungy graffiti-splattered walls is one of the most fondly remembered — and it was this slice of life that Coach re-created at the West Bund Art Center, parking vintage Mustang replicas beside the runway and blaring police sirens and hip-hop beats.
Actress and Coach campaign face Chloë Grace Moretz came to hang out, as well as Ji Soo and Rosé, band members from the K-pop group Blackpink. Hannah Quinlivan, the model and wife to Taiwanese superstar Jay Chou, also came to view the dual-gender collection, which featured varying handkerchief hemlines and a more colorful palette than seen in the past two seasons. The show contained only small bags, perfect for the wallet-less China WeChat generation.
With so much tense talk between U.S. and China over trade the past few months — the two sides only last week came to a temporary tariffs truce — a Shanghai show from a New York house acted, if only in its own small way, as counterpoint.
For Coach, the motivation to hold the show was its 15th anniversary in China, a country which now figures as its second-largest market after North America.

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Hoorsenbuhs Opens First Store, Creates Eyewear

Hoorsenbuhs, the American fine jewelry house and lifestyle brand known for its bold rings, cuffs and open-link chains, has opened its first store, in Santa Monica, Calif., within a 5,000 square-foot, two-story space that also houses its atelier, headquarters and event space.
Located at 2217 Main Street across from its previous headquarters, the 1,500-square-foot retail store was designed by creative chief Robert Keith and partner and brand director Kether Parker.
“We’ve kept pretty private,” Keith said of the previous space, which was used for private appointments. “But we’re ready to invite people in to show how we’ve evolved over the last 13 years. Plus, I need a place for all the weird things I design,” he said of the furniture, fixtures and sculptures.
As guests step in, they see elements from the by-appointment-only studio and Soho gallery pop-up, including the life-size brass bank vault and artworks from friends and collaborators such as Damien Hirst and Wes Lang. New are signature elements such as black wood panels, logo-stamped brass bolts — there are 3,500 outside and 1,400 inside — and custom-built cases suspended from anchor chains, along with furniture that pays homage to the best-selling Phantom Ring.
Also on display is the newly launched luxury

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Faherty Creates Capsule to Support LGBTQ Community

Faherty is in the giving spirit this holiday season.
The New York-based casualwear brand has created a new women’s collection, the Rainbow capsule, and will donate 10 percent of sales to The Trevor Project, a suicide prevention and crisis intervention organization for LGBTQ youth.
The collection, which will be available starting Monday, consists of a sweater poncho for $ 269, a pom beanie for $ 78 and a cotton-acrylic scarf for $ 118.
To promote the initiative, Faherty will team with Brooklyn-based fashion blogger Allison Graham of “She Does Him,” who will produce and share a campaign featuring the Rainbow capsule with more than 27,000 of her followers.

“When we designed the Rainbow Sweater Poncho and matching beanie and scarf for our holiday collection, its bright colors and cozy softness evoked in us the warm and fuzzy feeling of the holidays,” said Faherty president Kerry Faherty. “But we also know the holidays can bring up feelings of sadness and loneliness for many. We reached out to The Trevor Project to set up a partnership and donate a portion of our Rainbow Collection sales to the organization. We’re deeply inspired by and grateful for the organization’s incredible efforts in the LGBTQ community and we’re honored to support them during

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R13 Pre-Fall 2019

R13’s Chris Leba is in the throes of consolidating his offices into a new downtown space — and gearing up to open his first brick-and-mortar store on the ground level sometime next year. Women’s market is in full swing, then men’s, then women’s again.
He drew light inspiration for his pre-fall from Sofia Coppola’s film “Marie Antoinette,” enticed by its frivolity and baroque elements. Subtle winks to the film were seen in the ruffles on billowing button-down shirts, and sand-washed floral-printed silks rendered into easy and sexy tops with animal print accents. Otherwise, the collection featured Leba’s usual balance of eccentric punk, tailoring and inventive denim.
At the core of the collection were young, exciting, wearable clothes with gender-ambiguous undertones. A bleached group of suiting and sweatshirts with safety-pin embellishments provided edge to more formal men’s-inspired attire, and upcycled vintage motorcycle jackets which are specially studded in Los Angeles and can’t easily be replicated. One effortlessly cool pinstriped blazer was cut generously and studded along the lapels. Leba noted many of the tailored items could end up in the men’s line, following a recent trend of gender-fluid design.
He thrived when using denim to experiment with new, inventive shapes, such as jackets with

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Zegna Joins Tmall Luxury Pavilion

Ermenegildo Zegna is expanding its reach in China.
The luxury Italian men’s wear brand has opened a digital “flagship” on Tmall Luxury Pavilion in a move that marks Zegna’s first online offering in the market outside of its own e-commerce site.
Zegna was one of the first luxury-goods brands to enter China with the opening of its first store in Beijing in 1991. The country now represents about half of its overall business. At the WWD CEO Summit in October, chief executive officer Ermenegildo Zegna, said: “We used to test new things in this market [the U.S.], but now we test them in China, and if it works, then we bring them around the world. [The Chinese customer] is so alive and he wants continuous innovation — probably because he’s younger and he has more time to shop.”
As part of its launch on Tmall, Zegna has created an exclusive collection with the Chinese Football Association. The limited-edition CFA Capsule Collection, which was developed for the China market, offers navy and white activewear, polo shirts, jackets, trainers and leather accessories inspired by the national soccer team’s off-field formal and casual attire, which Zegna has designed since 2016. A fuller assortment will be available by

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Cher’s Favorite Designer Bob Mackie to Speak at 92Y With Fern Mallis

Theatergoers, who haven’t lined up tickets for “The Cher Show,” can catch her famed fashion designer Bob Mackie at a Jan. 29 Q&A at 92Y.
Looking to give the glitzy bedazzler his due after more than 50 years in the fashion industry, Fern Mallis said she has been trying to get him to commit to the stage for a year. About a year ago, the Fashion Icons interviewer started the process. “Booking people for this is not exactly easy,” she said, adding that news reports of the Cher-inspired Broadway show only made her more impassioned to seek him out.
Mallis said she first met Mackie more than 30 years ago through the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “I remember going to one of his shows in the tents at Bryant Park that was just mind-boggling. It was so theatrical that it was like watching a Broadway show. The crowd was just on their feet. It wasn’t about the latest trends or fads. It was spectacle.”
While Cher remains perennially linked to Mackie’s career, he worked with Carol Burnett for 11 years, and dressed standouts like Judy Garland and Diana Ross, too. Mackie also sketched the nude-colored rhinestone-encrusted gown that Marilyn Monroe wore

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Roland Mouret Shuts Town House Store on Madison Avenue

MOVING ON: Roland Mouret has shut his town house store at 1006 Madison Avenue as part of a wider reorganization of the business, which is streamlining and putting a greater focus on e-commerce, digital and wholesale.
Mouret opened the store, at 77th Street, in September 2016, having relocated from number 952 Madison Avenue. It spanned 1,937 square feet over the ground and mezzanine levels of the Twenties-era building.
“It’s the smallest town house on Madison — it’s unique,” the designer told WWD at the time, adding that he was proud to remain near to The Met Breuer, which focuses on the The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 20th and 21st century collections.
The setting was similar to Mouret’s London flagship, which is located in a red brick town house on Carlos Place, across from The Connaught hotel and just off Mount Street. In London, retail is on the ground floor with design studios and offices on the upper levels. The vast Carlos Place town house remains open.
As reported, Madison Avenue has been struggling with declining rents and high vacancies since the 2008 recession. According to research by Cushman & Wakefield, Madison Avenue availability rose to 27.8 percent at the end of the second quarter of

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Boggi Milano in Midst of European Shop-Opening Offensive

BERLIN — In a time when shop closures have become something of the norm, Boggi Milano has embarked on a shop-opening spree in Europe.
The Italian tailored-clothing specialist is in the process of adding 10 stores to its existing retail network in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, France and Benelux in the fourth quarter of 2018. Moreover, five large-scale Boggi Milano stores are slated to open in the region in the first three months of 2019.
Founded in Italy 80 years ago and headquartered in the Swiss canton of Tessin, Boggi Milano operates more than 165 stores in 35 countries. The first mono-brand store opened on Milan’s Piazza San Babila in 1964. Turin followed in 1987 and Geneva in 1996. Following a change of ownership in 2003, when it was acquired by the Italian family Zaccardi, Boggi’s own-store network has expanded rapidly, and the brand is to be found solely in company-owned or franchised mono-brand stores.
Germany is particularly in Boggi’s focus, and the company has 16 doors in the country in cities including Hamburg, Berlin, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Karlsruhe, Munich, Nuremberg, Leipzig and Munster. Stuttgart opened this week, and 2019 will see two additional doors in Munich. Germany generates 14 percent of the brand’s total

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Denim Première Vision Travels to London and Aims to Be More International

LONDON — Denim Première Vision is looking outward and repositioning itself on an international scale: For the first time in 11 years, the denim trade show was held outside Paris as part of a new strategy that will see the show land in a variety of locations.
London was the first stop in the fair’s “roving denim” strategy, which will see the exhibition touch down in markets with mature fashion industries. The two-day event wraps up Thursday at the Old Truman Brewery in Shoreditch.
For Guglielmo Olearo, chief executive officer of Première Vision, London offers a hotbed of creativity and contemporary fashion while also being an “unexplored market for denim. Our new positioning is very contemporary, fashionable and sustainable, and from what I can see so far, London touches on all these points,” Olearo said.
This year’s exhibition hosted 89 companies, ranging from weavers to garment manufacturers to technology developers. Olearo said these exhibitors were chosen to fit the year’s four themes: Discover, Care & Share, Performance and Personalization. According to Première Vision’s fashion director, Pascaline Wilhelm, personalization is the DNA of denim.
According to Wilhelm, trends are stemming from product innovation and comfort. “People don’t want to be constrained with garments, the need for freedom is

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Upcoming ‘Le Rouge Chanel’ Exhibit Canceled in Paris

SHOW OFF: The fallout continues from three weekends of antigovernment protests in Paris, with Chanel canceling its upcoming exhibition on the color red less than one week before it was set to open.
On Wednesday evening, the company issued a statement saying: “Due to recent events that took place in Paris, Chanel has made the decision to cancel the exhibition “Le Rouge Chanel,” which was to take place starting Dec. 11 in the Hôtel Marcel Dassault, Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées. Chanel deemed it preferable, as a precaution, not to have the public in a location in a neighborhood of the capital that was the scene of certain incidents during the demonstrations.”
Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées falls at the base of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, where demonstrators in reflective safety vests, known as “gilets jaunes,” on Saturday vandalized stores, cars and the Arc de Triomphe monument.
Chanel had made a large investment on the Champs-Élysées in the run-up to the end-of-year holiday season, with its sponsorship of the red Christmas lights and banners now decorating the shopping street. The color was chosen to match the advertising campaign for the launch of a limited-edition red bottle for the Chanel No.5 fragrance.
The exhibit had been scheduled to run through

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Payless, Sequential Brands Collaborate on Martha Everyday

Payless on Wednesday began offering a limited-edition holiday collection of footwear, inspired by Martha Stewart’s everyday life and style.
The new line, available at payless.com, is — for now — just a capsule collection for holiday. The line was in collaboration with Sequential Brands Group Inc., the brand management firm that owns the Martha Stewart brand.
Sequential’s chief executive officer Karen Murray said the new partnership “complements our strategy for the Martha Stewart brand, which is to create beautiful, high-quality products and make them available at an affordable price where consumers shop.”
Stewart last month partnered with Aerosoles for a separate footwear line called Martha Stewart for Aerosoles. She is also Aerosole’s brand ambassador. The line at Payless is part of the core Martha Everyday brand. The limited-edition capsule at Payless for includes a strappy, stiletto sandal; a flat, kitten-heel mule and two variations of sling-backs. Price points range from $ 29.99 to $ 34.99. Additional styles — casual sandals, sneakers and slip-ons — are on the agenda for spring 2019.
The lifestyle maven said, “Whenever I am designing items for my customers, I always want to give them the best possible product at the most affordable price. When I started designing this line for Payless,

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Antonio Marras Makes Theater Debut

ON TOUR: Antonio Marras will bring his stage show outside his native Sardinia island next year.
The fashion designer and artist recently made his debut as theater director with the “My heart, I’m suffering. What can I do for you?” show, which was staged in Italy at Cagliari’s Teatro Massimo theater Nov. 21–25 and at the Teatro Civico in Alghero on Nov. 27.

The “My heart, I’m suffering. What can I do for you?” show. 
Courtesy Photo

Written and directed by Marras, the show includes 15 acts bringing to the stage the dreams, disturbances, nightmares and obsessions of different generations. “I enrolled 20 performers, great artists, upcoming theater talents,” said Marras, who is known for his theater-like approach to fashion shows. “I involved them into this madness and, while I told them that this might have ruined their careers, they all spontaneously embarked on this project.”
In 2019, the show, which is produced by Valeria Orani and which mixes visual arts, theater, cinema and dance, will travel across the countries with stops in Milan, Rome and Bari. Then, in 2020, it is expected to make its American debut in New York.

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See by Chloé Pre-Fall 2019

In the late Eighties and early Nineties, Amy Arbus took her first street-style photographs in New York. For pre-fall, the Parisian See by Chloé girl channels those streets — “a time when youth culture thrived amidst the city’s diverse social scenes” — clad in a juxtaposition of boyish-prep-meets-fresh-femininity. Cue Prince of Wales carrot pants paired with a lilac, Victorian-inspired ruffled shirt and chunky clogs, or a varsity poncho over a drop-hem day dress and paisley pussy-bow blouse.
Paisley prints and embroidered trims ran their course throughout in faded and dusty blues on flirty matching sets and breezy dresses, while sweaters — from chunky ribbed or slightly distressed dresses to sweater vests and cardigans — kept looks cool. A particularly great paisley sweater, paired with oversized denim shorts, made for a great mash-up, as did the strongest look: a gold brocade button-up shirt, cinched under a wide belt and paired with a paneled gray denim and beige cotton carrot pant. The lineup gave modern interpretation to Arbus characters of yore.

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Browns Gets On Board With the BFC’s NewGen Initiative

LONDON — British retailer Browns is amping up its efforts to support emerging talent by becoming the latest partner of the British Fashion Council’s NewGen scheme.
NewGen promotes London’s most promising up-and-comers by providing mentoring, financial support and showcasing opportunities during London Fashion Week.
As a partner, Browns said it will work toward strengthening the designers’ support network by further funding the scheme and providing mentorship programs that will focus on passing on the Browns team’s business and retail expertise.
Members of the Browns team will also sit on the NewGen judging panel to determine which designers will receive sponsorship in the coming seasons.
Current recipients include Halpern, Richard Quinn, Phoebe English, Matty Bovan, Liam Hodges, Kiko Kostadinov and Alighieri.
“Through partnerships like this, we will continue to demonstrate the Browns ethos, and we look forward to working closely with the BFC and the designers to build out meaningful initiatives with support and mentorship at the heart,” said Holli Rogers, the retailer’s chief executive officer.
Earlier this year, Browns also set up a new department dedicated to scouting and supporting young talent and is now looking to expand it into different segments, to reflect the huge variety of categories emerging talent can belong to.
As part of

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Chanel to Halt Use of Exotic Skins

No more croco for Coco.
On the eve of its pre-fall Metiers d’Art show here at the Met on Tuesday, Chanel said it will “no longer use exotic skins in our future creations.”
Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, told WWD of the move in an exclusive interview.
The exotic skins in question include crocodile, lizard, snake and stingray.
Pavlovsky noted the list also includes fur, of which Chanel uses very little.
“It is our experience that it is becoming increasingly difficult to source exotic skins,” Chanel said in a statement, noting it would create “a new generation of high-end products” by innovating with fabric and leather.
Pavlovsky said the latter category will focus on materials generated by the “agri-food” industries.

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Nike Vision Expands Kevin Durant Eyewear Collection

Nike is placing more focus on its eyewear business Nike Vision.
The athletics brand, which produces and distributes its eyewear through Marchon, has released its second collection with NBA star Kevin Durant. Due to the success of the previous capsule, they’ve continued the partnership and expanded it to include sunglasses.
The two new styles of sunglasses include design details pulled from Durant’s on-court skills. The Nike KD Flicker boasts laser-etched components that are created from body-mapping Durant on court. Each of the sunglasses are laser-etched with a “KD” logo and Nike Swoosh logo on both temples. They retail from $ 99 to $ 144.
“Kevin was already wearing Nike sunglasses, so it was a natural progression from his optical collection to expand to sunglasses as well,” said Steve Tripi, marketing director at Marchon. “KD provides inspiration and direction for product design and he is involved throughout the process for approvals.”
The four new optical styles include the Nike KD 88, which is named after Durant’s birth year, and the Nike KD 929, which is named after his birthday. They were designed for young athletes and have flexible spring hinges meant to offer durability and comfort. The Nike KD 28 represents Durant’s age when he won his

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Master and Dynamic Partners With Johnny Dowell

Johnny “King Nerd” Dowell has teamed with Master and Dynamic.
The London-based artist, who graduated from Central Saint Martins, has hand-engraved 10 MH40 Over-Ear headphones.
Dowell, who spent 15 years engraving at James Purdey and Sons, a British gunmaker, is known for working with some leading watch brands but had more room to play with this partnership.
“The sleek and modern designs of Master and Dynamic headphones combined with the premium quality and materials have always stood out to me as a product with engraving potential and here we are,” said Dowell. “For this particular project I was inspired by a traditional scrolling style, which starts with a nice curve and features ornate details that flow back and forth between the patterns, juxtaposing classic techniques with contemporary product.”
The headphones, which retail for $ 999, are available to purchase now. Master and Dynamic has previously worked with filmmaker Sam Kolder and architect David Adjaye.

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Oliver Peoples Fetes ‘California as We See It’ With Lisa Eisner

A clutch of bespectacled Angelenos joined luxury eyewear brand Oliver Peoples on Thursday to fete the launch of the Assouline tome “California as We See It.” Cohosted by photographer and Los Angeles style arbiter Lisa Eisner, who penned the book’s foreword, the party drew Shaun Ross, Levi Dylan, William Peltz, Stormi Henley, Markus Molinari, Brad Elterman, Lorenza Izzo, Ivan Olita and Tasya van Ree, along with Oliver Peoples chief executive officer Rocco Basilico and creative director Giampiero Tagliaferri.
“Do you remember their first shop?” asked Eisner of the Sunset Plaza store a few blocks down the street. “It was right in the middle of all this history — George Hurrell’s studio, Billy Haines’ showroom, Adrian’s shop. Then there were all the rock clubs like The Whiskey a Go Go and The Roxy.” She also pointed out the pioneering retailer Charles Gallay — the first boutique in the U.S. to carry Azzedine Alaïa — and the location used for the apartment of Richard Gere’s character in “American Gigolo.”
“That’s sort of the area in which we played, and when I bought my first pair of Oliver Peoples in the Eighties, we were like this clique,” she said. Eisner has also photographed several campaigns

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APL Debuts The Woolmark Company-Certified Running Shoe

Los Angeles-based running shoe brand Athletic Propulsion Labs (APL) has partnered with The Woolmark Company on the first technical-knit shoe to hit the global market with the wool certification trademark.
The TechLoom Breeze Merino Wool collection is APL’s most sustainable and lightest running shoe to date, made with 80 percent Australian merino wool and knitted with APL’s patented, stretch-rebound TechLoom upper to deliver strength, greater elasticity and maximum support during performance and sports lifestyle activities. It’s the first launch in a series of long-term certified wool product collaborations between APL and The Woolmark Company.
Over two years in development, the certified Wool Rich Blend engineered knit is designed to keep its shape using filament-wrapped wool yarns to add resistance to abrasion and extend wear. The yarns are also stain- and odor-resistant, naturally regulating the temperature of feet. Utilizing the latest fully fashioned knitting technology, the shoe is knitted to its final shape, reducing the amount of fabric waste often caused by regular cut-and-sew techniques. The knitting technology also allows for seamless design features such as breathable panels. Other popular brands such as Allbirds offer wool sneakers, but APL has taken a more “luxury performance” stance in the market.
Cofounder Adam Goldston explained, “After

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First Lady Melania Trump Wears Reem Acra for G20 Leaders’ Dinner

With the G20 in full swing, the powers that be gathered Friday night at the leaders’ dinner at Teatro Colón in Buenos Aires. First Lady Melania Trump dressed for the occasion in a custom Reem Acra column dress with a vintage belt and metallic pumps. Her yellow diamond stud earrings were chosen to accent the glittery belt. FLOTUS originally selected the dress for another occasion, but it turned out to be better suited for this one, her stylist Hervé Pierre said.
She and Acra, who is based in New York, are “very good friends,” and the designer suited up Trump for a formal dinner the night before last year’s inaugural, the stylist said. Describing Acra as “a dream,” Pierre said, “Designers can be difficult. [laughing] She is really nice.”
Of course, speculation centered on diplomatic relations, especially Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s welcome to Russian President Vladimir Putin, as well as the overheard informal exchange between the prince and French President Emmanuel Macron. While Trump met with prime minister of India Narendra Modi and Japan’s prime minister Shinzō Abe earlier in the day, the dinner lends itself to more relaxed conversations among world leaders. German Chancellor Angela Merkel had some ground

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Sally LaPointe Pre-Fall 2019

Real or faux? As the great fur debate has moved brands passionately one way or the other, Sally LaPointe has kept her cool. The designer has become synonymous with covetable fur-accented sweaters and, with the launch of e-commerce earlier this year, has certainly seen a demand for mink. But she also introduced faux fur and shearling for resort and has seen interest here from a younger, more conscientious clientele.
She continued to expand that fur language into pre-fall, using fox fur as trimming on cozy-yet-sleek knitwear while utilizing faux fur and shearling in bold, statement outerwear. The brand is founded upon the principle of casual yet cool glam, so a faux-fur duster was grounded with a cut-and-sew wool alpaca set or sequined pants and a turtleneck, topped off by silver o-ring zipper pulls.
The collection’s Nineties tinge was drawn from men’s wear, which influenced soft tailoring done in dusty yellows and blues, sweatsuits made from Lurex and merino wool, and pinstripes fashioned into a standout graphic cashmere and merino wool top and pant. No look better defined the retro men’s influence than knit basketball shorts and a sweater set cut in a yummy papaya hue. Buttery suede separates, elevated silky pajama sets

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‘Standard of the West,’ Black Bear Brand Leather

A BEAR FOR WEAR: Resurgence of slow fashion and putting hands to work, and resting on nearly 100 years of heritage, Black Manufacturing is uniting its “union of makers” with its newest leather-jacket collaboration, colluding in the Pacific Northwest where the “outdoors and industrial collide.”
Fixed on quality and made-to-order utility, Black Bear Brand’s product selection includes leather jackets, heavyweight shirts of wool and tweed weave, knit accessories and collaborations such as that of the latest Black Bear Brand x Langlitz Leathers featuring Horween Leather Co. horsehide, tanned specially for the collaboration.
Since 1914, when George G. Black built the namesake manufacturing center to foster the growth of the label, the emphasis has been on providing product with purpose. And this “union of makers” is tethered to the Black family’s founding mission to dissolve competing sweatshop conditions and place emphasis on worker welfare and emotional resonance.
WWD spoke with Josh Sirlin, creative director, curator and principal at Black Manufacturing, the overseer of Black Bear Brand and its “union of makers,” which is essentially “sharing what’s behind the product” and “participating in the creating,” as Sirlin stated.
Softening production timelines, each leather jacket begins with a “personal consultation with each customer during the ordering process” to perfect sizing

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Johnny Was Continues Growth Push With Swim

Johnny Was has launched into swim in a move outlined a little over a year ago by its chief executive officer, who is looking to grow the business through new categories and store expansion.
Private equity firm Endeavour Capital a little more than three years ago invested in the business, which was founded in 1987, with the new capital fueling this latest growth strategy.
The latest example of this is Friday’s launch of swimwear for resort 2019. The offering will be rolled out to some 150 specialty stores in addition to Neiman Marcus, which is serving as the exclusive luxury major partner for the launch.
The 25-piece collection, which is being produced in-house rather than through a licensing firm, offers sizes up to 3X. That’s the same ceiling as the ready-to-wear line. Retail pricing ranges from $ 88 to $ 298.
The extension into swim was an obvious one for the brand, which has built a business around color, print and embroidery, said vice president of wholesale sales and merchandising Meg Doepke.
“Our customers have been asking us to do that for years and we did see a void in the market for colorful, flattering swimwear that fits real women, but doesn’t look too matronly,” Doepke went

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Destination XL Cuts Losses in Quarter as CEO Search Continues

The corporate restructuring instituted earlier this year is starting to pay off for Destination XL Group.
In the third quarter, the men’s big & tall retailer cut its losses and improved its comparable-store sales, prompting it to update its earnings guidance for the fiscal year. But its search for a new chief executive officer continues as the countdown to the departure of current chief David Levin approaches on Dec. 31. In the case that the retailer can’t find a replacement by year-end, Levin will transition to acting ceo from Jan. 1-April 30 for $ 200,000 a month.
The retailer said that it terminated its deal with Heidrick & Struggles International Inc. to lead the search process on Oct. 1 and is now working with Russell Reynolds Associates to lead the process and expects a successor to be named by the end of the first quarter of fiscal 2019.
As reported, Levin is expected to resign as an officer and director of the company on Jan. 1. The company expects to incur an aggregate charge of approximately $ 2.1 million for ceo transition costs in fiscal 2018 and an additional $ 1.6 million in fiscal 2019 and fiscal 2020.
Turning to the third quarter, the retailer cut its

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Isa Arfen’s Nostalgic Trip to the Italian Riviera

HOLIDAY SPIRIT: Undeterred by the autumnal British showers, Isa Arfen designer Serafina Sama wanted to bring a taste of the Italian Riviera to London.
She took over a dining room at the Italian restaurant San Lorenzo — an old Knightsbridge favorite that dates back to the Sixties and transports guests to the Mediterranean by way of palm trees and old-school paintings of the coast — to showcase her latest spring collection and give her guests, who included Charlotte Dellal, Alexa Chung and Martina Mondadori, a taste of her happy, colorful world.
Models ate, drank and danced around in a room filled with tinsel, origami and half-empty glasses of Aperol spritz, showing off the collection that was filled with cute pink check dresses, airy striped shirts, bright floral jacquard skirts that had a vintage feel and loose T-shirts with postcards of the Italian Riviera printed on them.
It was Arfen’s love letter to Italy: “The collection was a nostalgic homage to my childhood and the endless summers of I spent in the Italian Riviera. My mood board was full of photographs of Luigi Ghirri, Massimo Vitali, Charles H. Traub and Martin Parr,” said Sama.

Having skipped the London catwalk in September in favor of one-on-one appointments

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Exclusive: Naomi Campbell Becomes a Vlogger With ‘Being Naomi’ YouTube Channel

THE INTERNET’S A STAGE: The supermodel who needs no introduction is getting personal with her own YouTube channel.
Naomi Campbell will today launch “Being Naomi,” on the video platform. She says she hopes the channel will give her fans an inside look into her life as a businesswoman, activist and in-demand model, and open up opportunities for them to communicate with her — plus show viewers the kinds of charitable causes in which she participates.

“I want to show the world who I am and what I stand for,” Campbell explains. “My hope is that when you engage with my channel that you are inspired by what you see, that it pushes you to be the best you can be, to do your part in the world and to pursue your dreams.”
Campbell has a slew of video features slated for her channel in the near future, including a livestream of the Global Citizen Festival in Johannesburg, South Africa. The model will also be telling the story of how she was discovered in a feature titled “My Journey,” to be released on Dec. 13, and will share her New Year’s resolutions in a video on Jan. 3.
Will Naomi Campbell become a YouTube sensation,

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How Babylon Built a Brand Around Community

LOS ANGELES — Lee Spielman is nothing if not efficient.
He’s direct and doesn’t waste time on formalities, and that’s no surprise given how busy he is with Babylon. That’s the Los Angeles label he started with Garrett Stevenson some three-and-a-half years ago. The two have a steady flow of collaborations in the works, going as far ahead as 2020, and plans to reopen a store in the L.A. area next year.
They recently wrapped a pop-up at Undefeated on La Brea Avenue, doing a collaboration with Venice brand Born x Raised. Past collaborations for the brand have ranged from Off-White to skate brand Spitfire. This places it in the enviable position of sitting alongside Maison Margiela in some stores and F—ing Awesome, a core label, in others. Distribution is discerning, with some 25 accounts globally, doing business with accounts it sees eye-to-eye with, Spielman said.
“It’s finding the common thread [as to] why that all makes sense,” Spielman said. “So Virgil [Abloh], he’d actually come to the shop and pull up and talk with kids….We definitely live in a wild place where we sell clothes to fashion kids and we sell clothes to dirty kids at the skate park, which is a

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Kim Jones Debuts Dior Men’s Spring Collection at Tokyo Pop-Up

BUZZING INTO TOKYO: Roughly 100 customers lined up outside Isetan’s men’s building in Shinjuku on Wednesday morning, waiting for the doors to open so they could get their hands on the spring 2019 men’s capsule collection that Kim Jones designed for Dior. It is the first offering released by the designer since he took over as artistic director.
For the capsule, Jones tapped New York-based artist Brian Donnelly, known professionally as Kaws, to reimagine the brand’s classic bee motif, as well as to create a new Dior logo specially for the collection.
At the pop-up, customers can purchase T-shirts to be customized in front of them with a spray gun that dispenses permanent ink in the chosen design. They are also printed with the date and the number of their purchase.
Exclusive to the Tokyo store are items that feature the Kaws bee in pink rather than yellow, including T-shirts, sweatshirts and small leather goods. Also available are Japanese selvedge denim jeans embroidered with the traditional boro method, and the iconic Dior Saddle bag, which Jones has reinterpreted for men for the first time.
Sunglasses and belts with buckles designed by Matthew Williams of Alyx and jewelry by Yoon Ahn complete the offering.
The Tokyo

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Valentino RTW and Men’s Pre-Fall 2019

TOKYO — A day after unveiling a new retail concept at its Ginza flagship store, Valentino staged its first runway show in Japan since the Eighties, with creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli also showing women’s wear and men’s wear together for the first time.
“In Japan and in the world today, I don’t think you feel such a difference between genders,” the designer said. “It’s a different way of working, but the philosophy behind men and women I think is the same. So the clothes are different, a different wardrobe, but the values are the same.”
Piccioli drew on classic couture detailing for women and tailoring for men, but reimagined them in a more modern way that is more appropriate for every day.
“I didn’t want to do streetwear or daywear generically,” he said. “I wanted to get the identity of the house, but going into the street.”
The result was a pre-fall collection that struck a perfect balance between red-carpet drama and practicality. Many of the most iconic codes of Valentino could be found yet refreshed. Flowers, such as those that adorned the dress Marisa Berenson was photographed in for Vogue in 1968, showed up as tiny buds adorning a knit dress with rows

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Diane von Furstenberg Designs Claridge’s Christmas Tree

WINTER WONDERLAND: Diane von Furstenberg has lit up Claridge’s hotel with her “Tree of Love” design for the holidays. The designer’s 6-meter, or nearly 17-foot, Christmas tree, unveiled during a Champagne breakfast on Tuesday, has transformed the hotel’s lobby into a midnight blue wonderland.
“I wanted to do a tree of love because trees are such an important and powerful symbol,” von Furstenberg said of her design, which takes the form of a forest tree instead of the typical Christmas fir tree.
To give it that festive look, von Furstenberg has covered the branches with 8,000 hand-painted silver leaves and hung 150 hand-blown glass heart baubles. To complete the wonderland theme, silver animal sculptures, from deer and owls to doves, were added to the base and on the branches.

“I wanted to show the beauty of the tree, it gets its strength from the roots, the branches go up to the sky, the flowers become fruits, it’s a home for birds, it provides shade for children, gives shelter to lovers and lastly, it’s a symbol of life and light,” the designer added.
December also marks the designer’s birthday, which is why she has chosen a zodiac theme as the tree’s backdrop. A zodiac print with the 12-star signs cover the walls of

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Ampersand Collective Brings Online Men’s Brands Into Retail Space

Some digitally native men’s brands have come together in a brick-and-mortar play for the holiday season.
Called Ampersand Collective, the 10-day pop-up on New York’s Lower East Side will feature gifts for guys from Stuart & Lau​​, a luggage and accessories brand; men’s outerwear from North & Mark​​; dress shoes from ​Wolf & Shepherd​​; ​hats and other haberdashery items from BM Franklin​​; grooming products from ​Fulton & Roark; timepieces from ​The 5th​​; socks and underwear from ​Nice Laundry​, and bikes from Tokyobike.
The idea for the shop was hatched by Stuart & Lau and North & Mark as a way to bring their brands to a different audience.

“I am proud to have brought together some of the best emerging men’s and gear brands together for this short-term residency,” said Matt Stuart, founder of Stuart & Lau. “As mostly digital native brands, this pop-up brings us off-line ​and offers the opportunity to showcase the brands in a physical location.”
Steve Cho, founder of North & Mark, added: “It’s very exciting to have a physical place where people can come to and try products they normally could only get online. Even in the digital age, people still need to touch and feel products before they purchase. The brands

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Sergio Rossi Releases Christmas Capsule Collection

MILAN — Sergio Rossi is stepping into the holiday season in a sparkling way.
The Italian footwear company has released a capsule collection of silver glittered styles, comprising sneakers, kitten-heeled pointy sling-backs and high-heeled pumps.
To enhance the festive mood of the lineup, the styles are embellished with ribbons and the brand’s initials in crystals.
Available beginning Tuesday at the Sergio Rossi stores and e-commerce, the collection retails from 595 euros for the sneakers to 695 euros for the pumps.

A shoe from Sergio Rossi’s 2018 holiday capsule collection. 
Courtesy Photo

Flanking the launch, a short video dubbed “A Magic Spark” has been created to promote the lineup on the brand’s web site and social media.
Through the work of multimedia artist Sofia Mattioli and illustrator Delphine Cauly, the video combines illustration with live action, as footage of a dancer sporting the footwear are alternated with sketches depicting the styles and the company’s factory in San Mauro Pascoli.

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Mother-Daughter Brand MaisonCléo Debuts Capsule With Opening Ceremony

FAMILY AFFAIR — MaisonCléo, the French ready-to-wear brand born on Instagram, is teaming with Opening Ceremony for a capsule collection.
The brand, founded by Marie Dewet and her mother Nathalie in September 2016, has designed three pieces — a cotton shirt, a silk top and a silk skirt — which will be sold exclusively on the Opening Ceremony web site.
The capsule is limited in numbers: only 40 pieces will be available on the web site, both due to fabric limitation — the brand uses leftover and surplus fabrics from established fashion houses — and to its small team.
Based between Lille and Calais, in the north of France, MaisonCléo is entirely made by Nathalie (also known as “Cléo” to her friends because of the Cleopatra-style eyeliner she used to sport when she was younger) who has been a seamstress for over 30 years.
“A lot of retailers have approached us but the stock they ask for is always too high,” said Dewet. “Opening Ceremony spotted us on Instagram, and we managed to agree on a collection of 40 pieces, which my mother spent two months creating.”

The silk shirt and skirt from the MaisonCléo collection for Opening Ceremony. 
Courtesy

The mother-daughter duo shot to fame when

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Stephen Webster, Swarovski Stand Behind Cultured Diamonds

CULTURE CLUB: “A diamond is a diamond is a diamond,” said Nadja Swarovski as she unveiled Atelier Swarovski’s latest project, a jewelry collaboration with Stephen Webster who used cultured diamonds and recycled gold.
Atelier Swarovski is the company’s high-end label that produces design-led collections in collaboration with an array of creatives ranging from Peter Pilotto to Zaha Hadid. The brand turned 10 last year and to mark the occasion, Swarovski moved it forward by venturing into fine jewelry and raising its red-carpet profile.
She did so by embracing the still-nascent concept of lab-grown diamonds, at a time when there was much skepticism from traditional jewelers. The products, she said, are aligned with Swarovski’s broader company ethos.
“For us to enter the arena of fine jewelry by really putting sustainability at the forefront of the vision is so important. Not because we don’t like diamonds. We love diamonds as long as they are sourced sustainably, but in this case we are really embracing the sustainable angle of the cultured diamonds, and it’s so great to see that being sustainable does not compromise beauty.”
For Webster — who continues to work with mined diamonds — the appeal was in embracing a fast-moving, new trend and speaking

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LVMH’s Institut des Métiers d’Excellence Strengthens Partnership With Italy

FLORENCE — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is strengthening its vocational training model as its Institut des Métiers d’Excellence has signed three partnerships in Italy.
The announcement was made at Palazzo Pucci, which houses IME’s Italian headquarters, during a ceremony that celebrated last year’s graduates and marked the official beginning of IME’s second academic year in Italy.
The three partnerships will focus on training future talents in artisanal and retail skills. A program teaching technical expertise in assembling women’s footwear has been introduced with the Politecnico Calzaturiero in Capriccio di Vigonza, near Padua. The course includes 500 hours of theoretical and laboratory classes and 400 hours of internship in a LVMH company, including Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton and Rossimoda.
Retail-wise, a “Master in Luxury, Customer Adviser” has been added to the offer, beginning in the 2018-19 academic year. Entirely in English, the 1,500-hour course has been developed by Venice’s Università Ca’ Foscari and its Challenge School division.
Both courses will be funded by Italy’s Veneto region, while the Emilia-Romagna region will fund a third, soon-to-be-launched program training men’s shoe artisans and developed by the Berluti Académie du Savoir-faire in Ferrara.
Each apprenticeship alternates between theoretical education at the schools and practical training at the LVMH

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Karl Lagerfeld Turns Champs-Élysées Red for the Holidays

SEEING RED: Karl Lagerfeld switched on the Christmas lights Thursday night on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, bathing the street known as “the most beautiful avenue in the world” in red light.
The designer, who helms Chanel and Fendi, in addition to his own Karl Lagerfeld brand, arrived in his Rolls-Royce shortly before 7 p.m., flanked by his personal assistant Sébastien Jondeau. He was greeted by Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo and Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel SAS, alongside a phalanx of the French luxury brand’s senior staff.

Anne Hidalgo and Karl Lagerfeld 
Dominique Maitre

Wearing a silver-embroidered peacoat, Lagerfeld greeted a nine-year-old boy and a 13-year-old girl who had been chosen to attend the ceremony by French charity Les Petits Princes, which arranges exceptional experiences for sick children.
After a 10-second countdown, Lagerfeld and Hidalgo, wearing a gold-embroidered black tweed jacket from Chanel’s 2010 Paris-Byzance Métiers d’Art collection, flipped the switch on the holiday decorations at 7:15 p.m., setting off an explosion of metallic confetti.

The holiday lights on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées. 
Dominique Maitre

The new red color scheme was chosen to match an advertising campaign marking the launch of a limited-edition red bottle of Chanel No.5 perfume available for the holidays. Red banners bearing the label’s double-C

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Galeries Lafayette and Ester Manas to Offer One-Size-Fits-All Fashion

A NEW SIZE: Redefining the age-old “one size fits all” notion, a collection of adjustable dresses, tops and trench coats designed by Ester Manas will be sold at Galeries Lafayette this spring.
“It’s a collection that draws on the idea that all women must be dressed,” explained Manas, winner of the department store’s prize at the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères, France, this year. Pointing to a sweatshirt with a bright red elastic belt, the designer explained that the collection, called “Fashion for All,” is meant to span a range from European size 34 to size 50, thanks to the help of belts, straps and snaps.

A look by Ester Manas, who will create a capsule for Galeries Lafayette. 
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

“We liked this open vision of fashion,” noted Alix Morabito, fashion director of Galeries Lafayette. The department store was interested in pursuing something “playful and very free” for the season, which worked well with Manas’ approach, she added.
The two showed how a gathered shirt sleeve on a cotton dress could be extended to cover part of the arm; the print was stripes of text: “xs, s, m, l, xl, uni.”
Manas also conveyed a body-positive message.
“People can buy the same item…there

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