The hautest moments from Milan Fashion Week

Ciao Milano! From heartthrob crooners to slur-hurling streetwear, here are the standout moments from fashion week. Top-Flight wingding The Emporio Armani show was a nonstop flight of fancy. Held at a hangar inside Milan’s Linate airport, the 2,300 “passengers” were even required to go through passport check and security. With more than 150 looks modeled…
Fashion News, Photos, and Video | New York Post

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ICYMI: Lou Phelps & Kaytranada, Prince, Ryan Hemsworth & More Drop New Music

It’s been a busy week of music, with a ton of artists releasing bodies of work. To make sure our readers are all up to speed, HYPEBEAST offers ICYMI, a list of significant new projects, songs and videos that have been recently released but you may have missed. This week’s selections include projects from Lou Phelps & KAYTRANADA, Prince, Ryan Hemsworth, and Moneybagg Yo.

Lou Phelps & KAYTRANADA – 002 / LOVE ME [Last Gang]

Montreal rapper Lou Phelps drops his debut full-length project 002 / LOVE ME. The 10-track LP was executive-produced by his older brother Kaytranada, with appearances from BADBADNOTGOOD, Karriem Riggins, and more. 002 / LOVE ME is led by the previously released singles “Come Inside” featuring Jazz Cartier, “Miss Phatty,” and “Squeeze” with JAHKOY. Stream 002 / LOVE ME below.

Ryan Hemsworth – Elsewhere [Secret Songs / Last Gang]

Ryan Hemsworth releases Elsewhere, his first full-length since 2014’s Alone for the First Time. The 12-track LP features contributions from Joji, Ambre Perkins, Daniela Andrade, NewAgeMuzik, among others.

Prince – Piano & A Microphone: 1983 [NPG / WBR]

Prince‘s estate shares Piano & A Microphone: 1983, the first posthumous collection of previously unreleased music from the late artist. The project was recorded during a rehearsal at Prince’s home studio in Chanhassen, Minnesota. The album includes a cover of Joni Mitchell’s “A Case of You,” as well as different versions of “Purple Rain,” “17 Days,” and more. Piano & A Microphone: 1983 also features “Mary Don’t You Weep,” which was included in Spike Lee’s new film BlackKklansman.

Moneybagg Yo feat. Future – “OKAY”

Moneybagg Yo recurits Future for his brand new single “Okay.” The cut is off of Moneybagg’s forthcoming debut LP Reset, which drops on Nov. 2nd. “Okay” is a thunderous new club single that finds the two southern juggernauts flexing their power. Moneybagg Yo has been on fire this year.

Yaeji Remixes Charli XCX’s “Focus”

Yaeji delievers an electro-pop remix to Charli XCX’s 2018 single “Focus.” With new synths and kick drums, Yaeji puts an excellent spin on the single and breathes it new life. Listen to it below.

Mac DeMarcoOld Dog Demos [Kobalt]

In April, Mac DeMarco released a collection of demos from his most recent album, 2017’s This Old Dog, as a limited edition vinyl to celelbrate Record Store Day. Most recently, the demo collection were made available on streaming platforms. The project includes early sketches of “Baby You’re Out” and “One Another” plus a selection of instrumentals from the orginal album.

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Power Hair Still Rules on Wall Street

Sunset Boulevard/Corbis via Getty

“If you wanna be taken seriously, you need serious hair.”

So speaketh Tess McGill, the inimitable heroine of Mike NicholsWorking Girl. The character, played by Melanie Griffith, utters this line right before taking a pair of scissors to her long, crimped ringlets. (The line was written by a man, screenwriter Kevin Wade.)

Tess emerges from the scene with a short, sleek, androgynous bob. Along with her plucky willpower (and the help of a man), this power hair propels her from secretarial oblivion to corner office with a window in just under two hours’ runtime.

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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Dolce & Gabbana Dive Deep Into Their Brand DNA for Spring 2019

In recent years, Dolce & Gabbana has really doubled down on its commitment to courting the next generation of shoppers. Not only have a crew of social media-savvy youngsters (perhaps better known as the #DGMillennials) replaced traditional models both on the D&G runways and in their …

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Versace Served up Clashing Prints and Early-Aughts Clubwear for Spring 2019

Without fail, the crowd at Versace’s Friday night show in Milan each season provides one of fashion month’s best people-watching opportunities. Donatella Versace’s fans and top customers from around the world turn up in droves wearing head-to-toe ensembles by the Italian brand, looking — for back …

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How to Cook the Perfect Steak & Make Compound Butter – The Steak Guide, Part III

There’s no denying that great steak is a treat – juicy, tender and rosy meat surrounded by a well-seasoned crust is a simple-yet-impressive main course that’s often on the menu for celebrations and special occasions. Considering the cost of dining out at a steakhouse, learning how to cook the perfect steak at home is a skill that every (meat-eating) man should master.

You’d think that cooking a steak – which aside from choosing the cut is merely a matter of adding seasoning and heat – would be fairly straightforward, but it is a polarizing subject. Like BBQ, there are many schools of thought.  For one thing, the ideal cooking method may differ based upon the cut of the steak in question; for more information on steak cuts, you can jump back to the first part of this guide.

Part I – Best Steak Cuts

Part II – How To Buy Steak

Part III – How To Cook The Perfect Steak

As an example, bone-in steaks like the T-bone and rib steak often achieve their best donenesses on the grill, as the bones in these cuts could interfere with surface contact when being pan-seared. Before we get into specific techniques, however, let’s take a look at a basic overview of the range of donenesses that can be achieved, the different methods and materials available to the home cook, and what tools and are required.

A beautiful bone in ribeye

A beautiful bone-in ribeye.

Choose Your Desired Doneness Before You Begin

The amount of time that your steak cooks is always based on personal preference. Knowing this, there are still some general rules; shorter cook times result in a juicier, more flavorful steak, whereas longer cook times result in a drier, tougher meat (but with less concern for bacteria). While steaks can be cooked to almost any doneness level, there is a standard system of terminology used by most professional chefs, which is as follows:

  • Raw – Completely uncooked; usually bathed in a light dressing or used for dishes such as carpaccio or steak tartare.
  • Blue Rare – Seared very quickly; the outside usually has a nice sear to it, with the inside being cool and bright red, basically raw. In Germany, this is known as English Style, since it’s common for English chefs to place the steak in the oven at a low temperature to warm before cooking.
  • Rare – Cooked to 126°F or 52°C, it has a cooked or seared outside with a bright red center that is slightly warmed.
  • Medium Rare – Cooked to 131°F or 55°C, it features a reddish-pink center. This is the standard degree to which most steaks are cooked by restaurant chefs, unless otherwise specified.
Steak Doneness Chart

Steak Doneness Chart

  • Medium – Cooked to 145°F or 63 °C, the middle of the steak is fully pink and hot, with a grayish-brown crust.
  • Medium Well – Cooked to 154°F or 68°C, with a light-pink center and a browned crust.
  • Well Done – Cooked to 163°F or 73°C; greyish-brown throughout, with the outside slightly charred.
  • Over Done – Cooked as hot as 194°F or 90°C, the meat is blackened and charred throughout, resulting in a tough and dry piece of meat with little to no juice and any fat being rendered down.

As we recommend that your steak-eating experience be one of strong flavor, we would suggest that you try a doneness level anywhere from blue rare to medium rare, depending on how comfortable you are with the bacterial risks of eating raw and under-cooked meat.

Steak Cooking Methods

There are pros and cons to each cooking method for a steak, and many stubborn opinions about which is best. What follows is an objective summary of the pros and cons of each method, so that you can decide for yourself which method you’d like to try first.

  • Grilling Steaks
    • There are two primary types of grill available to the home cook, those being the charcoal grill and the gas grill. Other types, such as the wood-fired grill, are often less predictable in their temperature consistency, and are thus not as well-suited to grilling steaks.
    • Charcoal grill
      • Pros: Smoky flavor; beautiful hashmarks on the surface of the meat
      • Cons: Time-consuming process; practice and familiarity needed to master the equipment; can be somewhat messy
        • Additionally, as the grates of the grill allow any juices to run off from the meat, grilled steaks are harder to baste (which adds other flavors and moisture).
        • Not as much crust created vs. pan searing
        • Easier to burn or infuse burned flavor into the meat
    • Gas grill
      • Pros: clean flavor; easier to manipulate and control heat than a charcoal grill; beautiful hashmarks
      • Cons: lacks the smoky flavor of a charcoal grill; difficult to baste; not as much crust created vs. pan searing
Grilled Steak

Steak on the grill.

  • Pan-seared Steaks
    • Pros: simple process; inexpensive tools; works in nearly every kitchen
      • Can baste to add flavor and moisture
    • Cons: If the pan isn’t suitably hot – that is, hot enough to quickly form a nice crust while leaving the remainder of the meat mostly pink- the meat will cook through more completely while the pan’s temperature rises, resulting in less tenderness. As such, the pan-only method may not be ideal for very thick cuts of meat.
  • Pan & Oven Combinations
    • Pan-to-oven Method: start by pan-searing the steak, then bring to temperature in the oven.
      • Pros: a more even internal temp at the beginning of searing (in this case, cool) results in less overdone meat around the edges.
      • Cons: time-consuming and fiddly
    • Reverse Sear: bake the steak in the oven first, then sear.
      • Pros: a more even internal temp at the beginning of searing (in this case, warm) results in less overdone meat around the edges
      • Cons: time consuming and fiddly; the internal temperature of the steak may drop considerably while being transferred from oven to pan, so a desired doneness may be harder to achieve.
Butter basting adds flavor and nuttyness as well as keeps the steak juicy and tender

Basting a pan-seared steak in a cast-iron skillet.

  • A Tip for Pan Searing
    • Go with a heavy stainless-steel or cast-iron pan, as these materials provide good heat capacity and distribution, especially as compared to aluminum or teflon pans. With that said, cast iron is a bit harder to maintain, especially if you live in a humid climate, and may rust if not seasoned or stored properly. Alternatively, a dutch oven (enameled cast iron) provides the temperature control of regular cast iron with fewer maintenance concerns, and so may be a good choice for you.
  • Sous Vide & Sear
    • This method is very similar to the the reverse sear, but it requires specialized equipment (namely, a sous vide machine).
    • Pros: Awesome if you have the equipment; this cooking method allows you to hold meat at a desired temperature for a relatively long time prior to searing, allowing for complete control over doneness and edge-to-edge color.
    • Cons: Sous vide is expensive and much fussier than other methods; the texture of the finished steak may be more rubbery than with other methods.
Tribest Sousvant Sous Vide Machine

Tribest Sousvant Sous Vide Machine

Based on the best possible result with the fewest variables, our three recommended methods are simple pan-searing, grilling, and the pan-to-oven method. Still, we welcome you to try out each of the methods discussed here, to get a feel for them and to decide which you prefer.

Seasoning Your Steak

If you bought a great steak, you want to taste what you paid for. As such, the flavor of the meat shouldn’t be hidden under copious amounts of bold, multi-flavored seasonings; rather, a small amount of seasoning goes a long way to giving the natural flavors of the meat a subtle and pleasing accent. With that in mind, here are some simple seasonings that we recommend in reasonable amounts:

    • Salt: standard kosher has the simplest flavor, though you can experiment with flavorings; we recommend mesquite smoked salt, for example.
    • Freshly ground black pepper (not pre-ground in a store-bought container!)
    • Steak seasonings; we like a brand local to the Midwest called Penzeys
      • Rub it on with a bit of olive oil 4h before grilling
    • Fresh herbs and garlic (after most of the cooking is done)
      • Choose from thyme, sage, oregano, rosemary, chive, parsley, etc.
      • Dry herbs are not flavorful enough, and frozen ones have too much residual water
    • Other recommended seasonings include garlic and a bit of Hungarian paprika
    • Butter
      • Use a European, high-fat-content butter
      • We’re also big fans of so-called “compound butter;” it requires its own process to make at home, which we’ll outline here.
Fresh parsley, a great choice for seasoning steak.

Fresh parsley, a great choice for seasoning steak.

How To Make Compound Butter For Steaks

Compound butter (literally) rolls your butter and herbs into one pleasing little package, and is therefore a great complement to any steak.

    • As outlined above, we recommend that you use a European-style butter and fresh herbs.
    • Add a pinch of smoked salt, paprika, and a dash of fish sauce for that nice umami flavor.
    • Place all of your ingredients into a bowl, and blend with a spoon until they reach a uniform consistency.
    • Place the mixture (which should still be semisolid) onto parchment paper, and roll into a log.
    • Store the log in the refrigerator, taking it out when the steaks are ready to be served.
    • Cut small discs from the log, placing atop each finished steak. Enjoy!

 

Required Tools for Cooking Steaks

Fortunately, you won’t need many tools to cook a great steak, other than your desired cooking implement (be that stovetop and pan, oven, or grill), a good pair of sturdy tongs, and an instant-read thermometer. Regarding the last of these, it’s important that you find a modern-style thermometer with a digital display; old-school meat thermometers with a dial readout are simply too inaccurate to ensure a proper doneness. One other note: skip the “hand pushing” method of measuring doneness (that is, comparing the firmness of the meat to that of your hand when pushed while holding certain fingers together), as this technique is much too subjective and unreliable.

Thermapen Mk4 Thermometer

An example of a digital-display meat thermometer.

Regarding the setup of your kitchen, make sure that you have proper ventilation, as you may encounter some smoke, particularly when pan-searing. The ideal kitchen should have a strong fan, ensuring controlled air flow. Even if you don’t have a restaurant style setup (with such features as an indoor charcoal grill with adjustable grates), you can still cook a great steak. With this information established, let’s get to cooking!


Cooking Your Steak

  • Allow steaks to come to room temperature; this can depend on the temperature of your refrigerator, but we recommend letting your steaks rest on the kitchen counter for anywhere from 30 minutes to two hours.
  • Pat steaks dry with paper towels, as extra moisture inhibits browning.
  • Trim your steaks as desired; some people prefer to leave on any large caps of fat, while others remove them. While the choice is yours, keep in mind that steaks cooked to any doneness below medium will likely not get hot enough to melt the majority of this fat.
New York Strip aka Kansas City Strip Steak cuts with different degree of marbling - From Right to Left - Akaushi, Prime, Select, Grass Fed

New York Strip aka Kansas City Strip Steak cuts with different degrees of fat marbling – From right to left: Akaushi, Prime, Select, Grass Fed.

  • Season the dry surface with your preferred seasonings.
    • When pan-searing, there are two schools of thought regarding seasoning; some cooks argue that pan-seared steaks should not be seasoned before cooking, as the seasonings (especially the salt) will draw moisture to the surface of the meat, which will inhibit browning.
    • In our own tests for the creation of this guide, we did find the sear to be marginally better on non-pre-seasoned steaks. However, these steaks had fewer complementary flavors, as the seasoning was only added at the end of the cooking process.
    • The decision is yours to make, but if you’d like to taste some seasoning along with the natural flavor of the meat, we do recommend seasoning prior to cooking, up to four hours in advance. Just make sure your pan is quite hot, and you’ll still get a great sear.
    • When grilling a steak, feel free to season beforehand; your grill marks should come out nicely either way, as long as your grates are at the proper temperature.
Butcher Cut Pepper is best for steaks

Cracked black peppercorns.

  • If pan-searing, add oil to the pan; don’t oil the steak directly, because you’ll need more oil than just what the surface of the meat can hold.
    • Be sure to use an oil with a high smoke point; rather than something like olive oil, we suggest grapeseed or peanut oil.
  • Bring your cooking surface (pan or grill grates) up to temperature.
    • Restaurants can cook with temperatures up to 1000 degrees Fahrenheit, though this is hard to replicate in the home. Simply get your surface as hot as you can to ensure the best crust formation.
  • Using your tongs, place your steak on the cooking surface, laying it away from you to avoid any splattering of fat or oil. The heat of the surface will drive the juices to the center of the steak.
cast iron skillet steak

Seasoned steak cooking in a cast-iron skillet.

  • Cook to the proper doneness.
    • Check your cooking time based on the size and thickness of your meat.
    • Turn your steak during cooking; some chefs recommend only one turn, but you can turn more often, so long as you keep a close eye on temperature.
    • When pan-searing, some cooks add butter, herbs, garlic, or other seasonings to the pan at this stage. We found, however, that this won’t add a lot of flavor to the finished steak, and instead recommend pre-seasoning and/or finishing with compound butter (see above).
    • When grilling, start with all burners on high heat (preheating for 15-20 minutes), grilling each side twice, forming a diamond pattern with your grill-marks. Following this, turn off the center burner (placing the steak there), and reduce the others to low, aiming for an internal temperature of 250 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. When grilling a bone-in steak, stand it up on the bone. Remove the steak when it’s 5-10 degrees cooler than your desired temperature.
Sous Vide Cook with Cast Iron Finish

Sous-vide-cooked steak, with a cast-iron finish.

  • Rest the steaks for 5-10 minutes (wrapped in aluminum foil) after cooking.
    • During cooking, the meat contracts and the juices move toward the center of the steak. Therefore, if you don’t let your steaks rest, the juices will pour out, resulting in dry meat. Resting allows or the the juices to evenly redistribute and be retained after slicing, for optimal juiciness.
  • Serve your steaks on heated plates.
    • Heated plates ensure that your steaks will be kept warm throughout the meal. Most plates can be preheated in the oven; using oven mitts when inserting and removing them, keep them in for just a few minutes, so that they’re warm without being dangerously hot to the touch.
  • Enjoy!
Pan seared Top Sirloin Steak topped with compound herb butter - stay tuned for our how to cook a steak and make compound butter video

Pan-seared top sirloin steak topped with compound herb butter.

Preferred Methods for Different Cuts

As we outlined above, we find that bone-in steaks achieve best results when grilled. For other cuts, such as the sirloin, strip, tenderloin, and ribeye, we recommend the pan-to-oven method, as pan-searing provides even browning, and the temperature of an oven is somewhat easier to control than that of a grill. Furthermore, grilling is less than ideal in cold winter climates, so perfecting your pan-searing technique is a worthwhile investment of time.

Conclusion

Using the techniques outlined here, you should be able to cook a great steak using a variety of methods. Remember that practice makes perfect, and that you should experiment with different techniques to see which ones you most prefer. As a reminder, you can refer back to the other two parts of this Steak Guide, which cover cuts (in Part I) and considerations for buying (in Part II). Bon appétit!

How to cook the perfect steak

This steak guide was written by Preston Schlueter, incorporating previous writings by Sven Raphael Schneider.


Gentleman’s Gazette

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Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!

From run-ins with famous friends to getting pulled over by the…

From run-ins with famous friends to getting pulled over by the cops, this is Riverdale actress Cami Mendes’ New York Fashion Week video diary. 

 A Monday off from work isn’t typical for actress Camila Mendes—at least not in September. “We shoot #Riverdale nine months out of the year,” she tells ELLE.com. But when the actress who plays Manhattan fashionista Veronica Lodge was presented with the opportunity to attend her first ever New York Fashion Week, Mendes made it work. If only for two days, she was heading to NYC to take in the shows.

First up? Prabal Gurung. Excited for her “Kendall Jenner moment,” the actress went with a red turtleneck and pink trousers, making the most of her debut. 

On day two, she managed to squeeze in an appearance at a 12:00 p.m. Zimmermann show, before jetting off to the airport to make her 4 p.m. flight back to Vancouver—and back to the “no red lipstick rule” her character Veronica Lodge abides by.

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A lesson from Florence, A seasonal sipper, and stylized vengeance.

It’s Friday. Looking for something to switch up your weekend, or to give you an excuse to relax a little? That’s what the Weekend Reset is for. Each week contributor Tim Johnstone pulls together five things to get your weekend started. Could be something to read or watch, something to eat or listen to, or even something to do. Enjoy the weekend fellas.

 

READ: It would seem this is no longer fiction. Mostly.

1984

Perhaps you haven’t read this book since high school. Maybe you simply haven’t read it. No matter. Reading it in the context of what is happening in our society today is, not to be an alarmist, alarming. This is not hyperbole. This is where we are at.

 

WATCH: Bad-ass vengeance in a super fun action flick.

Yes, it is preposterous in places. And that’s just fine. Because UPGRADE is a suspend-your-tendency-to-find-fault-with the details kind of movie. The action is well executed. The movie looks grimy and pristine at the same time. Did I mention vengeance? Because, yeah. And then some.

 

SIP: Go with the Fox and skip the Frog.*

Trader Joe's Harvest Blend Tea

Do you ever get excited about tea? I know. I KNOW. It’s the best, right? Alright. I’m overreacting, I get it. But I love this tea. And depending on where you are, the season to enjoy it has arrived. It isn’t overwhelming. It features all the flavors of fall (and then some). It won’t keep you up all night. And it is great hot or iced. I’m not going to say that I’m drinking it now but I totally am.

 

PREPARE: Hurricane Florence has a lessen for us all.

As you may have noticed, I am a Johnstone. Clan Johnstone, officially. And our motto? Nunquam Non Paratus. Never Unprepared. Today I admit that I am a terrible Johnstone. Watching the heartbreaking footage of the aftermath of Hurricane Florence has reminded me that I am, in fact, currently unprepared. Don’t be like me. This site will give you clear instructions for what to include. You can also find them pre-assembled on line and in brick and mortar retailers. As for me, I’m going to use this bag for my go bag. Preparation has to start somewhere, right?

 

LISTEN: Haters gonna hate but LDR just dropped a great new song.

For those of you who prefer to rock, Joe and I have lined up some playlist-worthy new music for you coming next week. In the meantime, Lana Del Rey is sharing songs from her upcoming album Norman Fucking Rockwell and I am reminded about all the things I’ve appreciated about her since her first single. Jack Antonoff (fun./Bleachers) has produced the new project and that combination has yielded at least one great song. “Mariners Apartment Complex” is terrific. It brings all the feels; it is atmospheric and psychedelic, draped in strings and tweaked guitars with hippy-angel layered backing vocals and lyrics that connect. I’m digging everything about this.

*with all due apologies to my favorite frog ever, but yeah, this stuff’s better.

Tim Johnstone is Dappered’s music correspondent as well as our resident gatherer of all things interwebs related. He’s currently undergoing a Tim Improvement Project™ (Version 4.0) and he understands that peanut butter protein granola by the handful is not going to do him any favors.


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Peach Setting Powders That Will Give You a Natural-Looking Glow

Nothing is more frustrating than spending your precious time sculpting your face to perfection with contour, blending out your foundation seamlessly and nailing a sharp cat eye only for it to melt off your face within an hour or two. And what an annoying experience that is. Thankfully, there are ways to avoid this makeup nightmare. Case in point: setting powders.

As the name suggests, they lock in base products, effectively extending the wear time of your makeup. Some can even minimize pores or blur fine lines as if you’ve applied a photo filter in real life. That said, not all of them work the same or equally as well on all complexions. Oftentimes, translucent powders can make those with deeper skin tones look washed out or gray. One setting powder, however, that applies beautifully across the spectrum of skin tones is peach powder. It not only brightens your overall face but is known to give skin a warm, subtle glow when applied while minimizing the chances of your makeup creasing or sliding off too soon.

No matter your skin color, if you want long-lasting makeup that stays intact from morning to night, looks radiant throughout the day and won’t give you any flashback in photos, using peach setting powders to finish your look is your best bet. Ahead, we’ve compiled our favorite ones worth spending your hard-earned money on.

[ Next: How to Make Your Party Makeup Last All Night Long ]

The post Peach Setting Powders That Will Give You a Natural-Looking Glow appeared first on theFashionSpot.

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How One of Hitler’s Favorite Works of Art Got Stolen—Twice

Photo Illustration by Lyne Lucien/The Daily Beast

The black-and-white video captured the getaway in perfect frame, having been arranged by the “thief” himself.

On December 12, 1976, the performance artist Ulay walked into the Alte Nationalgalerie in Berlin, snatched Carl Spitzweg’s “The Poor Poet” off the wall, and ran out the emergency exist with the framed painting slung under his right arm, alarms blaring behind him.

As he fled down the block amid the falling snow, the video showed two dark-suited security guards sprinting behind him, trying desperately to catch up.

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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The coolest shoes and bags to buy this fall

From luxe leather duos to sporty sets, these bag and shoe combos epitomize cool-weather style Brown is the new black New Yorkers might love head-to-toe black, but try making brown your new neutral — and wear it with all this season’s staples, from denim-on-denim to prairie-style dresses. Wildest dreams With this season’s fierce animal prints,…
Fashion News, Photos, and Video | New York Post

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Frank Ocean’s ‘Blonde’ Has Now Spent 100 Weeks on the Billboard 200 Chart

After recently receiving a platinum certification, Frank Ocean‘s Blonde has now recorded its 100th week on the Billboard 200 chart.

According to records, the 17-track project that released with Endless has impressively been on the album chart for nearly two years despite the constant influx of big albums that have dropped. Released in 2016, Ocean’s third studio album features tracks like “Nikes,” “Ivy” and “Solo,” which still stand as must-have songs in many people’s playlists.

In case you missed, Heaven’s Gate cult is now taking legal action over Lil Uzi Vert’s “New Patek” cover art.

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Prada Put a Techno Twist on Ladylike Classics for Spring 2019

Acid, slime green walls. Inflatable clear plastic chairs. Techno music blaring at an impressively high decibel level and an even higher BPM. No, I’m not talking about Milan’s Hottest Night Club: This was the scene at the Prada show on Thursday evening, where designer Miuccia Prada presented a …

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How to Get Ready for Fall: Wardrobe Maintenance & Best Buys

As this article is first being published, we’re just a few short days away from the official arrival of fall here in the northern hemisphere. Thus, we’ve put together a guide on how best to get your wardrobe ready for the change in seasons, as well as a list of more great buys for fall (and winter).

Before we delve into some more specific recommendations of what to add to your style arsenal, let’s first go over some tips for how to whip your closet into shape.

How to Get Your Wardrobe Ready for Fall

As a general rule, most men will likely have to spend less time “rotating their wardrobes” as the women in their lives (though exceptions on both sides do exist, of course). Especially for the man who has developed a well-functioning capsule wardrobe, many of the same pieces can be worn across multiple seasons. With that said, even the most versatility-conscious among us will probably have accrued a few questionable items over the past six months to a year; as such, while you might not be bringing bins of garments in and out of storage, this transitional period from warmer to colder weather is an opportune time to give your closet a bit of a tune-up.

My Ikea Pax Wardrobes

Two of Sven Raphael Schneider’s Ikea Pax wardrobes (suitably well-sorted!)

This wardrobe readjustment shouldn’t take you more than a few hours, if your items are already decently well-organized–if not, of course, this will also be a good time for you to get any large-scale messes back in order; for more help with this, consult our guide to Wardrobe Maintenance Essentials, or have a look at some helpful Tech Tools. Assuming things are under control however, the goal here should simply be to make an honest assessment of what it is that you regularly wear, what’s worn less commonly that still has a well-defined purpose or function (for example, a black-tie outfit), and what items fit neither of these categories. In this latter case, you can separate garments into the further categories of things unworn because they’re in need of repair (or are irreparable), and things that no longer harmonize with your personal style. Remember to be open to discarding things–don’t just hold onto items if all they’re doing is taking up space–and you’ll find that sorting into categories will make this process go by smoothly and efficiently.

Large Closet with carpet and special hangers that allow even shorter people to hang their clothes on the top rack

A large walk-in closet–fairly well-organized, but it could be using its space even more efficiently!

Here are a few simple steps that should help you to review and edit your existing wardrobe. At the end of said steps, you’ll be better acquainted with what in your closet is ready for fall, and what you could stand to remove.

A Simple Guide to Wardrobe Maintenance

Place each of the items in your wardrobe into one of five sections: Toss, Clean, Repair/Tailor, Consign/Donate, and Ready to Wear.

  • Toss: Simply put, anything with holes or permanent stains has outlived its usefulness. Nothing neutralizes the effect of an otherwise sharp outfit like the sight of a worn-out garment like a shirt with yellow underarms, a tie with a prominent grease stain, or a sock full of holes. If it can’t be cleaned or repaired (see below), it’s time to toss.
Use Baby Powder to Remove Oil Stains

An oil stain of this nature might be able to be removed at home. If not, dry cleaning should take care of it.

  • Clean: If a garment has more manageable stains or blemishes, it may be able to be brought back to life by a reputable dry cleaner. Try to remember the age of the stain, as well as the materials involved; the more information that you can give to the cleaner, the better. Remember that clothes should be dry cleaned only when absolutely necessary, so if the garment in question just needed a regular at-home laundering, take care of that, as well. Be sure to read your tags!
  • Repair/Tailor: If you’ve been refraining from wearing an item because of a missing button, a frayed cuff, or an open seam, take the initiative to get the item properly repaired. This can be done at home, of course, if you’re confident enough in your own sewing abilities, but if the nature of the repair is more advanced, a professional might be better suited for the job. Similarly, if you’ve got a garment that’s only slightly too big or too small on you (generally, within one size in either direction), a quality tailor should be able to alter the piece to fit you properly. Fit is the most important aspect of any wardrobe, after all, so do what you can to get all of your clothes looking neat and trim.
A typical all-in-one dry cleaning machine

A typical all-in-one dry cleaning machine.

  • Consign/Donate: There are a few key reasons to donate some of your garments, assuming they’re still in good enough condition not to end up in the “toss” pile. Firstly, if the garment in question no longer harmonizes with the sort of wardrobe you’ve developed for yourself (let’s say, for example, a durable pair of baggy cargo shorts?), it’s a good candidate for donation. Also, if you’ve got clothing that no longer fits you by a factor of multiple sizes–either too small or too big–or if it’s so obviously dated to a particular era that it couldn’t be worn outside of a Halloween costume, it may be time to donate these items, as well. Feel free to keep one powder-blue leisure suit on hand if you’ve got a 1970s-themed party planned, but otherwise, say goodbye to examples of extreme trends. As a bonus, the money you could earn from consigned clothes and the tax deduction for your donations can be put towards buying pieces that will better complement and your existing wardrobe!
  • Ready to Wear: After you’ve put everything else into one of the other four categories, what you should have remaining are the items that you already wear frequently and that you know make you look great. Just to be sure that these items are in fact being worn as much as you think, try one of our favorite style hacks, and use the directional alignment of your clothes hangers to act as a visual shorthand for what’s being worn most. If you get through the season without wearing some items, they might be able to be gotten rid of the next time you streamline your wardrobe.
hangers facing in one direction and put them in the other way when garment is worn

To easily keep track of what you wear, start with your hangers facing in one direction, and switch them when a garment is worn.

As simple as that, your current wardrobe has been primed for the oncoming fall season! Here are a few additional notes:

  • Any items that you’ve decided to keep for sentimental reasons should be placed in long-term storage (and stored in a space not used for your clothes).
  • If the above steps are difficult for you to tackle alone, ask a friend or close family member to offer their opinions.

Now that you’ve gone through your wardrobe and eliminated what you won’t be wearing, however, you’d be even better suited for the new season by acquiring a few new garments. We’ve provided a list of 11 Must-Haves for Fall in the past, but here are some additional recommendations for autumnal attire.

10 Great Buys for Fall (& Winter!)

What follows is a list of 10 items (or in some cases, categories of items) that we believe will bring your fall wardrobe to the next level–and will keep you looking stylish through the winter.

1. Quality Outerwear (Trench Coats, Peacoats, Waxed-Cotton Jackets, & Leather Jackets)

As fall brings a chill in the air, you’re going to want to have a few options to layer on top of your outfits for added warmth. Additionally, there is always a chance that Mother Nature might throw in other elements, like rain or early snow. Whatever the case may be, a variety of choices in outerwear will be your best bet; as such, we recommend a few different styles, including the trench coat, peacoat, waxed cotton jacket, and leather jacket.

Sven Raphael Schneider in a trench coat

Sven Raphael Schneider, well-dressed for fall in a trench coat.

2. More Leather Goods (Dress Boots, Bags, Watch Bands, etc.)

Fall is perhaps the ideal season for various leather accessories, given that their various shades of tan, brown, and red echo the hues of the foliage. As such, now may be the perfect time to take the plunge on that pair of Chelsea boots you’ve been eyeing for months, step up your business ensembles with a new briefcase, or give your wrist a subtle hint of rich color with a leather watch band. Of course, the leather accessories in the Fort Belvedere shop are worthwhile additions, as well!

Barker Luxembourg Chelsea Boot with Brogueing

Barker Luxembourg Chelsea Boot with Brogueing

3. Cotton Flannel Button-Up Shirts

As with warm leather hues, there’s no better time than fall to break out the tartans, plaids, and other checked patterns, especially when it comes to shirts. Wearing a subtle check with a typical dress shirt is great for the office, but for more casual days at home or out and about, nothing says fall like a soft cotton flannel button-up in a plaid pattern. While a large red-and-black buffalo plaid may make you look like Paul Bunyan or the Brawny Man, there are more subtle ways to wear plaid, as well.

Plaid cotton flannel shirt, flannel chalk stripe suit, knit cardigan and donegal tweed overcoat

A plaid cotton flannel shirt can even be dressed up; here, an attendee of Pitti Uomo wears one with a flannel chalk stripe suit, knit cardigan and donegal tweed overcoat.

4. A Wool Fedora or Trilby

Our previous article on Fall Must-Haves spotlighted flat caps as an ideal piece of headwear for the colder seasons, and this remains true. For a slightly more formal touch, however, go with a hat featuring a full brim all around–namely, a fedora or trilby. Once you find the right type of hat for your face shape, select one in a warm and sturdy wool felt, and you’ll have a topper to last you for many falls and winters to come.

Sven Raphael Schneider in a fedora, vintage brown Caraceni suit, vest, winchester shirt, collar bar and spectators

Sven Raphael Schneider in a fall outfit consisting of fedora, vintage brown Caraceni suit, vest, winchester shirt, collar bar and spectators.

5. Rugby Shirts

Returning to shirts for a moment, another alternative that’s even less formal than the button-up (but still more formal than a simple t-shirt or crew-neck shirt) is the rugby shirt–sort of a long-sleeved sibling to the classic polo. Find one or two of these with a well-built collar and a classic striped design, and you’ll be able to channel your inner preppy this fall.

F.E. Castleberry of Unabashedly Prep wearing a varsity jacket, ocbd, rugby shirt, green chinos, and tassel loafers without socks

F.E. Castleberry of Unabashedly Prep wearing a varsity jacket, ocbd, rugby shirt, green chinos, and tassel loafers without socks

6. Scarves

For the particularly crisp fall days, just a piece of outerwear may not be enough to keep you warm. In such cases, having a quality scarf around your neck (tied as you like it) can be just the thing. Also, even if you don’t feel the need to be fully wrapped up, having a scarf along to provide an accent to your coat works just as handsomely. Available in a wide variety of materials, weaves, and styles, there’s a type of scarf for every man–and we’ve got a great selection available at Fort Belvedere!

Red Burgundy and Blue Scarf Double Sided Wool Silk by Fort Belvedere

Red Burgundy and Blue Scarf Double Sided Wool Silk by Fort Belvedere

7. A Camel-Hair Sports Coat or Overcoat

While perhaps no fabric is better suited for fall than a good wool tweed (preferably in a checked pattern like houndstooth), another option that’s somewhat overlooked is a jacket made from high-quality camel hair. Warm, sturdy, and usually in a tan color that complements fall wardrobes well, camel-hair sports coats are a welcome addition to any fall wardrobe. Consider an overcoat in camel hair, as well!

Camel overcoat with printed silk scarf

Camel overcoat with printed silk scarf

8. Dark Denim Jeans

Though jeans are often too informal for the wardrobe combinations of a gentleman–at least, when their fit is too loose, their color is too light, or their condition is too distressed–a good pair of well-fitted dark denim can act as a staple item for many smart-casual or even business casual outfits. Pair your dark jeans with one of your new rugby shirts and a leather jacket, and you’re equally ready for a walk in the countryside or a Sunday brunch. For an old-fashioned touch, you can pinroll them, too!

Several jeans and jacket combinations worn by Sven Raphael Schneider

Several winning combinations of jeans and a jacket, as worn by Sven Raphael Schneider.

9. Cardigan Sweaters

Our previous post on must-haves extolled the virtues of lightweight knitted sweaters, and we’re following up on that point here, with a specific shout-out to the cardigan style. The cardigan’s buttoned front gives it a slightly different look from pullover styles, and this extra element of vertical detailing makes it look especially smart when worn under a sports coat, or even with a full suit. Zippered sweaters will give you the full Mister-Rogers look (which is perfectly fine, should you want it!), but the cardigan strikes a good balance between sporty and professorial.

Darmody in Suit with Cardigan in Muted Dark Colors

A very fall-appropriate outfit, featuring warm, muted colors and a cardigan layered under a sturdy suit.

10. Odd Trousers (in Different Fabrics & Patterns)

The final item on this list echoes the previous list’s mention of corduroys, in that it can never hurt to have a few other pairs of smart-casual trousers in your wardrobe, to provide some additional variety among the jeans, khakis, and cords. Whether you opt for cotton flannels in a warm fall color (or the classic solid gray), or wool-cashmere blends in a small check, you’ll be glad to have some more options at the ready, to keep your lower half just as well-outfitted as your upper.

Business Casual combination with silk knit tie

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a combination of sports coat (actually a suit jacket) and odd trousers.

Conclusion

In broad strokes, remember that a well-executed fall wardrobe takes advantage of  textures, layers, earth tones, and soft, warm fabrics; for more advice on matching these effectively, consult this guide. Start by cleaning and organizing your closet, then move on to acquiring some of the recommended garments above. Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be ready to attend any fall party, hayride, or bonfire in style!


Gentleman’s Gazette

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The Emmys Red Carpet Had Everything—Except for Marchesa

Theo Wargo/Getty

The fashion choices on the Emmys red carpet were exceptionally fearless this year. Padma Lakshmi re-wore an orange J. Mendel gown to make a statement against wastefulness. Tiffany Haddish wore a rainbow Prabal Gurung wrapped dress that demanded twirling.

Issa Rae opted for a periwinkle Vera Wang jumpsuit embellished with 3,000 crystals (wouldn’t you?).

But there was one place none of them dared to go. Marchesa, a red carpet staple line until October of last year, was nowhere to be found, at least on celebrity attendees.

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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7 Breakout Trends From London Fashion Week Spring 2019

Designers at London Fashion Week flooded the British capital with fearless fashion for the Spring 2019 season. The four-and-a-half-day-long schedule of shows and presentations wrapped up on Tuesday, and provided enough highlights to keep critics entertained for months to come. Both big-name …

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Designer Alessandro Sartori created a ‘one-and-a-half-breast’ blazer

On a sluggish summer afternoon in Milan, Alessandro Sartori has a lot to do. Between showing off his spring 2019 fashion collection for Ermenegildo Zegna and getting started on next fall’s designs, he’s busy comparing fabric swatches at the textile trade show Milano Unica, while also organizing the logistics of moving into a larger house….
Fashion News, Photos, and Video | New York Post

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Steal Alert: J. Crew Fall Ready Sportcoats & Blazers 25% off

SUITUP = Ludlow Moon Mills Blazer – $ 223.50 ($ 298) | Legacy Blazers – $ 262.50 ($ 350)

It’s billed as a suiting event. But when their suits run $ 650 a pop, 25% off still doesn’t help that much when you compare them to the competition. Yet their stand alone sportcoats are awfully outstanding, and those non-functioning sleeve cuff buttons are hugely helpful when it comes to easy, cheap tailoring.

So suiting? Mneh. But 25% off their legacy blazers AND their just in, Moon Mills English tweed blazers?

That’s worthy of a steal alert.

Perfect for fall and winter, yet not heavy and stiff like many other tweed sportcoats.

These aren’t the super heavy and stiff tweed blazers you’re probably thinking about. Thanks to being only half lined and lightly constructed (more like a washed chino blazer… less like a rigid yacht club number), they actually breathe and move quite nicely. The fabric is a wool cotton blend from Moon Mills in the UK and has a slight herringbone pattern to it. Again, they’re just half lined, and the sleeve buttons are easy to tailor thanks to being non-functioning. Frustratingly, the discount doesn’t appear to count towards their new classic fit versions, with their wider 3.5″ lapels. That stinks if you’re a broader fella.

Also getting the discount is their excellent Legacy blazers. And broader guys rejoice, the Crosby Fit is getting the 25% off here too. Want something a little less formal? Their new-ish unconstructed wool/cotton blazers are up for this SUITUP code as well. Three colors available there, and you can find a full review of those things over this way.

Left: The Unconstructed Wool/Cotton Ludlow | Right: The All Wool Legacy in Ludlow or Crosby

For those who spend most of their time really dressed down, yet still like the look of classic workwear, the Wallace & Barnes Chore Blazer is also up for the 25% off.

UPDATE: Nevermind. The W&B Chore blazers were getting that cut earlier and now they’re not. Thanks to Jeff for the heads up about how the Wallace and Barnes chore blazers have become excluded. Sorry about that. 

Code SUITUP runs clear though Friday, 9/21. Fingers crossed they remove the exclusion from those Classic Fit Moon Mills sportcoats at some point between now and then.

That’s all. Carry on.


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See the Best Beauty Looks From the 2018 Emmy Awards

It’s not the Emmy Awards’ fault, necessarily, but the fact that they fell on a Monday evening during Fashion Month meant they really had to bring it. And as far as the red carpet was concerned, “it” was, indeed, brought. We were pleasantly surprised to see a fair amount of creativity, whimsy and …

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Kanye West to Perform on 44th Season Premiere of ‘Saturday Night Live’

Kanye West is returning to the Saturday Night Live stage. Today, the NBC late night show confirmed via Twitter that Mr. West will be making his sixth appearance on SNL. Last time we saw Yeezy on Saturday Night Live was back in 2013 when he performed “New Slaves” and “Black Skinhead” off the Yeezus album. Coming off of the record-breaking video for “I Love It,” alongside Lil Pump, West will be joined by Star Wars: The Last Jedi actor Adam Driver who will host the September 29 episode.

Take a glance at the official announcement below and let us know what tracks you hope to see Kanye perform. Yeezy fans can also take a peek at the upcoming “I Love It” and “Free Lil Pump” merch.

Click here to view full gallery at HYPEBEAST




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From Felicity to The Americans: See Keri Russell’s Style Evolution Over the Years

ESC: Keri RussellKeri Russell’s style has only gotten better with time.
After playing the lead in both Felicity and The Americans, the star has spent ample time in front of red carpet cameras. From…

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The Eyeglasses Guide for Men, Part I: History & Style Overview

After the horror of the eyewear in the 80’s and 90’s, eyeglasses have turned a sartorial corner. They are no longer dreaded but necessary accessories, because classic styles are making a comeback. Now glasses are affordable, optional accessories that you can use not only to correct your vision but to boost your style as well.

Like sunglasses, glasses can have a powerful affect on your style statement. In this guide, we will discuss why you should wear glasses, history, classic style options, and where to find the most interesting pairs.

Michael Caine wearing statement rectangular glasses in the 60s

Michael Caine wearing statement rectangular glasses in the 60s

What’s to Love About Glasses?

For many of us, getting rid of our glasses (after surgery or contact lenses) was a long-awaited triumph. That begs the question, what’s to love about glasses? Plenty, actually.

  • They’re optional these days! Since they are no longer the only way to correct your vision, you can choose to wear them as little or as often as you like.
  • Eyeglasses are finally more affordable. With low-cost online eyeglass retailers lining up to take your business where there were once only high-cost, cumbersome optical stores, you can now easily find and afford more than one pair, if you want.
  • Quality materials are making a comeback. Since glasses are now more about fashion than function, more retailers are offering materials other than basic plastic and metal.
  • You don’t need a prescription to wear them. Like to look of glasses but don’t need them or hate to wear anything but contacts? No problem. Many brands now offer the option of ordering frames with non-corrective polycarbonate lenses. Only you will know.
  • Glasses make you look smart. It’s not just a stereotype, it’s actually been scientifically proven. According to Psychology Today, glasses make the wearer appear more intelligent, honest and trustworthy, in addition to reducing your threat level and associating you with a higher social class. If you’re looking to get ahead at the office, getting glasses may just help.
  • They add maturity to young faces and youth to mature faces. By pairing mature frames with youthful faces and vice versa, you can change the impression of your age.
Vintage Glasses by Blickzurück - Anett Spinola

Vintage Glasses

History of Men’s Glasses

Glasses have come a long way in the last 700 years. The first mention of eyeglasses in roughly the format we know them today, two-lens corrective frames, in historical texts was in the late 13th century in Italy. Cultures around the world had been experimenting with optics for centuries prior, and the 11th-century Arabic text of the Book of Optics laid the foundation for the creation of modern eyeglasses. By the turn of the 14th century, Venice had established a guild to regulate eyeglasses. This early eyewear employed convex lenses to magnify a subject. The earliest known pair of dual-lens glasses ever discovered was dated to 1400 in Germany.

Scissors Glasses French Empire 1805

Scissors Glasses French Empire 1805

A few hundred years later, Benjamin Franklin invented bifocals and astronomer George Airy created lenses that could correct astigmatism. Glasses with temples that extended over the ears had been around for years, but glasses that were hand-held (lorgnette) or worn over the nose (pince-nez) dominated the market. Well into the 20th century, glasses were considered a “medical appliance” that was something to be embarrassed about, and they were intentionally designed to be as invisible as possible. It wasn’t until the 1970s that retailers caught on to the consumer demand for stylish eyewear, and the market has exploded since then. Eyeglasses are no longer an accessory to hide but much rather they are a stylish accent that can be used to enhance your outfit or burnish your personal image.

Eyeglasses Construction

Eyeglasses are constructed of several parts. Depending on the frame style, eyeglasses are typically constructed of a pair of rims that secure the lenses, a bridge which connects the two lenses, nose pads, and the temples, which extend over the ears.

Classic rounded plastic Eyeglass Frame

Classic rounded plastic Eyeglass Frame

Modern day glasses are constructed from many materials, including:

Plastic

Cellulose acetate is a plastic polymer that is made from wood pulp. Unlike other plastics (such as TR-90) which can be made from chemicals and petroleum, cellulose acetate is a plant-based plastic that is molded into sheets. Individual frames are then cut from the sheet and hand polished, which is more resource intensive than extruding plastic and therefore more expensive. Acetate is stiffer, heavier and more durable than standard plastic. Multi-colored patterns such as tortoiseshell are far more beautiful in acetate since the patterns were created over an entire sheet; standard plastic must be molded or worse, painted, to achieve the same affect.

In general, plastics like acetate and TR-90 are hypoallergenic. The main disadvantages are that they are more difficult to adjust, they are heavier than metal, and under stress, they can break or snap. Given the choice, we would highly recommend seeking out acetate for its beauty and durability.

Natural Materials

Though much harder to find and very expensive, it is possible to find frames that are made from bone, horn, shell, or wood. Wood frames are a recent trend,  and they are typically constructed similarly to a plastic frame. All wood frames are often made from a hardwood that is then veneered with a more precious wood. Buffalo and deer horn is often hand carved to shape, and beautiful natural striations and a matte finishing make for a distinctive choice. Real tortoise shell is largely outlawed, but a determined person could find vintage frames at specialty retailers.

Natural materials can be a distinctive style choice, but they offer only limited styles and require extra work on the wearer’s part to seek them out.

Original Tortoiseshell glasses are very difficult to find these days as mostly only old stock materials can be made into eyewear these days. As such, they often fetch prices north of $ 10,000.

Metal

Metal is a lightweight, easily adjustable choice for eyewear. They are ubiquitous in titanium, aluminum and various alloys such as Monel, which is corrosion resistant. Metal is particularly good for thin frames, such as round or rectangular shapes.

There are a handful of disadvantages to metal. They can easily be bent or misshapen, and since metal has a strong “memory” it can be hard, if not impossible, to reform them. People with metal allergies may find they react to metal glasses. Coated metal frames can also lose their finish over time, which will cause metal glasses to age faster than plastic frames.

Pascal Zimmer from Luxembourg with Newsboy Cap, Vintage glasses and shearling collar and lapel

Round metal glasses are staging a comeback

Glasses can be a signature accessory, such as Woody Allen's classic frames

Glasses can be a signature accessory, such as Woody Allen’s classic frames

Recommended Styles

One of the reasons we love glasses at GG is that so many of the classics are back in style. Here is a selection of styles that are classic yet very modern. Note that there are many variations on each style, so if our recommended frame doesn’t suit you, there is probably a retailer out there with an option for you.

Browline frames from Glasses USA

Browline frames

Browline or Clubmaster Glasses

Browline frames are defined by a top-heavy, strong frame along the line of the brow and temples. The lenses are suspended from the top of the frame by thin metal wires, drawing the eye upwards. This style is iconic of the 50s and 60s, when it was worn by famous figures such as Malcolm X and President Lyndon B. Johnson. This style is particularly good at adding maturity to youthful faces, but for more seasoned gentleman it can risk looking dated. This edgier style is great for creative types or those who simply want to blend classic style with a bold statement. Check out these black and gold Copperfield browline frames, $ 89 with lenses or if you want more customization option, Shuron.

Round Metal Glasses

Round metal glasses have long been the choice for counter-culture, resistance and youth-culture movements, and now they are reentering the mainstream. Favored by Steve Jobs, Mahatma Gandhi, John Lennon and even Harry Potter, they are a bold statement by someone who feels they fall just outside of the mainstream. Today, they can be found in true round shapes to softened round shapes that are a little less aggressive. Great for creative, quirky types. Check out this pair of soft round Ray-Ban 6355 frames here, $ 185 with lenses.

Round plastic frames suit many ages and styles

Round plastic frames suit many ages and styles

Round Plastic Frames with a Keyhole Bridge

Unlike round metal frames, round plastic frames with a keyhole bridge are the epitome of classic men’s mainstream eyewear. These frames help add maturity to youthful faces, but unlike browline frames, they also work well for seasoned gentlemen. Overall, this look is ageless, intelligent, and thoughtful. Of course, the material is not the best. So if horn is our of your price range, and you can’t find something in acetate that you like, check out this pair of classic round Theory frames from EyeBuyDirect, $ 70 with lenses.

 

Rectangular Glasses

Rectangular frames can make a variety of statements. Long, thin frames are simple and pedestrian, while thick rectangles in dark shades can make a bold statement for men of all ages. They are just as fresh and attractive now as they were in the 60’s. This style is particularly good for adding youthfulness to mature faces, especially in bold color choices such as clear, blue, or tortoise shell. They give the impression of confidence, competence, and a touch of edginess to an otherwise classic frame.

Big Pattern

Herbert Stricker wearing rectangular frames with a bold dinner jacket

Do you wear eyeglasses? What is your go-to style?


Gentleman’s Gazette

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How Sarah Jessica Parker Made a Lucrative Business Out of Being Carrie Bradshaw

HBO/Getty

In a 2001 episode of Sex and the City, Carrie Bradshaw agrees to appear in a runway show as long as she can keep her fabulous Dolce & Gabbana dress after walking. (Of course, wackiness ensues when plans change just before showtime, and Carrie has to prance onstage in jeweled panties—that’s fashion, baby.)

Now Sarah Jessica Parker’s life is imitating her most famous character’s woes. According to court documents, luxury jewelry designer Kat Florence has accused the actress of not returning $ 150,000 worth of jewels she “borrowed” after a photoshoot.

In a statement provided to The Daily Beast, Parker’s lawyer Ira Schreck called the claims “plain false,” adding that his client “has never and would never hold onto anything belonging to someone else.”

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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Women are wearing absolutely nothing under their jackets

Forgot something? That’s what some bystanders were wondering when they saw fearless fashion vixens at last week’s ready-to-wear shows rocking the latest look: an open jacket worn over bare breasts. That’s right — no top and no bra, just unfettered boobage. “Everybody is pushing the limits nowadays and figuring out a cool, unique way to…
Fashion News, Photos, and Video | New York Post

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Alexa Chung Makes Her Official London Fashion Week Debut for Spring 2019

Ever since her debut on the scene as a model-turned-TV-host-turned-It-Girl, Alexa Chung has built a strong base of fans who take note of her every style move. So it only made good business sense that, following hit collaborations with the likes of Madewell and AG Jeans, Chung would put together a …

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Peter Kavinsky—I mean Noah Centineo— just proved he is the…

Peter Kavinsky—I mean Noah Centineo— just proved he is the PERFECT boyfriend (with the help of Liz Lemon, the Labrador retriever puppy).

My personal favorite line: “we can go to dinner, but we should split the bill 80/20 because of the gender pay gap.” 😍😂😭

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How to Buy the Best Steak for Your Money – The Steak Guide, Part II

In the first part of our Steak Guide, we discussed what a steak is (and isn’t), the related terminology, and what cuts of beef we recommend that you buy. The question remains, then: how should you go about buying your steak? This second part in the series answers that question, letting you know where and how to buy steak in order to get the highest quality product for your money.

Getting Started with Buying Your Steak

The first step to buying a great steak is to look at the components we discussed in Part I of this guide, in order to determine your preferred cut–whether that be a ribeye, a tenderloin, a New York Strip, a sirloin, or a t-bone or porterhouse.

Assortment of Steak Cuts at the butcher

Assortment of Steak Cuts at the butcher

Second, you look at the flavor profile. Is it grass-fed is it grain-fed or maybe grain fed with grass finish? Of course the size and the thickness of the steak are also very important. Most grocery-store steaks are usually cut very thin, while most chefs prefer a 1- to 2-inch thickness. At the end of the day, you should choose something that you’re comfortable cooking, because both can be over- and under-cooked. In our experience, we recommend slightly thicker cut steaks, as they preserve a bit of that nice pink area inside when prepared medium-rare.

Measure the Marbling – The USDA Grading Scale

A huge factor to consider when buying a steak is the amount of marbling, which is basically the amount of intramuscular fat. The marbling of steak can vary considerably depending on the cut you choose as well as the quality level of beef that you get. In the United States, the USDA has a grading system for beef that’s pretty universal; there are three main categories: USDA Select, Choice, and Prime. These three grading categories are simply based on the amount of marbling present in the beef. USDA Select is considered to be the lowest grade of steak you can get, but it’s therefore also the leanest one.

A handy infographic breaking down the USDA grading system.

Approximately 40% of all steaks are categorized as USDA Select. The next class up is USDA Choice, which will already have a higher degree of fine marbling visible; large chunks of fat are undesirable, because they won’t melt when you grill or sear a steak. Choice is the only category that is further sub-categorized into three: these sub-categorizations are small marbling, moderate marbling, and modest marbling. Small marbling represents approximately 37% of all steaks, modest marbling approximately 15%, and moderate marbling approximately 5%. Reigning supreme at the top of the USDA scale is the Prime steak. It’s the most flavorful choice, having the largest amount of marbling. Only about 3% of all steaks are graded as USDA Prime.

New York Strip aka Kansas City Strip Steak cuts with different degree of marbling - From Right to Left - Akaushi, Prime, Select, Grass Fed

New York Strip aka Kansas City Strip Steak cuts with different degree of marbling – From Right to Left – Akaushi, Prime, Select, Grass Fed

What About Grass-fed Beef?

Though it has become a desirable term (and something of a “buzz-word”) among consumers these days, we feel it’s important to note that “grass-fed” is not a protected or regulated term to any degree; thus, it can mean anything from a cow that ate just a tiny bit of grass to one that ate nothing but grass. As such, it really pays to understand where your grass-fed beef is coming from, and what the breeders are actually doing and feeding to their cattle. In general, grass-fed beef is leaner and has less intramuscular fat, simply because grass is not as energy-dense as grain. Also, grazing cows walk more than their grain-fed counterparts.

Grain Fed vs. Grass Fed

Grain Fed vs. Grass Fed

In recent years, grass-fed beef has become increasingly popular, touted by many as the healthy choice in steaks due to its higher amounts of Omega-3 fatty acids. While this claim is true when comparing the amount of Omega-3 in grass-fed steak to conventional grain-fed cuts, the overall amount still pales in comparison to other foods. For example, a 3.5-ounce piece of sirloin steak that is grass-fed has about 80 milligrams of Omega-3; at the same time, a traditional or conventional grain-fed piece of beef of the same size and cut has about half that, at 40 milligrams. Comparing both of these cuts to a 3.5-ounce piece of salmon, we find that the salmon contains 1000 to 2000 milligrams of Omega-3, meaning you’ll get about 12 to 25 times as much in the same portion.

Cattle on a ranch near Elko, Nevada, USA.

Cattle on a ranch near Elko, Nevada, USA.

What does this mean in practice? While it’s true that the consumer will get more Omega-3 fatty acids with grass-fed beef, we suggest that you simply enjoy the occasional piece of salmon every once in a while, and stick with traditional grain-fed beef; thus, you’ll continue to enjoy the more complex flavors of grain-fed beef when indulging in a steak, while still maintaining a diet that is richer in Omega-3 overall. That being said: as we discussed previously, grass-fed cattle are more often raised under more humane conditions; fewer antibiotics are used, and the cattle are allowed to roam and graze rather than being confined to tight-fitting pens, with the added benefit that such conditions lead to less environmental pollution. All this being said, grass-fed steaks do have a distinct flavor that some people enjoy or even prefer. At the end of the day, it’s a personal choice which you must make for yourself, and there’s no right or wrong answer.

What About Angus Steaks?

Certified Angus is a term that you’ll often see in restaurants or grocery stores, but stated simply, it refers to a specific cattle breed, not a quality grading. Angus or Aberdeen Angus is a breed of Scottish cattle that is smaller than the typical American cattle. As it is a breed and not a grading, Angus steaks can be graded under the USDA system discussed above, just as is the case with non-Angus beef. The breed has been around in the US for quite a while; the American Angus Association was founded in Chicago in 1883, though interestingly, it took them until 1978 to come up with the Certified Angus beef standard. The purpose behind this certification was simply to promote the idea of a higher-quality beef. In order to meet the Certified Angus standard, the cow in question must be 51% black in color and exhibit Angus influence, which includes simmental cattle and cross-breeds. Other necessary criteria include higher-than-average marbling, a carcass size of under 1000 pounds, and a certain hump size.

Two cuts of Angus beef (bearing the Certified Angus logo) alongside standard USDA-graded cuts.

With that being said, it’s worth keeping in mind that even McDonald’s serves Certified Angus beef. In our opinion, most people would not be able to discern a tenderloin of Certified Angus beef from a tenderloin that is not Certified Angus in a blind test, whereas a great many people would immediately be able to tell the difference between (for example) a Select-grade tenderloin and a Prime tenderloin. As with the differences between grass-fed and grain-fed beef, the difference in flavor (however marginal it may be) is yours to seek out if you prefer it.

What About Japanese Beef?

Given that these terms have also risen to greater popularity in recent years, let’s aim to answer the question of what characteristics are displayed by Kobe and Wagyu beef, and whether or not these Japanese cuts are worth your money. Stated simply, Kobe is a Japanese black cattle breed; more specifically, one of the Tajima substrain. It is fed on grain fodder, with a feeding period which is considerably longer than in the US (typically 26 to 32 months, as opposed to just 18). Kobe beef also has a much higher degree of intramuscular fat, the melting point of which is also much lower by comparison–meaning that when you eat it, it melts in your mouth like butter.

Steak Marbling Guide

A marbling guide to Japanese steaks.

There are only about 3000 cattle that qualify annually as authentic Kobe beef, and the best of them are never exported from Japan. Kobe grades go from a 1 at the low end to a 5 at the highest end. In the US, there are only a handful of restaurants that even offer a 5 grade Kobe beef. With this degree of exclusivity in mind, know that anything outside of these 3000 annually imported cattle are not the real deal, but rather a crossbreed between the Tajima strain and Angus cattle or other cattle in the US. In other words: whenever you are at the grocery store in the US and you see something advertised as Kobe beef, know that it’s simply not the real thing. If you are at a restaurant which touts that it does happen to serve genuine Kobe beef, it will cost you anywhere from $ 40 to $ 60 per ounce to enjoy such a steak–almost $ 2 per gram. While there are, in fact, some American Kobe beef breeders who have not crossbred their cattle, and they have them DNA tested to have them certified by the American Wagyu Association, we would generally urge you not to overpay for this American-style Kobe beef (especially when in a restaurant), because you can never see the raw product.

Authentic Japanese Kobe beef at the Wynn

Authentic Japanese Kobe beef at the Wynn

In our experience, Kobe beef is so fatty that you really don’t need more than two to three ounces per serving; personally, I once had it when I was in Japan, and it’s an entirely different experience from an American steak. I wouldn’t even call it the same thing–it’s really more like flavorful butter rather than the steak experience that you’re used to. So, should you buy the American Wagyu or Kobe beef that is advertised all over the place? Just keep in mind that it’s a crossbreed, and while it usually results in a higher amount of fat, it’s not regulated, so you really don’t know what you’re getting unless you can trust the source.

Akaushi Beef

Another Japanese beef variety that has become more popular recently in the US is so-called Akaushi beef. It’s actually a form of Japanese brown cattle, as opposed to black. In 1994, a Texas Ranger imported 11 purebred Akaushi cattle to the US, taking care to keep them separate from any American cattle to prevent crossbreeding. Today, that farm has over 5,000 head of Akaushi cattle. Typically, Akaushi steaks have even more marbling than USDA Prime steaks, and as such, are often priced higher (though you may occasionally be able to find a sale). Personally, I like the taste of it, and I think it’s a good alternative. So, the next time you come across a cut of Akaushi beef, maybe give it a try and see if you like it.

Certified Kobe Plaque at the Wynn in Las Vegas

Certified Kobe Plaque at the Wynn in Las Vegas

Where to Buy Your Steaks

Of course, once you know what kind of beef you like, you have to decide where you intend to buy it.

Grocery Store

Typically, the lowest-quality steak is always precut at the grocery store and shrink-wrapped. You have to hope that they didn’t falsify the packaging date, but keep in mind that–as we discussed in Part I–aging beef is not necessarily a bad thing, as long as it’s not spoiled. Alternatively, you can have your piece of meat cut at the grocery store’s meat counter, which has the considerable advantage that you can get exactly the piece of meat you want, in the exact thickness.

A typical grocery store meat counter.

Butcher Shop & Farmer’s Market

Another great source for your steaks is the local butcher shop. While there are chains of butchers, visiting a chain makes it harder to know where things are coming from. Conversely, if you go to an independently owned butcher, they can usually tell you exactly where their cattle is coming from, what breed it is, and why they chose it. Best of all, you can even have your local butcher dry-age certain beef cuts to your exact specifications, ensuring the flavor profile that you most enjoy. Additionally, you can also buy meat from a local farmer’s market; the benefits of this option are that you’ll be able to get to know the farmer well with repeated shopping (as well as learn what his cattle-raising and preparatory techniques are), and be secure in the knowledge that all the money you’re paying goes to him, and not to some marketing or logistics scheme.

Beautiful steak cuts at Lowry Hill Meats - a local butcher shop in Minneapolis

Beautiful steak cuts at Lowry Hill Meats – a local butcher shop in Minneapolis

Online Retailers

When it comes to specialty steaks–especially American-style Wagyu or other very high-end and expensive cuts–you can also buy them online. These cuts will likely come to you in Styrofoam boxes, packed in dry ice to prevent spoiling. You can buy online with confidence; that being said, it’s our experience that the prices you’ll pay for that kind of service are quite high for the quality that you’ll receive.

Snake River Farms American Kobe Wagyu Brisket

American Kobe Wagyu Brisket from online retailer Snake River Farms.

At the end of the day, what kind of steak you buy is entirely up to you. If you go to the grocery store, you’ll likely get the lowest overall price, whereas if you go to your local farmer or butcher, you will probably learn more about where your meat is coming from and what you’re eating. Also, if you like the taste of dry-aged beef, you’ll most often have to go to a butcher shop, or to someone else who really knows how to handle it; it’s not something you can do in your fridge at home.

Additional Tips

Finally, here are a few other tips we recommend when selecting your steaks:

  • How do you know whether a steak is aged so it’s really tender? I always find that if I use my finger and I push into the meat and the meat stays down it is tender, and will remain so once it’s cooked or grilled. Typically, grocery-store steaks are not aged as long, and will spring back immediately when subjected to this “push test.”
  • It’s worth noting that cattle that is stressed out before it’s slaughtered will have meat that tastes differently and feels tougher than meat from cattle that was relaxed at the time of slaughter–ergo, asking local sellers of meat about their techniques is often a desirable course of action.
  • If you and your family are frequent meat eaters, consider buying in larger quantities, such as a half or quarter of a cow. As beef can be frozen and defrosted for individual meals (and in fact, many chefs argue that beef that has been frozen cooks up better than fresher beef from the refrigerator), buying in bulk may be a cost-effective solution for the more carnivorous consumer.
Snake River Farms Wagyu Steak Lover Flight

If your family enjoys read meat frequently, consider buying in bulk.

Conclusion

With the information we’ve presented here, you should now be able to enter your local butcher shop or grocery store as a confident and well-informed customer, and come home with your desired cut(s) of beef. This is just the middle part of the process to enjoying  a great steak, however; after procuring your cuts, you’ve still got to know how to cook them properly. To learn more about this final (and perhaps most important) part of the experience, consult the final part of this Steak Guide; Part III deals with cooking and serving techniques. Additionally, you can go back to reference Part I, which covers basic terminology and our top five preferred cuts. Bon Appétit!

cast iron skillet steak

A preview of what’s to come in Part III – stay tuned!

This steak guide was written by Preston Schlueter, incorporating previous writings by Sven Raphael Schneider.


Gentleman’s Gazette

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I do believe these are fused, but they’re about as good as it gets for fused suits. Also, many an athletic fella (even if they’re a slim athletic fella), swears by Bonobos trousers. That curved waistband and perfectly designed seat does wonders for those with glutes of steel.

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Code TGIF expires today (9/14) though. Yes, it’s good on much more than suits. There’s plenty in their sale section right now. So, probably worth a quick look if you’re a fan of  Bonobos. Big thanks to Bryan B. for passing along the tip.

That’s all. Carry on.


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Rihanna Closes Out New York Fashion Week With a Supermodel Slumber Party

Photo Illustration by The Daily Beast

One year ago, most would have described Rihanna as a “singer.” Now, her title is a little more complicated. Sure, she’s released eight albums (another is on the way, she promised on Twitter this week), but now the Barbadian-born star has entered mogul territory.

After launching her inclusive Fenty Beauty line in September of 2017, Rihanna debuted a lingerie label called Savage in May of this year, and appeared in Ocean’s 8 one month later. It seems like she can do anything—except maybe get a full eight hours of sleep with that busy schedule.

Dancing alone in one’s underwear is about as life-affirming as it gets. Perhaps no one knows that life truth better than Rihanna, who nixed traditional fashion week staging in favor of a supermodel slumber party that reinvented what a lingerie runway show can look like.

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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9 Breakout Trends from New York Fashion Week Spring 2019

New York Fashion Week got a bit of its groove back this season. Designers across the board appeared to be swept up in a fervent, anything-goes type of excitement and creativity for Spring 2019, and in spite of the nonstop rain, the week was fun and it felt buzzy. This was Fashion Week as a …

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12 Purple Highlighters That Are Wearable Offline

 

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The ultimate @badgalriri uses #MATCHSTIX in #UNICORN to set off an ultraviolet soft shimmer lid and lips

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If opalescent ivory is the only highlighter in your makeup kit, you’re missing out. Colored highlighters are key to next-level strobing and achieving that coveted Instagram glow — and purple highlighter is the perfect gateway color.

Purple highlighter is just as wearable as gold or pink, but it can also be used to create a unicorn, ice queen, mermaid or alienesque lewk (if that’s your thing). Purple highlighters vary from the faintest, silvery lavender to bold orchids and violets. No matter the color, don’t judge it until it has been tested on your skin. Purple highlighters often look intense in their packages but have an easy-to-wear sheer finish when applied.

How to Wear All Those Crazy Colored Highlighters ]

Unsure how to wear purple highlighter? Hourglass global makeup artist Chanel Temple suggests pairing it with similar tones on your lips and eyes for a flattering finish or sticking with neutral hues to offset the purple shimmer.

When dusting highlighter on cheeks, Temple cautions against applying the highlighter too close to the nose. If using the product like blush, start about a finger’s width away from your nose for the most sculpted, cut-glass cheekbones. And always remember the importance of blending. When it comes to any highlighter, it’s about a diffused glow as opposed to sharp lines. And go easy because it’s a lot easier to build up the color than it is to take it off.

We’ve got the technique, now we just need the products. Click through the gallery to shop the most flattering purple highlighters that look as good IRL as they do on the ‘gram.

[ Next: The Definitive Guide to Where and How to Apply Highlighter ]

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