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The invitation for Chanel’s cruise show was printed on a plain white card — symbolizing, perhaps, the blank page facing artistic director Virginie Viard as she prepared to write the next chapter in the history of the house that had been synonymous with Karl Lagerfeld for 36 years.
Guests arriving at the Grand Palais found a similarly low-key ambiance inside the venue. Its soaring steel-and-glass roof all but dwarfed the set, a retro train station where guests sat on wooden benches under signs bearing the names of cities that resonate in Chanel lore: Venice, Saint-Tropez, Rome or Edinburgh, among them.
An impulse kicked in to make a pun: All aboard the Chanel Express! But the space lacked the joyful effervescence of Lagerfeld’s bombastic sets, which invited guests to preen for selfies and journalists to conjure clichés about rocketships, icebergs, cruise liners or whatever phantasmagorical vision he dreamt up for the season.
“It’s very minimal,” one editor soberly observed. The press kit offered the first hint of change. A booklet, printed on glossy paper, featured images shot by Karim Sadli, marking the first time since 1987 that a photographer other than Lagerfeld had lensed the collection.
In it, hints of a lighter, more streamlined take
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EPHEMERAL, NOT POP-UP: Chanel and Barneys threw an intimate cocktail and dinner party inside the tony department store Wednesday night to celebrate their new partnership. It was also a chance for the two companies to invite influencers and top shoppers from New York City to check out the new collection, one that Barneys hopes will lead to a lasting partnership with Chanel, existing beyond the realm of just a pop-up shop. (That’s why this collection lives in an “ephemeral boutique.”)
Outside the store, the windows on Madison Avenue were filled with beach scenes: wicker baskets, chiffon printed dresses and one-piece swimsuits designed by the French maison especially for Barneys.
Pairs of jeans, canary yellow blazers and beach ball-inspired purses were all on display on the sixth floor. There, guests including Leandra Medine, Vanessa Traina and Atlanta de Cadenet milled about among the mannequins, posing for photographs next to enlarged “CHA” and “NEL” letters. Among this crowd, there were tweed jackets, 3.55 bags and elegant tailoring synonymous with Chanel as far as the eye could see. Medine toted a clear purse with pearl handles, while de Cadenet opted for a floaty white dress. Following cocktail hour, attendees trooped upstairs to Freds to
SEOUL — Chanel’s first flagship in South Korea was a bustling beehive on Thursday, as the new space in Apgujeong officially opened its doors for the first time to welcome Pharrell Williams and the debut of his much-awaited capsule with the luxury house.
The musician, known for pushing the borders of fashion’s gender norms, joined Jennie Kim from Blackpink and rapper Jay Park, in reveling to see the collection on the shop floor for the first time, which South Korea gets access to a full week before the rest of the globe.
“They’ve given me so much,” Pharrell told WWD. “They [Chanel] continue to put their arms around me and open their doors. I know that this opportunity has never been afforded to anyone else, and I just want to say how grateful I am.”
While there had been press speculation that this could be the French luxury house’s way of testing the market for men’s wear, the musician laughed the suggestion off easily.
“It’s not, it’s unisex,” he said, while wearing a pair of red sunglasses of his own design.
Chanel’s president of fashion Bruno Pavlovsky was equally emphatic in his directive not to overanalyze this capsule line.
“We have not decided that we want
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PARIS — The Chanel-Pharrell collection is landing soon: Pharrell Williams teased some looks from his eagerly awaited collaboration with the French luxury brand in a 15-second clip posted to his Instagram account on Friday.
The segment shows a group of women and men lounging after dark, dressed in the rainbow outfits from the capsule. Williams is seen holding a glowing orb inside his mouth, to eerie effect, while in another scene, a television screen in a grand apartment shows black-and-white footage of the label’s founder, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, talking about elegance.
Williams has a long-standing relationship with Chanel and the late Karl Lagerfeld, its creative director for 36 years, starting with their sneaker launch at the now-defunct Paris concept store Colette in 2017.
The “Happy” singer, who has won 10 Grammy Awards and heads the multimedia collective I Am Other, was previously one of the ambassadors of the Gabrielle handbag, has walked in its runway shows and appeared in a movie directed by Lagerfeld for which he wrote an original song.
An early proponent of genderfluid dressing, Williams likes to wear Chanel pearls with everything from a tuxedo to a yellow hoodie.
Lagerfeld regularly included a number of men’s looks, often modeled by his muses Baptiste Giabiconi
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Sure, we’re all glued to our phones/tablets/laptops/watches that barely tell time, but even the best of us miss out on some important #content from time to time. That’s why, in case you missed it, we’ve rounded up our most popular stories of the week to help you stay in the loop. No need to thank …
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Tuesday morning, Chanel presented its fall 2019 collection, the last designed by the late Karl Lagerfeld, in Paris.
Designing for Chanel since 1983, Lagerfeld’s final Chanel collection was presented amid a snowy mountain village backdrop. Many of his former muses, including Cara Delevingne, Kaia Gerber and Penélope Cruz, walked the runway, showing off the designer’s last creations.
Before the show, WWD spoke with show-goers on their memories with the late designer.
Read more on Chanel here:
Karl Lagerfeld’s Last Chanel Show in Paris
Naomi Campbell, Janelle Monáe and More at Chanel Share Their Favorite Memories of Karl Lagerfeld
Penélope Cruz on Walking Karl Lagerfeld’s Last Chanel Show
The last ready-to-wear show Lagerfeld worked on before his death was a beautiful celebration of Chanel and the designer’s staggering imagination.
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Chanel doesn’t sell its products online, but that doesn’t prevent it from catching up with the digital revolution.
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Karl Lagerfeld was a master of many things, from design to photography — but his red-carpet looks were especially spectacular. With the Academy Awards coming up on Sunday, WWD looks back at the late designer’s most memorable Chanel looks at the Oscars.
Historically, Lagerfeld’s take on Oscar fashion was about clean silhouettes and a neutral color palette fused with intricate, couture details such as embroidery and beading, as seen on the likes of Diane Kruger, Sarah Jessica Parker and Pharrell Williams.
Julianne Moore wore Chanel couture dresses back-to-back for her best actress win in 2015, and then again to present in 2016. Lagerfeld created a custom look in 2018 for Margot Robbie, for whom he designed a minimalist white gown with off-the-shoulder crystal embroidery, to critical acclaim.
Perhaps the most newsworthy Chanel look at the Oscars, however, came in 2001 when Jennifer Lopez wore a sweeping taupe ballgown with a transparent bodice. Only in Hollywood.
Click through the above gallery to see more of Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel designs on the Oscars’ red carpet.
Julianne Moore picked up the Oscar for best actress in 2015, wearing a Chanel couture gown covered in no fewer than 80,000 sequins.
Margot Robbie wearing custom Chanel at the 2018 Academy
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These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Thursday. Kim Kardashion is suing Missguided This is not the week to mess with a Kardashian: Kim, who’s spent the first part of the week blasting fast fashion retailers on social media, has decided to take legal action against Missguided for …
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REMEMBERING KARL: Chanel is planning a farewell ceremony for Karl Lagerfeld following the designer’s death on Tuesday at the age of 85.
In a death notice in French daily newspaper Le Figaro on Thursday, the fashion house said Lagerfeld would be laid to rest “in a strictly private ceremony,” confirming what a spokeswoman for the Lagerfeld brand told WWD.
“A farewell ceremony will take place at a later date,” Chanel added. A spokeswoman for the brand said no additional details were available at this time. Lagerfeld’s final collection for Chanel will be shown in Paris on March 5, in what promises to be a highly emotional occasion.
The couturier always made clear that he did not want a public funeral after his own death, telling Numéro magazine in an interview last year that he preferred for his ashes to be scattered near those of his mother Elisabeth and those of his cat Choupette, should she pass away before him.
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Karl Lagerfeld has designed no shortage of memorable red carpet looks.
The late Chanel fashion designer was tasked with dressing both his muses, such as Cara Delevingne and Keira Knightley, along with A-list celebrities during awards season, including Emma Stone and Margot Robbie.
Margot Robbie wears Chanel Couture at the 72nd British Academy Film Awards.
No stranger to the Met Gala red carpet, Lagerfeld was responsible for the looks for both Yara Shahidi and Lily-Rose Depp’s first times attending the annual costume event. Shahidi, for example, attended her first Met Gala last year wearing a Chanel Couture tulle dress with an intricate full-length beading.
Yara Shahidi wears Chanel at the 2018 Met Gala.
Chanel spokeswomen, Julianne Moore and Marion Cotillard, also have a long history of being dressed in Lagerfeld’s creations. Most notably, Moore picked up her first Academy Award in 2015 wearing a Chanel Couture gown made with 80,000 sequins.
Julianne Moore wears Chanel Couture at the 87th Annual Academy Awards.
Click through the above gallery for more of Karl Lagerfeld’s best Chanel red carpet looks.
Read more on Karl Lagerfeld here:
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Legendary fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld died at the age of 85 on Tuesday in Paris, leaving behind a larger-than-life legacy. Although the German-born Lagerfeld had his own eponymous line and was the creative director of Italian luxury label Fendi for over five decades, the name he’s most associated with is the French luxury house Chanel, where he served as their high-profile creative director since 1983.
During his time at Chanel, “the Kaiser” as he was nicknamed, helped transform the fashion and luxury industry as we know it, turning out collections that were as witty as they were elegant, a shining example of what it means to breathe new life into a legacy brand. To that end, Lagerfeld could draw as much inspiration from the life and times of Coco Chanel as he might from campy, colorful aspects of pop culture, as evidenced by his fantastical themes from Chanel shows that ranged from a full replica of the Eiffel Tower in the Grand Palais to a fully Chanel-branded grocery store, complete with shopping carts that show-goers stormed after the show.
In memory of Lagerfeld’s immense creative legacy, here’s a look back at his 20 most memorable Chanel shows of all time.
Fall/Winter RTW 2008: Chanel Carousel
For Chanel’s Fall/Winter RTW 2008 show, Lagerfeld constructed a full working carousel in the center of the Chanel runway, where models rode on larger-than-life replicas of the house’s famous quilted accessories after they took their turn on the runway. At the end of the show, Lagerfeld exited the rotating carousel to take his final bow.
Chanel Spring/Summer RTW 2009: 31 Rue Cambon
For Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2009 show, Lagerfeld recreated the iconic Chanel flagship store, 31 Rue Cambon, to-scale in the brand’s usual choice of venue, the Grand Palais. Lagerfeld’s wry sense of humor was on full display with the show’s soundtrack, a mix of Madness’ “Our House.”
Chanel Resort 2009: Synchronized Swimmers in Miami
Lagerfeld turned up the heat when he showed Chanel’s 2009 resort collection poolside at the Raleigh Hotel in South Beach, Miami. While the collection was beautiful, Karl might have upstaged his own designs by asking the U.S. synchronized swimming team to do a fantastic closing performance.
Chanel Spring/Summer RTW 2010: Bucolic Beauty
Lagerfeld once again held court at the stately Grand Palais, this time to transform it into a bucolic barnyard paradise, resplendent with a Chanel-themed barn, hay bales, rockabilly high fashion, and a surprise Lily Allen performance.
Chanel Fall/Winter RTW 2010: Iceberg, But Make It Fashion
What’s cooler than cool? How about an actual iceberg, the ultimate accessory for a Winter Wonderland set that matched the shaggy, fur-embellished designs that Lagerfeld sent down the runway.
Resort 2010: Chanel Takes the Venice Lido
Lagerfeld paid homage to Chanel’s namesake designer, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel when he staged his 2010 Resort show on a boardwalk runway along the romantic Venice Lido, an enviable destination fashion show.
Chanel Pre-Fall 2013: Linlithgow Palace
Scotland served as both the locale and the muse for Lagerfeld’s Pre-Fall collection, which he showed at the darkly beautiful Linlithgow Palace. The palace, which was the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots, housed models who stomped down a blazing brazier-lit runway in tweeds and tartans, that honored the late monarch as much as they cheekily referenced Coco Chanel’s time spent in Scotland, with her lover, the Duke of Westminster.
CHanel Fall 2013 Couture: Post-Apocalypse Now
Science fiction took center stage at Lagerfeld’s post-apocalyptic theater for the 2013 Chanel couture show. Models walked out from a deconstructed center stage to walk between aisles of viewers who sat in theater seats in the Grand Palais.
Chanel Pre-Fall 2014: Everything’s Bigger in Texas
Full-fledged Americana might not seem like a fit for a French fashion house, but under Lagerfeld’s direction, Chanel’s annual Métiers d’Art show was one wild ride. Beginning with a drive-in movie before the show and ending with a mechanical bull at the after-party hosted at the Chanel saloon, Lagerfeld’s take on Texas was fit for a spaghetti Western, down to an unfortunate Native American headdress that drew wide criticism.
Chanel Fall/Winter RTW 2014: Grocery Shopping with Karl Lagerfeld
Going to the supermarket was no chore at the Fall/Winter 2014 Chanel show, where Karl Lagerfeld painstakingly recreated a fully-stocked grocery store with all Chanel-branded wares, ranging from household cleaning items to pasta. Following the presentation, during which models walked down “aisles” with Chanel shopping carts, attendees stormed the set to loot the grocery store’s Chanel offerings.
Spring/Summer RTW 2015: Vive la Chanel!
Lagerfeld took inspiration from protest culture with his showing for the Spring/Summer 2015 show. Models took to the Parisian “streets” of the Grand Palais for a final walk that manifested in a pseudo-protest (complete with signs that read: “He for She” and “Ladies First” as well as Jamie Bouchert leading chants with a megaphone) that brought to mind women’s liberation.
Fall 2015 Couture: Casino Chanel
Casino Royale? So last season. Welcome to Casino Chanel, where Julianne Moore, Kristen Stewart, and mother-daughter duo Lily-Rose Depp and Vanessa Paradis all took to the roulette tables as models slinked around them. Lagerfeld’s trademark humor was at play, with the Chanel bride resembling a very chic Elvis Presley impersonator.
Spring/Summer RTW 2016: Fly Chanel Airlines
Attendees were invited to fly high — well, high fashion, that is — with Chanel airlines at the brand’s Spring/Summer 2016 show, where the Grand Palais became an airline terminal for the world’s most stylish jet setters (traveling, of course, with some seriously enviable Chanel luggage).
Fall/Winter RTW 2017: Chanel Conquers the Last Frontier
Leave it to the Kaiser to cap off a space-themed collection with the launch of custom Chanel rocket in the Grand Palais — all set to the dulcet tones of Elton John’s “Rocket Man,” of course.
Resort 2017: Chanel in Havana, Cuba
While Chanel was critiqued for the decision to show luxury fashion (including some questionable references, like military fatigues and Che Guevara-esque berets) in the political climate, the show coincided with doors being opened to the U.S. under the Obama administration after nearly five decades.
Chanel Fall 2017 Couture: Eiffel Tower
Lagerfeld recreated the Eiffel Tower to scale for his Fall 2017 couture show for Chanel, in what might be the most on-the-nose homage to the City of Love.
Chanel Fall/Winter RTW 2018: Into the Woods
Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2018 show was a return to nature — or rather, the idea of nature, as Lagerfeld recreated a lush autumnal forest within the confines of the Grand Palais for models to show off his fall collection.
Chanel Spring/Summer RTW 2019: His Beach Is Better
Life’s a beach — at least, according to Karl Lagerfeld, who brought the beach to Paris Fashion Week by recreating a tropical escape, complete with a sandy runway, real ocean waves and an on-duty lifeguard. Models even walked barefoot and carried their Chanel shoes, natch.
Chanel Spring 2019 Couture: Villa Chanel
For Chanel’s most recent show, they created a villa that would look completely at home in the Italian countryside, a lovely complement to the show’s Rococo influences. Models strutted down the park-inspired runways with David Bowie-esque pompadours, but it was Lagerfeld’s absence at the show due to tiredness that people latched onto most about this couture collection.
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The passing of Karl Lagerfeld presents Chanel with its biggest creative challenge since the death of its iconic founder almost half a century ago.
Since 1983, Lagerfeld reigned over Chanel with indisputable authority, helping turn a storied haute-couture fashion house into a global megabrand with $ 9.6 billion in annual sales. His death, at the age of 85, has left long-time creative deputy Virginie Viard in charge of the collections.
Crucial to the future of the closely held brand is whether Viard can emerge from Lagerfeld’s shadow and impose a convincing vision, or whether Chanel will seek an established outsider such as Phoebe Philo, who left LVMH’s Celine last year after a decade, or Alber Elbaz, formerly of Lanvin.
“They will look for a high-profile chief creative officer, and in the meantime they have got incredibly capable people in their team,” said Mario Ortelli, who runs a London-based advisory firm on luxury strategy. “Any designer in the world would be more than delighted to work with Chanel.”
Lagerfeld oversaw as many as eight Chanel collections a year: spring, fall, skiwear, haute couture, and more. One of fashion’s most prolific couturiers, he also produced outfits for Italy’s Fendi SpA and his own label. Recognizable for his high-collared shirts, white ponytail, dark sunglasses and black fingerless gloves, Lagerfeld had a client list that featured stars of the stage and screen, including actress Cate Blanchett and singer Pharrell Williams.
“We have lost a creative genius who helped to make Paris the fashion capital of the world,” Bernard Arnault, the chairman and chief executive officer of luxury giant LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said in a statement.
When Chanel last month said the designer was too tired to appear at his spring-summer haute couture show in Paris, his absence made more news than the hand-stitched floral gowns, sequined tweed suits, and feather capes on the catwalk. Conversation quickly turned to what Chanel planned to do next.
The fashion house said that Viard, his “closest collaborator for more than 30 years,” has been entrusted with the creative work on the collections, “so that the legacy of Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld can live on.”
Fashion house Fendi said it’s too soon to discuss Lagerfeld’s succession. “We intend to take the time to honor his life and pay him the tribute he deserves,” the Italian firm said in a statement. Fendi will present the latest collection designed by Lagerfeld on Thursday, as scheduled.
‘Sign of Defeat’
The sharp-tongued Lagerfeld — known for lines such as “wearing sweatpants is a sign of defeat” — was brought in to revamp the brand in 1983. Founder Coco Chanel had died 12 years earlier, and in the interim the company had muddled through, propped up by apparel licenses and sales of its No. 5 perfume.
Seeking to rejuvenate Chanel, its owners, the brothers Alain and G?rard Wertheimer, turned to Lagerfeld, a Hamburg native who’d won the prestigious Woolmark Prize for design at age 21 and by 1965 had become creative director of both Parisian fashion house Chlo? and Roman furmaker Fendi.
At Chanel, Lagerfeld quickly sexed up the brand’s iconic tweed skirt suits with more feminine tailoring and boosted use of pearls, chains, and the double “C” logo. While Chanel fiercely guards its image by crafting $ 15,000 gowns and $ 5,000 quilted-leather handbags, it’s managed to maintain a broader appeal with lipstick that can come in below $ 30 and perfumes for less than $ 100 a bottle.
Lagerfeld was “a marketing genius,” Elodie Nowinski, a professor of fashion studies at EM Lyon Business School, said before his death. “He knows how to take this elite vocabulary from haute couture and make it desirable to the masses.”
The combination of mass-market appeal and high-end exclusivity helped Chanel grow into a colossus with beauty counters and boutiques worldwide, 20,000 employees, and operating profit of $ 2.7 billion in 2017.
BNP Paribas estimated the brand’s value at more than $ 50 billion, making the Wertheimers among France’s wealthiest citizens. With other holdings such as Bordeaux vineyards, a thoroughbred horse stable, and paintings by 20th century masters, each brother has a net worth of almost $ 21 billion, according to the Bloomberg Billionaires Index.
Lagerfeld himself amassed a personal fortune of about 400 million euros ($ 453 million), according to the latest annual rich-list compiled by Germany’s Manager Magazin.
While the Wertheimers, both around 70, haven’t revealed any succession plan, they’re clearly thinking of the future. They’ve named independent board members and regrouped Chanel and dozens of subsidiaries — including suppliers of embroidery, feathers, leather gloves, and watch components acquired over the years — in a single holding company registered in London.
Long an e-commerce holdout, the company revamped its website last summer, adding sunglasses to offerings of makeup and perfume, and finally started publishing prices for its fashions and accessories online. A year ago, Chanel took a stake in the e-commerce platform Farfetch, which is helping develop digital tools for the brand’s stores.
Chanel has denied it’s planning for an initial public offering or sale, but speculation has grown as the Wertheimers have reshaped the company’s structure.
Luxury conglomerates like LVMH and Gucci-owner Kering SA are seeking to consolidate the industry while American challengers like Coach-owner Tapestry and Michael Kors Plc, private equity funds, and Chinese groups Fosun and Shandong Ruyi are also looking for increased exposure to the luxury market. But targets are few: family shareholders have continued to keep the likes of Chanel, Prada, Ferragamo, and Chopard off the market, while high valuations have deterred would-be suitors of Burberry Plc.
Chanel is “definitely a very desirable asset that is so far not open for sale,” Morningstar analyst Jelena Sokolova wrote in response to a Bloomberg query. Lagerfeld’s passing is unlikely to change the status quo for now, she said.
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SHOW OFF: The fallout continues from three weekends of antigovernment protests in Paris, with Chanel canceling its upcoming exhibition on the color red less than one week before it was set to open.
On Wednesday evening, the company issued a statement saying: “Due to recent events that took place in Paris, Chanel has made the decision to cancel the exhibition “Le Rouge Chanel,” which was to take place starting Dec. 11 in the Hôtel Marcel Dassault, Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées. Chanel deemed it preferable, as a precaution, not to have the public in a location in a neighborhood of the capital that was the scene of certain incidents during the demonstrations.”
Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées falls at the base of the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, where demonstrators in reflective safety vests, known as “gilets jaunes,” on Saturday vandalized stores, cars and the Arc de Triomphe monument.
Chanel had made a large investment on the Champs-Élysées in the run-up to the end-of-year holiday season, with its sponsorship of the red Christmas lights and banners now decorating the shopping street. The color was chosen to match the advertising campaign for the launch of a limited-edition red bottle for the Chanel No.5 fragrance.
The exhibit had been scheduled to run through
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Pharrell stole the runway at Chanel Metier d’Arts show at the Metropolitan Museum on Tuesday night. Dressed in a gold glittery tunic decorated with sequin embellishments, the singer slash producer slash recent restauranteur walked the runway (to notably loud cheers) that wrapped around the iconic Temple of Dendur in front of a celeb-studded front row…
Fashion News, Photos, and Video | New York Post
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No more croco for Coco.
On the eve of its pre-fall Metiers d’Art show here at the Met on Tuesday, Chanel said it will “no longer use exotic skins in our future creations.”
Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of fashion, told WWD of the move in an exclusive interview.
The exotic skins in question include crocodile, lizard, snake and stingray.
Pavlovsky noted the list also includes fur, of which Chanel uses very little.
“It is our experience that it is becoming increasingly difficult to source exotic skins,” Chanel said in a statement, noting it would create “a new generation of high-end products” by innovating with fabric and leather.
Pavlovsky said the latter category will focus on materials generated by the “agri-food” industries.
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HYÈRES HYÈRES: The luxury brands have been steadily moving in on the Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography, and for the next edition in April 2019 expect a bigger presence from Chanel Métiers d’Art.
The festival in April featured an exhibition of Maison Lemarié creations produced in collaboration with the house’s artistic director, Christelle Kocher, who also presided over the accessories jury. But for next time, “We’re working on a project that will involve all 12 of the Chanel Métiers d’Art houses,” said festival founder Jean-Pierre Blanc, who recently opened the call for entries for 2019. Candidates have until Dec. 21 to apply. Blanc, who at the event’s last edition bemoaned the dearth of anglophone candidates, said Fabio Piras, MA fashion program course director at London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, will attend the next festival.
In terms of signatures versus France’s other high-profile fashion prizes like the LVMH Prize and ANDAM, Hyères has always been about spotlighting young talents straight out of school, he said. Past Hyères festival winners include Paco Rabanne’s Julien Dossena, Viktor & Rolf’s Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren and Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello. Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, who since scooping the main fashion prize
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