Alexander McQueen Resort 2019

A Victorian seaside breeze blew through this collection, which was filled with contrasting elements: hard and soft, chunky and delicate, tailored and fluid. Among Sarah Burton’s inspirations was the British paleontologist Mary Anning, the British shoreline and the era’s obsession for collecting and categorizing bits of nature. There was broderie anglaise everywhere, worked into long white dresses, tunic tops or short ruffle skirts. All that demureness was balanced by leather corset belts, harness tops or thick cashmere sweaters. Other dresses came as sheer lacy knits as delicate as lingerie, with ruffles, bell sleeves or breezy tiers on the skirts. Tailoring had a whiff of Victoriana, too, as in a shell print suit layered over a sheer lacy blouse. A long military coat with a slashed waist had an abstract Union Jack pattern and resembled something that might have washed ashore in a shipwreck.

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Roland Mouret Resort 2019

Roland Mouret is eager for his woman to kick back, relax – or run around – with these fluid, draped clothes, which are meant for all-day or all-night wear.
Mouret described these pieces as “a best companion, a best friend” and said he wants his women to exhale into them. The collection was colorful and meant for movement, with sporty touches such as knits and sleeveless jackets with flashes of perforated fabric and a stretchy lining for a silver sequin gown, with a slit up the front. “You can run in it, move around and dance in it. You can live with this dress,” said the designer.
He worked bouclé stretch into a tailored suit and a fitted skirt and offered up a softly-structured, single–breasted trench with a belted waist. Other athletic touches came in the form of a ribbed knit tank dress and a languid jumpsuit with a stretchy waist, and loose tabard knits in bright colors. Things got even more comfortable with pajama–like tops and jackets that were draped at the back, and long tunic dresses with detachable skirts.

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Rabd Men’s Spring 2019

Name: Rabd
Main message: According to its profile, this brand aims to make “clothing that adds colors and [an] uplifting feeling for everyday life,” but you would never guess it from its spring collection. Designer Kanya Miki, a former assistant to John Galliano, showed a severe collection in shades of black, white and gray. He paired wide-legged, extralong pants with motorcycle jackets or a variety of T-shirts, some with asymmetric lines. While designed for men, the offering was shown on models of both genders to demonstrate its versatility.
The result: Rabd’s first runway outing showed a cohesive and consistent collection, but the looks were so similar that it often seemed they were being repeated over and over.

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Lexus Targets Younger, Urban Drivers with All-New 2019 UX

Lexus is expanding the idea of luxury to attract a younger demographic of drivers. The new 2019 UX is a compact crossover SUV built for motorists in their late 30’s to early 40’s who don’t want to trade in their urbane lifestyles for the suburbs or pay premium gas prices to drive a big, costly car.

It was designed for Xennials — those who fall on the cusp of Generation X and the Millennial generation, typically born in the late 70s to the early 80s — with the understanding that, for many in this market, the UX will be their first-ever Lexus and their first luxury vehicle.

Derived from the words “urban” and “X-over” (crossover), the UX is customized for drivers living in densely populated metro areas like Los Angeles and Chicago. The power control unit of the UX is more powerful than similarly-sized Lexus hybrids, yet it’s 20% smaller and 10% lighter. With a 177-inch length and best-in-segment 34-ft curb-to-curb turning diameter, drivers in urban environments will have the ability to make tight U-turns, parallel park, and maneuver through narrow city streets.

Lexus UX Nori Green (Courtesy of Lexus)

The UX also comes complete with high-tech elements made to support customers’ digital lifestyles. This includes a 10.25-inch display screen that is controlled by a laptop-like touchpad, along with Apple CarPlay and Amazon Alexa integration. The Apple CarPlay feature gives drivers the ability to access Apple Music, Google maps, Waze, and Spotify once they connect their iPhone to the car through a USB cable. Drivers can also make phone calls and send and receive text messages through the multimedia display or with Siri. Plus, UX drivers will be able to lock and unlock their doors, start their engine, and check their fuel level, all from the convenience of using a smartwatch or Amazon Alexa-enabled or Google Assistant-enabled device.

“The Lexus UX is designed for the modern urban explorer seeking a fresh, contemporary and dynamic take on luxury driving,” said Chika Kako, the executive vice president of Lexus International and chief engineer of the UX, in a statement. “We designed the UX to appeal to young buyers who seek not only what is new and exciting, but what is also relevant to their lifestyles.”

Beginning in December, the UX 200 will be available for purchase with a starting suggested retail price of $ 32,000. In January, drivers will have the option to purchase the UX 250h, which will include all-wheel drive, increased power, and better fuel efficiency, for $ 2,000 more.

After giving the UX a test drive in downtown Seattle, Black Enterprise spoke with Michael Moore, the Lexus National Manager for Product Marketing, about the luxury SUV.

Lexus UX

Lexus UX Silver Lining Metallic (Courtesy of Lexus)

BE: What makes the 2019 Lexus UX unique?

It has a very bold design that is unique and different than anything else in its segment. It stands out. It also has a collection of features that make it quite special. The standard LSS, a safety system that is basically best in its class, the LED headlights, and best in class fuel economy. On top of that, there’s also a very engaging driving experience that the UX delivers.

BE: What makes the vehicle appealing to young, urban drivers?

It’s purpose-built for an urban environment. It has a compact size. It has surprising interior space considering its size, but because of the platform its built on and its packaging, it has a turning radius that is ideal in congested environments. For younger buyers in an urban environment, that is going to be very appealing. Having great fuel economy and being able to maneuver in very tight spaces makes it very compatible for an urban environment.

While the UX will certainly appeal to this younger demographic, we also see some people that are a bit older that are moving back to an urban environment, that were maybe in the suburbs raising kids and now they want to come back to the city. They’re ready to come back an urban environment – the UX may appeal to them as well.

BE: As a millennial driver, I found three particular features in the UX to be very appealing: the technology, the pricing, and the fact that the engine takes regular fuel, a rare feature for a luxury vehicle. Can you elaborate about each?

Gas mileage

Lexus has been a leader in hybrid technology for years. We were the first manufacturer to offer a luxury vehicle that was a hybrid, so we have generations of experience with hybrid technology and we’ve built upon that. A lot of that technology and advancement has really proven itself with the UX; we can actually deliver a vehicle that has best in class fuel economy, not just in its segment, but it has better fuel economy than any SUV on the market.

Pricing 

It has a really attractive price, starting at $ 32,000 for the gas model and $ 34,000 for the all-wheel-drive hybrid model. And then for the [Lexus] F SPORT, it’s just $ 2,000 on top of either the gas or the hybrid model. It has a really compelling value story relative to its competitive set.

Technology

The technology, we think, really speaks to this young consumer. CarPlay [and] Alexa are very seamless technologies that allow the owner to stay connected and perform tasks in a very easy simple way.

BE: While in Seattle, I had an opportunity to preview a UX video ad that underscores diversity. Why is it important for Lexus, as a brand, to celebrate diversity and inclusion?

For 23 years, I’ve been associated with the Lexus brand, either on the product development side, or on the advance planning side, or doing what I’m doing now on the marketing side. With my current role here in marketing, the work we do with Walter Isaacson, which is our diversity agency partner, and the way that we communicate to a multicultural audience is really important to us. It is our belief that you need to be a good partner in the communities where you do business. It’s more than just putting a TV ad on and selling a vehicle. It’s connecting with an audience and being part of that community. It’s something that I’ve been very proud of — not just on the work that I do, but being able to connect as a representative of the company to that audience. It’s not just important for me, it’s important to the company.

 


This interview was lightly edited for brevity and clarity.

The post Lexus Targets Younger, Urban Drivers with All-New 2019 UX appeared first on Black Enterprise.

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Memuse RTW Spring 2019

Name: Memuse
Main message: Risa Aizawa evoked a child’s dress-up party with her latest show, seating a group of models in nude undergarments, neutral colored heels and blonde bob wigs on the floor in the center of her runway. Around them walked more models, who wore her fairytale-esque designs. With sweet, girly looks such as tulle or lace dresses covered in bows, frills and ruffles shown alongside more casual, real-world pieces including see-through raincoats and an oversize, gathered T-shirt dress printed with a cartoon character with eyes in her hair, it was like a modern-day “Alice in Wonderland.” Aizawa’s pastel palette and opulent textures, which included velour and jacquard, were contrasted by an out-of-place ankle-length, frilled frock in bright magenta, yellow, orange, blue and green.
The result: Considering her background working in a “maid café” and as a Japanese pop star, it’s not surprising that Aizawa’s design sensibility draws heavily from Tokyo subculture. And while the collection is unlikely to garner a widespread following, it’s sure to appeal to her fans and target audience.

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Here’s How Much You Can Contribute to 401(k)s and IRAs in 2019

If you’re all about saving for retirement and putting away as much as you can, we’ve got some good news.

Starting in 2019, you can contribute $ 500 more to your 401(k) and individual retirement account (IRA) than you were allowed to in 2018.

New 401(k) and IRA Contribution Limits

In 2019, the U.S. government will raise the personal 401(k) contribution max from $ 18,500 to $ 19,000 annually. The annual contribution max for IRA accounts will also increase, from $ 5,500 to $ 6,000. That’s an extra $ 1,000 that you can tuck away and have working for you and your future.

The 401(k) maximum does not include employer contributions, so your freebie dough is off the hook.

The increase means your total contribution allowance is $ 25,000 for 2019.

Sweet, right?

OK, we’ll be real. Not many of us are putting away that much money. If you get paid every two weeks like most of us, you’re looking at more than $ 1,000 taken out of each paycheck to reach that lofty $ 25,000 by year’s end.

Another way to look at it is that if you make $ 125,000 annually, you can now stash a full 20% of your paycheck. What would that add up to, you ask?

If you were to start with no money and saved this much each year for 35 years, you’d have $ 665,000 before interest in your 401(k) and $ 193,000 before interest in your Roth IRA. Factor in a modest 6% return on investment, and the combined number jumps to just under $ 3 million. That’s a nice little chunk of change for your golden years.

The trick is to not dip into your retirement savings before you retire.

But let’s face it: Most of us don’t earn $ 125,000 a year and don’t put 20% of our salaries in our retirement accounts.

For now, contribute as much as you can to your 401(k) without putting your financial health at risk. A good starting point is to see how much your employer matches and try to at least hit that number. Here’s a simple 401(k) guide to get you jump started.

Consider opening a traditional or Roth IRA account if you don’t have one already.

Who knows? Perhaps you’ll reach that $ 25,000 annual contribution ceiling eventually. #lifegoals

Tyler Omoth is a senior writer at The Penny Hoarder who loves soaking up the sun and finding creative ways to help others. Catch him on Twitter at @Tyomoth.

The Penny Hoarder Promise: We provide accurate, reliable information. Here’s why you can trust us and how we make money.

This was originally published on The Penny Hoarder, which helps millions of readers worldwide earn and save money by sharing unique job opportunities, personal stories, freebies and more. The Inc. 5000 ranked The Penny Hoarder as the fastest-growing private media company in the U.S. in 2017.


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Berluti Men’s Spring 2019

While fellow designers Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton were making splashy runway debuts in June, Kris Van Assche was quietly unveiling his first collection for Berluti to buyers in showroom appointments.
Editors discovered the collection this week, when it was presented in a temporary glass-walled pavilion designed by Jean Prouvé, set up on the Place de la Concorde in Paris to coincide with the FIAC contemporary art fair.
Designed as a prologue to his first runway show, scheduled for January, the capsule line reflected the mix of tailoring and sportswear that has been a trademark of Van Assche’s previous work, both at Dior men’s and for his own label.
Cropped-leg suits and white shirts, some with black leather patches, rubbed shoulders with smart cashmere blousons and hoodies, including one in paper-thin red lamb leather.
Van Assche used the Scritto, an 18th-century manuscript motif that normally appears on Berluti shoes, in a variety of guises: as a graphic black print on a white T-shirt, a multicolored pattern on a black shirt, or tone-on-tone jacquard accents on a cream tuxedo.
The house’s trademark patina appeared as a blue and red colorway deployed across clothing — such as a cashmere and silk crewneck

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Christopher Kane Resort 2019

The designer took Tokyo’s dark side as his theme for this racy collection of neon sign colors, and textures and silhouettes that nodded to the city’s myriad sex clubs. The rubberized red lace dress and matching coat encapsulated the dark and slightly sinister mood of the collection, which was shot at night by Laurence Ellis.
Lacy lingerie dresses with barely there, rounded skirts had a Goth feel, as did a see-through black dress layered over a bright purple bra. There were some razor-sharp edges, too, in the form of pointed, jutting lapels on a black, rhinestone-edged satin coat and sporty tailored jacket. Softness came in the form of a two-tone hoodie with “More Baby More” written in iridescent letters across the front and a long and billowy white shirt proclaiming that universal truth: “Sh** Happens.”
During a walk-through, Kane said Tokyo has always offered “endless inspiration for me,” adding that his love of subversion is “never at the expense of the clothes. I want to empower women when they put on my work.”

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These 5 health benefit enrollment mistakes could cost you in 2019

Defaulting into the previous year's health-care options might cost you extra. Here are the common errors workers are likely to make when they select their benefits for 2019.
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Figue RTW Spring 2019

Stephanie von Watzdorf was awash in the afterglow of the Meghan Markle effect when presenting her spring Figue collection. The Duchess of Sussex wore a floral dress from the collection for her first speech on the royal tour in Fiji earlier this week. “She’s in Fiji, which is one of my dream destinations, and she’s talking about women’s empowerment and education, which is so on my radar, aside from animals and outfits,” said von Watzdorf, adding that Markle’s effect on sales is real.
As for the spring collection, von Watzdorf titled it Nomad Love. She culled decorative elements — stripes, beading, florals, embroidery — from nomadic tribes the world over and coalesced them into pajama tops and bottoms, silk and cotton caftans, peasant tops and robes that fit the bill for pretty, bohemian style whether you’re wandering the globe or going about your everyday life and want something that telegraphs “summer.” What felt newest were airy, voluminous cotton dresses in polka dots, a quilted ikat robe and a great pearl and evil eye jewelry collaboration with Beck Jewels.

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Tory Sport RTW Spring 2019

Two-and-a-half years after Tory Burch launched Tory Sport, the brand’s performance results are coming in. “It’s interesting to start to see what the business is coming to,” Burch said last week during a preview of the spring collection. “We’re starting to see what makes sense, less is more, and what is working for us.” The collection is not just cute, colorful and branded, although it is definitively all of those things — it’s also become a viable player in terms of performance wear. Yoga and running, particularly the seamless pieces, are doing well, as is golf.
For spring, Burch amped up the color with the Bauhaus principles of form and function in mind, working in fuchsia, red, green, blue and white in graphic stripes and lots of chevron. The clothes she wore to play sports in high school in the Seventies were on her mind, so chevron track jackets and silky soccer jerseys were updated in lightweight, breathable, moisture-wicking fabrics as opposed to the pure polyester the vintage styles came in. Weatherproof outerwear stood out, as did a few fabulous chunky hand knit cotton sweaters that fell into Tory Sport’s “coming and going” category. There was a new tennis skort and

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Sri Lanka ranked top country for travel in 2019 by Lonely Planet

Improved train services mean it’s easier than ever to explore Sri Lanka but campaigners warn a surge in tourism could ruin its natural beauty

Almost 10 years after the end of its civil war, Sri Lanka has been named the best country in the world to visit in 2019 by Lonely Planet. Better transport links, new hotels and a growing number of activities were cited as the reason the south-Asian island was chosen for the top spot in the guidebook publisher ’s annual Best in Travel awards.

“Already notable to intrepid travellers for its mix of religions and cultures, its timeless temples, its rich and accessible wildlife, its growing surf scene and its people who defy all odds by their welcome and friendliness after decades of civil conflict, this is a country revived,” says Lonely Planet author Ethan Gelber in the Best in Travel 2019 book, published today.

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Shohei RTW Spring 2019

Name: Shohei
Main message: Austrian designer Lisa Pek lived in Japan for two years, designing for a Japanese company. Not only did she meet her Japanese husband during this time, but the experience also shaped her design sensibility. She focuses on unique materials, including both sustainable fabrics and innovative performance textiles “in order to create fashion with a dynamic attitude.” In her debut Tokyo show, she used tech fabrics to craft color-blocked parkas, shorts and tube tops in navy, black, beige and orange. While Pek designs for both genders, the men’s offerings mimicked the designs for women, including jackets with zip-off sleeves and pants that unzipped to create shorts. Asymmetrical cutting and folding techniques added an edge to athleisure-style tube tops and dresses with drawstring details, while shirting fabrics were layered with jersey and other textiles to create deconstructed blouses.
The result: Pek’s European interpretation of Japanese style was an interesting addition to Tokyo Fashion Week, and demonstrated that the designer has potential to succeed both at home and abroad.

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The Top Spring 2019 Fashion Trends From the Runways

From New York and London to Milan and Paris, designers have dictated the top spring fashion trends. The trends ranged from voluminous drama to insta-ready bike shorts. See below and click through the gallery above for WWD’s analysis of the overall strong season.
Here, a look at WWD’s top nine fashion trends from the spring runways.
 
BIKE SHORTS: The spring runways gave a new spin to traditional bike shorts through sartorial styling, updated fabrics and even a few unitard silhouettes.
COCKTAIL SHAKERS: WWD’s genre of the short, sexy dresses, garnished with ample sass and retro feel.
CRAFT FAIR: Artisanal flourishes lent an artful aura to the spring collections. Craft elements such as patchwork, fringing, fabric bundles and hand-painting infused the clothes with personality and emotion.
PASTELS: Gentle pastels were everywhere for spring. While frothy dresses worked the expected side of a gentle palette, designers also drew from it to infuse sporty and street looks with an offbeat prettiness.
PICTORIALS: Pictorials were all over the spring runways in jacquards, intarsias and a multitude of prints. Interpretations ranged from beachside imagery and outdoor scenery at Etro and Prada to Jeremy Scott’s Polaroid self-portraits with edge.
PLEATS: These aren’t your typical folds. Designers pushed their creative juices to make this season’s standout

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St. John RTW Spring 2019

St. John presented a more streamlined and sleek collection during an intimate cocktail presentation in place of a showroom appointment for spring 2019. The brand felt even more elevated with mostly mannequins dressed in neutrals at the forefront of the floor-to-ceiling walls of the Glass Houses penthouse venue.
“We thought highlighting black, navy and white just sort of synthesized and streamlined it to the silhouette and form — to highlight slacks, jackets, dresses. There’s tons more color as well though,” explained Tom Jarrold, the brand’s senior vice president of marketing, branding and communications.
The silhouettes were light and easy: a long caftan continued from resort was updated in white, but also offered short and in fiery red. Transparencies made for important details in the collection on dresses and blazers. The brand is making due diligence to keep new collections close to its core DNA — continuing long line and tweed jackets, a wide array of “New Standard” basics, and dresses — while maintaining a less embellished, tightly edited and focused approach going forward.

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Knicks gamble by letting Kristaps Porzingis become restricted free agent in 2019

Kristaps Porzingis will hit free agency.

The Knicks gambled with their future and did not sign their star Latvian to the five-year, $ 158 million contract extension by Monday’s deadline, adding pressure on the front office to sign another star in the summer.

In an ideal Knicks world – which hasn’t…

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Anton Belinskiy RTW Spring 2019

Ukrainian designer Anton Belinskiy’s first fashion show had religious airs. Incense burned on the steps inside the Palais de Tokyo, while some models sported wimples.
Belinskiy explored the concept of belief, whether religious or just as a way of giving meaning to life. He relied on the imagery of the Orthodox Church, in reference to his mother’s faith and his own trips to the local church in Kiev. Religious nods were given a pop-culture spin: tiny icons were printed on simple cotton T-shirts, while a rainbow-hued circular icon was depicted on a pink beaded crop top.
Models, both male and female, carried big sports bags. “When people retreat into religion, they pack up all their belongings and disappear,” explained the designer, who founded his brand in 2009. Film stills from “Adam and Eve” were printed on leggings, skirts and trousers. Some models wore seashell necklaces, other carried ceramic donation baskets.
The show was fast-paced and youthful, but the looks were a bit all over the place. An orange shiny jumpsuit was followed by a denim leotard worn with colorful leggings, then a Hawaiian shirt, finally a black deconstructed bustier dress. Despite this, the whole offering was energetic and exciting. The finalist for the

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Photo Flash: Audra McDonald and Renee Fleming Open the 2018- 2019 Season at Carnegie Hall with The San Francisco Symphony

Tonight, Carnegie Hall opened its 2018-2019 season with a sold out gala benefit concert featuring theSan Francisco Symphonyconducted by Music Director and Carnegie Hall Perspectives artistMichael Tilson Thomas.The programincluded Gershwin’sCuban OvertureandAn American in Parisas well as Liszt’sMephisto WaltzNo. 1. Mr. Tilson Thomas and the orchestra were joined on this celebratory occasion by renowned sopranosRenee FlemingandAudra McDonaldoffering vocal selections by Gershwin, Rodgers, Villa-Lobos, Stephen Sondheim, and others.
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Pihakapi RTW Spring 2019

Canadian designer Vejas Kruszewski, who won the LVMH Prix Spécial prize in 2016, chose to put his namesake brand on hold to focus on a new project. Now in its second season, Pihakapi, a brand developed in partnership with Italian leather manufacturer Pellemoda, blends high-quality leather with the 21-year-old-designer’s radical vision.
“Because the brand is leather-focused, I like to build the collection around the outerwear,” said Kruszewski at the presentation of his spring collection (the first offering was shown during men’s fashion week, Pihakapi being a unisex brand.)
A black leather trenchcoat featured details from this season’s key inspirations: mini leather horns recalling the anatomy of the stag beetle on the sleeves and a flame shaped cowboy collar. The same details were reworked on denim and jersey, as well as on a side-slit black slipdress, a welcome update to the wardrobe staple.
“I was really interested in reworking Western wear,” said the designer, gesturing to a white linen skirt with a black leather holster detail. He also created a pair of “refined chaps,” playing on the dichotomy between leather and fabric. The chocolate-colored leather added texture and serious flair to a pair of well-cut black trousers. Throwing in a couple of Grecian draped

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Harry Styles and Lady Gaga Will Be Hosting the ‘Camp’-Themed, Gucci-Backed 2019 Met Gala

“Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” may have brought us Rihanna in a red carpet-appropriate iteration of papal robes and become the most-visited exhibition in Costume Institute history. But the next fashion exhibition to take residence at the Metropolitan Museum of Art has …

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Tesla outsold Mercedes-Benz in the US last quarter and might actually turn a profit before 2019

Model 3

Despite all of the drama surrounding Elon Musk’s tussle with the SEC, and despite Tesla’s early troubles ramping up Model 3 production, the company has slowly but steadily improved production across its entire vehicular lineup. During the recent September quarter, for example, Tesla said that it manufactured 80,142 vehicles and delivered 83,500 vehicles to customers. Speaking to how fast Tesla is growing, the company earlier this month explained: “We delivered more than 80% of the vehicles that we delivered in all of 2017, and we delivered about twice as many Model 3s as we did in all previous quarters combined.”

Demand has never been much of a problem for Tesla, and now it appears that the electric automaker is finally getting a firmer handle on supply. In fact, a new report from Atherton Research relays that Tesla during the recent third quarter outsold Mercedes-Benz in the U.S. for the first time in history. What’s more, the report adds that Tesla was just 2,000 vehicles away from outselling BMW.

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LE LABO IS LOOKING FOR AN INTERN (PAID), STARTING JANUARY 2019 IN BROOKLYN, NY– PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Le Labo is a New York-based niche perfume company where each perfume is hand blended at the moment of purchase. Le Labo is a fast-growing dynamic company looking for an intern to join our product development team and help us with the following tasks. This internship is an ideal opportunity for …

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Kolor RTW Spring 2019

A campaign video filmed in Hollywood and a tacky karaoke bar on the outskirts of Tokyo served as the perfect backdrop for this fun, crafty collection, with the models sped up and slowed down.
The signature inventiveness of Junichi Abe, an experienced patternmaker, was in fine form with offbeat touches like an accumulation of fabric textures on a skirt, the haphazard embroidery on lace collars of sweaters, and lines of tape used to join layers to garments — including a red tulle layer on a black T-shirt — or rework volumes, giving a DIY spin.
A series of triple-layered hi-tech anoraks mixing colors and materials to create depth were terrific. More cute in mood were the colored marled knits with contrast lace accents.
The designer also revisited traditional checks in polyester on neo-geek shirts, with oversized shapes used throughout the collection.

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Inès de la Fressange RTW Spring 2019

The collection, presented in a salon at the Ritz Paris, was strangely wrinkled. Not to worry — it was all part of Inès de la Fressange’s vision of Parisian chic. “People are scared of linen and see it as a difficult fabric,” said the designer. “But I wanted to show that things needn’t be perfectly ironed. It gives the feeling that you’re still on holiday.”
Nevertheless the effect was scruffy, and diverted the attention from the stronger points of the collection. There was a pair of “new denim” straight leg trousers in dark blue linen, created in reaction to the Parisian heat wave; a cowboy style red shirt — “because you can look Parisian wearing a shirt from Texas” — and an elegant two-piece beige checked suit, that de la Fressange herself was wearing.
Masculine-inspired tailoring was as efficient as always, but the designer seemed tired of churning out the same old “Parisienne” ideal. “People always think that chic has to be conventional, when there isn’t necessarily a link between the two things,” she said. “I’m bored with conventionalism.”
In reaction to that, the collection went full Seventies, with colorful printed silk shirts and flared trousers. The whole offering seemed to miss the

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Sacai RTW Spring 2019

Chitose Abe does what she does and she does it incredibly well. The colors, the patterns, the references change from season to season but the template remains the same — hybrid dressing. She makes it look easy. She makes it wearable. Keeping it current is a matter of her impeccable taste and exacting eye.
For spring, she cast her gaze on crisp white cottons, tuxedo shirts, fisherman jackets, florescent colors, trenchcoat khaki, denim, madras, polo shirts and painterly collages. That’s a lot of ground to cover and material blend without making a mess. Abe has pared down from her earlier collections. The volumes are more controlled, the number of garments fused together limited so a woman can break out a piece and work it into her wardrobe without fear of looking like a clown.
To list off all the looks in the spring lineup would be exhausting. The whites were worn with white. Trenches were fused with denim jackets. Polos merged into the painterly. It all made sense, if it didn’t warrant much in terms of critical assessment. It is what it is. It’s very good. How will it advance? It very well might not.

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