Gieves & Hawkes Removes Michael Jackson Jackets From Display

BAD MOVE: Child abuse allegations against the late pop star Michael Jackson have been hitting fashion hard, with Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes among the brands to get caught up in the controversy.
The British tailor has removed from its display a replica of the military jacket that Michael Jackson wore on the “Bad” tour in 1988. Bad was the first solo concert tour by Jackson, spanning 16 months from 1987.
Gieves, which famously sits at No. 1 Savile Row and is one of the oldest tailoring companies in the world, said: “In light of the disturbing allegations made in the documentary, the replica garment was removed from the premises several weeks ago.” Child sex abuse allegations against the late pop star resurfaced in the HBO “Leaving Neverland” documentary.
Earlier this week, Louis Vuitton announced it would not produce any item “that directly features Michael Jackson elements.” The brand’s fall 2019 men’s wear collection drew inspiration from the “Thriller” singer’s pop-culture legacy.
Gieves & Hawkes, one of the Fung family’s brands owned through Trinity group, made the original jacket, with its intricate golden military frogging and embroidery, for the tour that included 123 concerts across 15 countries.
There were dazzling fashion moments with costumes

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Canada Goose Jackets – Is It Worth It?

In recent years, Canada Goose was transitioned from a smaller brand focusing on functional wear to a very stylish brand that became extremely popular. As a consequence, their flagship jacket, which we are about to review, costs around $ 1000 and so we want to know, is it really worth that money? How does it compare to other well-known jackets such as Moncler?

Canada Goose History

Just like many others, it started out as a very functional brand for outdoor gear. It was founded by the Polish immigrant Sam Tick in 1957. Interestingly, it was not named Canada Goose but Metro Sportswear. They started producing down jackets in the 1970s but they were primarily focused on jackets for rangers and the police.

By 1985, they decided to produce jackets under their own brand which at the time was called Snow Goose, not Canada goose. At the time, they also manufactured private label jackets for companies like LL Bean or Eddie Bauer. They were growing slowly and in the early 90s, they expanded to Europe.

Canada Goose Logo

Unfortunately, someone else was already using the term Snow Goose so they switched their branding to Canada goose. Even though they were forced to change the name, it proved beneficial because of the positive association with really cold Canadian climate. In 2001, Dani Reiss took over as a CEO from his father at Canada Goose. At the time, a lot of companies were still shifting production overseas but he said: “No, we’re gonna produce in Canada”.

At the same time, he began pushing the products internationally and especially in Europe, people didn’t question the high price tag because they associated it was a luxury high-end product. Ironically, the brand Canada Goose flew pretty much under the radar up until about 2010. The brand undertook an aggressive product placement strategy using celebrities such as Daniel Craig. Of course, that was also reflected in their revenue. The company went from 18 million a year to a multiple of that, selling a 70% share for a quarter billion dollars in 2013.

Kate Upton Wearing Canada Goose

By then, Canada Goose had become so popular that model Kate Upton wore a jacket on a Sports Illustrated cover swimsuit edition. Today, Canada Goose continues to focus on quality and domestic Canadian production. The Canada Goose product lineup has steadily increased and now includes lighter weight jackets as well as pants and other outerwear things. Of course, with the popularity of the Canada Goose brand, also a lot of counterfeit jackets pop in the market just like with Moncler. They also use an authentication system making sure that if you pay top dollar, you get the real thing and not a knockoff. Just like Moncler, Canada Goose is now a status symbol and so we really want to look into it whether the jacket is actually functional and worth your money.

Canada Goose Emory Parka

What I’m Wearing…

So I’m wearing the Canada Goose Emory slim fit parka jacket with a coyote trim. In terms of colors, they are less flashy than Moncler and I chose an olive green.

Genuine Coyote Fur Trim

The first thing that distinguishes the jacket visually from the Moncler one is the genuine coyote fur trim. Canada Goose claims that it has a functional purpose in the sense that it creates more turbulent air around your face thus preventing frostbite more than a jacket without the trim. The company claims that the coyote fur is ethically sourced and trapped in Canada. Now, trapping is always difficult and painful for the animals so I know a few people who would question that claim.

Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a Moncler jacket
Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a Moncler jacket

Matte Material

The next thing that stands out is the material. It is matte and it’s a lot thicker than the Moncler jacket. Also and I find it quite unpleasant, it makes a lot of noise when you walk! The material is made out of 85% polyester and 15% cotton, it’s water-resistant, durable, and hard-wearing, as well as wind resistant. It’s not quite gore-tex membrane material but it’s definitely thick and much stiffer than what you get from Moncler. That being said, nylon is typically a higher-end artificial fiber and polyester. In my opinion, the stiffness of the fabric is directly felt to the entire jacket and other people would have compared the jacket to wearing that x-ray vest at the dentist’s office.

Canada Goose Emory up close

Ribbed Cuffs

The ribbed cuffs are quite useful because they prevent cold air from coming in.

Pockets & Zippers

The jacket features an abundance of pockets, has lots of Zamak metal snap buttons that are plastic covered. Of course, all branded. The zipper is an injection molded plastic from YKK, ironically, it’s the same one used at the Moncler Jackets. For some reason though, I find it a lot harder to close. So for a jacket that retails for $ 1,000, I would’ve expected a higher-end zipper made out of machined metal and not just an average YKK product that I can get on Amazon for about 6 bucks.

Down Feathers up close
Down Feathers up close

Duck Down Feathers

Even though the brand is called Canada Goose, the actual filling of this jacket consists of duck down feathers which are inferior to goose down. So what’s the difference between goose down and duck down? Well, goose down comes in larger clusters, usually traps the air better which means you get a higher fill power and more insulating with a goose than duck. Because this jacket uses duck down, it’s not surprising that there’s a fill power of 625.

Again, low-end fill power would be 300, high-end fill power would be 900. So this jacket sits right somewhere in the middle. It consists of 80% down and 20% feathers which is not as good as the Moncler jacket which is 90% goose down and 10% feathers but both are not as good as other jackets in the market that have 93% goose down.

Thermal Experience Index

Thermal Experience Index

Unlike Moncler, Canada goose has warmth grading method which is called TEI or thermal experience index. That will help you to find a jacket that is best suited for your needs and your environment and the level of coolness you experience.

Is The Canada Goose Emory Jacket Worth It?

PROS

  • The construction of the Canada Goose jacket seems more rugged and sturdy. Frankly, I don’t wear these jackets enough to really figure out the difference because when I go skiing, I layer up because that allows me to get exactly the right heat level for the temperature outside. This arctic tech fabric is definitely more sturdy than the nylon one from Moncler and I think over time, it will wear better.
  • Unlike Moncler, Canada Goose comes with a lifetime warranty, however, that sounds better than it actually is because it’s just a warranty against manufacturing defects.
  • It’s definitely a quality parka, it has a real fur trim, it has a fill power of 625 and it keeps you warm and is well thought through.

CONS

  • The sound it creates and the noise it makes when I walk, I find it simply unpleasant.
  • It’s heavier than the Moncler jacket which is not so great in my opinion but more importantly it’s simply too stiff for my tastes.
  • Also keep in mind that you can find warmer jackets with a higher fill power for about half the price of this Canada Goose.
Donegal tweed overcoat. fedora hat, Fort Belvedere yellow gloves and blue scarf
Donegal tweed overcoat, fedora hat, Fort Belvedere yellow gloves and blue scarf
  • Overall it’s pretty expensive even though it’s twenty dollars less expensive than the Moncler jacket but at the end of the day, I don’t find any of those jackets really stylish because this one is very shiny and puffy, this one is less puffy but it’s so stiff and just makes me feel like a very unstylish person. So if you really care for style go with a heavy overcoat that will keep you just as warm in the city at the same time you will look a lot better.

CONCLUSION

In terms of value, one could argue that Canada Goose is better because it has more details it’s more functional and will likely wear longer than the Moncler jacket. That being said, the increased weight, the stiffness of the fabric in combination with a pain in the ass zipper, I don’t think $ 995 is a good value for this parka.

What’s your take on Canada Goose Jackets? Drop a comment below!


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Is It Worth It: Moncler Jackets

Moncler has been making puffy jackets since the 1950s and they’ve been around for a while and they’ve become quite iconic. The classic versions of the puffy down jackets retail anywhere from $ 1100 to $ 1500 which is quite an investment so reason enough to determine whether it’s worth it or not.

Moncler History

Moncler is pronounced that way because it’s derived from the name of a town, Monestier-de-Clermont. If you want to learn how to properly pronounce other luxury brand names, please check out this video here.

Monestier-de-Clermont

Originally, Moncler was established as a maker of quilted sleeping bags in 1952. Even though they’re most well known for their puffy down jackets, they didn’t invent them, that honor actually goes to Eddie Bauer who came up with the idea in 1936.  Ever since its inception, Moncler produced down products but they were more utilitarian and meant for workers who were out on the mountain. Eventually, a French Mountaineer by the name of Lionel Terray approached Moncler and asked if they could make jackets for his expeditions. They accepted the challenge and from that point forward, they were the providers of exhibition gear for many mountaineering groups.

For example in 1954, Moncler outfitted the first crew that successfully climbed the K2. By 1968, Moncler had become so popular and well known that they were named the official supplier of the French National Ski Team.  With the spotlight on the company, Moncler decided to change their logo from the Mount Eguit to the cockerel which is still the Moncler logo today. The iconic Moncler puffy down jacket, as we know it today, came about to be in the 1980s. Young Italian men dubbed the paninari started wearing work wear such as the brightly colored puffy jackets from Moncler as well as timberland boots as part of their subculture.

Moncler responded to the trend by adding a shiny finish to their jackets as well as fur trimmings. In 2003, Moncler was purchased by the Italian entrepreneur Remo Ruffini and he moved their headquarters to Milan that remains today. Under new direction, Moncler decided to focus more on the fashion side of things rather than the expedition based quality segment. Because of that, they came up with the Gamme Rouge collection.

Vintage Moncler

At around at the same time, Giambattista Valli started designing for Moncler. Today, Moncler is truly a fashion brand that prices their products in the luxury range. Because of that, Moncler jackets are no longer target to sporty outdoorsman or expeditioners. Instead, they show up at Fashion Week and that’s the realm now.

Interestingly, they claim that they still focus on expedition gear, for some reason though, it’s not for sale. Nevertheless, Moncler puffy down jackets have become a true status symbol from many out there and as a consequence, they’re faked a lot. So obviously, Moncler has some history to it even though they’re now more focused on the fashion side of things.

Moncler Quality Hallmarks

So let’s look at the jacket, we bought two of their more iconic styles which are short and hip length puffy with a shiny satin-like finish. One is red, the other one is blue which also happens to be their brand color. With the finish and the colors, Moncler is intentionally bold in an area where usually navy and black solid dominate the landscape. Moncler jackets are known for their down filling which is very puffy and very insulating and warm. On their website, they claim to have a superior expertise in the down realm.

DIST certified tag on the inside of the down jacket

DIST Certified

All the down fitters using their jackets are DIST certified, that’s a protocol that claims to trace traceability quality and origin of the down. Interestingly, the trade market DIST is actually owned by Moncler so it’s not an independent agency but it’s their own quality control seal, therefore, the quality claims of the down is actually certified by a subsidiary of Moncler and not by an outside third party.

Moncler’s Down Cluster claim

710 Fill Power

They claim to use superior downs yet they use surprisingly few numbers to back those claims up. They claim that their down cluster content is at least 90% with 10% being other feathers. Now, the higher the pure down content, the more insulating the jacket and the higher the quality the jacket will be. To measure the quality of different down jacket compositions, there’s something called the fill power.

Fill power means as much as the volume occupied by the down feathers. An object with a higher fill power takes up more space meaning more air is trapped and therefore, the jacket is more insulating. Essentially, it means that you get more warmth while maintaining the same weight. The fill power of a Moncler down jacket is 710 which means it takes up 710 cubic inches for 30 grams of down which is about 1 ounce. Regular feathers have a fill power of only 300 versus the best quality down have a fill power of 900. Like I said, using waterfowl down would even enable you to get higher fill power numbers but it is not worth it commercially. So at the end of the day, 710 is a good fill number especially if you consider that the down is supposedly plucked only from dead animals.

Down feathers up close

Down Explained

Those are bird feathers that are very small and fine and flexible and because of that, when put together, they create air chambers which insulate both ways. On the one hand, they insulate from the cold air from the outside; on the other hand, they preserve the body heat which is very favorable for animals. Normally, goose downs are the most widely known quality down feathers.

There are others such as waterfowl but they’re usually not commercially used because even better, they’re more expensive. Also, the highest quality down feathers through geese have to be plucked from live animals. Later pluckings are better because the down feathers are even finer than the earlier ones and therefore, they insulate even more. However, plucking the down feathers from live geese means they suffer from extreme pain and stress which is just animal cruelty.

If you follow our channels, you know that we always look for the utmost and quality, however, in this case, we would argue that you should protect the animals and go with down feathers that are plucked from dead geese because they’re still very warm and very functional and you are just not treating animals in a cruel way.

Moncler's iconic red down jacket
Moncler’s iconic red down jacket

Nylon Shell

One of the iconic things of Moncler, it’s a very dense nylon that is extremely lightweight and only weighs in at 33 grams per square meter. It’s also woven in a very fine way so you don’t end up with feathers or down poking through the shell. This high density lacquered nylon that is shiny is something that is pretty unique to Moncler and not many other brands use it.

So if you would like it, it’s a strong reason to invest in the Moncler jacket. If you look at the finishings of the jacket such as the snap buttons, the zippers, and all the metal parts, I’m not too impressed. They seem to be made out of Zamak which is an alloy out of zinc, aluminum, magnesium, and copper. While really popular in the industry, it’s really inexpensive and solid brass is, in my opinion, a lot better. If you look at the zipper, it’s injection molded plastic and the zipper pulley is Zamak again but overall, a zipper out of the highest quality materials would be machined out of metal with metal teeth, would be a lot smoother, and would be higher in quality.

Moncler jacket zippers
Moncler jacket zippers

Overall, I think the trimmings don’t feel cheap but they’re definitely not the highest quality, they’re more average. I have to say though, the construction of the jacket is really neat, the seams are all straight, there are no loose threads, no down poking through, and it appears to be a quality product right out of box. It also comes with elastic inserts, cuffs that can be tightened, as well as adjusters at the bottom so you can ensure no cold wind comes in.

SRS wearing the blue Moncler jacket
SRS wearing the blue Moncler jacket

Boxy & Simple Fit

It makes you look like a Michelin Man. The sizing is quite strange, they use a numbering system and the jacket I’m wearing here is size 5 even though that corresponds an extra-extra-large, I would say it’s more like a large to extra large in other brands. So if you want a Moncler jacket, size up! Even though the size is larger in their lineup, the sleeves are quite short which is something I don’t like because that’s where you end up with a cold air.

The Moncler barcode

Barcode On The Inside Jacket

Because Moncler jackets are so expensive, they’re faked all over the place and in order to verify that you have a genuine product, Moncler jackets have a barcode on the inside jacket. You can simply scan it with a scanner app which gets you to a website and once you sign up, it’ll tell you what name the jacket should be and what style and if it’s a different style, you know it was copied and it’s a fake or if the number is wrong, it will just tell you to get in touch with support and you know what’s wrong or a fake, as well. 

Lightweight

In terms of weight, it doesn’t tell you exactly how heavy it is but our jackets are really lightweight, just take a look. So if they’re lightweight, do they keep you warm? Yes, absolutely. As we learned before, with a fill power where air is trapped, it definitely keeps you warm. 

SRS wearing a red Moncler jacket
SRS wearing a red Moncler jacket

Maintenance & Care

I haven’t washed mine yet but the instructions seem pretty clear, it’s made to be washed but I could see how eventually, the very thin nylon shell will suffer and get destroyed simply because it’s nylon, it’s not kevlar or something like that and it’s just so thin.

Is a Moncler Puffy Down Jacket Worth It?

Well, I think undeniably for a puffy down jacket, they have very special features such as a shiny finish, they have a good fill power, use quality down, and you don’t end up with a cheap product. The finishes are nice, the trimmings are just average but personally, my big issue is the value. You’re paying a lot of money for something that you can get for less from other companies, at least in terms of functionality. If you buy a Moncler jacket, you definitely pay more for the brand.

Alternative Options

For example, North Face has a jacket with a 700 fill power and a nylon shell that is slightly heavier, 54 grams a square meter versus 33 grams of Moncler but it only retails for 249. On the other hand, Patagonia’s Fitz Rroy jacket has an 800 fill power and a lifetime guarantee and cost about $ 450.  So is it worth it if you buy primarily for the performance? I would say no, why?

You can find many other brands with either the same or a higher fill power for a lower cost and their down is certified by third parties, not by themselves so you can trust a little more into what you’re getting.

On the other hand, if you buy primarily for the status, the style, the loud colors, and the shiny finish, and you like to be fashion-forward and you don’t mind a price tag, then yes, by all means, invest in the Moncler jacket. Like I said, other brands rarely do that satin finish if that’s what you like, go for it.

My Personal Take On Moncler Jackets

It’s not worth it because I simply don’t see the value. I’m also not a big fan of the shiny finish and at the end of the day, it still makes me look like a Michelin Man which is not very flattering at all. If you want to be stylish, instead invest in an overcoat for about the same price, you can almost go custom, you can get something that’s really warm and looks a lot better than a Moncler jacket does.

What’s your take on Moncler Jackets? Feel free to drop a comment below!


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MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

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STUDIOUS & White Mountaineering Team up on a Duo of Jackets

Fresh off a collab with adidas, White Mountaineering recently teamed up with Japanese retailer STUDIOUS on a duo of understated jackets. Comprised of an MA-1 Bomber and Down Jacket, the release continues the clean aesthetic of WM to fit the refined styling of the expansive select shop.

Done in classic black and khaki, the MA-1 channels elements of varsity jackets with a loose construction and snap button closure. Branding plays a major part in the design of the piece, as White Mountaineering is clearly spelled out on the back on the back of the jacket. Available in black, red and navy, the hooded Down Jacket is constructed of a high-density nylon that functions with the paneled design and down filling to keep you warm in the colder months ahead.

Check out the collaborative MA-1 Jacket and Down Jacket above and look for them to be available at STUDIOUS locations December 7.

For more contemporary fashion, The Trilogy Tapes returned with a new range of graphic-driven releases.

STUDIOUS Hong Kong
Fashion Walk Shop BG/F
13-15 Cleveland Street
Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
Hong Kong

STUDIOUS Harajuku
1F, 4-26-32, Jingumae
Shibuya, Tokyo
Japan

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