New couple alert? Now that Amelia (Caterina Scorsone) is officially single, could she actually have something going on with Link (Chris Carmack)? It sure seemed like
it during the Thursday, March 14, Grey’s Anatomy episode. While they were away at a conference together, the sparks were flying, and a lot of flirting was happening.
Then, it all went downhill when Link gave a presentation about a patient of his who died in a car accident when he was under the influence of opioids that Link had originally prescribed to him after a surgery. He said that he would have made the same decision to prescribe him the pain killers, and with Amelia’s history with addiction, that was it — she didn’t need to hear anything else. She left the room.
At the end of the day, Link came to Amelia’s hotel room, but she didn’t exactly welcome him with open arms. She felt like Link failed that patient, and in a way, Link agreed. He admitted that the system is broken and that he’s trying to change it, and in the meantime, he thinks they should work together to make a difference.
“Sorry, I’ve been in a weird place these days,” Amelia admitted … and Link’s response? “We’re both weird.”
Cue the make out. Yep, there’s definitely something going on here.
The Lamb Experiment Goes So Wrong
Now that DeLuca (Giacomo Gianniotti) and his dad are officially working together on the medical breakthrough that could help save preterm babies, they have a lot of obstacles to overcome — and it’s not just because they lost one of the lambs in their experiment. People are starting to become suspicious of Vincenzo DeLuca (guest star Lorenzo Caccialanza), and Carina (Stefania Spampinato) has never been more sure that he’s bipolar. Since his mental illness is untreated, he could end up ruining the experiment.
But no matter what’s going on with his dad, DeLuca is determined not to let it ruin what could be his big break … but he is starting to get frustrated with his behavior. And it all bubbled over when Vincenzo offered to use his procedure on one of Teddy’s patients, giving them false hope when it hadn’t been approved for use on human babies yet.
Finally, DeLuca had to confront him, and this led him to bring up the night when everything changed for their family: a night when four people died when Vincenzo tried to treat them but was unable to do so properly.
Alex (Justin Chambers) chose to end the experiment, but Vincenzo didn’t take it well, and he threw a tantrum, blaming him, DeLuca and Carina for the death of the baby who they didn’t allow to have the procedure.
Jo’s Search Continues
Jo (Camilla Luddington) and Alex are starting to think about their future together, and Jo is on a mission to find out where she comes from, and that started with a DNA test. After getting her results back, she found out that she has a cousin, but was it a good idea to try to meet her in person?
Jo thought about asking Maggie (Kelly McCreary) if it was a good idea, since she’d taken a chance by meeting Meredith and Richard and had a good experience, but Jackson (Jesse Williams) told her that after reconnecting with his father, he only had regrets, which only left her even more confused.
But her curiosity got the best of her, and Jo decided to go for it. She’s finding her family, starting with her mom — who just so happens to be a woman named Vicky who lives in Pittsburgh. Could this be what she’s been waiting for?
Grey’s Anatomy airs on ABC Thursdays at 8 p.m. ET.
Happy Valentine’s Day! Now that the most romantic holiday of the year has hit Seattle (a bit early), Meredith (Ellen Pompeo) was once again faced with the choice between DeLuca (Giacomo Gianniotti) and Link (Chris Carmack) on the Thursday, February 7, episode of Grey’s Anatomy. Did she make the right one?
Instead of going to the New Year’s Eve party hosted by Jo (Camilla Luddington) and Alex (Justin Chambers) — the one that was meant to be her first date with DeLuca — she ended up at the hospital with her patient, who finally came out of a long coma. But after he was stood up at the party, DeLuca was upset that Meredith didn’t even bother to call.
“I used to think you were so beyond me, but you’re not. You’re like a kid, playing hide and seek, hiding behind a million excuses,” DeLuca told her. And that pissed Meredith off so much that she turned around and asked Link out on a date for Valentine’s Day … right in front of DeLuca.
But after she watched her patient pass away minutes after marrying her husband in her hospital bed, DeLuca surprised her with champagne on the hospital roof, giving her the Valentine’s Day date she didn’t expect – while Link sat alone at the restaurant where she was supposed to meet him. Ouch.
The Truth About Betty
Amelia (Caterina Scorsone) went to visit Betty (Peyton Kennedy) at rehab for the holidays, and she was really struggling being sober and not being able to get back to drugs, which she admitted made her feel better than being Leo’s mom. Later, when Amelia came back with Owen (Kevin McKidd), Betty had a lot to tell them: Now that she’s starting the 12-step program, she has to make amends and come clean about what she’s been lying about all this time.
Not only is her name actually Brittany, but her parents don’t know where she is — and they have no idea that she had a baby (or was even pregnant in the first place). She refused to share any other information, so it was almost impossible for Owen and Amelia to track down her real parents.
But the biggest question for Amelia and Owen: Once they find Betty’s real parents, will they get to keep Leo?
Ben and Bailey’s Relationship Is on the Line
Ben (Jason Winston George) and Bailey (Chandra Wilson) have a major strain to work out in their marriage, and now that the holidays are here, the time has finally come for them to figure things out. Although they had been separated, Bailey finally asked Ben to come home, but Ben wasn’t having it — no matter how much she tried to convince him she had her anxiety under control.
“Miranda, I love you, but you broke my heart,” Ben told her. “I’m not coming home just because you’re lonely, and the fence needs patching.”
However, when Bailey came home, she found Ben at their house, building her a surprise treehouse. He promised he would be by her side, as long as she would do things together — including working through her own mental health issues. So true love does exist … at least, it does for these two.
Grey’s Anatomy airs on ABC Thursdays at 8 p.m. ET.
Dress shoes, structurally, may be the most complex thing you wear every day. In this article, we’ll break down the component parts of a pair of shoes so you can shoe shop like an expert.
Recently on The Gentleman’s Gazette, we’ve discussed the stylistic features that make up a suit and a pair of pants. Continuing further from head to toe, we end up with shoes. When we buy them, we usually choose them first for the style and fit, but rarely for their individual construction.
It’s worth a look at the individual parts of a dress shoe so you can be a smart shopper.
The Anatomy of a Dress Shoe
In the broadest sense, a shoe is divided into two main parts, the upper, which is everything on top of your foot plus the lining, and the sole, which makes up the underside. Let’s start by taking a look at the upper, the more visible part of the shoe, moving from front to back.
The upper is made by stretching leather over a last, a carved form usually made of wood, and leaving it there for some time so that it molds to its shape.
It is eventually secured to the sole with either glue or nails. At the very front of the upper, we have the toe, which can either be simple or embellished, perhaps with a medallion.
This is a pattern made up of perforations in the leather, which makes it somewhat more casual, an unadorned toe being more formal than one with ornamentation. Toe shape on a shoe can vary, and whether it is rounded, almond shaped, or chiseled, plays an important role in the appearance and visual impression of the shoe as well as how comfortably it fits.
Directly behind the toe is the vamp. This is the area that flexes when you walk and is thus subject to creasing. You never want to apply polish, especially wax polish, to the vamp, as it will dry there and crack when the shoe creases, creating a cloudy and caked appearance.
Though some creasing of the vamp is inevitable simply by virtue of the way your foot flexes, it can be minimized by buying shoes made of quality leather and then by storing them with shoe trees to keep the vamp stretched out.
The vamp is the area where the shoe creases most
After this come the quarters. The quarters include everything on the upper, including where the laces are up to where the leather wraps around the back of the heel; in essence, the quarters are the sides and back of the shoe. The nature of the quarters is what determines the difference between a derby and an oxford lace-up shoe.
On the former, the quarters are stitched over the vamp, creating two flaps that are then tied together with laces; on the latter, you have the opposite, with the vamp stitched over the quarters. This makes for a cleaner, and therefore more formal, look since there aren’t any top flaps of leather. When tying a derby, there will always be some gapping between the flaps, which is referred to as an open lacing system.
On the other hand, the gap on an oxford is minimal, which is why it is referred to as having a closed lacing system.
The laces themselves are threaded through eyelets, usually five pairs, sometimes four, which are punched through the area known as the facing of the shoe. Beneath the facing, you’ll find the tongue, a piece of leather that looks like its anatomical namesake. We don’t usually think of the tongue of having a specific purpose–it’s just “there”–but it’s actually designed to protect the top of your foot from the pressure of the laces.
At the back of the shoe is the topline, which is the top edge of the hole into which you put your foot. At the heel, the topline is supported internally by additional leather reinforcement known as the heel counter.
Protecting the heel counter is the reason why you should always use a shoehorn when putting on and taking off dress shoes: jamming your heel against the topline as you force your foot down into the shoe will cause the leather there to buckle and collapse. This can leave permanent wrinkles or deform the area, ruining the fit.
Inside the shoe you have the insole, which in a dress shoe should be made of soft leather. The insole provides comfortable, smooth padding for your foot to rest upon.
This footbed contrasts the hard outsole–the lowest part of the shoe–which touches the ground. Between the insole and outsole is the midsole, which can be made up of cork, for cushioning.
Also under the instep of your foot, manufacturers may place a shank–a thin rectangular strip of metal, wood, or fiberglass–that helps to support the foot. The choice of shank material, and whether to use one at all, depends on the brand. For instance, according to a Reddit survey, Crockett & Jones uses wood, Meermin uses steel, and Allen Edmonds doesn’t use anything at all.
Forming the transition between the upper and the outsole is the welt. This is a thin strip of leather that protrudes around the edge of the outsole to which the upper is secured.
Connoisseurs of footwear will know that the two ways to do this are with a Goodyear welt or Blake stitching. Goodyear welted shoes, named for a machine originally manufactured by Goodyear, are more expensive because of the way the outsole is attached to the upper, which involves a more complex double-stitch approach. Because of this, they can be resoled fairly easily by a cobbler.
The Blake method, on the other hand, involves a simpler stitching method where the insole, upper and outsole are joined together with a single stitch that, while simple to create is difficult to repair.
Because it is made completely inside the structure of the shoe with a machine, resoling the shoe is difficult if your cobbler doesn’t possess said machine. And, even then, it is a more laborious and potentially more costly process. For this reason, and because the complexity of Goodyear welting is also matched with other higher quality features, a Goodyear welted shoe is usually worth the investment.
The outsole is the lowermost part of the shoe and has to satisfy the double demands of supporting the full weight of the wearer and standing up to the friction of walking on the ground. In a dress shoe, the outsole is commonly made of leather, which is the most elegant, but Dainite (rubber) is also a popular option for those who want more grip and greater water resistance. The thickness of the leather can vary, with multiple layers of outsole appearing in chunkier country derby shoes like those made by Tricker’s or Church’s in the UK. These may be referred to as “double leather” soles.
With an outsole made of leather there are more opportunities for various structural details that add to its elegance and craftsmanship. One example is a beveled or fiddleback waist.
This used to be seen only on bespoke shoes, but newer technologies have made it accessible in ready-to-wear models. The waist is the narrowest part of the sole, located between the heel and the ball of the foot, directly below the arch of your foot, just as the waist is the narrowest part of the torso in an ideal physique. Beveling the waist shaves down the leather there and gives it a sharp chiseled appearance. The fiddlehead waist occurs when a beveled waist is extended into a V shape toward the direction of the toe.
Finally, we have the heel at the bottom rear of the shoe. Like the outsole, the heel can be built up with individual layers of leather or rubber, and sometimes a combination of both. Rubber is usually reserved for the back edge of the heel, as shown in the Gaziano & Girling image above to provide a measure of grip.
A high-quality dress shoe will usually join the rubber to the leather with a dovetailed joint. An additional touch that you may find on the heel is known as the gentleman’s notch or gentleman’s corner.
This is a notch sliced from the inside front corner of the heel that was originally designed to keep the wearer’s trouser hem from catching on the heel in the course of raising and lowering his legs while walking. This would really only happen with very wide legged pant more common during the Golden Age of menswear, so it’s really a vestige of the past than something with an actual purpose now; however, it’s a nod to tradition and a sign of an attention to detail.
Shoes are described as being constructed, and true to that term, they are really built of many component parts that come together to make a coherent whole. Usually, we choose shoes based on how they look and how they fit, which are important considerations, rather than for the individual structural features. However, developing an eye for everything that goes into a shoe helps you assess the quality and workmanship.
What parts of the shoe are most important to you? Tell us in the comments.
How well do you know your hats? Let us discuss the key vocabulary for traditional men’s hats, common shapes and styles, and traditional construction materials.
The gents at Pitti Uomo
Parts Of The Hat
Crease or Pinch
Pinch / Crease
The pinch or crease refers to the indentations made along the front, back, and sides of the hat in conjunction with the overall crown shape. One tip related to this specific part of the hat, don’t handle your hats by the crease. It seems natural to do this because of the way that it fits into the hand but if you handle your hats by the crease often, your hands are eventually going to leave oil on the surface of the hat and that might stain it so it’s best to always carry your hat by the brim.
As you might guess, refers to the central body of the hat. The part that extends upward covering the head. In most cases, the natural shape of a hat’s crown is a dome, although exceptions do exist such as the straw boater, through a process called blocking where water and steam is applied to the surface of a hat, it can be shaped into any number of different crown configurations. While water and steam are applied to the crown to shape it, it’s also stretched over a pre-existing form usually made of wood or metal. This is how the hat can hold its shape after it dries. One other note here, the uppermost peak of the crown is sometimes referred to as the tip.
Brown fedora with contrasting hat band
This is the strip of decorative material encircling the crown positioned just above the brim. It’s most often made from a ribbon which can feature a bow or a series of decorative folds, a leather strip, or a piece of braided cord which can sometimes feature tassels. The Hat band is also sometimes accented further by a decorative pin or a feather.
Short Brimmed Feather hat
The brim is the horizontal ledge protruding from the bottom of the hat and extending outward providing shade and protection from the elements for the wearer. The width and style of the brim in conjunction with the shape of the crown are the two things that most directly contribute to a hat’s overall type or classification. The shape and curvature of the brim from front to back and from side to side is sometimes collectively referred to as the flange of a hat.
Panama Hat with Rakish Brim
Another style tip here, while it’s a good idea to carry your hat and take it on and off by use of the brim, don’t store your hat sitting on its brim when you’re not wearing it. If you do this, the brim can lose its shape over time so the best course of action when you set your hat down is to place it upside down so that it’s resting on the top of the crown. Alternatively, you can keep your hats on a hat rack, this way, you don’t have to worry about brim or the crown losing their shapes over time.
One other note related somewhat to storing your hats, when it comes to cleaning, you should occasionally brush your hats with a hat brush to make sure that they don’t accumulate dust or any other sorts of particles.
Under brim. Simply enough just refers to the underside of the brim, that’s all there is to it.
Brim Binding or Edging. Refers to the specific styling around the outermost edge of the hat’s brim. The edging can be done in any number of ways; you can have a raw cut edge, a sewn edge, a ribbon edge, a leather banded edge, or a hand felted edge which is also known as a Cavanagh edge.
The optional piece of fabric on the inside of a hat usually made from cotton or silk, though sometimes made from velvet that will feature the hat maker’s trademark most of the time. For estate hats which is to say, vintage pre-owned hats, or for hats that are yours that have seen a considerable amount of wear, you may occasionally want to clean the inner lining. This can be done with a little bit of soap and water. Alternatively, you can just remove the inner lining as I’ve done with many of my own personal hats.
The sweatband or inner band is a strip just inside the crown that keeps the hat better fitted to the wearer’s head and also diverts perspiration. It’s most typically made of leather for felt hats and made of fabric for straw hats. One tip here, if you flip the sweatband inside out when you’re storing your hats, which again should be done upside down, that will help the sweatband to air out so that perspiration or hair product don’t accumulate there over time.
Black Fedora With Snap Brim and Piping
We’ll start with the term snap brim which simply refers to a brim that can be snapped or turned on different parts. Usually, it’s done in the front and left up in the back. This is a common feature for fedoras and trilbies in particular.
White blazer, white knit tie, straw, short brim hat & sunglasses in pocket
The term stingy brim describes a hat with a very short brim usually of about one to two inches and the term can also be considered a style of hat in its own right though you won’t necessarily see that done too often.
Packable / Crushable
You might sometimes see hats described as being packable or crushable. A common misconception about this term is that the hat can be really beaten up, totally scrunched down into a ball and that it will perfectly reform itself once you take it out and shape it a little bit. That isn’t necessarily true, while hats marked as packable or crushable can generally receive a little bit more abuse than their stiff counterparts, it’s still best to treat them with care and they may need a little bit of steam and water if they’re really out of shape.
The term shapeable applies to hats that have a metal wire sewn inside of their brims. Some hats come with plastic wires sewn inside the brims and these generally hold their shape whereas the metal is a little bit more malleable so you can style the brim in a number of very specific ways.
Ultraviolet Protection Factor
Not to be confused with SPF, the term UPF stands for ultraviolet protection factor. This classification takes into consideration a few factors such as the weave, color, weight, and stretch of a hat and most often, hats with the UPF designation are also coated with a bit of ultraviolet protective agent. There are also specific UPF ratings which are as follows:
a rating anywhere from 15 to 24, the Hat will have an ultraviolet protection percentage of about 93% to 96%
a UPF rating anywhere from 25 to 39 and the hat will have a protection percentage of 96% to about 97 1/2%
a UPF rating from 40 to anywhere above 50 will provide ultraviolet protection percentage of about 97 1/2% to just over 99%
The teardrop or C crown shape either looks like a teardrop if you are considering the entirety of the hat or like a letter C if you’re looking primarily at the back portion of the crown.
center dent crown
The center crease or center dent style typically features one central crease that runs down the middle of the crown typically at a depth of about one to two inches.
The diamond crown is a slightly less popular shape than the more commonly seen teardrop but it was a popular style for a time in the 1940s and it’s a little bit wider than your typical C crown shape.
Also know as the flat top, which is typically seen on everything from top hats to Gambler hats, straw boaters, and porkpie hats. This crown shape either features a totally flat top crown or a slight lip that runs around the perimeter of the crown at a very small depth.
Bowler Hat by Habig
Finally, there’s the open or round crown which simply refers to the natural shape of the crown before it’s shaped into a different style. Also, the crown can be left round for some styles such as the bowler or derby hat.
Common Hat Construction Materials
Cotton Safari hat
Cotton hats are usually quite durable and also sometimes packable or crushable and they’re typically on the softer side as compared to some other construction materials.
Wool felt hat
One of the most common construction materials for traditional men’s hats is wool felt which is crafted by pressing together wool fibers and applying heat and moisture which makes the fibers matte together into a cohesive surface. Like cotton, wool felt is soft and can come in just about any color.
Bates’s Poet Fedora in green antelope fur felt.
Fur felt is created in the same manner as wool felt but typically in finer and often even softer materials. Most often from beaver or rabbit pelts. Fur felt is noticeably softer to the touch than wool felt and as such, you can expect to pay a higher price for the increase in quality and luxury.
Planter style Panama hat
There are great many varieties of straw used to make hats which vary slightly in strength, durability, and color. For example, raffia is a straw used to make many packable and crushable hats whereas straw coming from the toquilla palm is commonly used in the construction of Panama hats. Most any type of straw can theoretically be woven into a hat but higher quality selections are typically handpicked for their evenness in color, texture, and pattern.
Polyester is a less commonly used material for hats or at least for hats of quality but it is out there.
As the name suggests, these hats are made from strips of paper that are woven together similarly to straw and then formed into the desired shape. These hats have been increasing in popularity in recent years due to their low cost and relative durability although they’re not quite as durable as straw.
So now that you’re aware of all of the various terms and materials that go into making traditional men’s hats, you’ll be better equipped to go out and find a style that suits you best. We’d like to know if you wear hats regularly, what styles do you prefer? Share with us in the comments section below!
He really is a heel. He’s as cuddly as a cactus and as charming as an eel. He’s a bad banana with a greasy black peel. He’s a monster. His heart’s an empty hole. His brain is full of spiders. He’s got garlic in his soul… BroadwayWorld.com Featured Content