What ‘Sexual Healing’ Smells Like

Photo Illustration by Elizabeth Brockway/The Daily Beast

The perfume sits rather un-subtly on my nightstand. In thick black capital letters, its label reads, “Sexual Healing.” Nearly everyone who sees the fragrance—friends, dates, even the ConEd employee dispatched to set up my internet—whips out their phone to take a photo of the cheeky sentiment.

True, I have no idea what the late Marvin Gaye smelled like in person, as I was born 11 years after his untimely death. However, I believe the scent manages to encapsulate the aura of one of the greatest, horniest songs in history—in only 50 milliliters.

If you ask Ali Kashani, founder and creator of Art Meets Art, the label that released this fragrance by Christophe Raynaud, Sexual Healing smells like “a gourmand and spicy honey accord that melts with tobacco absolute and vanilla.”

Read more at The Daily Beast.

The Daily Beast — Fashion

BEST DEAL UPDATE:

Sunday Steal Alert: 50% off J. Crew Italian Flannel Suiting

Stretch Italian Wool Flannel Suits – $ 343 w/ GOLDENDEAL ($ 686)

In totally unrelated news, J. Crew just canned their new-ish CEO. He came from West Elm and was in the gig for 16 months.

Anywho, J. Crew is running something called “golden deals” that seem to last for just one day, and today’s is a nifty little seasonal treat for those of us that like to suit up even in the coldest weather.

Dark Charcoal or Night Sky blue. Both Ludlow and Classic jackets and pants.

Their stretch Italian wool flannel suit separates, both in Ludlow slim AND their more generous classic fits, are getting a big 50% off cut. Just use that GOLDENDEAL code at checkout. Sizes are a bit scattered on the classic side, which stinks for those of us with a bit more meat on our frames.

Big thanks to Andrew C. for the tip.

That’s all. Carry on.


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

These NFLers are obsessed with style

On Monday, Giants superstar wide receiver Odell Beckham Jr. strutted into the 49ers’ Levi’s Stadium wearing a yellow double-breasted Calvin Klein suit with a turtleneck and steel-tipped boots. The yacht-chic ensemble cost a reported $ 5,000 — but the headlines it made were priceless. Consider Beckham walking evidence of the shift that’s happening in the NFL….
Fashion News, Photos, and Video | New York Post

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ICYMI: The Best Hyaluronic Serums, Victoria’s Secret Controversy & Wide-Calf Boots

Sure, we’re all glued to our phones/tablets/laptops/watches that barely tell time, but even the best of us miss out on some important #content from time to time. That’s why, in case you missed it, we’ve rounded up our most popular stories of the week to help you stay in the loop. No need to thank …

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Fashionista

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STUDIOUS & White Mountaineering Team up on a Duo of Jackets

Fresh off a collab with adidas, White Mountaineering recently teamed up with Japanese retailer STUDIOUS on a duo of understated jackets. Comprised of an MA-1 Bomber and Down Jacket, the release continues the clean aesthetic of WM to fit the refined styling of the expansive select shop.

Done in classic black and khaki, the MA-1 channels elements of varsity jackets with a loose construction and snap button closure. Branding plays a major part in the design of the piece, as White Mountaineering is clearly spelled out on the back on the back of the jacket. Available in black, red and navy, the hooded Down Jacket is constructed of a high-density nylon that functions with the paneled design and down filling to keep you warm in the colder months ahead.

Check out the collaborative MA-1 Jacket and Down Jacket above and look for them to be available at STUDIOUS locations December 7.

For more contemporary fashion, The Trilogy Tapes returned with a new range of graphic-driven releases.

STUDIOUS Hong Kong
Fashion Walk Shop BG/F
13-15 Cleveland Street
Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
Hong Kong

STUDIOUS Harajuku
1F, 4-26-32, Jingumae
Shibuya, Tokyo
Japan

Click here to view full gallery at HYPEBEAST




HYPEBEAST

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For Victoria’s Secret model Taylor Hill, looking like…

For Victoria’s Secret model Taylor Hill, looking like herself—her best self—is key. The 22-year-old is gearing up to walk in the iconic lingerie brand’s annual runway show for the fifth time next month and like many of her MVP catwalk counterparts, it’s her uniquely striking beauty and natural effervescence that has made her regular among the celebrated bombshell cast. 

Read more.

VOGUE

THE BEST DEAL:

The Webster FW 16

Savannah Engel PR Is Seeking Part-Time Fashion PR Interns To Start ASAP In New York, NY

Start Date: ASAP OR JANUARY 2ND  Savannah Engel PR Team is looking for part time Fashion PR interns starting ASAP. The candidates must be driven, detail-oriented, and punctual with excellent verbal and written communication skills. Previous Fashion PR experience is ideal. For school …

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Ezra Miller’s Puffer Coat Dress Shows How Exciting Gender-Neutral Clothing Can Be

Photo Illustration by Elizabeth Brockway/The Daily Beast

From the moment Ezra Miller stepped onto the red carpet for the premiere of Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald last week, the actor’s Moncler puffer jacket became a sartorial Rorschach test.

Some said Miller’s ribbed black cocoon turned him into a human sex toy. Dr. Who fans saw a dapper Dalek in Miller. A case could be made for Miller looking like robot actor at a fitting for a futuristic production of Henry VIII. Or even a slightly styled-up Handmaid.

One tweet perhaps summed it up best: “Ezra Miller dressed like a sassy sleeping bag last night & somehow managed to pull it off.”

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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The Daily Beast — Fashion

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Is It Worth It: Hermes Ties

In a world of iconic menswear, men’s ties are certainly up there with the Burberry trench coat.  Generally, you know you’re doing something right if an entire industry is here to fake your products and that’s the case with Hermès ties.

In the US, Hermès ties have a price tag of a $ 180. In Europe, it’s a little less. In Australia, it’s a little more but overall, it’s right around that price point. By the way, the brand is called Hermès , not HERMIS and to learn more about how to pronounce luxury brands please check out this video here.

Hermès History

Hermès is a brand who was founded in 1837 by the German-born Thierry Hermès . Initially, it was a manufacturer of harnesses and brittles for the carriage trade. By 1855, they won their first prize for their quality merchandise and soon thereafter, they would start to expand their products and include things like saddle and leather goods. Now I could fill hours with the intricate history of Hermès but in terms of ties and silk, the home of the Hermès silk since 1937 has been the city of Lyon.

Dames Blanches

Dames Blanches by Hermès 

The first silk design Hermès created was actually not for a tie but for a scarf. They are probably even more famous for women than the ties are for men. They’re typically in 70 centimeters by 70 centimeters. The very first pattern showed some women playing a game; the pattern was called Dames Blanches. In 1978, the fifth generation of family owners came in and Jean-Louis Dumas became the chairman of Hermès as well as the creative director. Under his reign, Hermès switched to focus on silk products, leather goods, and ready-to-wear goods. Over the years, Hermès has produced thousands of designs and they’ve become iconic, very recognized and worn by Wall Street bankers, London businessmen, Russian oligarchs, or emerging Chinese upper-classmen.

Jean-Louis Dumas

Jean-Louis Dumas

Is An Hermes Tie Worth The Price?

Well, first we have to determine what you get for that money. The tie production, especially for the printed ties, is vertically integrated. Hermès has their own silkworm plantations in southern Brazil and there they control the spinning of the yarn, the weaving of the yarn, the designs of the silk, the printing, as well as the sales, all the way to the customer. All designs are exclusively designed for Hermès and you can’t find them elsewhere unless they’re knockoffs, of course.

Every season, ten new ones are added as well as old ones are reissued and overall, they’ve probably created more than 75,000 different color schemes. So between the designs and the colors, there’s really a rich archive. Hermès is known for their printed ties especially for their often whimsical animal print ties, horse-inspired prints, as well as geometrical prints, and small micropatterns.

Printed Hermes ties

Printed Hermès ties

Pro: Hermès Uses Silk Screen Printing

Back in the day, it was actually done with hand blocks, today, that is not done anymore. Today, they use screens which are a lot more labor-intensive and therefore more costly than digital printing.

So why does Hermès still use silk screen printing? They believe it produces richer colors in a more high-quality product and I couldn’t agree with them more which is why we, at Fort Belvedere, make all of our silks in a screen print and not digital print. All famous Hermès ties are printed on a rather lightweight silk twill that has a little bit of gum added back to it so it has a really soft touch that is not dry at all. When you touch an Hermès tie, it has a very typical feel, it’s not super gummy like old madder silk ties, but it’s also not like a jacquard woven tie, it’s something in between, that is special for Hermes and that they want to keep secret which is one of the reasons that’s vertically integrated. A true connoisseur will likely always be able to determine whether it’s a fake or not based on the way the silk feels in their hand.

All Hermes ties are silk screen printed

All Hermès ties are silk screen printed

It’s hard to describe but it’s something you have to develop over time. Every Hermès tie is made out of two panels of silk, not three, like most ties but also not like one like very expensive ties. The only difference is basically that you need more silk, the fewer pieces you use for each individual tie. Making a tie out of two pieces is totally fine and has no impact on the quality.

Pro: The Fabric Is Cut Intricately

The next step, the fabric is cut. Hermès ties often feature specific model numbers with the logo printed in the silk and because of that, they have to be cut very accurately otherwise, the finished product won’t have lines that are very neat. That’s another way to make it difficult for fakers because often times, they get these little details wrong but Hermes always gets them right.

Once a tie is cut, you add two layers of interlining that gives the tie the feel and the springiness. Hermès ties are three-fold ties and they’re hand sewn with a thread that is a hundred and seventy centimeters long, that’s about five foot and seven inches. All Hermes ties contain a little loop at the bottom and because that loop stitch ties are flexible. Many quality ties are sewn in that way so I’m not surprised to see that from an Hermès tie.

A closer look at an Hermes tie

A closer look at an Hermès tie

Pro: Hermès Pays Great Attention to Detail & Quality

It’s even little things such as the label which sits eight inches from the bottom and is sewn on in four spots or the model number in this little box which is neatly aligned with the edge and not crooked. Also, that keeper tag is woven and not printed and has very specific elements that are different with the different ties. So a woven tie will have a different label than a printed animal tie which is different again to a heavy printed twill silk.

The same is true for the backside tip lining of the tie; with printed ties, it’s a solid color versus with woven ties, it’s a kind of golden H symbol that you see and again, every tie is slightly different and only Hermès knows what they do for each specific tie. Fakers, on the other hand, don’t and so they often get it mixed up. So objectively, when you get an Hermès tie, you get a high-quality product.

Con: Limited Fold & Width Options

What you don’t get is a sevenfold, eightfold, nine-fold, or tenfold tie. You also don’t get a tie that comes in very many widths. By default, most Hermès ties are eight centimeters wide, they have some that are seven centimeters, and some ties that are less and in this day and age, it’s hard to find a nine centimeter Hermès tie.

The Hermes brand logo

The Hermès brand logo on the keeper tag

Con: Limited Length Options

Their general tie is about 60 inches long or 152 centimeters, I say about because a tie is always cut on the bias which makes it very flexible but when you lay it down it’s a little stretchy and so you never get the exact measurement from each tie to another. Online, they have a very small section of ties that are longer but they do not have ties for shorter men which is a shame because if you’re a shorter man, you need a tie that it’s shorter otherwise, you end up with a large tie knot that simply doesn’t flatter your silhouette Because of that at Fort Belvedere, we created ties in short regular and long and not just for certain models but for all the models.

A variety of Hermes ties

A variety of Hermès ties

Con: Limited Variety

You’re also somewhat limited in terms of variety with Hermès ties. Yes, they have many patterns, many prints, they come in quite a few colors, at the same time, they always print it on the same silk twill. If you look at Hermès’ woven ties, they’re usually small jacquard patterns, some geometrical patterns, the occasional stripe, but you don’t find elaborate stripes there, you don’t find repp ties, you don’t find grenadine ties or mohair ties, wool ties, they sometimes have cashmere ties, but again, it’s very limited. On the other hand, if you want to experiment more with your tie silks and maybe have a shantung fabric or a grenadine wool silk mohair blend, Hermes is not the brand for you.

 

 

Should You Buy An Hermes Tie?

If you’re someone who really likes printed whimsical motifs, these little animal prints, then Hermès is definitely the way to go. Also, if you’re looking for more unusual colors such as fuchsia ties or chartreuse green, maybe some orange tones, Hermès will likely have a shade that you can get. Also, if you’re a Wall Street banker or if you work in finance and you want to fit in with your company culture, an Hermès tie is certainly the way to do that.

That being said, personally, I’m not a big fan of whimsical motifs on ties and I prefer different textures so Hermes ties are not the ideal tie for me. I have a bunch of them including vintage ones and new ones but frankly, I don’t wear them a whole lot anymore. The ones I wear the most are probably the woven ties, they are somewhat simple and don’t look like a typical Hermes tie. With many other luxury products, you pay a lot for the name but you get average to mediocre quality.

Hermes tie box

Hermes tie box

On the other hand, with an Hermès tie, you certainly pay for the name but you also get a quality product. On top of that, genuine Hermès ties usually yield quite high prices even when they’re used. Of course, they have to be in pristine condition which ties rarely are if you actually wear them and on top of that, you have to prove that it’s actually a genuine product which can be very hard unless you have the specific receipt with a photo of the tie.

Of course, if you give all the Hermès ties you don’t want any longer to a store, they have to mark them up and ultimately, you don’t get much for used Hermès ties anyways. Also if you’re shorter than 6 foot or 183 centimeters, Hermes ties may be too long for you and all you can do is tie a really big knot which may often not work with your head size. Also, if you’re really tall and you want more variety in your ties, Hermes is not the right place for you.

Different Hermes ties

Different Hermès ties

Also, building up an entire Hermès tie collection can be rather expensive. If you buy 12 ties, you’re already down more than $ 2,000. Now they certainly use high-quality materials including their silk but when I was looking for silks for our Fort Belvedere ties, I met Weavers who would actually produce jacquard woven silks for Hermès and we get ourselves from the same vendor at the same quality standards yet Fort Belvedere ties cost a lot less especially if you buy more and get the volume discount. Hermès , on the other hand, doesn’t offer any volume discount.

CONCLUSION

At the end of the day, to me personally, Hermès ties are mostly not worth it simply because I prefer a 9-centimeter width and I prefer different textures. On top of that, I want ties in different lengths because depending on an outfit and the rise of my trousers I don’t always want a consistent tie length and Hermès is not able to deliver that to me.

That being said, if you’re about 6 foot tall or 180 centimeters, Hermès ties will work for you in height and if you like their motifs and their flashy colors it’s definitely an option for you. Bear in mind that you can always sell them at a higher price if you don’t like them anymore. Of course, only if you can prove that it’s a genuine product and not a fake.

What do you think of Hermès ties? Share your thoughts in the comments below!


Gentleman’s Gazette

MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!

‘Tidelands’ star Elsa Pataky shares her Spain-inspired style picks

In the past two months, Elsa Pataky has jetted to San Sebastián for a film festival, Santorini on a girls’ trip and Morocco with her family. The 42-year-old model and actress, best known for the “Fast and the Furious” franchise, shares these adventures with her 2.4 million Insta followers. But home base is Australia’s Byron…
Fashion News, Photos, and Video | New York Post

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Holiday Party Sportcoats, UK Made Dress Shoes, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful

Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. 

 

J. Crew: 35% off select w/ READYTOPARTY

J. Crew

That 35% off code makes me think of this:

Or, this.

Anyway, I do believe this is the first time this season that J. Crew’s party-ready, velvet shawl collar sportcoats have gone on sale. And there’s time to get em’ in the door and tailored before the mistletoe gets hung. Nice to see their Oar Stripe collection getting the cut as well. Big thanks to Brandon D. for the tip!

 

Massdrop: Made in the UK Loake Cap Toes – $ 239.99 FINAL ($ 360)

Made in the UK Loake Cap Toes

Goodyear welted, Made in the UK, and your choice of either a smooth leather sole, or a studded dainite sole for grip. It IS UK sizing though. So, most are gonna wanna size down a full size. Just be careful with that. Estimated ship date is December 19th. Final sale of course since it’s Massdrop.

 

GAP: 40% off Everything no exclusions w/ GIFT

GAP

Exclusion free? That means even their excellent, do anything casual – smart casual belts are getting the cut (leather accessories are usually excluded).

 

Allen Edmonds: $ 100 off Nomad Chelseas

AE Nomad Chelseas

The pearl clutching over the “new” Allen Edmonds has really hit a fever pitch. Its become a tiresome sport now, by some, to rag on what Allen Edmonds has been up to. Yes, some of it isn’t good. But that doesn’t mean the whole company is aflame. Yet. And I’ve had good luck with the Nomad collection. Super comfortable and wearable. And no, the “featherwelt” construction isn’t a cemented construction. It’s 360 Goodyear. Look, I hate to be an Allen Edmonds apologist. I don’t like everything the new owners (Caleres) are doing. But there’s still plenty to really like about AE. To me. For now.

 

Club Monaco: Extra 30% off Sale Items

Club Monaco

There doesn’t seem to be a ton in the Club Monaco sale section right now? But an extra 30% off is always appreciated. Some tempting cold weather stuff too, like that plaid coat and that wide color selection for their simple snap wrist gloves. No code needed here. Extra 30% off happens at checkout.

 

BONUS  Brooks Brothers: 30% off Select Sportcoats, 2 1818 suits for $ 1499

Big fan of Brooks Brothers sportcoats. Regent fit is more of an athletic fit, while the Milano is a true slim. Lots of exclusions, but there are some great looking jackets in there.

 

Also worth a mention:


Dappered Style Mail

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Chanel’s Newest Flagship Features Exclusive Merchandise and a 60-Foot-Tall Pearl Necklace

When it comes to Chanel, only the best of the best will do — which is why the French house recently shut down its 57th Street flagship store in New York City, first opened in 1996, to give it a refresh.  The brand tapped architect Peter Marino, a longtime collaborator, to take on the space …

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Gentleman of Style: James Dean

James Dean was the quintessential Hollywood bad-boy of the 1950s. But who was the young man behind the legacy–and what style lessons can we learn from him?

James Dean in his iconic ensemble from the 1955 film, Rebel Without a Cause.

James Dean in his iconic ensemble from the 1955 film, Rebel Without a Cause.

Gentleman of Style: James Dean

Best remembered for his star-making turn as disaffected outcast Jim Stark in the 1955 film, Rebel Without a Cause, and for his whirlwind life that was cut short at just 24 years of age, the casual cool of James Dean still looms large over the popular consciousness. With this in mind, there are several style lessons to be learned from this bad-boy of the silver screen–and despite being outside the typical mold for an entry in this series, we believe he can still unquestionably be considered a Gentleman of Style.

Early Life – From Indiana Farm Boy to Aspiring Actor

James Byron Dean was born on February 8, 1931, in Marion, Indiana, the only child of Winton Dean, a farmer, and Mildred Marie Wilson. Six years after his father had left farming to become a dental technician, Dean moved with his family to Santa Monica, California.

The family spent several years there, and by all accounts, Dean was very close to his mother; he was devastated when she died of uterine cancer when Dean was nine years old. Unable to care for his son, Dean’s father sent him to live with his aunt and uncle back in Fairmount, Indiana.

A young Dean plays on his aunt and uncle's farm in Fairmount, Indiana, c. 1943 (Image: Michael Ochs Archives/Getty)

A young James Dean plays on his aunt and uncle’s farm in Fairmount, Indiana, c. 1943 (Image: Michael Ochs Archives/Getty)

In school, Dean was a good student and socially well-liked, playing baseball and varsity basketball, studying drama, and competing in public speaking. After graduating from Fairmount High School in 1949, he moved back to California to live with his father and stepmother.

He enrolled in Santa Monica College, majoring in pre-law, but then transferred to UCLA and changed his major to drama, which resulted in estrangement from his father. While at UCLA, Dean was picked from a group of 350 actors to portray Malcolm in Macbeth and participated in acting workshops on campus. In January 1951, he dropped out of UCLA to pursue a full-time career as an actor.

Dean poses in his Fairmount High Quakers basketball uniform, c. 1948 (Image: Michael Ochs Archives/Getty)

Dean poses in his Fairmount High Quakers basketball uniform, c. 1948 (Image: Michael Ochs Archives/Getty)

Film & Television Career – Game Shows, TV Dramas, and Hollywood Stardom

Dean’s first television appearance was in a Pepsi-Cola commercial, and his first speaking role was as John the Apostle, in an Easter television special dramatizing the Resurrection of Jesus. Dean subsequently obtained minor and uncredited walk-on roles in five films between 1951 and 1953. While struggling to get jobs in Hollywood, Dean also worked as a parking attendant at CBS Studios, during which time he met Rogers Brackett, a radio advertising executive, who offered him professional guidance.

A publicity still from Dean's appearance on a 1951 episode of the "Schlitz Playhouse of Stars" (Image: Getty)

A publicity still from Dean’s appearance on a 1951 episode of the “Schlitz Playhouse of Stars” (Image: Getty)

In October 1951, following the encouragement of Brackett, Dean moved to New York City, where he first worked as a stunt tester for the game show Beat the Clock. He also appeared in episodes of several CBS television series, such as Studio One and Lux Video Theatre, before gaining admission to the Actors Studio to study method acting under Lee Strasberg.

Proud of this accomplishment, Dean referred to the Actors Studio in a 1952 letter to his family as “the greatest school of the theater. It houses great people like Marlon Brando…Very few get into it…It is the best thing that can happen to an actor. I am one of the youngest to belong.” Dean’s career picked up, and he performed in further episodes of such television shows as Kraft Television Theatre. One early role, for the CBS series Omnibus, saw Dean portraying the type of disaffected youth for which he would later become famous.

An early publicity photo of Dean, from 1953.

An early publicity photo of Dean, from 1953.

East of Eden – Dean’s Major Film Breakthrough

In 1953, director Elia Kazan was looking for an actor to play the role of Cal Trask, an emotionally complex young man who is bothered by the mystery of his supposedly dead mother, in the adaptation of John Steinbeck’s 1952 novel East of Eden. Kazan said that he wanted “a Brando” for the role, and the screenwriter suggested Dean. Steinbeck, who met with Dean, did not like him personally but thought him to be perfect for the part. Dean was cast in the role and on April 8, 1954, left New York City and headed for Los Angeles to begin shooting.

Julie Harris and James Dean in East of Eden, from 1955.

Julie Harris and James Dean in East of Eden, from 1955.

Much of Dean’s performance in the film is unscripted; his most famous improvisation occurs during a heated moment between Cal and his father. Instead of running away as the script called for, Dean instinctively turned to actor Raymond Massey, lunged forward, and grabbed him in a full embrace, crying. Kazan kept this and Massey’s shocked reaction in the film.

In recognition of his performance in East of Eden, Dean was nominated posthumously for the 1956 Academy Awards as Best Actor in a Leading Role, the first official posthumous acting nomination in Academy Awards history. East of Eden was the only film starring Dean that he would see released in his lifetime.

James Dean and Raymond Massey, in the climactic scene from "East of Eden."

James Dean and Raymond Massey, in the climactic scene from East of Eden.

Rebel Without a Cause – The Quintessential Dean Performance

Dean’s next film, Rebel Without a Cause (1955), would become hugely popular among teenagers, largely for its representation of teenage angst. As Jim Stark, Dean gave the quintessential performance of a restless teenager, hiding behind a mask of casual indifference while yearning for love, purpose, and recognition. In the film’s opening scene, a drunk Jim slouches on a curb, holding onto a toy monkey. The conservative tan suit he wears marks him as an adult, but his movements are those of a frightened child.

Jim suffers emotionally because of his father’s weakness and is determined not to become like him. He seeks out one daredevil challenge after another, falls in love with Judy (Natalie Wood), and along with her and social outcast Plato (Sal Mineo), finds himself wrapped up in a night of gang violence and murder–his search for purpose in an uncaring world forcing him to navigate an environment of emotional darkness and ambiguity.

Dean in an iconic publicity still from Rebel Without a Cause, wearing his signature red Harrington jacket.

Dean in an iconic publicity still from Rebel Without a Cause, wearing his signature red Harrington jacket.

Giant – Dean’s Final Film

Following the successes of Eden and Rebel, Dean wanted to avoid being typecast as a rebellious teen, and hence took on the role of Jett Rink, a Texan ranch hand, in Giant (1956). The movie portrays a number of decades in the lives of Bick Benedict, a Texas rancher, played by Rock Hudson; his wife, Leslie, played by Elizabeth Taylor; and Rink. To portray an older version of his character in the film’s later scenes, Dean dyed his hair gray and shaved some of it off to give himself a receding hairline.

Dean received his second posthumous Best Actor Academy Award nomination for his role in Giant. At the time of his death, he was set to star as Rocky Graziano in Somebody Up There Likes Me (1956); that film went on to earn both commercial and critical success, winning two Oscars, with Paul Newman playing the role of Graziano.

Dean as Jett Rink in Giant, from 1956 (Image: Warner Bros.)

Dean as Jett Rink in Giant, from 1956 (Image: Warner Bros.)

James Dean’s Death – A Racer Passes on the Highway

A fan of auto racing since his childhood, Dean became interested in developing a racing career. Beginning in 1954, he purchased various vehicles after filming for Eden had concluded, including a Triumph Tiger T110 motorcycle and a Porsche 356. Just before filming began on Rebel, he competed in his first professional event in Palm Springs, California, winning first place in the novice class and second place at the main event. His racing continued in Bakersfield a month later, where he finished first in his class and third overall.

Dean hoped to compete in the Indianapolis 500, but his busy schedule made it impossible. Dean’s final race occurred in Santa Barbara, California, in May 1955; he was unable to finish the competition due to a blown piston. Following this,  the Warner Bros. studio barred him from all racing during the production of Giant. Dean had finished shooting his scenes, and the movie was in post-production when he decided to race again.

James Dean astride a motorcycle.

James Dean astride a motorcycle.

Dean was scheduled to compete at a racing event in Salinas, California on September 30, 1955. Accompanying the actor to the occasion was stunt coordinator Bill Hickman, Collier’s magazine photographer Sanford Roth, and Rolf Wütherich, the German mechanic from the Porsche factory who maintained Dean’s Porsche 550 Spyder, which Dean referred to as his “Little Bastard.” Wütherich, who had encouraged Dean to drive the car from Los Angeles to Salinas to break it in, accompanied Dean in the Porsche. At 3:30 p.m., Dean was ticketed for speeding, and the group continued to travel along U.S. Route 466.

James Dean & Rolf Wutherlich in Dean's Porsche, photographed on what would be Dean's final journey.

James Dean (right) & Rolf Wütherich in Dean’s Porsche, photographed on what would be Dean’s final journey.

At approximately 5:45 p.m., a car was passing through an intersection while turning, ahead of the Porsche. Unable to stop in time, Dean’s Porsche slammed into the driver’s side of the turning car, bouncing across the pavement onto the side of the highway. Wütherich was thrown from the Porsche, while Dean was trapped inside, sustaining numerous fatal injuries including a broken neck; meanwhile, the other driver had only minor injuries.

The accident was witnessed by a number of passersby who stopped to help; despite this, Dean was pronounced dead on arrival shortly after he arrived by ambulance at the Paso Robles War Memorial Hospital at 6:20 p.m. An estimated 600 mourners attended his funeral, while another 2400 fans gathered outside of the building during the procession.

The site of James Dean's fatal crash, now named James Dean Memorial Junction.

The site of James Dean’s fatal crash, now named James Dean Memorial Junction.

Legacy & Impact

American teenagers of the mid-1950s, when Dean’s major films were made, identified with Dean and the roles he played, especially that of Jim Stark in Rebel Without a Cause. The film depicts the dilemma of a typical teenager of the time, who feels that no one, not even his peers, can understand him. Humphrey Bogart commented after Dean’s death about his public image and legacy: “Dean died at just the right time. He left behind a legend. If he had lived, he’d never have been able to live up to his publicity.”

Jim Stark (Dean) and Buzz Gunderson (Corey Allen) in a knife fight in Rebel Without a Cause.

Jim Stark (Dean) and Buzz Gunderson (Corey Allen) in a knife fight in Rebel Without a Cause.

Additionally, numerous commentators have asserted that Dean had a marked influence on the development of rock and roll music. The persona Dean projected in his movies, especially Rebel, influenced many early rock pioneers, most notably Elvis Presley, who said in a 1956 interview for Parade magazine, “I’ve made a study of Marlon Brando…of poor Jimmy Dean…[and] of myself, and I know why girls…go for us. We’re sullen, we’re broodin’, we’re something of a menace…I don’t know anything about Hollywood, but I know you can’t be sexy if you smile. You can’t be a rebel if you grin.”

In their book, Live Fast, Die Young: The Wild Ride of Making Rebel Without a Cause, authors Lawrence Frascella and Al Weisel wrote, “Ironically, though Rebel had no rock music on its soundtrack, the film’s sensibility—and especially the defiant attitude and effortless cool of James Dean—would have a great impact on rock…The industry trade magazine Music Connection even went so far as to call Dean ‘the first rock star.’”

The confident exterior masking a sensitive interior that Dean brought to Rebel Without a Cause would influence musicians like Elvis Presley.

The confident exterior masking a sensitive interior that Dean brought to Rebel Without a Cause would influence musicians like Elvis Presley.

James Dean’s Signature Style

Dean was a studious and accomplished method actor, but perhaps more than his talent, it’s his natural charisma, as an avatar for rebellious youth, that shines through today. He didn’t abide by Hollywood standards of the time, preferring to live by his own rules. Many of the biggest male movie stars of the 1950s, such as Humphrey Bogart, Gary Cooper, or Cary Grant, were of the previous generation and represented “old Hollywood” with their side-parted hairstyles and tailored suits.

Meanwhile, Dean took a much more relaxed approach to dressing; he would show up to his early castings barefoot with safety pins holding together his torn trousers, and arrive at lunch dates shirtless and wearing old jeans. His disheveled appearance combined with his emotionally vulnerable screen performances did much to define a new era of masculinity, characterized by a rugged blend of machismo and sensitivity.

Dean in a heavily worn shirt on the set of Giant.

Dean in a heavily worn shirt on the set of Giant.

Dean’s personal style was inherently casual, and it’s likely that the years he spent on an Indiana farm influenced his largely function-first wardrobe. The bright red blouson in Rebel will forever be his signature look, but Dean wore a number of other lightweight jackets of greater versatility, including a tan suede jacket (in the same film), and a leather biker jacket with fur collar (clearly inspired by his hero, Marlon Brando) that helped to popularize the leather jacket as a wardrobe staple.

And where, prior to the ‘50s, the T-shirt was considered an undergarment, Brando changed that in A Streetcar Named Desire (1951), and Dean continued the trend in his own films. He likely favored T-shirts for their ease and simplicity, pairing them with denim, boots or penny loafers, and a cigarette. Today, an outfit consisting of jeans and a T-shirt is the norm for a great many men, but in Dean’s time, it was an act of defiance, taking considerable courage to wear.

Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire in a non-white T-Shirt

Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire in a T-Shirt; Brando (and this look) would be a major influence on Dean.

When dressing more conventionally, Dean’s fashion still remained true to his credo of simplicity and functionality. He could wear a standard suit (as in the opening scenes of Rebel), or go for a semi-formal ensemble: a sport coat or blazer in a color like brown or navy, a button-down shirt, khakis, and loafers. He was rebellious in his clothing choices but always projected a simple and masculine image. Simply stated, James Dean was an individual.

James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, wearing a sports coat, odd trousers, and collared shirt.

James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, wearing a sports coat, odd trousers, and collared shirt.

Harrington Windbreaker

As stated above, no singular piece of clothing is more indelibly linked to James Dean than the red Harrington windbreaker he wore in Rebel. The Harrington (named for its association with the character of Rodney Harrington on the 1960s TV series Peyton Place, and alternatively called a blouson) is a lightweight, waist-length piece of outerwear that layers quite well, especially in the cooler seasons.

James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, sporting his iconic ensemble of red Harrington jacket, white T-shirt, jeans, and boots.

James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause, sporting his iconic ensemble of red Harrington jacket, white T-shirt, jeans, and boots.

You can channel Dean directly by getting one in bright red, but other colors like beige, burgundy, or navy will be more versatile. Similarly, wearing it with a T-shirt, jeans, and boots will give you a distinctly ‘50s vibe, but the Harrington can be layered equally well with button-up shirts like flannels, odd trousers, and derby shoes or loafers. Alternatively, you can try a related piece of outerwear–such as a suede bomber jacket–paired with denim, for an even more rugged look.

A modern Harrington jacket in burgundy.

A modern Harrington jacket in burgundy.

Jeans

As with the T-shirt, denim blue jeans have been a core piece of the modern American wardrobe since the 1950s, and Dean’s performance in Rebel did much to establish them as such. He wore a straight cut (not too loose or too tight throughout the leg) with a high rise, and in a medium blue wash; this classic style is still produced by many brands today, such as Levi’s and American Apparel. In particular, the Levi’s style known as the 501 was worn by Dean and is available today, and can be found in a large variety of different colors, including blue, indigo and dark washes.

James Dean shows off the fit of his blue jeans in Rebel Without a Cause.

James Dean shows off the fit of his blue jeans in Rebel Without a Cause.

Given the time period in which he lived, Dean’s trousers had a fuller cut and a higher rise on the torso than what would be typical today. You can opt for a pair with a high rise to directly replicate a ’50s aesthetic, and combine it with classic loafers and a braided belt. For a more modern take, go for a pair with a contemporary rise, in a darker wash and tapered closer to the ankle.

In either case, your jeans should project an effortless, working-man masculinity. Layer your outfit with a leather jacket, and finish with some leather boots for an ensemble worthy of Dean (or Marlon Brando). Finally, cuff or pin-roll your jeans to show off your footwear and add an additional flair.

T-Shirt

Along with Marlon Brando, James Dean transformed the white T-shirt from a piece of utilitarian underwear to its current role as the backbone of hyper-casual attire. While we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette don’t often advocate for the T-shirt to be worn on its own as outerwear, its popularity as such can’t be denied, and if you’re going for the type of simplistic, rebellious, masculine look that Dean made famous, a T-shirt is an essential piece.

Dean on the set of Rebel Without a Cause, in a simple white T-shirt.

Dean on the set of Rebel Without a Cause, in a simple white T-shirt.

Still: as with any other type of garment, fit is key. Dean wore T-shirts that were well-fitted through the chest, with armholes that accentuated his arms without hugging them. If you do plan to wear a T-shirt visibly, don’t go for the same type of undershirt that you’d get in a multi-pack at Target or Wal-Mart; instead, spend a few more dollars to get something that will flatter your form and stand up to multiple launderings. To channel Dean directly, pair the tee with traditional blue jeans and boots. For a more contemporary look, dark denim with a slimmer (but not skinny) fit would be a good option.

Boots

In Rebel Without A Cause, Dean rounded out his iconic combination of Harrington, T-shirt, and jeans with a dark pair of leather engineer boots. Whether you’re deliberately attempting such a look or not, leather boots should be a staple of any man’s footwear collection, as they’re versatile in terms of formality and types of trousers, incredibly comfortable, and highly durable; a quality pair, maintained well, can last multiple decades.

Leather engineer boots worn with cuffed denim jeans, as James Dean did in Rebel Without a Cause.

Leather engineer boots worn with cuffed denim jeans, as James Dean did in Rebel Without a Cause.

One of the most popular styles of leather boot today is the Chelsea boot, which pairs equally well with dress trousers, semi-formal pants, and denim. Picking up a pair of Chelsea boots (or other related styles) in both black and brown will provide your wardrobe with a surprising number of additional combinations.

Just remember: quality footwear is an investment, and boots are no exception. Snapping up any random pair you see on sale will only guarantee that you’ll have to buy another new pair in just a few months or years. Instead, buy from a reputable source that uses the highest quality materials, and you’ll save money in the long run, in addition to looking your best.

Chelsea Boot, George Boot & Jodhpur Boot

Chelsea Boot, George Boot & Jodhpur Boot

Polo Shirt

When not wearing a simple T-shirt, Dean could frequently be seen wearing its slightly dressier sibling, the polo, adopting the preppy look that defined his generation. Such a look is incredibly simple to achieve, and it’s entirely timeless. Dark, solid colors are the safest and most versatile options and can be worn tucked or untucked, depending on the formality level of your overall outfit.

James Dean in a polo shirt and jeans.

James Dean in a polo shirt and jeans.

Polo shirts can pair easily with both cotton trousers (be they flannels, khakis, or chinos), as well as with denim; their versatility is what makes them a true style staple. Properly fitted polos made from lightweight weaves can be worn with dark-wash jeans and leather or suede shoes for a casual look. Alternatively, layer a polo under a sports coat or sweater, and pair it with odd trousers and loafers, for a more semi-formal ensemble that’s still relaxed.

Sven Raphael wearing Fort Belvedere Driving Gloves and a green polo shirt.

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing Fort Belvedere Driving Gloves and a green polo shirt.

Sweaters

From his first starring role in East of Eden to his iconic 1954 photo shoot for LIFE magazine entitled “Torn Sweater,” Dean was also frequently seen in knitwear. In the case of the former, he wore a buff-colored V-neck over a white dress shirt, paired with khakis. For the latter, as the title would suggest, a worn and frayed black mock-turtleneck was the centerpiece of the outfit.

Dean wearing a buff-colored sweater with khakis and a collared shirt in East of Eden.

Dean wearing a buff-colored sweater with khakis and a collared shirt in East of Eden.

Each of these styles of sweater, while vastly different in attitude, is still versatile; as such, men looking to try Dean-inspired knitwear could opt for a neutral-toned sweater (either V-neck or crew-neck), paired with any color of khaki, chino, or even denim. Alternately, a black (or similarly dark) turtleneck could be paired with some black odd trousers or dark wash denim for a reserved, monochromatic look.

You’ll be safest with knitwear when avoiding more extravagant shades, and instead sticking to a color palette of grays, blacks, browns, blues, and greens. Such colors are fairly universal with odd trousers and boots, ensuring a variety of stylish combinations.

A moody Dean in a black turtleneck for the LIFE magazine photo shoot, "Torn Sweater."

A moody Dean in a black mock-turtleneck for the LIFE magazine photo shoot, “Torn Sweater.”

Breton shirt

Hailing from the Brittany region of France, the first iteration of Breton shirts were designed with tightly knit, locally sourced wool to protect fishermen from biting winds and water, and eventually evolved into a blue-and-white striped shirt. Sailors have sported the look since the start of the 19th century, and in 1858, the garments were officially adopted as part of the French naval uniform. Coco Chanel first brought Breton shirts into the realm of popular fashion, and from there, they were adopted by such icons as Audrey Hepburn, John Wayne, and of course, James Dean.

Dean in a Breton shirt with a blue, polo-style collar.

Dean in a Breton shirt with a blue, polo-style collar.

Stripes are considered by some men to be difficult to pull off, but this doesn’t have to be the case; for those just starting to integrate the pattern into their wardrobes, going for garments with narrow stripes and simple color combinations can be a great first step–and we can look to James Dean and his fondness for Breton shirts as an example.

A long-sleeved shirt inspired by the original Breton style would be an easy way to incorporate stripes into your wardrobe.

A long-sleeved shirt inspired by the original Breton style would be an easy way to incorporate stripes into your wardrobe.

Sunglasses & Eyeglasses

Whenever you spend time in the sun (especially during the summer months), sunglasses are both functional and stylish, protecting your eyes and adding an unmistakable element of cool. Dean knew this, and he often sported a pair of round, tinted sunglasses with a thin metallic frame. While such styles remain popular and perfectly smart today, you can feel free to choose any type of sunglasses you like–so long as they fit your face shape and skin tone well.

James Dean wearing his preferred style of sunglasses.

James Dean wearing his preferred style of sunglasses.

In addition to wearing sunglasses when outdoors, Dean also wore a pair of round, tortoise-shell eyeglasses, especially when reading. That he could pair a quite traditional style of eyeglasses with his otherwise casual look is a testament to his inherent sense of style. In either case, you can try pairing your eyewear with a casual shirt, like a T-shirt, polo, or Breton.

Dean wears a pair of tortoise-shell eyeglasses to read a book of poetry.

Dean wears a pair of tortoise-shell eyeglasses to read a book of poetry.

Especially when outdoors and wearing sunglasses in the summer, wearing a lighter fabric (such as linen) is a great way to stay cool and maintain a smart aesthetic. In this latter case, consider a pair of light blue jeans, as their brighter color will harmonize with the summery atmosphere of your look.

James Dean, Harrington jacket, denim blue jeans, white T-shirt, pol;o shirt, Breton shirt, V-neck sweater, mock-turtleneck sweater, engineer boots, sunglasses, eyeglasses, pomade

Hairstyle

Though perhaps not quite to the same degree as for his clothing, Dean was definitely famous for his hair. His disheveled, quiff-like pompadour projected a devil-may-care vibe, in line with the rest of his sartorial choices. Before Dean, the quiff wasn’t a popular style; it would have been considered too unprofessional for most men. Ever one to forge his own path, Dean made the style his own, and it’s since become a popular choice for many, particularly exploding in popularity in the last 10-15 years.

James Dean's signature hairstyle.

James Dean’s signature hairstyle.

If you do decide to change up your hairstyle to be more like Dean’s, go to a skilled stylist who can cut your hair to the right length, with the bangs somewhere between your eyebrow and the bottom of your eye, and the back and sides scissor-cut and relatively long, to create a rounded look from the front.

After a cut and a shower, simply take a small amount of pomade and work it into your hands to get the pomade warm. Work the pomade into your hair evenly, making sure all of the hair has some product in it. Then, take a hair dryer and a comb or brush, and on a low heat, blow dry your hair and style it as desired. A bit of hairspray for hold, and the James Dean look is yours.

James Dean and Corey Allen wearing quiff/pompadour hairstyles in Rebel Without a Cause.

James Dean and Corey Allen wearing quiff/pompadour hairstyles in Rebel Without a Cause.

Conclusion

While the word “icon” has become especially overused in recent decades, it’s undeniable that the term suits James Dean–whether it’s because of his genuine talent as an actor, or the fact that his death at 24 left him frozen in time in the minds of the movie-going public. The combination of his rebellious characters and his casual style was a perfect storm for inspiration.

His style has a largely timeless quality, featuring simple pieces rooted in their functionality and versatility. Watch any of his films or peruse a few photos, and his confidence and cool shine through. Do you have a favorite James Dean performance or wardrobe item? Share with us in the comments.


Gentleman’s Gazette

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A First Look at Virgil Abloh’s Limited Social Studies New York T-Shirt Design

During this weekend’s eagerly-awaited Social Studies event, attendees will have the chance to meet with some of the biggest names in the youth culture, customize a variety of garments and listen to exclusive talks between creatives. They’ll also have the opportunity to grab exclusive merch, including this duo of Virgil Abloh-designed T-shirts. Emblazoned with “STUYVESANT LEADER PHYSICAL ED.” verbiage, the red/yellow and black/white shirts juxtapose the collegiate text on the front with the logos of every single event contributor on the rear, making for a crowded, yet communal, design.

All proceeds of the $ 100 USD shirt will go to Casita Maria, a Bronx-based youth charity. Guests will be able to grab their choice of tee at the event this weekend, November 16-18.

Most recently, Abloh got into hot water over his work on Serena Williams’ GQ cover.

Click here to view full gallery at HYPEBEAST




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She Quit Her Victoria’s Secret Job Over Exec’s Trans Insult

Timothy A. Clary/Getty

Jocelyn Ratzer had just finished her second day at Victoria’s Secret when she got the news that would make her quit.

Leaving her morning shift at an Orlando shopping center on Saturday, the 24-year-old salesperson spotted an interview with Ed Razek—the chief marketing officer of Victoria’s Secret’s parent company—that made her feel sick. In an interview with Vogue, the executive dismissed the idea of casting trans or plus-size models in the company’s annual fashion show, saying the controversial procession of scantily clad models was meant to be “a fantasy.”

“It’s a 42-minute entertainment special. That’s what it is,” Razek said. “It is the only one of its kind in the world, and any other fashion brand in the world would take it in a minute.”

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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The Hydrating, Brightening Serum Steph (and Every Other Beauty Editor) Is Obsessed With

A few months ago, you might have started seeing a certain serum all over the damn place. Buzzily named for “Glass Skin,” the K-beauty complexion ideal, it was developed by Alicia Yoon, who is an esthetician, K-beauty expert and the founder of Peach & Lily. Every single beauty …

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Eyebrow Grooming

A recent study from Canada found that eyebrows are a more identifiable feature than your eyes are. Eyebrows accentuate your eyes and they’re an important aspect of your facial expressions because they communicate emotion.

Groomed brows will give you a neat and polished look but you will still look masculine. As men age generally, the brow hair, nose hair, and ear hair, grow faster so even though you’ve never paid much attention to it now, bear in mind one day, it’ll hit you too.

Why Do You Need To Groom Your Brows?

Basically, it gives your face definition, shape and it enhances the look of it. Overgrown eyebrows definitely have the potential to distract from your face as well as your eyes and leave a negative connotation when people look at you. Even though we don’t think about it much, it really stands out. Think about the guy with a unibrow or the guy with really overgrown eyebrows, it’s just a very bad look.

Is this a good look?

Is this a good look?

Most women groom their eyebrows diligently and they usually have very extreme shapes that are really defined and they pay a lot of attention to them. For men, that’s over the top and the goal is to have some definition but overall, a natural looking shape. That means the lines around your brows shouldn’t be sharp. Also, avoid extreme shapes or angles because that draws attention to your brows.

Overall, eyebrow grooming is as important as other grooming aspects such as your hair, your beard, or your shave, and you can easily combine it, let’s say, with nose hair trimming.

Where Should You Get Your Eyebrows Groomed?

You can get your eyebrows groomed while getting your hair cut

You can get your eyebrows groomed while getting your haircut

1. The Barbershop

First of all, you can do it so at the barbershop while you get your haircut especially if you trust them and they know what you like. Depending on where you go, it can cost anywhere from five to ten bucks. Going to the barber is a particularly good approach for men who have full brows and they just need a little trim, meaning just shorten hairs. It’s also good for men that can just keep the existing brow shape in place without having to make any modifications.

eyebrow threading

eyebrow threading

2. Eyebrow Studio

It’s a great option for men who don’t want to mess it up and want to get exactly the shape that they want by a pro who does nothing but eyebrow grooming. Now generally, they are experts with women so it pays to ask them if they’ve worked with men and ideally show you examples of what they can do so you know exactly what you get before you have your eyebrows groomed.

Sven Raphael & Teresa having an eyebrow grooming session

Sven Raphael & Teresa having an eyebrow grooming session

3. At Home!

The third option is to shape them at home either by yourself or by a partner who is skilled with it. In my experience, this is the best option for the majority of men because you can conveniently do it at home, it’s inexpensive, and it gets you exactly the results you want.

Must-Have Eyebrow Grooming Tools

Stainless eyebrow scissors

Stainless eyebrow scissors

1. Small Pair Of Scissors

You want a very small pair of scissors with a point that allows you to be very accurate. Thicker, more bulky scissors simply won’t work.

You need a comb that is just the right size

You need a comb that is just the right size

2. Stiff Comb

If you have something that’s too small and flexible, it’s going to be hard to get the hair in the right direction. Likewise, a comb that is too big won’t work because it’s too bulky.

3. Trusty Tweezers

You want a quality pair of tweezers such as these ones from a manicure kit that really grips the hair and allow you to pull it out without causing you pain.

Step By Step Eyebrow Grooming

1. Determine The Shape Of Your Brows.

So first, hold your comb vertically over the center of your nostril which determines the length of the inside brow. Of course, you do this on both sides. Some men argue that it looks better to have the brows aligned with the outside of your nostrils. Personally, I think the center of the nostril is better because especially if you have a bigger nose, the center will create a more harmonious look whereas if you have shorter brows on the inside, it will just make your nose look even bigger which is not advantageous.

Align the outside of your nostril with the corner of your eye and where the comb meets the brow, that’s where the brow should end. Align the outside of the nostril with the outside of the iris and where the comb intersects with your brow is where the high point or the peak point of the shape of your eyebrow should be.

Use your comb to make sure you follow the shape of your brow

Use your comb to make sure you follow the shape of your brow

2. The best tool to shape your eyebrows is a pair of tweezers.

You can keep holding your comb into three different positions just so you make sure you don’t forget the shape and you get exactly what you want and something that’s consistent on the left brow as well as on the right brow.

So with the tweezers, I first pull the hair in between my brows then I pull the hair underneath the arch as well as a tail which is the outside edge of the brows. When you use tweezers, you want to grip the hair firmly and then pull in the direction of the hair growth, not too fast, otherwise, you may risk breaking the hair off. Also, avoid pulling it against the growth direction because it may break as well.

3. Trim The Length Of The Individual Hairs.

To do so, break each brow into two sections; the body, which is closest to the nose and a tail which is closest to your ears. For the body, use a fine-tooth comb and comb the hair upwards and towards the center of your face. Start by matching the angle of the comb to the angle of your eyebrow and then slightly tilt it upwards towards the center of your face.

By doing that, you get a little more variation in the length of the hair trim which is better looking because it’s more natural similar to feathering when you get your hair cut. It also helps to maintain a shorter inside length and a longer outside length. Make sure to trim off the hair at that angle but then comb it back down to see the results. Repeat until all the hairs on this side are trimmed and then you move over to the other brow. This way, you can always compare what the final result should look like while you’re still working on it.

Dos & Don’ts Of Eyebrow Grooming

Never attempt to use any kind of razor to groom your brows

Never attempt to use any kind of razor to groom your brows

  • Don’t ever use a razor to groom your eyebrows. I made that mistake once and it looked terrible because it’s very difficult to get the right shape and what happened to me was I just got too far down on one side then I had to reduce it on the other side, I got further down on this side and I had to repeat it on this side, and ultimately, I ended up with very small and unnatural looking eyebrows that were just odd. No matter if you use an electric razor or a wet shaver or a double edge razor, it’s too risky and even if you get it right, you can still see that hair was shaved rather than pulled out which just looks odd.
  • Do restrain yourself while shaping your eyebrows. Less is definitely more because it’s very difficult to get full brow hair to grow back. Just ask any woman who lived through the 90s.
  • Don’t use any electric trimmer. That will either leave gaps or something that looks really unnatural and it’s not at all the look you want.
The top edge of the brow always defines the shape

The top edge of the brow always defines the shape

 

  • Don’t remove any hairs from above the eyebrow. The top edge of the brow always defines the shape and by removing here from the top, you flatten the shape and it looks worse.
  • Do consider using a bit of leftover hair product on your eyebrows. Especially if it’s a styling balm, it can help create a really advantageous look. If you have thick unruly eyebrow hair, you can also use just some specific product, just make sure it’s not gluey and sticky because that looks unnatural. I also try to stay away from any shiny products because it just draws too much attention to my eyebrows.
  • Don’t worry about perfect symmetry between your left and your right eyebrows. Naturally, they’re not the same and even after grooming, they won’t look exactly the same. Rather than going for a clone on both sides, think of it more like siblings that look very similar but are not 100% identical. Now that being said, look at my eyebrows before I groomed them and afterward. I typically have a few hairs that are very long and I just try to get rid of them, trim them nicely, makes a huge difference doesn’t it?

CONCLUSION

While you should not spend as much time and detail on your eyebrows as women do, a little bit of maintenance goes a long way. You just need a little pair of scissors, a small tooth comb, and a pair of tweezers, and again, just like with clothes, it’s all about the details. Be patient, don’t overdo it and when in doubt, less is more!

Do you groom your eyebrows? Share with us your dos and don’ts in the comments below!


Gentleman’s Gazette

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Glamour Women of the Year Awards 2018 Red Carpet Fashion: See Claire Danes, Lili Reinhart and More Stars Arrive

Claire Danes, Glamour Women Of The Year AwardsThe 2018 Glamour Women of the Year Awards returns to New York City tonight with an extra inspirational dose of girl power.
Now in its 28th year and held at Spring Studios, Glamour…

E! Online (US) – Fashion Police

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Guys, here’s how to actually make your beard look good

Don’t ask me why I decided to grow a goatee. It was a long time ago. I was doing a lot of card counting and thought it looked cool. I do, however, know why I decided to ditch the Van Dyke: shame. At work recently, I listened in as a couple of nearby colleagues engaged…
Fashion News, Photos, and Video | New York Post

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Monday Sales Tripod – Nordy Rack’s Clear the Rack, J. Crew Oar Stripe Shoes & Boots Sale, & More

The Thursday Handfuls are great, but what if Monday (or Tuesday) rolls around and there are a few sales that can’t wait til the weekend? You’ll find three of the best, with a few picks from each, to start the week below.

Editor’s Note: Yes we’re posting today. For the last few years we’ve sat the “Veterans Day” sales out because the term just sounds odd (much like Memorial Day sales). But after hearing from more than a few Vets, our silence has probably been misplaced. Word is even stores on Military bases have Veterans Day sales, so, while much of the world sees November 11th (and the observance around it) as a solemn occasion, here in the States it’s a bit different. Our policy on keeping quiet on Memorial Day won’t change, but for Vets day, we’ve been given the green light from you guys in the Military. Thanks for all that you do.

 

#1. Nordstrom Rack: Extra 25% off Clearance Items

Nordstrom Rack

Not only is Nordstrom proper running a big fall sale, their outlet branch Nordstrom Rack is running an extra 25% off clearance items. That means prices that have seriously bottomed out. No code needed here. Prices are as marked online. Sale ends today.

 

#2. Jomashop: Extra 25% off Select Citizen Watches w/ CTZ25

Citizen Watches

Not a bad price for the Nighthawk. And that Promaster certainly could have been included in our recent best desk divers round up.

 

#3. J. Crew: 30% off w/ FRIENDS (or 35% off for rewards members w/FAMILY)

J. Crew

Getting another mention because I don’t recall all of those shoes getting that discount last week when this sale launched? I don’t have any in-person experience with their new oar-stripe shoe collection, but they’re claiming Italian leathers and Goodyear Welts. Don’t forget that you can save 35% (instead of just 30%) by simply signing up for their free rewards program. Prices above reflect that 35% off.

 

BONUS  Lands’ End 50% off Full Price (no limit) w/ GOLD & 9624

I can’t recall the last time Lands’ End did something like this. Usually there’s a caveat of just one item getting the deal when they go half off. So half off all full price items? No limit? Not bad at all.

 

BONUS II  Nordstrom Fall Sale Still Going on

Full picks over here. And as always, everything ships and returns for free thanks to Uncle Nordy.

 

Also worth a mention…


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Inside the Exhibit Where Anna Wintour Watches You From Every Angle

Photo Illustration by The Daily Beast

Just hearing the name “Anna Wintour” can prompt one to sit up straighter. Notorious for her stony demeanor, the matchless editor-in-chief of American Vogue is not just one of the best-known figures in fashion, but a pop-cultural phenomenon in herself.

Her name has become synonymous with fashion insiderism, better-than-thou aloofness, and overworked assistants touting Starbucks coffee cups.

A free-to-enter exhibition from New York City’s THNK1994 Museum and Chicago artist Laura Collins titled “Anna Wintour Double Crossing Her Legs” aims to challenge that image. Over the course of 12 oil acrylic portraits, Collins studied the pretzel-esque, guarded position Wintour is often photographed contorting in during fashion shows.

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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The Daily Beast — Fashion

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ICYMI: How to Shop Moschino x H&M, Every VS Fashion Show Outfit & ComplexCon Street Style

Sure, we’re all glued to our phones/tablets/laptops/watches that barely tell time, but even the best of us miss out on some important #content from time to time. That’s why, in case you missed it, we’ve rounded up our most popular stories of the week to help you stay in the loop. No need to thank …

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Fashionista

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New Balance Decks out the 574 in Swarovski Crystals

Sneaker purveyor New Balance has teamed up with Swarovski crystals to deck out one of its classic models, the NB1 574. Arriving just in time for the holiday season, the limited edition sneaker is featured in four different colorways of “Rosé,” “Peacock,” Black, and Grey. The Swarovski crystals can be found on the updated “N” logo, while premium leather and suede make up other components of the shoe such as the liner, base collar, and tongue. Each sneaker comes with an extra pair of laces to compliment the crystal color along with a special platinum lace jewel, shoe bag, and bespoke box.

These special 574s are exclusively available over NB1 customization platform in the US, Europe, China, Canada, Japan and NewBalance.com for $ 300 USD per pair.

For more sneaker news, Nike officially introduces the 2018 Doernbecher Freestyle Collection.

Click here to view full gallery at HYPEBEAST




HYPEBEAST

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The Sporty Sweater That Will Give Alyssa a Leg Up on Layering This Winter

Ask any fashion enthusiast what their favorite thing about fall and/or winter is, and they’ll likely tell you that it’s the sartorial joy that comes along with ample opportunities for layering. Blouses under sweaters! A denim, fleece or leather jacket under a boxy coat! The possibilities are …

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Fashionista

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How to escape your wardrobe rut and look fabulous at the office

Given the changes sweeping the workplace these days, what’s a woman to wear? That depends. While some fields lend themselves to T-shirts and jeans, others demand a more conservative look. As Gramercy-based lawyer Shermin Lakha puts it: “There’s a certain image that comes to people’s minds when they think of a lawyer.” The Post tapped…
Fashion News, Photos, and Video | New York Post

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Rules of Civility: Business Etiquette At The Office

In a 2011 survey publish at the Monster.com blog, 71% of survey respondents found their coworker’s manners needing improvement or “downright rude.” More than one-quarter of respondents’ co-workers fell into this downright rude category. In this guide to business etiquette in the office, we will show you what your coworkers dislike, how you can improve your manners and you can approach coworkers about problems.

Do we save manners for our personal lives? And if we did, who can blame us? We have little choice at work with whom we work, to whom we report; how many hours we work; what to wear; where to eat; how long we may eat; and whether a company observes and complies with their own policies and procedures.

How Polite Are You & What Your Coworkers Hate The Most

How Polite Are You & What Your Coworkers Hate The Most

We spend more time with co-workers than we do our partners, spouses, family and friends. Permission to speak freely disappears at work. We often go along to get along, not wishing to antagonize an office or cubicle mate. At work, did French philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre have it right? That hell is other people?

Bosses who don’t supervise but instead take hostages; the effluvium put forth by co-workers, whether the stale tang of the not-recently washed or a devotion to Axe body products; other co-workers grousing about the boss, their job, their kids, their body size, their love life, their lack of love life; the seemingly endless improvement programs promulgated by the herd of independent thinking reflected in upper management – decry all of it in the most florid, foulest and loudest terms possible and you will quickly find kindred spirits. Decry you might but at what cost to you? How much stress do we create for ourselves because of how we react to our co-workers?

How can etiquette matter in (American) work environments?

Etiquette at work now seems quaint, like a rotary telephone or manual typewriter. This quaintness may lead us to conclude that the decline of manners has befallen us (again!). But the protean nature of our existence – a relaxed, concerned behavior directed to loved ones and friends versus an uptight, sometimes seething personality at work, cannot hide this simple truth: How we do anything is how we do everything.

How we act at work influences how we act at home. A commitment to better relations at work will improve your love life. But how?

We can master ourselves, only. How we manage ourselves on the job can ensure greater self-confidence, a more relaxed attitude, and, indeed, even a promotion. We endeavor to create an aura of sociability and likeability. If we arrive to work late, we want to have others assume a favorable opinion about us despite the uncertainty of character our lateness suggests.

From the hell of our own co-workers, we may find that etiquette saves us. Whether you view manners as a mask or as a path to increasing enlightenment, acting with regard for others and ourselves will help to create a kinder and nicer office worker.

Business Etiquette Is All About Managing Oneself

Gossip is not appropriate

Gossip is not appropriate

1. Gossip

Gossip gets a bad rap, but gossip can keep us safe. A coworker may steal ideas or work or worse, haze new employees or harangue certain types of co-workers. Sharing these insights, if you think you can do so, can save another coworker from this bully’s actions.

The idle tittle-tattle, though? Proceed cautiously. Loose lips may sink your ship. Sharing facts about another coworker differs from whispered rumor. Both, however, may cause your boss to question you; but fact-based gossip possesses a kind of evenhandedness. Idle rumor seems like whining.

Always be respectful of other people's time

Always be respectful of other people’s time

2. Lateness

Timeliness suggests reliability. If you cannot arrive to work on time, what else can’t you do? We would all delight in a work-place where our co-workers accept all our failings. Better yet, they should make no assumptions about us when we do misstep. Something about pigs flying comes to mind here.

We control many variables in our lives. Timeliness tops the list.

Lateness also suggests you think your time more worthwhile than others. Lateness suggests a kind of time thievery. Perceptions of slackness and lack of attention to detail can also result from lateness.

Lateness practiced with diligence breeds resentment. When you find you legitimately need support from co-workers, less scrupulous co-workers may use the opportunity to expose you even further. Their long-standing resentment has now found an outlet. And thanks to your continued lateness, your boss may very well believe your co-worker. You’ve conditioned your boss to believe you aren’t reliable.

If you find yourself constantly late, determine why. Do you need to set your alarm 10 minutes earlier? Lay out your work clothes before retiring? Prepare your lunch after dinner?

Its important to take care of your nails

Its important to take care of your nails

3. Personal Grooming

Care about your appearance and bodily odors? Good. Your co-workers won’t notice your foul odor. They also won’t stare at the quarter-sized stain on your tie or shirt, either.

Personal grooming says I care enough about me to care about you. If you choose not to bathe, claims of snobbery don’t and won’t matter. Humans judge, constantly. And we judge harshly people who smell, have bad breath, open sores or bite /cut their fingernails at the office. Two men familiar to me refused the habit of regular bathing. Both lost lucrative job promotions to people who clearly had less skill.

Lorenzo Villoresi Colognes

Lorenzo Villoresi Colognes

Strong Colognes, Soaps, and Antiperspirants

We in the U.S. exhibit the doubly odd behavior of washing frequently only to swathe ourselves in a mixture of unnatural, “spring scent” body products.

As with liquor and clothing buy the very best cologne and bathing products you can afford. The better the ingredients, the better the smell. Cheap ingredients create smells that linger, cloy and in more extreme cases, cause eye-tearing and sneezing.

Consider spending more for these products and buy quality products

4. Generosity and Helpfulness

There exists a type of coworker who delights in making others, especially new co-workers, ask questions repeatedly; the kinds of questions that have you thinking, “why didn’t he tell me that when I asked the last question?” To which, if you were to ask, he would reply, “Because you did not ask.”

To be perceived as helpful, we must discern people’s foibles and anxieties and act in ways they find helpful. Have a boss that always forgets to create the agenda for the meeting? Send a reminder to her a week before the meeting. Is a coworker trying to finish up a big project before he leaves on vacation? Offer to take meeting minutes or make copies for the next meeting. After lunch meetings stick around to help clean up.

A willingness to help shows people no task is beneath you. Helpfulness becomes generosity when you offer assistance without another person asking.

5. Personal Disclosure

The Art of Conversation describes the function of small talk in American culture: We use it as a path to creating greater conversational intimacy. At work, however, our conversations rarely go beyond small talk, and with good reason.

Disclosing personal information at work puts us at risk with co-workers with less than noble characters. We cannot choose our co-workers. In our private lives, we choose our friends and life partners with care. Are they kind? Do they listen? Can they keep my confidence?

At work, whether or not your cubicle mate behaves kindly has no bearing on anything. You still must work with him, and work well, too, if you don’t want to hear from your boss. The long hours we spend at work tempt us to share of ourselves details we really ought to share only with significant others or close friends.

We are human. We crave connection and meaning from other humans. But the seemingly idle disclosure about the time you cheated at golf in high school, and even though you are now past 40, can explode in your face. Stories become twisted and misused. People want to behave correctly, but many people think very little of themselves, sadly, and so act accordingly.

Consider yourself lucky if you find a confidant at work. In the meantime, chat with co-workers, contribute to conversations and share of yourself information you feel comfortable sharing with anyone.

Save your humor for coworkers who will understand it for sure

Save your humor for coworkers who will understand it for sure

6. Humor

We can use humor to ease tense interactions, redirect criticism and avoid sounding defensive. We can also use humor to help co-workers to make light of an uncomfortable personal situation.

Sarcasm and irony, two cornerstones of American humor, can be easily misunderstood, even by speakers on of American English. Save that humor for like-minded co-workers. For everyone else, make jokes at your own expense and never make jokes at another’s expense for any reason, ever.

A messy desk

A messy desk

 

7. Messiness

You may live a minimalistic, neatnik life. Others may live maximally. If a coworker’s messiness impacts your job performance, say something. If you find the messiness offensive for aesthetic reasons, you have to address these feelings on your own.

If you can keep yourself organized, do so. We, in the U.S., tend to add a veneer of positive ethical behavior to people who keep their offices neat and tidy, regardless of the actual truth of that belief. As with personal grooming, neatness exudes order and morality. To the degree you can do this, others will think positively of you, too.

8. Patience

It seems we want endless patience from others yet struggle to extend such kindness to others. If we don’t like the person trying our patience, we lose our tempers more quickly. Losing our cool makes us look bad.

If you find yourself short of patience and want to have more of it, spend a week or two doing the following:

  1. Notice your triggers and what causes you to lose patience.
  2. Write down your triggers and determine patterns (time of day, behavior-specific, person-specific).
  3. Vow to change and accept that you may fail.
  4. Try again.
Be considerate of others when having lunch

Be considerate of others when having lunch

9. Eating

Food Smells and Eating at the Desk

According to a DailyMail study commissioned by a soup company, respondents ranked noisy eating as more bothersome than messy, habitually late or whiny co-workers. Sometimes people eat at their desk because they find no peace in the staff lunch room. Other times they do so because they may work for a company that really believes in working lunches.

Just don’t eat loudly.

Food smells also irritate co-workers. What we find tasty and nice smelling we know because of our cultural upbringing. Most Americans wax poetic about bacon; the Spanish feel similarly about olive oil. Microwaving fish in the staff kitchen can cause discord and set the gossip train to run.

Perhaps you can ask your boss to stagger your lunch break so that you won’t be around the offending smells. Or dive deep into yourself. Remind yourself we have no guarantees in life, least of all a life free of things we find stinky.

Consider going retro and actually take a lunch break. You know the one where you get up from your cubicle and leave the building? Might do wonders for both your nose and your stress!

10. Honesty

When might one lie at work reasonably? When does tact become inexpedient?

Some manners experts will tell you never to lie at work. Depending on your cultural context, you may have greater or lesser latitude to fib about people’s haircuts, clothes, family photos, cat videos and other questions you may be asked. In America, we lie constantly on the job. When asked by a coworker how we are, the social script dictates we answer positively. To answer negatively suggests we have a bad attitude. A certain amount of lying comes with working in America.

In more serious matters (financial improprieties, sexual harassment) honesty is probably the best course of action. Exposing a peer may seem easier than a superior. Having discussed such behaviors with the appropriate parties won’t always mean you win, though. Corporate ethics vary. If you work at an unethical company, you may need to polish your resume and seek employment elsewhere.

12. Friendships on the Job

Neither your superiors nor subordinates are your pals. Your boss can fire you, and you may have to fire people who report to you.
And peers, the ones you party with, may engage in unethical or illegal behavior that you will then need to report. They also may have seen you drunk and may use that information against you in the future.

Our relationships on the job remain economic ones. Money mediates all of them. Who can be hired, can be fired. By superior, subordinate or peer.

Romance at the Office - Don't Do It

Romance at the Office – Don’t Do It

13. Intimate Relationships with Co-Workers

Don’t do it. With a superior or subordinate, never. With a peer, what happens if he gets promoted over you and you break up? What if she decides to spread rumors about you to your co-workers, or worse, future employer? Unless you sell your body for a living, sex and work don’t mingle. Just ask those secret service agents about sex and work.

Approaching Co-workers About Problems (a Simple How-to Guide Based on the Principles of Non-violent Communication)

Sometimes we may need to have a difficult conversation with a coworker. We need not suffer in silence. Approach a coworker first to resolve a conflict, before going to your boss. Doing so will show that you have attempted to resolve the problem as professionally as possible.

Ask Yourself Why

As it pertains to other’s behavior, ask yourself why their behavior annoys you. Why, for example, does your co-worker’s messiness irritate you? If you judge her as a slob, then you have little room to discuss changing behaviors because you attack her.

If, however, her disorganization enrages you because it makes you late to meetings or causes you to miss important work deadlines, then you can ask her if she can change her behavior. You have a factual reason for wanting her to modify her behavior.

There are better ways to solve problems at the office - Don't imitate Mad Men

There are better ways to solve problems at the office – Don’t imitate Mad Men

The Mechanics of the Conversation

a. Make Factual Observations

Make factual observations that make you feel a need to speak now. (“Jane, our meeting is in ten minutes and we were supposed to have the agenda to Bob day before yesterday.”) You don’t make an evaluative statement (“That is way too late to get me these agenda items.”)

We value things differently (Jane may have higher priority projects on her list, or she doesn’t report to Bob) but by sharing your observations, you can find common ground with Jane.

b. State How the Observation Makes You Feel

“When you give me the agenda items ten minutes before the meeting and Bob wants them two days ago, I feel anxious. I’m afraid I’ll get in trouble, and I’m afraid my co-workers will think poorly of me.”

c. What Need is Not Being Met

We all have needs on the job, many in fact. For the purposes of this script, needs are always valid. In this particular scenario, you have a need to be seen as considerate and competent
(“I have a need for consideration and competence.”)

d. Ask a Request (Not Make a Request)

“Would you be willing to give me the agenda items a week before the meeting?” To make a genuine request, and not a demand, you must allow Jane to say no. If she does, then you might ask when she can get you those agenda items. If she replies ten minutes before the meeting, and you find you cannot tolerate such behavior, quietly approach Bob and inform him of your communication with Jane. He may decide to approach Jane or her boss (if she reports to someone else) or tell you it isn’t a problem or tell you tough, deal with it. At least you’ve asked respectfully.

Etiquette on the job can help us have better working relationships.

How have you handled difficult co-workers? What behavior at the office bothers you the most? Please reply in the comments below!


Gentleman’s Gazette

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Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!

Marc Jacobs Will Try to Bring Back Grunge. But Did It Ever Leave?

Photo illustration by The Daily Beast/Photos Courtesy Marc Jacobs

It feels like every Forever 21 has stocked a faded black Nirvana smiley face T-shirt since the dawn of time. But it wasn’t too long ago that grunge—or capital-F fashion’s take on the style—was met with downright rage.

Take, for instance, Marc Jacobs’ “Grunge Collection” for Perry Ellis.

By 1993, grunge had infiltrated airwaves, but it had yet to fill department store aisles. True, Courtney Love had already trampled onto the scene in her combat boots and plaid collared dresses, and kids all over the country may have been digging into thrift store bargain bins for a used flannel to emulate their rock heroes. But the fashion world had turned its skinny shoulder to the movement.

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The Daily Beast — Fashion

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Must Read: Burberry Bets on Riccardo Tisci to Drive Turnaround, Hedi Slimane’s First Accessories for Celine Drop Monday

These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Thursday. Burberry bets on Riccardo Tisci to drive turnaround   Riccardo Tisci received a positive reception for his debut collection at Burberry at London Fashion Week in September, but it will take time to turn …

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Fashionista

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Wool Sweaters, Just in Outerwear, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful

Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. 

 

Bonobos: New Arrivals & 25% off $ 175+ w/ QUARTEROFF

Bonobos

Good gravy. (And it is the month for gravy, no?) Bonobos stuff starts out expensive. Real expensive. But the styling sure does appeal to some of you guys, from what I can tell (me too in some cases). 25% off isn’t an extra 40% off sale, but this stuff is just in. And 25% off is better than the normal 20% off code. And it’s that kind of hard-hitting analysis that makes me the clown who runs this ship.

UPDATE: So this is 25% off $ 175+… not just 25% off across the board. Sorry guys, got some bad intel on that one. Anything under $ 175 in the picks above is gonna need an additional small item, from say the sale section, to trip that 25% off.

UPDATE II: Turns out it’ll be 25% off no min between 2pm ET and 4pm ET today?

 

J. Crew: 30% off w/ FRIENDS (or 35% off for rewards members w/ FAMILY)

J. Crew

AND it works on sale stuff too. AND it appears that the classic fit, wider lapel, Moon Mills herringbone blazer is back and up for the code. The darn things aren’t even getting excluded at checkout like they were a couple days back (despite saying they WERE up for the code). So… have at it. Don’t forget that their new rewards program is super easy to sign up for. Just your email and you’re good to go.

 

Huckberry: $ 30 – $ 40 off Buffalo Jackson Bags

Buffalo Jackson

Not the biggest price drop, but they are pretty darn handsome. I think (think?) these are imported from Mexico? Not sure. Free shipping and free returns at least.

 

EXPRESS: 40% off Everything

Express Leather Chukka

Seems like EXPRESS has been doing 40% off quite a bit lately, but, no complaints here. Those Red Wing ripoffs? Total guilty pleasure. They’re not half bad for around $ 80. Somewhere between a boot and a sneaker (the sole is really squishy/foam based). The leather isn’t half bad either. Will they last a lifetime like Red Wings? Of course not. But if you want something a little lighter weight and easier on the wallet, then might be worth a shot. Full review coming soon. Ships and returns for free.

 

GAP: 40% off Everything w/ FFTIME + Extra 10% off w/ BEST

GAP

Was set to expire but they’ve extended it, and added a stackable extra 10% off code. A couple of intriguing new arrivals have hit GAP’s site just in time for their friends and family sale.

 

BONUS Massdrop: UK Made Loake Kempton Chukkas – $ 199.99 FINAL ($ 300)

Loake Kempton Chukkas

They’re back! One heck of a pair of boots for just under $ 200. The problem? It’s friggin’ Massdrop. So it’s final sale. Also, beware of sizing. Sized in UK sizes. Some say go down a full size, some say go down just half a size. Full review here.

 

BONUS II  J.C.F.: 30%40% off Select items w/ 2DAYSONLY

J. Crew Factory seemed to have really cut back on its codes and promos in the fall, so 30% – 40% off feels like a rare treat. Not everything is getting the 40% off cut, but finally some of their fall sportcoats are NOT excluded from a promotion. Big fan of those cotton fisherman sweaters. Especially since they come in a slim fit.

 

Also worth a mention:


Dappered Style Mail

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Low vs. Mid Vs. High Rise Pants: Choosing Your Best Fit

Like lapel width, the rise on a pair of pants is one of those things that go in and out, or rather, up and down, over the decades. But what exactly is it?

When you buy a pair of pants, do you look for the rise? If you are new to the finer points of men’s garments, the rise may not be your first consideration. So, in this article, let’s hike up our pants and address what trouser rise means and what sort of rise is best for you.

Cary Grant in The Red List wearing spectators and full cut trousers

A young Cary Grant in The Red List wearing spectators and full cut trousers that sit on the natural waistline

What is Trouser Rise?

Trouser rise is measured as the distance from the front waistband between the legs to the back waistband.  This may be generically referred to as the “crotch.” Low rise pants have a smaller measurement and sit lower on the torso while higher rise pants have a higher measurement and sit higher on the torso.

This may be in the range from 7-13 inches depending on the size of the pants (smaller sizes have lower rise height).  The waistband of low-rise pants rests at the hip bones, mid-rise between the navel and hip, and high rise at the natural waistline (close to the belly button or directly on it).

Mottled, fainted red jacket with green knit vest - too short, and rise of pants too low

These low rise pants elongate the torso and make the jacket appear very short

To remember this easily, keep in mind the two reference points of hips (low rise) vs. belly button (high rise). Rise height matters because the amount of fabric in this area dictates how long your legs and your torso are perceived to be. A higher rise makes your legs look longer, while a low rise elongates your upper body. As we’ll discuss later, this will factor in what sort of pants rise you choose.

Ethan Wong wearing high-rise trousers

A mid-rise trouser rise at left–not too high, not too low. Photo by @sebastianmcfox

Pants Rise and Fashion

As mentioned in our introduction, pants rise is heavily impacted by fashion. High-rise also referred to as “long-rise” or “high-waisted,” pants have had a bad reputation for several decades because they are associated with either out-of-touch granddads or young nerds with their pants hiked up to their chests.

Steve Urkel in high-rise pants

Steve Urkel’s high-rise pants defined his nerdiness – if he’d just worn a jacket, lengthened his hem and worn some real socks, this would have been a totally different look

High-rise trousers are colloquially referred to as “old man pants” and were worn by the likes of Steve Urkel on Family Matters and Martin Short’s character Ed Grimley on Saturday Night Live. Of course, these are either intended for comedic effect or illustrate simply that the majority of people don’t think about how to dress well.

Look at the grey suit - beautiful lapels, high waisted trousers, boutonniere and pocket square plus collar pin - stunning from Night After Night

These high waisted trousers in Night After Night were du rigeur in 1932 – just look at how long they make the star’s legs look!

Some older men may recall that “back in the day,” high-rise trousers were the standard, and this is true. If you look at illustrations in Apparel Arts or vintage advertisements, you’ll see high-rise trousers, also with wider legs, so quite the opposite of the skinny and low fits promoted in today’s fashions.

Viennese Suit Styles

The style of the 1930’s was dominated by high-rise trousers with a longer, wider leg

The changeover to a lower rise is only a recent development. Ironically, along with a move to casualization, lower-rise pants are at the opposite extreme on the continuum, sometimes lying below the hip bones, or in the case of streetwear down toward the buttocks.

As with most things in life, it’s best to avoid the extremes. If you choose a mid-height rise, you can be assured that what you wear from the waist down will have enduring value. However, the middle of the pack can be boring too, so there are other factors to consider.

What Rise Should You Choose?

Navy pants with inward pleats worn with suspenders for a smooth look

Sven Raphael Schneider often opts for higher-rise pants because they drape nicely over fuller thighs

Consider Your Body Type

The first consideration in choosing trouser rise is your body proportions. Because there’s more fabric in the rise of high-waisted pants, they create the impression that your lower body, and especially your legs, are longer. On the other hand, low-rise pants make your upper body appear longer because your pants only start at your hips.

So, if you have a long upper body, high-rise pants will counterbalance that and make you look more proportional. On the other hand, if you are short waisted, a lower rise should be your choice to make your upper body appear longer.  Of course, if you wear a suit jacket or sport coat and keep it buttoned when you walk around, these differences will matter less.

High-Rise Pants Elongate the Legs

Jan (@mrjantleman) of the Armoury Hong Kong showing how high-waisted trousers can elongate your legs and balance your torso and lower body.

Similar to pleats, a high rise can make your more comfortable if you carry weight in your abdomen. Often high-rise pants will also be pleated. As a side benefit, a higher waistline also helps disguise your belly.

If you wear low-rise pants, even some holiday overindulgence at the dinner table will give you an overhang or muffin top above your waistband. This makes the tucked-in bottom of your shirt look sloppy in turn, and if you wear a knitted sweater or vest, this in combination with lower-rise trousers will visually emphasize your gut.

Spezzato Suit Jacket and Matching Vest with Contrasting Yellow Pants and Brown Oxfords

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing bespoke mustard yellow high-rise pants

Higher-rise pants are therefore more flattering under these several conditions. When sizing, be aware that if your waist measurement is a certain size but you have a belly, you may need to have high-rise pants let out at the waist because it sits up where your stomach is and not at your hips.

Ethan Newton with Higher-Rise Pants

Ethan Newton of Brycelands in Beijing demonstrating how high-rise trousers can be flattering to different body types; note the pleats as well

The shape of your body also tends to change with your number of years, and pants rise is also a part of dressing appropriately to your age. While younger men have a wider range of possibilities when considering rise, an older man wearing low-rise pants risks looking like he is trying to recapture his lost youth. However, for younger men too, low rise will maintain a perception of youthfulness, but a strong motive for wearing tailoring and classic menswear is to avoid dressing like a boy.

An off-white suit

Low rise pants are a distinctly youthful look

Usually, this means not wearing flip-flops, a t-shirt and a backward baseball cap as your day-to-day outfit, but to be perfectly frank, a moderately high waist gives you a more mature appearance than pants that hang off your hips.

Check How the Pants Fit

Your decision then goes to which is more comfortable for you. When you try on a pair of pants, if the waistband is level and you feel like the crotch is bunching up or confining you, you may need a higher rise. On the other hand, if it looks like there’s excess fabric in the rise and the material is hanging down, you need a lower rise. On the internet, you can find some old tailor’s formulas for calculating the optimal rise for you based on taking your usual pants waist size, dividing by 52 and then multiplying by 18. So, if you have a 34 waist, you would calculate 34/52 x 18, giving you a rise of 11.8.” This seems about right, but try the formula for yourself.

 

Clark Gable wearing high-rise trousers

Clark Gable wearing high-rise trousers

Consider the Aesthetics of Your Look

Other aesthetic considerations come into play when choosing rise height. Note as well that high rise trousers usually will help keep your shirt tucked in as a whole simply because the shirt has a long way to rise out above the waistband. With lower-rise pants, simply moving around, bending and getting up will force you to re-tuck your shirt throughout the day.

Keep in mind that because your waistband is higher your tie will either have to be quite short to keep it just touching your waistband. Though the image of Oliver Hardy has some comic intent, such short ties were more common with the high-rise trousers of the time. Otherwise, you’d need to tuck your tie into your waistband or wear it sprezzatura style with the blades hanging below the waistband. The trick to pulling this off is to make it obvious that it is intentional.

If you like looking fashionable and contemporary, a low rise–in a slim fit, along with a fitted suit jacket or blazer–will be your choice. However, if you prefer a traditional, even vintage, look, opt for a higher rise. That’s the way men during the Golden Age of menswear wore them, and they knew what they were doing in creating a clean, uninterrupted transition from the jacket to the pants.

Sam Smith and unknown - velvet green dinner jackets are nice but sockless tassel loafers are not for black tie events

Green velvet dinner jackets are elegant, but only when paired with pants high enough not to show the shirt under the buttoning point

There should never be a small triangle of shirt showing below the buttoning point of your jacket when you have it closed as this disrupts the flow of your look. If your trouser rise is too low, that bit of shirt will certainly be visible where the quarters (front skirt) of your jacket begin to separate. You can disguise this gap with your tie, which is a little better though technically still incorrect form, but the best solution is a higher waistline; some mid-rise pants will be high enough.

Fabio Attanasio Lower Rise Pants

With lower rise pants, your shirt will be visible below the buttoning point. Photo of Fabio Attanasio via The Bespoke Dudes.

Gents from the first half of the 20th century also knew high-waisted pants look best if you are wearing a suit jacket, blazer or sport coat, especially closed. If you open your jacket, high-waisted pants risk making your chest look concave or sunken and also shortens your torso. Even the Swedish sartorial icon Andreas Weinås looks better with his jacket closed when wearing high-rise trousers.

Closed and Open Jackets with High-Rise Trousers

A closed jacket tends to look better (more proportional) with the jacket closed

Where to Buy Mid- and High-Rise Trousers

So, ultimately, in most cases, it’s better to go with a mid- to high rise. That’s why many gents who try a higher rise say they’ll never go back to something lower. We certainly would welcome a return of popularity for the more traditional high rise on dress pants!

High Rise Pants are Rarely Available Off the Rack

In fact, it’s virtually impossible. The trend for lower rise pants, despite the fact that they are flattering for so few, means you’re less likely to find high-rise pants because they won’t appeal to a broad clientele. One possibility is to try small menswear boutiques and haberdashers. Berg & Berg, for example, only sell higher rise trousers, but the selection is fairly small.

Mid-Rise Pants, However, Are Much Easier to Find (Just Avoid Fast Fashion)

On the other hand, it’s much easier to find mid-rise pants from brands that lean classic, such as Ralph Lauren. They list the height of the rise in the “details” section of their product listings. Many of their OTR models are mid-rise, even though they aren’t advertised as such. In general, pleated pants require a higher rise to drape properly, so that feature is an indication the rise might be higher than average.

Avoid fast fashion brands entirely; they are simply too trend focused to offer mid- or high-rise pants.

Order High Rise Pants Bespoke or MTR

Button closures on a pair of pants

Multiple button closures on a pair of custom Luxire trousers

A better option, though often more expensive, is to go bespoke or made to measure. Luxire is a name that often comes up when discussing custom trousers. They’ll copy a pair of pants with a rise height you like in any fabric they stock, and they have a lot. The quality is not the highest, but the fits are good.

Buy Pants Large and Tailor Them to Fit

Ethan Wong of Street x Sprezza presents interesting advice for how to get around this shortcoming. He recommends buying pants 1-2 sizes larger than you normally wear and getting the legs tapered and the waist taken in. Bigger sizes will have longer rises by default, and you can will have a larger selection to choose from if you think outside the box this way.

Ethan Wong wearing high-rise trousers

Ethan Wong wearing high-rise trousers

Conclusion

Although many men don’t think much about the rise when buying a pair of pants, those who are true sartorialists understand that it has a tremendous impact on how the trousers fit, how they look and how they feel. Though the current trend is toward lower rises, a medium to high rise usually has more benefits in terms of appearance and comfort. The choice ultimately depends on your body shape and personal taste. So, what sort of rise do you prefer?


Gentleman’s Gazette

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