Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Mistergentleman
Main message: Always one of the bright spots during Tokyo Fashion Week, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s men’s brand mixed easy tailoring with streetwear, outdoor and women’s wear influences for fall. Models walked the grass-like carpeted runway in retro, relaxed snakeskin print suits paired with satin double-breasted shirts and neckerchiefs, or velvet pants with roomy overcoats. The more casual looks included dad jeans, hooded sweatshirts and duck canvas jackets, all in neutral shades of gray, brown, khaki and black, interspersed with pops of purple, green and orange.
Osumi and Yoshii played with proportions, shrinking trenches and puffer jackets into crop tops and styling them over wool coats and loose sweaters. Moto, letterman and toggle jackets were chopped up into bib-like pieces and layered over outerwear, while a series of coats and jackets were cut from two contrasting fabrics: olive corduroy and gray wool flannel, or plush fleece with the same snake print from earlier pieces. Subtle feminine touches came in the form of silk scarves worn as belts over coats, and a handful of equestrian print jackets and shifts. The brand also debuted its latest collaboration products, including quilted bags made with Outdoor Products and a black satin bomber designed

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BEST DISCOUNT UPDATE:

Goodyear Welted Shoes for $140, On Sale Folding Ray-Bans, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

And here’s one: You know that confident feeling you get when wearing your favorite suit? Imagine feeling that way about your finances. Personal Capital tracks your net worth and spending for free, so you know where your savings stand and how your investments are performing. Get started here.

Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. 

 

Spier & Mackay: Extra 20% off Sale Items w/ SALE20

Spier & Mackay

The best values in menswear get even better. But it really does feel like an end of season clearance (probably because it is). Lots of cool to cold weather fabrics. Sizes are really scattered. So get ready to hunt and peck a little bit.

 

Massdrop: Folding Ray-Ban Clubmasters – $ 89.99 ($ 225)

Rayban Clubmasters

So maybe ketchup and mustard Persols weren’t your thing. Fair enough. So perhaps something more classic? Folding Clubmasters this time around, still from Massdrop. Prescription ready too, in case you want to swap in some Rx lenses in the frames. Final sale of course, being that it’s Massdrop. Estimated ship date is April 16. UPDATE: Dang it! These are no longer available. I’m thinking it was because enough people got on board? Hope you got a pair if you were interested. 

 

Timex: 20% off Select Watches w/ VIP20

Timex

Getting a Timex direct through Timex.com doesn’t always net you the best price. In fact, if it’s a pretty common model? Amazon will almost always have them beat on price. But this VIP sale has got some not-so-common watches up for the 20% discount, including some kinda-rare Waterbury as well as Todd Snyder models. Code expires Monday 3/25.

 

Huckberry: Restocks of USA Made Flint & Tinder 365 Pants – $ 98

Flint & Tinder Pants

Cheap? Nope. But made in the USA from 97% cotton and 3% lycra, they look good, feel great, and now come in both a slim AND a straight fit. (Straight fit! Rejoice squat rack fans!) Also, no hemming (for most of us) required anymore. They now come in inseams of 30, 32, and 34. Full review coming soon. Seven, count ’em SEVEN different colors to pick from.

 

Brooks Brothers: The Wardrobe Event starts Friday 3/22

Brooks Brothers

Doesn’t start until tomorrow, but still worth a mention. While the construction often takes place in the fuzzy, not very specific land of “imported,” they’re built well, and the Italian fabrics they make them out of are top notch. A splurge for most of us, but they wear well and hold up great.

 

BONUS  BR Rapid Movement Denim = 30% off 

Now $ 82 instead of the usual $ 118. Still an investment, and they were going for less during the recent exclusion-free F&F sale, but they get excluded all the time from other promos and codes. So, still worth a mention.

 

Also worth a mention:


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Ssense Launches Marine Serre Men’s Line

Ssense has snagged the exclusive for the launch of the Marine Serre’s first men’s designs.
The 22-piece collection includes fleece jackets, dégradé tracksuits, bike shorts, T-shirts and accessories that are rich in Nineties nostalgia.
The collection retails from $ 95 for a whistle-festooned lariat to $ 2,270 for a floral-print blanket coat.
Ssense is a luxury retailer based in Montreal that has a strong following with men and women under the age of 34.
Serre, a Parisian-based designer, has been a winner of the LVMH Prize, and made her mark with crescent-moon print bodysuits and dresses made from upcycled silk scarves for women. Her clothes blend futuristic, athletic and couture references.

She had interned at Maison Margiela and quit her job in the studio of Balenciaga in September 2017 to focus on her own label. This is her first men’s wear capsule.

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FASHION TIPS:

Business Casual Men’s Attire & Dress Code Explained

Business casual is a dress code men are confronted with everywhere, but what does it really mean? In this Business Casual Guide for men, we answer this question in detail, share DO’s and DON’Ts and provide specific advice on what you can wear so you are dressed to the T.

Business Casual Video

Please watch the video & read the guide for the best explanation of Business Casual. If you enjoy this guide, please subscribe for free on youtube and sign up to our complimentary email newsletter here.

History of Business Casual

Until recently, the Business Casual attire dress code did not exist. There was simply daywear and evening wear. During the day, men would wear a stroller coat or a morning coat for business. In the evening they would change into a tailcoat for dinner and events. Once retiring for bed, pajamas would be donned as would a dressing gown, but the chance of anyone seeing them wear them (besides their spouse and perhaps a valet) was slim to none. The most casual attire a gentleman might wear would have perhaps been a tweed suit while shooting or for a walk in the park.

Around the turn of the century, black tie made its mark and the tuxedo overtook the white tie dress code in popularity. Business suits became the standard daywear for decades.

Solid options for casual Friday

Business Casual for Men Changes with the Office Environment and the Job

Aloha Friday Paved the Way for Business Casual

Then came 1966. Until then, casual wear was worn on the weekends at home, but if you worked in an office, you wore a suit and a tie. There was no debate about what was appropriate office attire. Then, a company that made Hawaiian shirts began to strategize how they could increase their profits and a brilliant ad agency in Hawaii came up with the idea of “Aloha Fridays”.

They began petitioning local businesses to allow their employees to wear the Hawaiian shirt on Fridays. Initially penned as a way of showing local pride, it ended up quickly becoming a trend and a popular way of avoiding the rat race of corporate America. The fad began to catch on and soon it hopped off the Islands and made its way to the mainland.

Vintage Hawaii Shirt by Penney's

Vintage Hawaii Shirt by Penney’s

Dockers Ad Campaign Brings Khakis To The Office

By the early 1990s, Levis began to notice the trend on the mainland and many of its customers in upper management began complaining that their employees were too casual, wearing shorts and t-shirts to work. The sale of jeans was in decline and so they took it as a chance to market their new brand called ‘Dockers’ to the corporate community.

They began to launch expensive ad campaigns for their khaki pants and it took off. Employers looked at it as a fair compromise between shorts and suits and the employees agreed. As this was occurring, television shows like Saved by the Bell and movies about wealthy country clubs began showing the Preppy, Ivy and Trad styles to those outside the Northeastern United States. Companies like Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren and J.Crew jumped on the opportunity to increase the sale of their casual wear. They began marketing polo shirts, sports jackets, shirts and chinos as perfect options that worked flawlessly or better than the Levi Dockers brand. It was a revolution of sorts.

How is Business Casual Defined Today for Men?

Business Casual Outfit by Hogtownrake - Single Breasted Blazer with popover shirt, cotton pocket square, khakis and brown tassel loafers

Business Casual Outfit by Hogtownrake – Single Breasted Blazer with popover shirt, cotton pocket square, khakis, and brown tassel loafers

Business Casual in a Nutshell = No Suit, But Also No Jeans

Obviously, that is just a general guideline but in order to nail the business casual look, you have to adapt to your specific company culture. Also, your age is important and the older you are, the more formal your business casual outfit should be.

Business Casual in Traditional White Collar Jobs: Law Firms, Banks, Accounting Firms

If business casual attire is allowed in this kind of work environment it is the most formal of all business casual dress codes and it consists of the following items:

1. Blazer or Sport Coat

The blazer is an essential part of a business casual wardrobe. Avoid gold buttons and stick with dark colors. Navy is the most classic color and your best bet. Single breasted is the standard while a double-breasted navy blazer can look more powerful.  To learn more about the blazer in general, check out our blazer guide.

If you wear a sports coat, opt for something subdued with a subtle pattern and avoid loud summery colors.

Oxford Cloth Shirt - A Business Casual Staple

Oxford Cloth Shirt Button-down shirt – A Business Casual Staple

2. Long Sleeved Dress Shirt

Wear a cotton dress shirt in light blue or pastel colors. An Oxford dress shirt is absolutely appropriate for business casual wear and can be worn in a relaxed state by keeping the top button undone or wearing a more casual knit tie with it. A simple white oxford shirt is the ideal shirt for business casual wear as it can be elevated to business attire for a last minute meeting with the addition of a tie kept in your desk drawer and a blazer thrown over the top.

Business Casual Outfit with silk knit tie for fall

Business Casual Outfit with silk knit tie for fall

3. Neckwear

Neckwear is optional but it certainly elevates your outfit. Ideal ties include grenadine ties or knit ties because they perfectly underline the business casual character. Bow ties certainly make a  statement, and when in doubt stick with the tie.

In case you decide against neckwear, make sure that your undershirt is not visible.

4. Trousers

Jeans should not be worn but the jacket and shirt are ideal

Jeans should not be worn but the jacket and shirt are ideal

5. Dress Pants

A pair of solid navy, grey or even charcoal dress pants pleated or flat front are the perfect choice for business casual wear. With a dress shirt neatly tucked into it, and a blazer or sports jacket you are good to go.

Small Houndstooth pattern ideal for Business Casual

Small Houndstooth pattern ideal for Business Casual

6. Chinos / Khakis

Chinos are appropriate in many casual work environments, but should ideally be paired with a contrasting blazer to elevate their casual heritage.

7. Corduroy Pants

Cords can also be worn in lieu of chinos during the colder months of the year. The same rules apply to corduroys as they do to chinos.

Business Casual Mens by hogtownrake - Cardigan Madder inspired tie that extends beyond the waistband with suspenders, and vintage watch

Business Casual Mens by hogtownrake – Cardigan Madder inspired tie that extends beyond the waistband with suspenders, and vintage watch

8. Sweaters

A sweater vest, cardigan or turtle neck works well during the colder days in addition to your sports coat or blazer. Simply worn over a collared shirt it is only appropriate for Casual Friday. In general, a knitted vest will always make a formal garment more casual.

9. Accessories

Accessories are a great way to distinguish yourself from the pack. Choosing a knit tie or pocket square for your blazer pocket will make you look very dapper. Depending on your environment, a boutonniere or a collar pin may work as well, but when in doubt, skip it.

You could also consider a more casual wristwatch with a more formal outfit or pairing a dress watch with a more casual outfit to add a touch of elegance.

Cufflinks are also a good way to enhance your outfit, just like tie bars.

Wrist bands are a bit too casual and when in doubt, skip them.

Full Brogue Oxford with a beautiful chestnut brown patina

Full Brogue Oxford with a beautiful chestnut brown patina

10. Shoes & Boots

This is where you can have a bit more fun. Rather than sticking with the classic oxfords and derbies, you can get creative with unique colors like oxblood or wearing more casual dress shoes and boots like monk straps, loafers or chukka boots, Chelsea boots or balmoral boots. For an in-depth rundown on business casual shoes, click here.

In terms of color, brown shoes are a great companion for Business Casual, and so are burgundy and Oxblood. Click here to learn how to wear and combine them. 

a-leather-bag-is-always-preferable-to-a-backpack

a-leather-bag-is-always-preferable-to-a-backpack

11. Bags

Sometimes you see grown men wearing backpacks with their business casual outfits. That’s a faux pas and it makes you look like a little school boy. Instead, go with a leather bag in brown or black that works for you. Whether it’s classic, functional or sleek, clean and modern you can find hundreds of leather bags in various price ranges.

Business Casual in the Service Industry

If you work in the service industry, in sales, trade positions or a job where you interact with the public, you should adapt the business casual standard above.

If you are just at the office and you don’t have customer contact, your employer will most likely have a more relaxed attitude when it comes to business casual.

Hogtownrake in combination of light sport coat with charcoal pants and brown wool knit tie, blue shirt and cream pocket square

Hogtownrake combines a light sports coat with charcoal pants and a brown wool knit tie, a blue shirt, and a cream pocket square

1. Jackets

It’s likely that wearing a jacket is optional. So if you don’t want to go with just a dress shirt and a blazer would be too much, consider wearing a vest or a cardigan instead.

2. Shirts

The button-down collar shirt is another classic shirt that is acceptable for business casual wear. Alternatively, a long-sleeved polo shirt is acceptable too, if others wear it in the office as well. You don’t want to be the only one wearing polos though.

In this scenario, business casual does not mean wearing t-shirts, casual sweaters without a collared shirt underneath, hoodies, pullovers or any other style of shirt.

Checked Shirt Fabric - Ideal for Business Casual

Checked Shirt Fabric – Ideal for Business Casual

3. Neckwear

Neckties and bow ties are completely optional, yet they look great with vests, jackets and cardigans.

4. Pants

While dress pants are ok, chinos, khakis, and corduroys are the best choice. Dark colors such as navy and grey are versatile, although lighter colors are preferable for the warmer months of the year.

Pants such as denim jeans, athletic wear, sweatpants, draw-string pants, shorts, and cargo pants should not be worn, nor should any pant with a camouflage print or large visible logo.

Navy pants, burgundy vest and tweed jacket - business casual in the fall

Navy pants, burgundy vest, and tweed jacket – business casual in the fall

5. Sweaters & Accessories

If you decide not to wear a jacket, sweaters and knit vests or cardigans become your best friends. Not only will they keep you warm, but they also look stylish all while adding that casual note to your outfit. Accessorize your outfit as you please but try not to add too many accents, otherwise, people don’t know where to look.

6. Shoes & Boots

Skip sneakers and tennis shoes but you can choose from a wide range of classic shoes in various materials such as leather, suede, and fabric.

7. Bags

Leather bags are best but if you want a canvas-leather or all canvas bag may work as well. You can be more daring with your color choice and go with green, yellow, blue or red if you want.

Chinos are acceptable making this a great business casual outfit

In young start-ups, this would be an appropriate business casual outfit

Business Casual in Startups

Startups are generally much more casual than traditional jobs. They will likely also not have a company dress code but the hierarchies are typically low and often people can wear whatever they want, especially in a tech related environment.

1. Jackets

In most places a jacket is probably too overdressed. Is your startup that place? You’ll figure it out pretty soon. At the same time, startups often have a very accepting culture so if you enjoy dressing up, wearing a jacket the way you like it is a good thing.

2. Shirts, Sweaters & Neckwear

While most startups would consider a t-shirt to be just fine, a nice trim cut polo shirt looks much smarter. Sweaters are perfectly acceptable and neckwear is definitely not the norm but again, if you like it, go for it.

Bold sport coats are too much for business casual

Bold sport coats are too much for traditional business casual but in start-ups they are fine

3. Pants & Shorts

While it’s totally fine to wear denim at most startups, and you can even find people wearing cargo shorts, you are probably better off wearing lightweight summer slacks such as seersucker because no matter what you do in life, people will at least subconsciously judge you based on what you look like. Being perceived as being well put together will never hurt you, but being a slob can. Consider wearing a sports coat with jeans for a polished casual look.

Appropriate business casual attire for young men

Appropriate business casual attire for young men in a start-up

4. Shoes & Boots

A nice pair of boots or shoes will always make you look more dapper than wearing sneakers. Instead of just going with brown, you can be more playful and wear stone, red, green or blue suede loafers, driving mocs or spectators. Of course, sneakers or stylish canvas shoes can be acceptable too, and even though some coworker may wear tennis shoes, you will look better without them.

5. Bags

A portfolio or a leather/canvas bag is your best bet. In terms of colors, anything goes, even though a bright pink bag with pokemon on it may not reflect positively on you. If you are into tech, bags with built-in chargers, cables and camera compartments will satisfy your needs but please, skip the backpack.

A great business casual outfit with outerwear and accessories

A great business casual outfit with button-up shirt outerwear and accessories

Business Casual Outerwear & Accessories

When your job means being on the move, it’s a great idea to ensure your outerwear matches your indoor attire because that active jacket you wear skiing or hiking does not go well with your sports coat.

Quilted Jackets

Lightweight, warm and classic the quilted jacket is slightly longer than your blazer and makes you look instantly well put together. At the same time, it is easy to care for, wrinkles easily and can be machine washed.

Trench Coat

During the fall and spring season, a trench coat will look very dapper. To learn all about this garment, check out our trench coat guide. For a more youthful look, with a trench coat, that is shorter than your knees.

Peacoat with double sided scarf, Jodhpur boots and Chinos - Business Casual

Peacoat with a double-sided scarf, Jodhpur boots, and Chinos – Business Casual

Peacoat

For the cold winters, a pea coat is the perfect business casual companion because it is less formal than a full-fledged overcoat yet still warm, stylish and functional due to its many pockets. To learn more about peacoats click here

Scarves & Gloves

A gorgeous paisley scarf or a nice pair of gloves will add the finishing touches to your business casual look.

This is too casual for business casual unless you work in a young tech company

Jeans & sports coat: This is too casual for business casual unless you work in a young startup office or tech environment

Business Casual DON’Ts: When in Doubt, Dress Up

Jeans should be avoided unless approved by management

Jeans should be avoided in a traditional office or service environment unless approved by management

If you are unsure of whether business casual is allowed in your workplace or not, it is best to err on the side of caution and to be overdressed rather than underdressed. Wear a suit and tie the first day. Then you can see how people dress around you and adapt. If you are still unsure about what is appropriate, ask your coworker or superior.

Business Casual DON’Ts to Avoid

Even for the most casual workplaces, there are times where business casual simply isn’t appropriate. Here are a few of the times you will want to wear a more conservative outfit such as a business suit:

  • When you have an important meeting with clients or customers outside your normal range of duties
  • When you have a meeting with a manager or executive in the organization
  • When you will be attending a board or committee meeting
  • During work-related events, conferences, and symposiums
  • When representing your company in the media or speaking at an event
  • When interviewing for a position or negotiating a raise with your employer
  • When you work for a firm with a policy that does not permit the regular wearing of business casual attire
  • Don’t wear business casual to a  job interview – to learn more about what to wear to an interview, check out this guide
Wonderful business casual outfit for fall with brown suede double monks and green turtleneck

Works for most offices. Wonderful business casual outfit for fall with brown suede double monks and green turtleneck

What about Casual Friday? It Depends

Some companies do not support business casual attire but they will allow it on Fridays, others even allow very casual clothing on Fridays. Talk to your coworkers and your boss to find out how your company handles Friday dress codes.

In case there is a more casual dress code for Fridays, but you notice that senior management doesn’t dress that way, you should consider following their lead. It’s more advantageous for you to dress for the job you want, rather than the job you have.

Conclusion

Business Casual for men is not easy to master because it means different things at different offices and events. Using our guidelines will give you a good place to start.

Finally, remember to use this rule of thumb: if you’re unsure whether it’s appropriate, chances are it’s not! Dress up a notch because it is always best to be slightly overdressed rather than slightly underdressed.


Gentleman’s Gazette

MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!

The Oscars & Men’s Tuxedos & Black Tie Outfits

Ah, the Oscars: that special time of year when the stars come out to experiment with black tie. Let’s take a look at what they get right and wrong with the black tie dress code, and present our guide to mastering the tuxedo. These days, celebrities are among the few people around who have reason to don a tuxedo frequently. So, how did they do? In the past, we’ve seen everything from funny to unique, flamboyant to spot on but overall, the outfits are mostly disappointing.

To help you avoid the same pitfalls, we created a 60+ page Tuxedo & Black Tie Guide and Video.

Black Tie Pocket Guide mockup multi-screen2

Men’s Black Tie at the Oscars 2019

While the 2019 Academy Awards featured some controversy around the ceremony itself–in terms of the lack of a host as well as some of the nominees, winners, and snubs–there were a good handful of bright spots in terms of the men’s outfits. Before we cover the best, worst, and weirdest, here’s a rundown of some of the common trends we observed.

Trend: Velvet Jackets and Tuxedos

Standard wool-and-silk combinations still reigned supreme as with most years, but 2019 saw a large contingent of men on the red carpet wearing velvet in varying amounts, whether it be as an accent, a jacket, or a full ensemble.

Chris Evans in one of the more elegant velvet jackets of the evening, this one in a dark turquoise. The remainder of his black-tie ensemble is also cleanly styled. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Mark Ronson’s outfit, while more modern than classic, still achieved a certain level of elegance. His jacket features a black velvet shawl collar and cuffs, accented by white piping. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

Mario Lopez also followed the velvet trend of the 2019 Oscars, though he could still have benefitted from a cummerbund or other waist covering. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

Trend: Fly-Front Shirts

Conventional tuxedo shirts worn with studs made a strong showing this year, but so did the more minimalist fly-front shirt. As with most other elements of red-carpet black tie, it was worn both elegantly and inelegantly.

Ryan Seacrest’s burgundy-and-black patterned jacket is tastefully unique, but his pre-tied bow tie makes his Oscars ensemble less than stellar. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Viggo Mortensen’s outfit blends elements of a suit (flap pockets, high-buttoning vest) and a tuxedo (satin peak lapels). [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

The stars of “Wayne’s World” illustrate mediocre and competent black tie, respectively. Mike Myers (left) wears a notch-lapel jacket and pre-tied bow, while Dana Carvey wears peaked lapels, a self-tied bow, and a pocket square. [Photo: Valerie Macon/AFP/Getty]

Trend: Midnight Blue Tuxedos

Though the Oscars and similar award ceremonies typically see the greatest representation from either standard black ensembles or ones with bright and flashy colors, the elegant and classic alternative of midnight blue made a not-insignificant showing in 2019.

A cummerbund or other waist covering would have taken Paul Rudd’s midnight-blue, shawl-collared tuxedo from good to great. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Willem Dafoe, pictured here with Giada Colagrande, in a midnight-blue tuxedo, black shirt and necktie, and black patent derby shoes. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

The team behind “Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse” (L-R: Bob Persichetti, Peter Ramsey, Rodney Rothman, Phil Lord and Christopher Miller) show off some of the trends of the 2019 Academy Awards, such as midnight blue and a lack of waist coverings. [Photo: Frederic J. Brown/AFP/Getty]

Trend: Monochromatic Looks

The black-and-white nature of a classic tuxedo was designed to give a man an idealized silhouette, but since the 1990s, monochromatic looks have made their presence known in the realms of Alternative and Creative Black Tie. More than just black-on-black, the 2019 Oscars also saw other one-color looks.

Bryan Tyree Henry was one of several to adopt some of the year’s trends, including a monochromatic ensemble and a velvet jacket. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Christian Bale, pictured here with Sibi Blazic, in his trademark monochromatic outfit. His satin peaked lapels and tie, in combination with a similarly finished shirt, are hallmarks of 21st-century “Alternative Black Tie.” [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

While Samuel L. Jackson, pictured here with Brie Larson, appears to be wearing an all-black ensemble, the stage lights during the Oscars ceremony revealed it to be closer to a charcoal gray jacket and a brown shirt. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Tyler Perry was one of several men to adopt the monochromatic look in 2019, choosing a wine-colored ensemble. Aside from the nontraditional color and button-up shirt, however, the effect of his outfit isn’t altogether negative. [Photo: Craig Sjodin/Getty]

Trend: Patterned & Textured Jackets

While patterned jackets in black tie have an historical precedent dating at least to the introduction of tartan in the 1940s and ’50s, and textures arrived in the 1960s, there were several examples of both types of personalization on the red carpet in 2019.

Not only did Javier Bardem opt for a nearly monochromatic look, but his jacket also features a faint watered texture. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

John Mulaney, pictured here with Awkwafina (left), scored points for an elegantly unique jacket and fly-front shirt, but lost points for a pre-tied bow and lack of waist covering. [Photo: Valerie Macon/AFP/Getty]

Mahershala Ali (right) in an avant-garde take on the tuxedo, featuring a patterned jacket, minimalist shirt, shoes with two finishes, and a black beanie hat. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

Alright, there’s our summary of trends covered for this year. Now, with the previews and trailers out of the way, let’s get to our feature presentation: the good, the bad, and the ugly of 2019 men’s Oscars outfits.

Best-Dressed Men of the 2019 Academy Awards

First up: the men who we believe stayed true to the spirit and history of classic black tie, and came away looking dapper and distinguished.

Trevor Noah’s tuxedo was perhaps the most classically inspired and well-fitting of the evening; it features a 2×1 double-breasted jacket with peaked lapels and jetted pockets, trousers of satisfactory cut, self-tied bow tie and white pocket square, a micropleat shirt, and patent leather shoes. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

Richard E. Grant, pictured here with daughter Olivia, in a burgundy velvet jacket with gray peaked lapels (and matching gray waistcoat). Grant’s look is classic and elegant. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

Bradley Cooper, pictured here with his mother (left) and wife, was one of the most classically styled men at the 2019 Academy Awards (aside from his boots). His Tom Ford tux would have been perfect, with the trousers worn higher and the jacket buttoned. [Photo: Mark Ralston/AFP/Getty]

Daniel Craig, pictured here with Charlize Theron, in a typical Bond-style tuxedo. The midnight-blue jacket and trousers feature classic styling, and the accessories are well-chosen. [Photo: Kevin Winter/Getty]

Michael B. Jordan in a tasteful blue velvet jacket, self-tied bow tie, studded shirt, and patent leather shoes. [Photo: Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP]

Honorable Mentions: Fair and Decent Oscars Outfits

While the above examples were the true winners in terms of elegance, there were a number of other men whose efforts should still be commended.

Along with Bradley Cooper, Joe Alwyn was another man to wear a Tom Ford tuxedo well at the 2019 Academy Awards–though he also neglected to button his jacket. [Photo: Rick Rowell/Getty]

Diego Luna’s midnight-blue ensemble featured a shawl-collar jacket and self-tied bow. Wearing the trousers at the natural waist would have made this outfit nearly perfect. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Alex Rodriguez (right), pictured here with Jennifer Lopez, in an ivory dinner jacket, self-tied bow tie, and tuxedo shirt (whose sleeves are just a bit too short). [Photo: Mark Ralston/AFP/Getty]

While Gary Oldman’s tuxedo is simple in its details (aside from the pocket square), he wears it with an understated confidence that makes him look all the more elegant. [Photo: Craig Sjodin/Getty]

Though Michael Keaton’s ensemble could have been livened up by a white linen pocket square, his shawl collar and studded shirt were dependable and classic. [Photo: Kevin Winter/Getty]

Sam Elliott’s tuxedo was classically handsome, with satin peaked lapels, a studded shirt, and a flattering fit. [Photo: Kevork Djansezian/Getty]

Though Rami Malek wore a proper black-tie waistcoat, his trousers were still seated too low. Even so, his outfit was one of the better ensembles at the 2019 Oscars. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Keegan-Michael Key wore a well-fitting tuxedo featuring wide peaked lapels (though the stunt wires altered his silhouette). A cummerbund or waistcoat would have made this outfit soar. [Photo: Reuters/Mike Blake]

Mixed Results (and Levels of Formality)

The following are a selection of men who had success in some areas and failure in others, when considering the metrics of fit, formality, and overall style.

David Oyelowo’s 2019 Oscars outfit was a good attempt at unique elegance, but the full-velvet ensemble, high-buttoning vest, and loud shoes push it “over the top.” [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

The overall effect of Henry Golding’s outfit is nice, but the devil is in the details; once should never attempt to mix and match black-tie and white-tie garments. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Jordan Peele, pictured here with wife Chelsea Peretti, wore a somewhat average ensemble, with pre-tied bow tie, no waist covering, and sunglasses. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Jay Hart (left), pictured here with Hannah Beachler, has good and bad elements to his outfit. The waist covering and shirt studs are appreciated, while the notched lapels and pre-tied bow tie are not. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Musician Tom Morello’s attempt at black tie was largely uninspired, featuring a notch-lapel jacket with flap pockets, puddling trousers, and a pre-tied bow tie. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

“Roma” Director Alfonso Cuarón chose an elegant brown for his jacket, but the fit left a bit to be desired. [Photo: Craig Sjodin/Getty]

James McAvoy’s jacket and trousers are cut well, but the flap pockets, multiple buttons, and long necktie mean that he’s just wearing a black suit. [Photo: ABC/Rick Rowell]

DeVon Franklin, pictured here with Meagan Good, opted for a charcoal grey tuxedo with black peaked lapels. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

Black-Tie Blunders: 2019 Oscars Tuxedo Missteps

Our penultimate category: the outfits that most will love to hate, and the critiques they’ll hate to love. The following ensembles, in our view, simply broke too many established guidelines, were too sloppy in their fit, or were so uninspired in their execution, that they can’t be redeemed.

2019 Oscars bandleader Rickey Minor, pictured here with wife Karen, in a midnight-blue velvet jacket. While his shirt, jacket, and shoes are nice, Minor’s tie is pre-tied, and his trousers feature a belt (a no-go for black tie). [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

The blue color of director Barry Jenkins’ tuxedo is nice, but his lack of waist covering and socks, as well as an overall poor fit, end up making this outfit a “miss.” [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Sam Rockwell (right), pictured here with Frances McDormand, wore an uninspired take on black tie. It features a notched lapel, two-button jacket, and a high-cut black vest. [Photo: Kevin Winter/Getty]

The cumulative effect of Shamier Anderson’s outfit is that of a contemporary suit; he wears a two-button, notched lapel jacket with flap pockets, a high-buttoning day vest, velvet slippers with no socks, and somewhat gaudy accessories. [Photo: Rick Rowell/Getty]

Though Scott Stuber, pictured here with Molly Sims, ended up with a decent trouser break, the other aspects of his ensemble’s fit are lacking, such as the length of the jacket’s sleeves and the gapping of its quarters. Further, the outfit is more of a standard suit than a true tuxedo. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

Adam Lambert’s Tom Ford tuxedo fit well, and his boutonniere wasn’t bad, but his shirt and shoes tipped the outfit into costume territory. [Photo: Jordan Straus/Invision/AP]

Nicholas Hoult in a monochromatic and pseudo-futuristic black outfit. The double-breasted jacket features excess fabric, to be worn as a sort of wrap. [Photo: Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP]

Jason Momoa, pictured here with wife Lisa Bonet, in a pink-and-black outfit made even more gaudy with jewelry and other accessories. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Stephan James bright red ensemble may have been the most egregious example of the velvet trend at the 2019 Academy Awards. While the shawl collar and double-breasted waistcoat are nice, the pre-tied bow tie, skinny-cut trousers, and white boots are more avant-garde. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

And Finally…The Craziest Outfits of the 2019 Academy Awards

Our final list for this year are the outfits so bizarre that they can’t rightly be considered attempts black tie at all; they’re in a completely different stratosphere! Enjoy…we think?

Chadwick Boseman in an outfit possibly inspired by his role in “Black Panther,” featuring a jacket with long tails and a scarf. [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

Ever the iconoclast, Spike Lee opted for a bright purple suit, blue shirt, and magenta necktie, further accented by a purple hat, gold sneakers, and various accessories related to his films. [Photo: Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic]

Pharrell Williams (left), pictured here with Helen Laischanh, in what was perhaps the most bizarre outfit of the 2019 Academy Awards. Williams wore a matching double-breasted jacket and shorts in camouflage print, along with white tube socks, chunky shoes, a white shirt, and various jewelry. [Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage]

Red Carpet Presenter Billy Porter, in what could conceivably be described as a “tuxedo gown.” [Photo: Frazer Harrison/Getty]

And there you have it: the trends, successes, attempts, failures, and head-scratchers of the 2019 Oscars. What did you think of our appraisals–and of the outfits themselves? Share with us in the comments below. And don’t forget to take a look at our summaries of previous years, and consult our newly-renovated Black Tie Guide for more information on how to pull off Black Tie properly!

Men’s Black Tie at the Oscars 2017

As in previous years, the 2017 Oscars had a bunch of creative black tie interpretations but sadly not a single man nailed it completely in terms of classic black tie standards, even though some came very close.

Here are this year’s outfits. It seems like many men forgot their cummerbund, and some don’t know how to tie a bow tie.

Men’s Black Tie at the Oscars 2016

As usual, the most men skipped a cummerbund or evening vest for their black tie outfits in 2016. Leaving your waistband exposed on a black tie outfit simply exudes a lack of style and attention to detail, which is why you should always wear one or the other. It’s not supposed to look like a suit! Skip the belt, and go with sideadjusters or suspenders instead.

Also, studs have been surprisingly popular even though some were quite big. Likewise, the shawl collar seems to be a popular trend in line with navy blue or midnight blue.

Please click through the gallery to learn all about the details DO’s but mostly DON’Ts.

How To Find The Right Black Bow Tie For You

Finding a black bow tie that works well for you and your tuxedo is not easy. Check out our in depth guide on How To Find A Bow Tie That Works For You or watch our video.

Men’s Tuxedos at the Oscars 2014

Pharrell Williams showed up in a tuxedo jacket with shorts. While this is certainly attention-grabbing, I doubt this find will find many followers. Interestingly, he went to the lengths of picking out shirts studs and opted for a jacket with a double button.

The fit of Chiwetel Ejiofor’s tuxedo is decent, the black bow tie looks interesting, and if you disregard the long sleeves and the wristwatch, this look could have been great if he had worn a vest or cummerbund.

Brad Pitt wore a noteworthy shawl collar tuxedo with grosgrain faced lapels. His shirt features regular mother of pearl buttons that remind me too much of a day shirt even though it was made of marcella piqué.

Darren de Gallo choose a 2 button peaked lapel tuxedo without pocket square and buttonhole on the lapel. Unfortunately, you can see his shirt peaking out but that’s what happens if you skip the waistcoat or cummerbund.

Steve McQueen pulled of an interestingly knotted bow tie and a peak lapel with a bespoke feel.

Jonah Hill pulled off a more classic look than two years ago in regard to his colors but tuxedos should neither have notch lapels nor flap pockets.

The same is true for Mr. Sudeikis. He even buttoned both of the front buttons which you should never do if the jacket has such a low buttoning point. Overall, this Prada outfit is really underwhelming, but what can you expect from a big fashion house these days…

Jared Leto and Matthew McConaughey wore off white dinner jackets and while this is per se a good thing, the fit of Matthew McConaughey’s jacket was very poor and looked like it came just from the rental store. A lapel should never fold like that and it just makes you look cheap. Jared Leto’s jacket fit better, but the red pre-tied bow tie and the flaps are two aspects he could have done better.

Of all these pictures, Tom Ford is once again the best dressed, however, he wasn’t at the Oscars but at the Vanity Oscars Party. His lapels are really wide but that is his style.

The Tuxedo

First of all, it is not surprising to see a complete absence of white tie – though, with so many long evening dresses, the dinner jacket / tuxedo would traditionally not be considered to be appropriate attire for such an event. Nevertheless, the tuxedo is as formal as it gets during the Oscars, with regards to men’s clothing.

How To Wear A Tuxedo

Generally, there are a number of guidelines for what a proper tuxedo should look like:

  1. Black or midnight blue cloth – often barathea or plain cloth, sometimes with a bit of mohair for an elegant sheen
  2. Classic options are: (1) Peaked lapels covered in black silk satin, repp or moiré with a single button or a double-breasted front, or (2) a shawl collar with black silk and single button closure
  3. Ventless Jacket
  4. Cummerbund or waistcoat with a single-button jacket
  5. Neither a cummerbund nor a waistcoat with a double-breasted jacket, but then you must not unbutton it – the waist must never be exposed!
  6. Wear suspenders – never a belt!
  7. A galon stripe on the side of the trousers
  8. Jetted pockets – no flaps, because these are informal.
  9. Pocket square – traditionally in white linen, but a splash of color in silk or linen is also fine
  10. White or ivory shirt with double cuffs and a turn down collar with pleats, a starched, marcella piqué front or a fly front if no studs are available
  11. Black silk bow tie – matching the lapel
  12. A boutonniere in the lapel – a highly overlooked but great finishing detail
  13. Black over-the-calf socks made of pure silk.
  14. Black plain patent leather oxford shoes (without a captoe / brogues)  or plain opera pumps

Although these guidelines can be flexible – just look at Nick Foulkes in his superb velvet evening attire or 82 year old oscar winner Christopher Plummer in his navy velvet smoking jacket – most men will look unfavorable or even ridiculous if they try to deviate too much from these classic standards. However, I can only encourage you to try new things. Usually, it is best to start with one element at the time, and make sure you do not go wild with your colors. A subtly patterned cummerbund, vividly colored socks or a red carnation are great added details!

My favorite black tie outfit from recent years was worn by Tom Ford: He wore an interesting shawl collar jacket in black. Just look at the end of the lapels and compare them to other shawl collar jackets – it is more rounded and gives him a special look without being ostentatious. In combination with the turn back cuffs, it looks like this coat was made in the late 1950’s. The buttons are covered with silk and he opted for 5 sleeve buttons in place of the traditional 4, leaving the last button rakishly undone. His turn down collar shirt features three diamond studs and a larger butterfly bow tie. With a white pocket square and a white carnation boutonniere in his lapel, he looks the part without deviating from the aforementioned guidelines.

How Not To Wear A Tuxedo

In Hollywood, most men don’t seem to care about classic men’s style and so the outcome is often funny or even gaudy – even Prince William has troubles when it comes to black tie attire. I can attribute some of the strange ensembles to the couture houses; simply choosing the brand du jour does not guarantee an elegant combination or well-tailored cut.

Although it is much easier to look well-dressed in a tuxedo, there are many men at the Oscars who simply fall short. So, here is a selected overview of the outfits and what could be improved.

Zachary Quinto wears a tuxedo jacket with flaps and slim shawl collar. Unfortunately, he does not have enough room in his chest, which is why the chest opens up. George Clooney wears a notched lapel tuxedo and  Judd Apatow forgot his cummerbund or vest. Jonah Hill tries to pull of a monochromatic look, as his dark purple shirt and bow tie are barely discernible from his black tux. Since he does not wear suspenders, the fullness of his trousers makes him look unfortunate.

Matthew Lillard skipped his cummerbund, wears his sleeves too long and combines it with boxy shoes – so it looks like he wears an ill-fitting rental tuxedo. Robert Forster wears cap toe shoes, but otherwise he looks excellent.

Andrew Garfield chose to wear low rise trousers and skip the cummerbund, which exposes his waistband and makes his legs look shorter. Also, he opted for full brogue patent leather oxford shoes – bummer.

Christian Bale shows us another monochromatic look with black shirt, necktie, waistcoat, shawl collar and pocket flaps. Each to his own, but I cannot say that I like it. Mark Wahlberg next to him skipped the pocket square for a pair of sunglasses. A tuxedo is for the evening, so you should be able to leave your sunglasses at home.

Russel Brand wore a dark navy velveteen suit with black lapels, black long skinny tie and what looks like a plaid shirt. Not my cup of tea but nevertheless interesting.

Overall, it seems like the tuxedos look worse every year – do you agree? What was your favorite men’s tuxedo at the Oscars 2014?


Gentleman’s Gazette

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Syracuse Men’s Basketball Coach Jim Boeheim Hits and Kills Pedestrian on Highway

(SYRACUSE, N.Y.) — Longtime Syracuse basketball coach Jim Boeheim struck and killed a man standing along an interstate late Wednesday night as he tried to avoid hitting the man’s disabled vehicle, police say.

Syracuse police say 51-year-old Jorge Jimenez was in a vehicle with three others before midnight Wednesday when their vehicle crashed into a guardrail and lost control on I-690 in Syracuse.

Boeheim struck Jimenez as he stood on the side of the road while trying to avoid the vehicle in the middle of the highway. Jimenez was taken to a local hospital, where he was pronounced dead, police said.

“I am heartbroken that a member of our community died as the result of last night’s accident,” Boeheim said in a prepared statement. The 74-year-old Basketball Hall of Fame coach said he and his wife Juli “extend our deepest sympathies to the Jimenez family.”

He said he would not comment further “out of respect for those involved.”

Police said Boeheim is cooperating with the investigation.

“He stopped immediately and exited the vehicle,” said Syracuse Sgt. Matthew Malinowski.

Police said sobriety tests administered to Boeheim and the unidentified driver of the other vehicle were negative for any signs of impairment. No tickets have been issued to Boeheim at this time and the investigation is continuing.

Light rain and freezing rain were falling Wednesday night, though it is unclear if the weather had anything to do with the crash.

Just hours before, Boeheim’s team defeated 18th-ranked Louisville 69-49 at the Carrier Dome. The accident scene is between the dome and Boeheim’s suburban home. Police could not confirm if he was on his way home after the game.

Syracuse University director of Athletics John Wildhack said in a statement the university sent its condolences to “all impacted by this tragic accident.” Wildhack echoed police, saying Boeheim “is in contact with local authorities and cooperating fully.”

Boeheim has coached at Syracuse, his alma mater, since 1976 and is one of the most accomplished coaches in the country. He ranks second all-time in wins in Division I with 944, behind only Duke’s Mike Krzyzewski. Over his 43 years at Syracuse, Boeheim has led the team to a national title in 2003 and five Final Four appearances.

Sports – TIME

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At New York Men’s Fashion Week, Gender Was Fluid—and Fleshy

Photo Illustration by The Daily Beast

Palomo Spain

Despite its name, the Ballets Russes never performed in their home country. The Russian Revolution had decimated the country’s art world, so a group of creative nomads led by impresario Sergei Diaghilev performed throughout mainland Europe. In 1916, the troupe landed in Spain. Over a hundred years later, Madrid-based designer Alejandro Gomez Palomo found inspiration in the historic cultural exchange.

Luckily for the tutu haters in the crowd at Chelsea’s Pier 59 Studios, Palomo’s execution of the idea danced perfectly between the literal and liberal. There were no tutus, sure, but there were ample skirting, ruffles, and lace that one would expect from a ballet motif.

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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N.Hoolywood Men’s Fall 2019

Daisuke Obana has a knack of having his invited guests feel very included within his show space.
An all-white room with bright white fluorescent lighting panels along the floor, and clear acrylic chairs set the tone for the fall collection. With what seemed almost like a palate-cleanser, Obana this season offered an intimate peek at conquering his dislikes. Working in patterns such as checks and camouflage that have frustrated him in the past, Obana seemed to have finally conquered his demons with this solid effort. His clever deconstruction also continued with the use of hidden details such as soft leather jackets, which were in fact two-in-one detachable models.
The play on Christmas-like sweaters and the use of bright colors, though oversized in nature, made the proportions feel more controlled and realistic. The designer injected camouflage throughout, from coats and vests to pants, which he mixed with utility elements such as an army green elongated fleece jacket that made the lineup feel of-the-now with a less gimmicky vibe.
Obana has been in business for quite some time, often showing very themed collections — sometimes too literal — but this time, the offering felt fresh, with great stand-alone pieces, making this one of his most wearable collections

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Randa Invests in Stantt Men’s Brand

Randa has signed on as the lead investor in Stantt, a made-to-measure men’s wear brand. Randa was joined by New England Development, CompanyFirst, Sapna Shah of Red Giraffe Advisors, and entrepreneur John DeWees. The amount of the Series A financing was not disclosed but is said to have been a multi-million dollar investment.
The New York-based Stantt was cofounded in 2013 by Matt Hornbuckle and Kirk Keel and uses proprietary DataFit Technology, which is comprised of 99 sizes and an algorithm that requires only three measurements to create a custom fit. The brand offers wovens, knits and performance cloth in a variety of regular and big and tall sizes. All garments are made-to-order and delivered in seven days.
The financing round was led by Randa Digital Labs and will be used by Stantt to “increase marketing partnerships and support to more than 300 retail partners, enhance brand touch-points across all channels, drive expansion into new product categories and enable the hiring of key personnel,” the company said.
Heath Golden, president of Randa Digital Labs, said his company “appreciated the value of Stantt’s business model from the beginning. We are confident that Matt and Kirk will leverage these funds to take the company to the next

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11 Bad Men’s Style “Rules” to Ignore

Here are a number of supposed style rules or pieces of advice that you may have heard before that we don’t necessarily think you need to follow all the time or in some cases at all.

Our primary mission here at the Gentleman’s Gazette is to educate our audience about what it means to be a Gentleman. And a big portion of that has to do with the history and traditions of classic menswear. Often when men are discussing these menswear traditions their conversation can come to be framed in terms of style rules that must be followed at all costs. While we certainly do believe that there are great many pieces of advice that are rooted in sound logic and the principles of aesthetics, thinking always in terms of ironclad rules that have to be followed is simplistic and pedantic and limits your options in terms of what you can wear stylishly. In other words, you don’t have to think of some of these things as rules that have to be followed a hundred percent of the time and some of the things we’re going to mention today can just be discarded altogether.

With that said, here are some supposed rules or pieces of advice that we think can be bent, broken or just left aside. These aren’t necessarily in any particular order of importance but we’ve numbered them today just to keep things consistent.

Fit is important

1. Wear A Suit And Look Fantastic

Advice number one, just wear a suit and you’ll automatically look fantastic. While this piece of advice does advocate for dressing up which of course we support, it’s a little bit too simplistic in nature. As we’ve said countless times before in the channel, fit is the most important factor when wearing any outfit. You may have a suit that’s constructed from the most luxurious materials available but if it doesn’t fit your frame properly it’s still going to look sloppy.

Quantity does not equal Quality

2. More Clothes, The Better / If It’s On Sale, Buy It

Two closely related tips, the more clothes you have in your closet the better and if it’s on sale in a store, buy it. Here’s the thing about these two related pieces of advice. Ultimately, quantity does not equal quality. You don’t need to have a pair of pants in every color under the sun or a jacket for each day of the month in your closet. There’s nothing wrong with having options, of course, but having a modestly sized closet full of garments that you wear regularly and that look good on you will ultimately serve you just as well if not better than having an excess of options. This dovetails into another tip don’t buy something you’re not going to wear. Even if you see a deal in a store and it’s 90% off, if you don’t think the garment in question is one that’s going to look good on you or one that won’t harmonize with other pieces in your wardrobe, don’t buy it. Save your money however small the amount may be for something that you will wear regularly.

3. Expensive = High Quality / Buy Only Name Brand Items

Another two closely related tips, if something is expensive it must be of high quality and you should only buy name-brand items. These are sort of the reverse of the tip about items being on sale. Just because something is very expensive or has a brand name associated with it doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s high quality. Oftentimes you’re really just going to be paying the extra money for the brand name itself. Whenever you’re buying any garment your primary focus should be on the quality of construction, the materials used and whether that garment in question will work well with other pieces in your wardrobe.

Trends are trends for a reason

4. Follow The Current Trends

An easy way to get started with dressing better is to follow some of the current trends that are going on. It’s never a bad thing to want to upgrade your personal style unless you’re just doing it for superficial reasons or to fish for compliments. If you go out and buy a bunch of items of clothing that are trendy at the moment chances are that they’re probably going to be out of fashion in a year or maybe even less time. After all, trends are trends for a reason. Instead just invest in quality garments that follow these solid principles of aesthetics: fit, function, color theory and so on. If you do this, people’s compliments about your improving style will be genuine as will their respect.

5. Outfits Should Match / Black And Brown Don’t Go Together

A general tip and a more specific tip, everything in your outfit should match and more specifically that you can’t wear black and brown together. People often advocate for a monochromatic look because it’s a relatively safe way of looking put together after all you won’t have any wildly clashing colors if you’re wearing all the same color. Similarly, people say that black and brown are two fundamentally different in terms of formality to be paired together both of these tips require a bit more nuance to be helpful.

First of all, not every article of clothing in your outfit has to match exactly. The thing you should be shooting for is for all of your garments to harmonize in a way that’s aesthetically pleasing. For example, you could be wearing an all-black outfit but keep in mind that there are subtle variations in shades of black between different garments of different fabrics and with different dyes and so on. And if some of these blacks in your clothes are looking almost the same but not quite this can be jarring to the eye. And it might have been a better decision to wear something in different colors that harmonized well. Similarly, black and brown can absolutely be worn together if the garments in question harmonize in terms of intensity and formality.

6. Advice On Fit

Pieces of advice on fit. Things like you should wear all slim fit clothing if you want to look thinner or larger men should only wear clothing that’s more roomy. The bottom line with any advice in terms of fit is this. Properly fitted garments are ones that are proportional to your individual frame and thus that flatter you well. As an example, if a larger man is wearing slim fit clothing in order to look thinner but the garments are actually too tight on him, all of the wrinkling and tugging in different places around the outfit is just going to make him look too big for his clothing. On the other hand, a big man who has too much fabric on his frame is just going to look like a tent. Any well fitting article of clothing on you should be just loose enough to be comfortable and let you be mobile but still fitted enough so that it’s not billowing, sagging, dragging, or so on.

7. Old Chestnuts About What Not To Wear

Some old chestnuts about what to wear-when. Like no wearing white after Labor Day, no wearing white before Memorial Day or no Brown in town. All of these supposed rules are entirely antiquated today. They got their start in the 19th century as a way for the old money aristocracy to easily socially separate themselves from the new money or nouveau riche as well as the lower classes. These old sayings are just rooted in classism and social stratification and as such, they really don’t have any place in the 21st century. While it is true that some informally styled brown suits or other brown ensembles aren’t totally appropriate for traditional white-collar business settings even this is starting to change to some extent.

In the broad-strokes for all of these tips however just remember that if it looks good on you you can wear it at any time.

Wearing a tie as a belt

8. Trousers With Belt Loops Needs A Belt

If your trousers have belt loops, you have to wear a belt. This tip comes from the fact that above all, most men’s clothing really is rooted in purpose and utility. Belt loops are another similarly utilitarian feature. After all, belts are designed to hold up your trousers but they were also historically used to carry things for men who were working. Because this use for belts is really only confined to a few industries or applications these days, you won’t see belts in as many situations. And think of it this way, if your trousers are really fitting properly you won’t absolutely have to have a belt to hold them up. As such you’ve got a variety of options for how to keep your trousers up whether or not they have belt loops. You could wear suspenders if your trousers also have suspender buttons. You could use side adjusters if your trousers have both loops and adjusters. You could use an old tie as a belt if you wanted to go for an especially casual look or yes you could go beltless. Ultimately, you just have to keep in mind the level of formality of the outfit you’re trying to assemble.

9. Leather And Metals Must Match

You always have to match the leathers and the metals in your outfits. This guideline is designed to help men who are just starting out with the principles of classic style to assemble outfits that are more harmonious. And while it’s never going to look bad if you match the metals or the leathers in your outfit you can also be tasteful about bending this rule. For example, you could be wearing gold cufflinks and a watch with a subtle and tasteful silver case or you could be wearing a darker brown belt with slightly lighter brown shoes. In either of these cases, no one is going to arrest you if you try to wear these items together. The key with pairing any articles of clothing is to make sure that no single element of your outfit is overpowering. As long as everything is working in harmony together and your elements are tasteful, you can go ahead and wear slightly different metals or leathers in the same outfit. With that said there are certain metallic tones and leather colors that harmonize better with specific skin tones.

10. Always Match Your Socks To Your Pants Or Shoes

You should always match your socks to either your pants or your shoes. This one has its roots and aesthetics basically the thinking is that if you match the color of your socks to the color of your shoes, your leg line is going to be broken up when you sit down or when your socks are otherwise exposed. Similarly, if you match the color of your socks to that of your pants, your leg line is always going to look longer. And while these two fundamental rules are true and sound, that doesn’t mean that you always have to feel like your socks should match your pants directly. After all, there’s been an ongoing trend over the last few decades for more crazy and colorful socks. And while we don’t necessarily advocate for socks that are really out there, you can feel free to wear them if you think they work with your casual outfit. Otherwise for a slightly more formal outfit feel free to match your socks to your shirt, your tie, or some other element of your outfit. Again the key here is harmony. It’s always going to be safest and most conservative if you match your socks to your pants but you don’t have to do so 100% of the time.

11. Follow The Advice Of Your Favourite Style Site

And finally, just follow all of the advice of your favorite style Youtubers or authors to the letter and you can’t go wrong. Obviously, we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette think that we’re providing the best advice possible to all men who are looking to upgrade their style. And while we do hope that you’ll follow the guidelines we put out. Keep in mind that they are just that guidelines. If you want to experiment to some extent to find your own personal style and expression, go ahead and do so! After all, at the end of the day, you are you and you can express your individuality however you so choose.

CONCLUSION

It’s helpful to think of the principles of classic menswear more as guidelines and guardrails than hard and fast rules. Some of these can be bent some of them can be broken from time to time and some of them can be discarded completely. If you’re just starting out on your menswear journey it can be helpful to follow some of these pieces of advice more closely so that you won’t be making grave mistakes. As you become more experienced however by knowing more of these guidelines you’ll be able to break them tastefully.

What did you think of our list? Are there any that you really think we got dead wrong in our advice? Do you think some of these rules should still be followed to the letter or do you have a different perspective? Whatever the case may be, share with us in the comments below.


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Men’s Hat Etiquette Guide

Just as the gentleman should have a variety of hats for different seasons and occasions, he should also be aware of the rules for when to have his hat on and when to take it off.

Bowler Hats & Caps in 1920
Bowler Hats & Caps in 1920

A great many menswear sources, if they do offer advice on hat etiquette, will typically advise that the most basic rule to remember is to wear your hat when outdoors and to take it off indoors.

While this advice may end up working out for the wearer, let’s say 75-80% of the time, we believe that there’s a better central starting point for approaching hat etiquette which is as follows:

Pitti Peacocks by beforeeesunrise
Pitti Peacocks by beforeeesunrise

Wear Your Hat In Public & Take It Off In Private Spaces.

Stated simply, a private space is any place where people live, work, or pay a fee to enter. Anything else is generally going to be considered public. Here then are some more specific examples of this philosophy in practice.

Lobby of the St Regis Grand Hotel in Rome
Lobby of the St Regis Grand Hotel in Rome
  1. A house is a private space but the foyer or entryway just inside the door can be considered a public space. This goes back to the era when a butler would typically greet guests at the door and take their hats and coats. Similarly, an apartment is a private space but their surrounding hallways, as well as the lobby, are public.
  2. This same general rule is typically true for hotels with the added caveat that spaces reserved specifically for hotel guests such as the pool or lounge are also considered private spaces.
  3. One unique distinction for apartment buildings, hotels, and other such multi florid spaces, an elevator is considered a private space. This goes back to the days when most elevators still had human operators. As such, you would consider the elevator the operator’s office.
  4. Related to the concept of entry fees are membership dues. As such, any club with specific members is also considered to be a private space.
  5. Office buildings where the lobbies and hallways are are public spaces but specific offices are private spaces. In addition, cubicle areas are collectively treated as private, basically functioning as one large office. This isn’t limited to the specific space inside each individual cubicle.
  6. If a doctor’s office has a separate reception area, that’s considered a public space but the waiting room is considered a private space because you’re already waiting for the doctor’s services and in a manner of speaking, already in the office.
  7. Also in the medical field, a hospital building is treated as an all private space. This goes back to the days when most hospitals were still run by churches.
  8. A theater is a private space since you have to pay for a ticket to get in, however, since you have to buy the tickets in the lobby most of the time, the lobby is considered a public space.
  9. Despite usually requiring a ticket for entry, an outdoor stadium is still often considered a public space because it’s outdoors and fairly large. An indoor stadium, on the other hand, is a private space.
  10. A restaurant is a public space, in general, but once you’ve been seated at your table, it becomes a private space since, in theory, you’re paying to be there. Curiously enough, however, the bar is almost always considered a public space at all times.
  11. Stores are typically public spaces with the exception being if you’re given specific attention from a salesperson. Because you’re requiring their services at that point, the interaction then becomes more private at which point, it’s best practice to remove your hat.
  12. Places of worship are generally considered to be private spaces but of course, some religious traditions do have specific rules related to men’s headwear as well as women’s headwear. If you plan to attend a place of worship and don’t know the rules relating to headwear, be sure to ask someone in the know. Hats can also be removed at certain specific times for such activities like prayer, the recitation of the Pledge of Allegiance in the United States, or for the singing of hymns or national anthems.
  13. If you’re in motion, your hat should remain on regardless of the method or openness of transportation. This harkens back to the days when transportation was pretty much all done out of doors, either walking, on horseback, or in an open carriage. Even though we have many new methods of transportation and a lot of them are enclosed, the tradition of keeping your hat on while you’re moving still remains in effect.

And there you have it! Using this public space private space motto, the hatted gentleman can be sure that he’s always observing proper etiquette when wearing his hat or as the case may be, not wearing it.

The lounge at a private members club
The lounge at a private members club

Why Remove Hats In Private Spaces?

The answer is that the uncovering of the head is a sign of deference that goes back millennia. It’s usually done to signal an acknowledgment of intrusion or to show basic gratitude. In other words, the hallmarks of a gentleman.

Hat tip
Hat tip

The Practice Of Hat Tipping

The tradition of tipping one’s hat has its roots in bowing to show respect. A practice that was common across various cultures for centuries. When hats became the dominant fashion for men and bowing was still common practice, the hat would have to be removed when a man bent from the waist so that it didn’t hit the floor. Bowing would gradually become less extreme over the course of the 19th century, culminating in the simple hat tip by the 20th century. These days in the 21st century, even that practice can seem a little outdated.

If you’re a regular hat wearer and feel totally comfortable in headwear, you can give a hat tip to people regardless of gender these days too but if you feel that the behavior would seem affected coming from you, you can go ahead and skip the tip.

Straw Hats in 1958
Straw Hats in 1958

CONCLUSION

Even if you don’t commit to memory every single example we outlined in this guide, you can still be sure that by following the basic model of the public space-private space paradigm, you, as a hat-wearing gentleman, will be courteous with your stylish headwear.

Note: the majority of the information for today’s article was sourced from the writings of menswear historian Bill Thompson.

Which of the etiquette rules we covered today came as the biggest surprise to you?


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Browns Hosts Dinner to Mark Fantastic Man’s Book About Men’s Dressing

LIGHT FANTASTIC: What’s the opposite of hi-tech? The new book by Fantastic Man magazine, “What Men Wear and Why.” A soft cover printed on recycled paper, it includes lots of charming interviews with men about how they dress themselves every day. The interviews are long — no social media-sized commentary here — and, crucially, there are no illustrations or images. Readers — refreshingly — are forced to use their mind’s eye.
Browns hosted a cocktail and dinner on Saturday night during Paris Men’s Fashion Week to mark the book’s publication, and its collaboration with Fantastic Man. The retailer has given over the windows of its store on South Molton Street to different quotes and themes from the book. The event took place at Brasserie Vaudeville, across from the Bourse, with guests including Stefano Pilati, Martine Rose, Liam Hodges, Raf Simons, Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Serhat Isik, Lucie and Luke Meier, Charles Jeffrey and Lou Dalton.

The scene at the dinner 
Stephane Feugere/WWD

Pilati was looking natty in a white, illustrated Comme des Garcons shirt and a jacket of his own design, part of his newest clothing drop, set for Feb. 7. He said there’s a lot more tailoring in the upcoming delivery, and smiled as

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Hedi Slimane’s First Men’s Collection for Celine Is Exactly What You Expected It to Be

Although Hedi Slimane presented a hint of menswear during his debut as Celine’s artistic, creative and image director back in September, Fall 2019 marked the designer’s first full-on men’s show during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday. And it all felt like déjà vu, right? Slightly …

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Christian Dada Men’s Fall 2019

Mansanori Morikawa created a strong collection charged with urban sartorial pieces and less of a nod to Eastern influences than in seasons past.
The show notes explained that the line, called Signal Noise, was influenced by a 1994 art happening, entitled “S/N by Dumb Type,” conceived by a Japanese artist collective that – through the piece – questioned discrimination and imagined a time devoid of borders and stereotypes. The performance’s aesthetic and political elements particularly inspired Morikawa for fall.
There was a coherence to this collection full of streamlined silhouettes for men and women, like the cinched black suit and jacket, brown velour trousers and bomber, and multicolored striped sweater over black velour pants.
This lineup was full of varied details, such as splayed cuffs, tape seams and winged motifs, and fabrics like a coated material appearing shiny; wool; leather, and cotton. Colors varied, too, from black and navy to mauve and teal.
What could have been clashing – the look, say, with a white turtleneck, multicolored, collage-like shirt, glossy gray trousers and long, zip-up gloves – coalesced.

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The Best Celeb Street Style at Paris Men’s Fashion Week

The official start of Fashion Month may still be a month away, but menswear designers are getting a head start on the action with Paris Men’s Fall-Winter 2019 Fashion Week. In addition to all the action on the runway, plenty of stars have stylishly showed up in the City of Light to take in the shows from the front row.

From OG supermodels like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell (shout out to her new curly ‘do) to newbies like Kaia Gerber popping up to support designers like Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton and Off-Whiteand others, there has been plenty of fab street style to rival the dapper duds coming down the runway.

Keep scrolling to see all of our favorite celebrity street style from Paris Menswear Fashion Week!

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LGN Men’s Fall 2019

Designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s fall 2019 collection needed a bit of explaining. What was the link between silver lamé outerwear, boiler suits and safety jackets, pentagram prints and oversized plaid?
It turns out the inspiration for the collection was a mix between Norman Mailer’s 1983 novel “Ancient Evenings” about reincarnation within Egyptian spirituality and the film “River of Fundament,” directed by Matthew Bailey, which took Mailer’s concept and applied it to the fall of the automobile industry in Detroit.
“Choosing an Egyptian theme can be quite complicated because there is always the risk of it looking like a costume,” Nouchi said. It was all in the details: a belt buckle was shaped like a beetle, a key Egyptian symbol, while the stars referenced decorations on ancient tombs and a leopard-print skirt was a reinterpretation of a pharaoh’s wardrobe.
Mixed with workwear, the effect was puzzling. The safety jackets worn over tailoring looked a bit out of place.
Backstage, some pieces were more impressive close up. A sweater was created via a technique allowing the knit to alternate between two different kinds of thread, creating a pattern directly in the garment design. Two knitted suits, while a lot quieter on the runway than the silver lamé

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The Men’s Suit Purchase Priority List

Far too many of us have a suit, or suits, that don’t get used much. It’s probably because something was on sale and we thought we’d wear it more often than we actually do. The solution? Prioritize. Here’s what to buy first, and what to hold off on until later when assembling a suit collection. Not everyone needs all of these. Heck, not everyone “needs” more than one or two of these (if that, in our increasingly casual culture). But if you want to buy a suit, or two, or three, here’s the order to buy them in, starting from the ground up.

 

#1. The Plain Charcoal Wool Suit

Dappered.com

Plenty would favor a navy suit as your first suit, but the argument here is that charcoal looks more appropriate at a funeral. It’s also more sober/conservative for job interviews. Make it a two button, notch lapel. If your job requires you to wear a suit daily, you’ll want more than one of these.

 

#2. The Plain Navy Wool Suit

Dappered.com

Again, many would opt for a navy suit over charcoal for their FIRST suit, and that’s fine if that’s what you choose. But we’re putting it second due to the funeral factor (and let’s hope that doesn’t become a factor).

 

#3. The Light Gray / Tropical Wool Suit

Dappered.com

You’re looking for something you can wear to a summer wedding, but the fabric makes it noticeably more dressed up than seersucker or linen. Also, you can wear these in fall and winter to add a bit of brightness to an otherwise cold and dark wardrobe. Look for lighter weight, not just lighter in color. Also look for less lining. Still favor a notch lapel and two button jacket.

 

#4. The Subtle Pattern Wool Suit

Suitsupply

Slow your roll Sparky. We’re not talking fat chalk stripes or massively contrasting plaids here. Something subtle. Say, a blue on navy plaid. Or a fine pin stripe. A dark charcoal base with a white pinstripe could make you look like you stepped out of a Dick Tracy comic. Less can be more. Especially when it comes to suit patterns.

 

#5. The Lightweight Cotton or Linen Summer Suit

Dappered.com

For when it’s unbearably hot. Don’t worry about the wrinkles. Fabric that’s super light and breezy is supposed to wrinkle. It’s expected, and part of the charm. Favor linen and seersucker suits over chino. Some chino suits can lean a little dense, and thus, won’t breathe nearly as well.

 

#6. The Wool Tuxedo

Suitsupply

There are very few places to rent a good looking, decent fitting tux. (Here’s one.) This is pretty far down the list because most guys these days don’t have black tie events to go to until later in life… if at all. Ever. But if you’re getting married or attending a big event and want to look your absolute best? Buy a tux. Have it tailored. It’ll be a great investment. Even if it’s an inexpensive tux, a little tailoring can go a long way. Peak lapel is timeless. Shawl is a bit more dashing. And finding a tux for cheap can be a tough ask. Retailers assume you’ve got cash, being that you’re shopping for a black tie event.

 

#7. The Tweed or Flannel Winter Suit

Dappered.com

The thick, wintry stuff, for when it’s unbearably cold. Some people live in climates that’ll never necessitate a suit like this. Those who do live in climates with a real winter can usually get by with their normal suits, good layering, and solid outerwear. But hey, there is just something about a flannel suit on a super cold day.

This post originally ran in 2017, but has since been updated with current product suggestions.


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EXCLUSIVE: Heron Preston on Opening Paris Men’s Fashion Week

PARIS — “Streetwear on the runways of Paris has always been that vision that I’ve shared with my friends, the ultimate opportunity to present some new fresh ideas in a city and platform that we have always looked up to,” said Heron Preston, who today at the Palais de Tokyo will present the first runway show of his namesake label, as part of the official calendar of Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Call him a quick learner. Preston, who was “raised” by the skate culture in San Francisco where he grew up, and who first started making noise in 2012 with his art-project bootleg spins on the Givenchy Rottweiler T-shirt, said that it was only around four years ago, when he started working with Kanye West, that he was introduced to the world of Paris fashion.
A former art director for West, Preston — who’s considered a post-Internet Renaissance man — worked at Nike and was also a part of the Been Trill art and DJ collective with Virgil Abloh, Justin Saunders and Matthew Williams.
“I really put myself in that environment with Virgil, Matthew and Kanye [West]. And going to Paris with those guys, I was always that kid who felt like a bit

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Dsquared2 Men’s Fall 2019

In the Instagram era, experiences are becoming key to making a difference in the real, physical environment. While images and videos available on smartphones can help a brand spread its message, a proper event can guarantee guests will go back to their homes with special memories and emotions. This is what Dean and Dan Caten must have thought when they conceived the format of their fall runway show, with guests standing by the catwalk as at a music concert and bars serving drinks. And, indeed, the music was great — a mix of pop, dance and Madonna’s iconic songs. The thing is, people weren’t there for the soundtrack or the drinks. They were supposed to be there to see the clothes. Even if Dsquared2’s intentions were noble — offering a fun, entertaining and unconventional experience during fashion week — the result missed the mark, with several editors leaving before the end of the show because they couldn’t see a thing.
Those who managed to sneak in through the crowd witnessed a pop, rock ‘n’ roll, grungy, disco extravaganza. After presenting a pre-fall collection focused on chic, wearable pieces, the Caten brothers used their fall coed runway to send out a clear

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Front Row at Prada Men’s Fall 2019

PRADA’S BRITS: British actor Callum Turner took in his first Prada show, although he said he had been to Milan a few times. “I love Milan and managed to see friends in a short amount of time,” he said, adding a few Italian words. Coming up for Turner are a BBC “conspiracy thriller” and his role as Frank Churchill in a new rendition of “Emma,” opposite Anya Taylor-Joy playing the titular heroine. “We need more Emma,” he joked about the latest cinematic version of the Jane Austen novel. Filming “in and around England” will start in May, directed by this “really cool American photographer and director Autumn de Wilde, who did Beck’s album and lots of iconic rock ‘n’ roll photos.”
British actor Will Poulter said he was in Milan just for the Prada show, although he did manage to squeeze in one Italian meal. “Yeah, we went to Pizza Express,” joked Turner, who was sitting nearby. The Brits never leave their sense of humor behind, do they? Poulter is currently playing Colin, a computer programmer, in “Black Mirror: Bandersnatch” on Netflix and will star in “Midsommar,” a film about a summer holiday gone wrong, which is due for release later this year.
Turner and

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Canali Men’s Fall 2019

After seasons of unveiling its collections at Milan Fashion Week, Canali made a comeback to Florence with an evening event hosted inside the prestigious Palazzo Antinori. This was a smart move for the brand, as opting for a presentation format managed to openly showcase the high-end quality of its men’s offering. In keeping with current trends, Canali refreshed its tailoring with a relaxed, leisurewear-inspired approach. Graphic urban jackets were crafted from luxury fabrics, while cashmere coats featured sporty details, including detachable nylon hoodies. Corduroy pants were matched with turtlenecks with an artisan feel and country-chic blazers, while the elegant attitude of pin-striped suits was tempered by the narrow coats peppered by macro houndstooth patterns. Cozy alpaca and mohair gave a cozy, warm feel to the overcoats, highlighting the collection’s overall sense of luxurious comfort.

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Astrid Andersen Men’s Fall 2019

Andersen brought a Copenhagen chill to her collection, which unfolded in the vast outdoor courtyard of Broadgate Plaza, near Liverpool Street station. She certainly came prepared, placing little disposable glove warmers on each chair for guests, and sending out a lineup of cozy knits and plump fur coats — in addition to lots of pinstripes and hand-painted prints.
The designer said she wanted to fuse the idea of streetwear with classical tailoring and luxury fur, as the lines between catwalk and street have blurred beyond recognition.
She worked charcoal pinstripe fabric into karate-style suits, puffers and tracksuit bottoms sealed with reflective tape. Her long, swooshing pinstripe topcoats had a gangster-ish feel to them. That pairing of formal and sporty worked beautifully, although it remains to be seen what bank, law firm or judge will let those outfits through the door.
Andersen worked lots of color into the collection, too, via freeform, hand-painted prints on shirts and hoodies and a terrific lineup of knitwear, including cable-knit leggings for a cold January night, and boxy color-blocked sweaters in rich combinations including corn and mint green.
Color also came in the form of fat, luscious fur coats. They were long and silvery, hip-length and baby blue, or short

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London Fashion Week Men’s Fall 2019: What to See, Eat and Where to Shop

LONDON — The first weekend in January is never an easy one, but London has the antidote, with a lineup of streetwear and luxury stores and restaurants serving everything from classic British to Taiwanese food, all of which will be open during London Fashion Week Men’s.

London store End. 
Peter Cook

END OF THE LINE: British property group Shaftesbury has expanded its retail portfolio, opening the first London outpost for the online men’s wear store, End. Occupying 9,000 square feet on the corner of Broadwick and Marshall Streets, the two-story glass-fronted space offers a range of collections from labels including Off-White, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Nike and Adidas Consortiums. The store, which already has units in Newcastle, England, and Glasgow, Scotland, features modern furnishings such as marble staircases and glass showcases.
End is part of a strategy by Shaftesbury to position Soho as a go-to destination for emerging brands. The company has been offering reasonable rents in the neighborhood, which is a few minutes’ walk from Oxford and Regent Streets. Shaftesbury has also helped to install Supreme, Palace, Carhartt and Dukes Cupboard, a multibrand retailer, in the neighborhood. Samantha Bain-Mollison, head of retail at Shaftesbury, has been driving the strategy. She describes End as “influential, with a renowned selection of directional and globally sourced men’s wear.” — Hannah Connolly
End
59

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Men’s Hats: Anatomy & Vocabulary

How well do you know your hats? Let us discuss the key vocabulary for traditional men’s hats, common shapes and styles, and traditional construction materials.

Unusual seersucker with green hat by Gui Bo with purple mottled suit, tobacco linen and light grey summer sport coat

The gents at Pitti Uomo

Parts Of The Hat

Crease or Pinch

Crease or Pinch

Pinch / Crease

The pinch or crease refers to the indentations made along the front, back, and sides of the hat in conjunction with the overall crown shape. One tip related to this specific part of the hat, don’t handle your hats by the crease. It seems natural to do this because of the way that it fits into the hand but if you handle your hats by the crease often, your hands are eventually going to leave oil on the surface of the hat and that might stain it so it’s best to always carry your hat by the brim.

Borsalino Hat

Borsalino Hat

Crown

As you might guess, refers to the central body of the hat. The part that extends upward covering the head. In most cases, the natural shape of a hat’s crown is a dome, although exceptions do exist such as the straw boater, through a process called blocking where water and steam is applied to the surface of a hat, it can be shaped into any number of different crown configurations. While water and steam are applied to the crown to shape it, it’s also stretched over a pre-existing form usually made of wood or metal. This is how the hat can hold its shape after it dries. One other note here, the uppermost peak of the crown is sometimes referred to as the tip.

Brown fedora with contrasting hat band

Brown fedora with contrasting hat band

Hat Band

This is the strip of decorative material encircling the crown positioned just above the brim. It’s most often made from a ribbon which can feature a bow or a series of decorative folds, a leather strip, or a piece of braided cord which can sometimes feature tassels. The Hat band is also sometimes accented further by a decorative pin or a feather.

Short Brimmed Feather hat

Short Brimmed Feather hat

Brim

The brim is the horizontal ledge protruding from the bottom of the hat and extending outward providing shade and protection from the elements for the wearer. The width and style of the brim in conjunction with the shape of the crown are the two things that most directly contribute to a hat’s overall type or classification. The shape and curvature of the brim from front to back and from side to side is sometimes collectively referred to as the flange of a hat.

Panama Hat with Rakish Brim

Panama Hat with Rakish Brim

Another style tip here, while it’s a good idea to carry your hat and take it on and off by use of the brim, don’t store your hat sitting on its brim when you’re not wearing it. If you do this, the brim can lose its shape over time so the best course of action when you set your hat down is to place it upside down so that it’s resting on the top of the crown. Alternatively, you can keep your hats on a hat rack, this way, you don’t have to worry about brim or the crown losing their shapes over time.

One other note related somewhat to storing your hats, when it comes to cleaning, you should occasionally brush your hats with a hat brush to make sure that they don’t accumulate dust or any other sorts of particles.

  • Under brim. Simply enough just refers to the underside of the brim, that’s all there is to it.
  • Brim Binding or Edging. Refers to the specific styling around the outermost edge of the hat’s brim. The edging can be done in any number of ways; you can have a raw cut edge, a sewn edge, a ribbon edge, a leather banded edge, or a hand felted edge which is also known as a Cavanagh edge.

Liner Tipping

The optional piece of fabric on the inside of a hat usually made from cotton or silk, though sometimes made from velvet that will feature the hat maker’s trademark most of the time. For estate hats which is to say, vintage pre-owned hats, or for hats that are yours that have seen a considerable amount of wear, you may occasionally want to clean the inner lining. This can be done with a little bit of soap and water. Alternatively, you can just remove the inner lining as I’ve done with many of my own personal hats.

Leather Sweatband

Leather Sweatband

Sweatband

The sweatband or inner band is a strip just inside the crown that keeps the hat better fitted to the wearer’s head and also diverts perspiration. It’s most typically made of leather for felt hats and made of fabric for straw hats. One tip here, if you flip the sweatband inside out when you’re storing your hats, which again should be done upside down, that will help the sweatband to air out so that perspiration or hair product don’t accumulate there over time.

General Classifications

Black Fedora With Snap Brim and Piping

Black Fedora With Snap Brim and Piping

Snap Brim

We’ll start with the term snap brim which simply refers to a brim that can be snapped or turned on different parts. Usually, it’s done in the front and left up in the back. This is a common feature for fedoras and trilbies in particular.

White blazer, of white knit tie, straw, short brim hat & sunglasses in pocket

White blazer, white knit tie, straw, short brim hat & sunglasses in pocket

Stingy Brim

The term stingy brim describes a hat with a very short brim usually of about one to two inches and the term can also be considered a style of hat in its own right though you won’t necessarily see that done too often.

Packable / Crushable

You might sometimes see hats described as being packable or crushable. A common misconception about this term is that the hat can be really beaten up, totally scrunched down into a ball and that it will perfectly reform itself once you take it out and shape it a little bit. That isn’t necessarily true, while hats marked as packable or crushable can generally receive a little bit more abuse than their stiff counterparts, it’s still best to treat them with care and they may need a little bit of steam and water if they’re really out of shape.

Shapeable

The term shapeable applies to hats that have a metal wire sewn inside of their brims. Some hats come with plastic wires sewn inside the brims and these generally hold their shape whereas the metal is a little bit more malleable so you can style the brim in a number of very specific ways.

Felt Hats

Felt Hats

Ultraviolet Protection Factor

Not to be confused with SPF, the term UPF stands for ultraviolet protection factor. This classification takes into consideration a few factors such as the weave, color, weight, and stretch of a hat and most often, hats with the UPF designation are also coated with a bit of ultraviolet protective agent. There are also specific UPF ratings which are as follows:

  • a rating anywhere from 15 to 24, the Hat will have an ultraviolet protection percentage of about 93% to 96%
  • a UPF rating anywhere from 25 to 39 and the hat will have a protection percentage of 96% to about 97 1/2%
  • a UPF rating from 40 to anywhere above 50 will provide ultraviolet protection percentage of about 97 1/2% to just over 99%

Crown Shapes

teardrop crown

teardrop crown

Teardrop

The teardrop or C crown shape either looks like a teardrop if you are considering the entirety of the hat or like a letter C if you’re looking primarily at the back portion of the crown.

center dent crown

center dent crown

Center Dent

The center crease or center dent style typically features one central crease that runs down the middle of the crown typically at a depth of about one to two inches.

Diamond crown

Diamond crown

Diamond Crown

The diamond crown is a slightly less popular shape than the more commonly seen teardrop but it was a popular style for a time in the 1940s and it’s a little bit wider than your typical C crown shape.

Vintage Pork Pie Felt Hat

Telescope

Also know as the flat top, which is typically seen on everything from top hats to Gambler hats, straw boaters, and porkpie hats. This crown shape either features a totally flat top crown or a slight lip that runs around the perimeter of the crown at a very small depth.

Bowler Hat by Habig

Bowler Hat by Habig

Open Crown

Finally, there’s the open or round crown which simply refers to the natural shape of the crown before it’s shaped into a different style. Also, the crown can be left round for some styles such as the bowler or derby hat.

Common Hat Construction Materials

Cotton Safari hat

Cotton Safari hat

Cotton

Cotton hats are usually quite durable and also sometimes packable or crushable and they’re typically on the softer side as compared to some other construction materials.

Wool felt hat

Wool felt hat

Wool Felt

One of the most common construction materials for traditional men’s hats is wool felt which is crafted by pressing together wool fibers and applying heat and moisture which makes the fibers matte together into a cohesive surface. Like cotton, wool felt is soft and can come in just about any color.

Bates's Poet Fedora in green antelope fur felt.

Bates’s Poet Fedora in green antelope fur felt.

Fur Felt

Fur felt is created in the same manner as wool felt but typically in finer and often even softer materials. Most often from beaver or rabbit pelts. Fur felt is noticeably softer to the touch than wool felt and as such, you can expect to pay a higher price for the increase in quality and luxury.

Planter style Panama hat

Planter style Panama hat

Straw

There are great many varieties of straw used to make hats which vary slightly in strength, durability, and color. For example, raffia is a straw used to make many packable and crushable hats whereas straw coming from the toquilla palm is commonly used in the construction of Panama hats. Most any type of straw can theoretically be woven into a hat but higher quality selections are typically handpicked for their evenness in color, texture, and pattern.

Polyester

Polyester is a less commonly used material for hats or at least for hats of quality but it is out there.

Toyo Straw Pith Helmet

Toyo

As the name suggests, these hats are made from strips of paper that are woven together similarly to straw and then formed into the desired shape. These hats have been increasing in popularity in recent years due to their low cost and relative durability although they’re not quite as durable as straw.

CONCLUSION

So now that you’re aware of all of the various terms and materials that go into making traditional men’s hats, you’ll be better equipped to go out and find a style that suits you best. We’d like to know if you wear hats regularly, what styles do you prefer? Share with us in the comments section below!


Gentleman’s Gazette

MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

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Men’s Wear Brand Fisher + Baker Targets Women for Minneapolis Event

Fisher + Baker is a men’s brand, but that didn’t stop the company from targeting women for an event at its Minneapolis headquarters earlier this month.
More than 80 women showed up at the Fisher + Baker studio for a Sip and Shop event, its first initiative targeted to females.
The event also served as a fund-raiser for Minnesota Wild’s Jason Zucker’s #Give16 Campaign, which was created by Zucker and his wife, Carly, to build the Zucker Family Suite and Broadcast Studio at the University of Minnesota Masonic Children’s Hospital.
Fisher + Baker donated $ 2,500 to the campaign from the event.
“Women are powerful consumers and are influential in the brand and style decisions of the men in their lives,” said Mike Arbeiter, Fisher + Baker’s chief executive officer and president. “By targeting female consumers as part of our brand engagement strategy, we are building awareness with a community that has a strong influence on men’s wardrobes.”
At the event, the women browsed through the brand’s classic styles of outerwear, sweaters and shirts while enjoying wine and cheese. Among the most popular items was the Lexington Vest, which retails for $ 298.
Arbeiter said the Sip and Shop event “was intended as a pilot concept that if

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Men’s Brands Breathe New Life Onto Bleecker Street

Bleecker Street has become a magnet for men’s wear.
The once-red hot stretch of the West Village stumbled badly over the past few years as nationally known names such as Marc Jacobs, Brunello Cucinelli and Ralph Lauren exited in the face of escalating rents and declining sales.
In fact, at its lowest point last year, there was a 25 percent vacancy rate for all of Bleecker from the East to West Villages, according to Chelsea Mullen, marketing director of the Skylight Group, which has been working to revitalize the street.
Joel Isaacs, founder and president of Isaacs and Co., a key real estate broker for the area, said a primary reason for the “revival” on Bleecker is that “rents have corrected and have gone from $ 600 a square foot to around $ 200.”
But it’s more than just rent that draws people to Bleecker. He said despite the empty storefronts, the street retains its charm and beauty. Residents of the area are very affluent, he said, and everyone — New Yorkers and visitors alike — like to stroll the street.
Slowly and without a lot of fanfare over the last year, many of those vacant storefronts have found new life as independent men’s brands — many of

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Alexander McQueen Missing From Paris Men’s Week

SHOW BUSINESS: Big acts missing from the official schedule of Paris Men’s Week in January will include Alexander McQueen. The house plans to switch to a series of intimate events as its new presentation format, WWD has learned. The first will take place in London in May for the fall 2019 season. “Intrinsically connected to the bespoke tailoring heritage of Alexander McQueen men’s wear, these events will be central to the evolution of the house’s commitment to the championing of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation,” the brand said. The house moved to showing in Paris in June 2017 after having shown by appointment in Milan and London in previous seasons.
As expected, Lanvin, which recently parted ways with its men’s creative director Lucas Ossendrijver, is also missing from the lineup, according to the Chambre Syndicale which released its provisional schedule for the week on Friday.
Maison Margiela will also sit out the Paris men’s shows this season as it undergoes a strategic review under chief executive officer Riccardo Bellini, who joined the company in March. The house is believed to be aligning its men’s ready-to-wear collection more closely with its women’s line and Artisanal couture collection. Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano oversees

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Spier & Mackay $100 off Outerwear, Bonobos Tiers, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful

Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. 

 

Bonobos 25% off $ 150 and 30% off $ 250 w/ MERRY

Bonobos

Tiers. High tiers. But you guys know the drill, it’s Bonobos so it’s not tough to trip those tiers. New Year’s is just around the corner, so if you’re in the market for a velvet jacket for that evening, now’s the time to get it and any tailoring done that might need to happen.

 

Spier & Mackay: 2 Reg. Priced Suits from $ 549 | $ 100 off Outerwear w/ NEWCOAT

Spier & Mackay

Suit bundles are back and it looks like Spier & Mackay want to move some of their outerwear as well. Tons of suits available, but size and fit selection is all over the place. Best to just head there, hit the “refine” button, and sort by your size and fit. No code needed for the suit bundles. Just add them to your cart and the discount should show up once the 2nd suit is added.

 

EXPRESS: 40% off Everything

Express

Check the fiber content of the goods. It can be hit or miss. Cotton is great, but cotton isn’t wool. And wool is great, but wool isn’t wool blend (which when done right, can be great, but when done wrong, feels like a trash bag). Just know what you’re potentially paying for.

 

Ledbury: Ledbury: 20% Off $ 150, 25% Off $ 250, 30% Off $ 350

Dappered.com

The Combo Pick:  White Fine Twill Dress Shirt – $ 108.75 ($ 145), Blue Fine Twill Mid Spread Dress Shirt – $ 108.75 ($ 145) = $ 217.50 ($ 290) 

Not as good as Black Friday, but… that’s why Black Friday is Black Friday. Still, any savings from Ledbury is super appreciated. No promo code required. Runs through December 14th in honor of their 9th anniversary. Should work on more than just shirts… but their shirts? Holy crap are they something.

 

Saddleback: Spend $ 300 get $ 50, Spend $ 500 get $ 100

Saddleback on Dappered.com

What the bloody hell has gotten into Dave over at Saddleback? Dude never does deals. Seems like he’s been all about the fun promos lately (I think this might be killing him inside, but… ah well). Anyway, you spend $ 300+ or $ 500+ and they’ll email you an e-gift card for $ 50 (if you spent $ 300+) or $ 100 (if you’re a big spender and went higher than $ 500). Shown above is the new and improved Saddleback thin brief. Full review here.

 

BONUS  Huckberry: LeviMoon – $ 239.98 ($ 289)

LeviMoon Lamp

Ah yes. The most unnecessary but totally absurdly cool home accessory. Good God that’s a lot of money ($ 240!!) for what amounts to a small lamp. But…

What do you want? You want the moon? Just say the word and I’ll throw a lasso around it and pull it down. Hey. That’s a pretty good idea. I’ll give you the moon Mary.

If you use the Levi Moon and It’s a Wonderful Life to propose this holiday season? You don’t have to cite your source. I swear. Get after it young fella.

 

Also worth a mention:


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