Millennials are going nuts over Vans’ Harry Potter shoes

A-Vans-a kedavra! Sneaker company Vans dropped its hotly anticipated Harry Potter line on Friday. Vans is known for its pop-culture collabs, including one with Led Zeppelin earlier this year. But the company sent wannabe wizards into a tizzy in April when they teased the Harry Potter x Vans collection on Instagram. The HP x Vans…
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Scouted: The 4 Best Shoes For Traveling Are Easily Packable, Lightweight, and Stylish

When you’re traveling, you’re on your feet a lot — even if you’re sitting in a place for a solid half day of air travel. And if you’re particular about their comfort and breathability, you might want to find a footwear solution that gives you both and is also lightweight enough to fit into your luggage without weighing you down. Finding the perfect travel shoe isn’t that easy when so many shoes are designed so specifically for various uses like running or everyday ruggedness. So we put together some suggestions to help find the best packable, breathable, comfortable, and all-around perfect travel shoes.

Travel Derby, $ 128 at Nisolo: On a recent trip to New Mexico, I wore these the entire way and they nearly disappeared into my suitcase when I wanted to put them away. The Derbies are handcrafted in Mexico under Nisolo’s pointed ethical guidelines. A soft suede exterior is joined by Nisolo’s ultralight sole and results in each shoe weighing less than a pound. They’re also completely collapsible, letting you roll them up into any crevice of your luggage. These go equally well with a suit as they do with shorts, which means they’re perfect for any travel you have planned.

Forsake’s Maddox Shoes, $ 115 on Amazon: These shoes have really grown on me since Forsake sent me a pair to try. They package together a lot of capabilities and functions and yet their style works really well and stays versatile (plus, my partner really likes them and thinks I look great in them so that helps). A breathable knit upper complements a very comfortable shoe with a moisture-wicking mesh lining. The outsole, which Forsake proudly calls Peak-to-Pavement, is great for wet streets and likewise designed to handle rocky trails and uncharted paths.

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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The Ultimate Loafer Shoes Guide For Men

In this series on men’s footwear, we have previously presented a guide to Moccasins and the Driving Moc, which is related to the loafer, but not the same. What exactly is a loafer, then? In this guide, you will learn all about loafers, their different styles, and the history of this wonderful shoe.

Loafer Guide for Men (Video)

Before we dive into the history of the loafer, let’s set a few ground rules for what distinguishes this type of footwear from other slip-on styles.

Penny Loafers by Rancourt
Penny Loafers by Rancourt

Characteristics of a Loafer

  1. A loafer has no laces; in other words, it’s a slip-on shoe.
  2. A loafer is a “low shoe,” meaning that the ankle is exposed, and the shoe does not wrap snugly around it.
  3. The sole of a loafer is separate from its upper.
  4. Loafers often feature heels with a relatively low profile.
  5. The upper vamp has a moccasin-like construction.
  6. Loafers will sometimes (though not always) feature a piece of leather across the vamp, which is known as a saddle.

From the above description, one can see the similarities between a moccasin and a loafer. However, there are a few key differences:

  1. All loafers have a separate sole; this is not the case for the majority of moccasins.
  2. Similarly, loafers have a defined heel, while moccasins do not.
  3. Unlike moccasins, loafers lack embroidery, beading or other ornamentation on the uppers.

The last difference is the primary reason these shoes, though similar in many ways, evolved into two different and distinct types of footwear. Important to note is that loafers and moccasins developed on separate continents. For more, here’s an historical overview.

Weejuns in the 1960's - a symbol of elegant leisure
Weejuns in the 1960’s – a symbol of elegant leisure

History of the Loafer

Unlike most other shoes, the loafer has multiple origin stories. One such story is that the loafer came directly from the moccasin, thus adding to the confusion. However, menswear and clothing historians are largely in consensus that loafers:

  1. Came from an English royal commission for a new form of house shoe, and/or
  2. Had their beginnings when a Norwegian man, Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger, hybridized traditional Native American and Norwegian footwear.

While it is comparatively difficult to pinpoint the definitive origin of the loafer compared to other types of shoes and boots, its evolution is still quite interesting. For purposes of clarity, this article subdivides the history of the loafer based on types while maintaining a rough timeline.

Wildsmith loafer in brown with Moccasin construction and typical saddle
Wildsmith loafer in brown with Moccasin construction and typical saddle

The Wildsmith Loafer

in 1847, Matthew and Rebecca Wildsmith established a footwear manufacturing business in London by the name of  Wildsmith Shoes. The mainstay of their business was making and subsequently repairing boots for the Household Cavalry, whose mounted unit, the Household Cavalry Mounted Regiment, was part of the Monarch’s official bodyguards.

Covent derby brown leather with U Broguing by Wildsmith
A “Covent” brogue derby shoe in brown leather by Wildsmith Shoes

In 1926, Matthew and Rebecca’s grandson, Raymond Lewis Wildsmith, was commissioned by King George VI, to make a country house shoe that he could wear mostly indoors with his shooting hose. Raymond came up with a low-heeled design that did not include laces and which could be comfortably slipped on and off. The construction of this shoe had a lot in common with the moccasin, though it’s unknown whether Raymond was familiar with that related style, or if he came up with the design based on the very specific instructions he received.  This design soon appeared in his ready-to-wear collection as the 582 (later the Model 98). Today, the style is known simply as the Wildsmith Loafer. While they were designed for indoor wear in a casual fashion, they very soon gained in popularity and began to be worn as a casual choice for outdoor wear.

The Aurland Loafer from Norway & Hand Drawn Moccasin Model for Reorder by Gardner
The Aurland Loafer from Norway & Hand Drawn Moccasin Model for Reorder by Gardner

The Aurland Loafer

At the beginning of the 20th century, Shoemaker Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger (1874-1953) introduced a loafer in the town of Aurland, Norway. Nils had traveled to North America at the age of thirteen to learn the art of shoemaking, and spent approximately seven years there. In 1930, he introduced a new design with heels which came to be known as the “Aurland moccasin.” This design was influenced by two sources: the moccasins worn by the Iroquois tribe of North America, and the traditional, moccasin-like shoes worn by the fishermen in his hometown of Aurland.

Penny Loafers from Aurlands in black leather. [Image Courtesy: Aurlands]
Penny Loafers from Aurlands in black leather. [Image Courtesy: Aurlands]

He slowly started marketing his design in the rest of Europe, where it became extremely popular. At that time, many Americans began traveling to Europe, where they stumbled upon these shoes, took a fancy to them, and brought a pair home. They came to the notice of the editor of Esquire magazine, and the publication began promoting them. Around 1933, the Spaulding family of New Hampshire sensed a business opportunity and started making shoes based on the Aurland Moccasin. They named their product the “Loafer,” which was by that point a generic name for slip-on shoes in America.

Around 1940, industrialist and U.S. Secretary of the Treasury Arthur Gardner bought a pair of Aurland shoes. Later, when he was unable to obtain them in the U.S., he made an unusual request to the Norwegian ambassador, providing him with a sketch of the “slippers”. Apparently, Gardner did not know where the shoes were made, but the ambassador recognized that he must have been referring to Aurland shoes. The local mayor organized production and three months afterward, four pairs of ”moccasins” were mailed to Washington, D.C.

Crockett & Jones Penny Loaffer Model Boston in Scotch grain calf on a classic Last & Variation Mertin on a more modern last
Crockett & Jones Penny Loafer Model Boston in Scotch grain calf on a classic Last & Variation Mertin on a more modern last

The Penny Loafer

In 1936 (some sources put the date as 1934), the G.H. Bass shoe company introduced its version of the loafer, and the company is known for it to this day. Their design included a distinctive strip of leather (the saddle) of the shoe with a diamond-shaped cutout. Bass gave their loafers the name “Weejuns,” to sound like Norwegians – a nod to the Norwegian roots of the shoe, and to differentiate them from the Spaulding loafer. Weejuns became immensely popular in America, especially among the Prep School students in the 1950s, who coined the term “penny loafer.” Legend has it that, wishing to make a fashion statement, they took to inserting a penny into the diamond shaped cutout of their Weejuns. An alternate theory is that, in the 1930s, two pennies were sufficient to make an emergency telephone call.

Bass Weejuns - Made in Maine Reddish Brown & Olive Green
Bass Weejuns – Made in Maine Reddish Brown & Olive Green

Whatever its origins, the name “penny loafer” stuck, and the G.H. Bass penny loafer has achieved the status of a classic, and is a staple of Prep and Ivy Style. In 1937, the American brand Nettleton trademarked the term “loafer” for “Ladies’, Men’s, and boys’ shoes made of leather, rubber, fabric, and various combinations of such materials.”

In the 1930s the Duke of Windsor was a big proponent of penny loafers, and he often wore a brown and white two-tone Penny Loafer with his suits.

The Tassel Loafer

It remains unclear what the roots of the tassel loafers are. Alan Flusser has claimed tassel loafers were popular with the Ivy League set in the 1920s, though our research has been unable to corroborate this. U.S. President Harry Truman wore derby shoes with tassels, but he did not have tassel loafers. Rather, evidence suggests that after the end of the Second World War, the little-remembered but rather debonair American movie actor Paul Lukas bought a pair of oxfords with little tassels at the end of the laces while on a trip abroad. Upon his return to America, he took the shoes to the New York shoemakers, Farkas & Kovacs, and asked them to make something similar. Not fully satisfied, Lukas then took them to Lefcourt of New York and Morris Bookmakers of Beverly Hills. Ironically, both of these firms would pass on the request to the Alden Shoe Company.

Alden Tassel Loafer
Alden Tassel Loafer

The then-president of Alden, Arthur Tarlow Sr., Came up with a slip-on pattern keeping the leather lace and tassel as a decoration. Alden, realizing the potential of the shoe, continued to experiment with the design for another year, finally launching it in 1950 through Lefcourt and Morris stores. The “tassel loafer,” as it became to be called, was a success, finding favor with the sophisticated set of New York and Los Angles. In 1957, Brooks Brothers approached Alden to make a line of tassel loafers especially for them. The resultant design was a tassel loafer with a decorative seam at the back part of the shoe which, to this day, remains exclusive to Brooks Brothers.

The Gucci Loafer

While the loafer grew in stature in America, with the tassel loafer being worn with suits by the 1960s, it was not quite the same story in Europe. In Italy this style of shoe was more widespread, but all other Europeans considered the loafer to be a casual shoe that had no place in the city. However, things changed in 1968 when the Italian designer Gucci introduced a loafer with a golden brass strap in the shape of a horse’s snaffle bit across the front–in keeping with the company’s saddle-making heritage. Gucci opened his New York office in 1953 and noticed the popularity of the loafer. He refined the lines, added the bit, and made them in black (loafers were usually in brown in keeping with their status of being a casual shoe).

The Gucci Horsebit Loafer
The Gucci Horsebit Loafer

The result was a shoe with just enough formality to make it acceptable to be worn with suits.  These went on to be named the “Gucci loafer” and helped establish the loafer in Europe and across the globe. Gianni Agnelli and John F. Kennedy were just a few of the big supporters that helped to popularize the style. In 1969, Gucci sold 84,000 pairs of loafers just in their U.S. stores. In keeping with the continued journey of the loafer, it crossed the pond to America, where it was adopted by 1970s businessmen and almost became a uniform on Wall Street.

Until Gucci designed this loafer, it was a brand known merely to insiders who appreciated saddles and quality luggage. The men’s loafer known as the Model 175 was designed in the mid-1950s. Initially, it sold for approximately $ 14. Subsequently, Gucci developed the Loafer Model 360 for women, and the very similar model 350, which was offered in seven unusual colors. Consequently, the fashion journalist and critic Hebe Dorsey dedicated an entire article to the shoe which was published in the International Herald Tribune and made the shoe an overnight success. Since 1985, the Gucci Loafer has been part of the permanent exhibition of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

The Belgian Loafer

Another popular style is the so-called “Belgian loafer,” invented in the 1950s by Henri Bendel, whose family store also brought Chanel, Dior and Balenciaga shoes to the U.S. Its characteristic features were:

  • A small bow that was easily recognized
  • Soft-sole construction; the shoe was sewn inside-out
  • Unusual colors and materials

After the Bendel family sold their store in 1954, Bendel purchased two 300-year-old shoe factories in Belgium in 1956 and started producing men’s and women’s loafers. The shoe became an instant hit, and the bow was easily recognizable. As such, he single-handedly rescued the Belgium shoe industry, which earned him a Knightship of the Order of Leopold I in 1964. Just six years later he was made Knight Commander of the Order of Leopold II.

Belgian Loafer
Belgian Loafer

Bendel died in 1997, and although the shoes are sold around the world, the only retail store that carries Belgian Loafers is located at 110 East 55th Street in NYC. Of course, you can also find them online. If you enjoy extravagant shoes, Belgian Shoes may be the right fit for you.

Loafer Construction

Since loafers are casual shoes, most of them are Blake- or Blake-rapid-stitched, though you may occasionally find Goodyear-welted loafers. While these are a little heavier, they offer an additional layer of cork, which makes walking in them a bit more comfortable. For casual summer use, an unlined, Blake-stitched loafer might be the better choice if you don’t intend to walk much in them. On the other hand, if you are looking for a more robust, multi-season loafer, a Goodyear-welted version with leather lining is probably the better choice. Twice a year Gucci releases a new version of their loafers, and while the summer ones are unlined and made of very thin leather, the fall-winter collection is leather lined and made of thicker leathers.

Slip-Ons – Not Loafers

Many men and women confuse slip-on shoes with loafers. As the name suggests, you can slip on the shoe just like a loafer, but it lacks the moccasin seam on the uppers and looks more like a regular oxford or brogue. The slip-on is favored by men who wear business suits when they fly because you can easily pass security and unlike a loafer, it is appropriate with a pinstripe business suit.

Slip on Shoe - Not a Loafer because it lacks the Moccasin construction
Slip on Shoe – Not a Loafer because it lacks the Moccasin construction

Loafer Style Advice

The Loafer is a piece of footwear that straddles the two worlds of casual and a more formal style, making it quite a unique piece in that respect. No matter what you read, a loafer is never a truly formal shoe because of its casual heritage.

Scarosso Model Mezzano Tassel Loafer in black suede with red tassels
Scarosso Model Mezzano Tassel Loafer in black suede with red tassels

Gucci Loafers

Gucci loafers are often combined with all sorts of outfits. Of course, using a black, polished box calf leather with leather lining and refining the shape will make the loafer more formal than an off-white, unlined Gucci summer loafer in suede, but at the end of the day, it is still a loafer and not suited for tuxedos or white tie ensembles. Likewise, it is historically not appropriate to wear one with a classic three-piece business suit simply because it is too casual. On the other hand, a casual suit will look just fine with tassels.

Selection of worn out Gucci Loafers
Selection of worn out Gucci Loafers

Tassel Loafers

Many American businessmen over 50 will wear business suits or sport coats with slacks and black or brown tassel loafers. As a rule of thumb, black or oxblood tassel loafers are about as formal as a navy blazer with grey flannel slacks. Wearing tassel loafers with business suits would probably not be considered to be a faux pas, but we would still encourage you to wear them with casual suits or blazer/sport coat combinations and choose an Oxford with more formal garments.

Penny Loafers

Penny loafers are a perfect companion for corduroy pants, chinos, flannel slacks and in the summer even linen or seersucker. In terms of formality, they rank just slightly below a tassel loafer and are a great companion for a blazer outfit with Oxford shirts and a tie or bow tie.

Penny Loafers are versatile
Penny Loafers are versatile

In a casual setting, the loafer can replace any of your other casual shoes to add a bit of dash to your look. However, unlike Boat Shoes, it is recommended that you keep your socks on when you wear loafers. Casual loafers can be worn with denim and khakis, and some men even wear them sockless with shorts. The beauty of rules is that you can break them elegantly once you have mastered them.

What Loafers Should You Buy?

Every man should have at least one pair of loafers. With that said, there is not one style that is objectively more necessary than another. While some would consider the penny loafer or Gucci loafer the number one choice, we would argue that tassel loafers make a good first pair; they can be worn in any situation where the other styles could, but the tassels will add a unique touch to your wardrobe. Here are a few options for purchasing loafers:

Penny Loafers

If you want to invest in a penny loafer, you have many options. Bass Weejuns offers foreign-made models for $ 118, Made in Maine versions for $ 295, and about twice as much for shell cordovan. Apart from that, you can also find them from Allen Edmonds ($ 225 – $ 365), Alden ($ 498), Rancourt ($ 225), and Brooks Brothers ($ 198). For a more high-end interpretation of this style, take a look at Gaziano Girling. In Europe, Jay Butler offers an affordable RTW option for under $ 150, and Crockett & Jones offers a large selection of different styles and lasts.

Monaco Penny Loafer & Variation by Gaziano Girling
Monaco Penny Loafer & Variation by Gaziano Girling

Tassel Loafers

All the brands mentioned above produce tassel loafers as well. Also, Meermin offers interesting budget tassels; Scarosso has an affordable MTO Program, though their offerings would not technically be considered loafers. For an excellent selection of various penny and tassel loafers, take a look at Pediwear.

Gucci Loafers

Although copied many times, Gucci is still the originator of the shoe. Bear in mind that they issue many different versions in gold and silver horsebit hardware. Priced between around $ 450 – $ 630, you certainly pay much more for the brand name than for the quality of leather and workmanship. We’d suggest that you invest that kind of money into higher quality and buy from places like those mentioned above, but to each their own. If you want a Gucci loafer, the most classic bit loafer is black leather with gold hardware, which sells for $ 590. For a more affordable version, check out Jay Butler, which sells them for just $ 175, which is great value for the money.

our Conclusions on Loafers

With this knowledge of the loafer’s rich history and many variations, what are your thoughts about this versatile shoe? Do you have a favorite variety, and how do you wear them? Let us know in the comments below.


Gentleman’s Gazette

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Florida Man Files Motion To Compel Lawyer To Wear Better Shoes

Dress for the job you want, but never dress so well that people wouldn’t feel bad about sticking it to you. So goes the logic of Bill Bone, a Florida attorney who filed a motion in June of 2009 to compel his opposing counsel to wear better shoes. Bone suspected his opposing counsel was wearing ugly shoes as a ruse to impress the jury. Or, as he puts it, “make them believe [he] is humble and simple without sophistication.” A transcript of the filed motion:

PLAINTIFFS’ MOTION TO COMPEL DEFENSE COUNSEL TO WEAR APPROPRIATE SHOES AT TRIAL

Plaintiff moves the Court relief as follows:

This is an action alleging personal injury to Plantiff as a result of a car collision which occurred on December 8, 2002.

Trial is set to begin on June 15, 2009.

It is well known in the legal community that Michael Robb, Esquire wears shoes with holes in the soles when he is in trial.

Upon reasonable belief, Plaintiff believes that Mr. Robb wears these shoes as a ruse to impress the jury and make them believe Mr. Robb is humble and simple without sophistication.

Throughout the discovery of this case, Mr. Robb’s clear strategy has been to attack the credibility of the Plaintiff and his counsel by suggesting the Plaintiff is faking his injuries and exaggerating his claims and demanding more compensation than he deserves because Plaintiff is greedy.

Part of this strategy is to present Mr. Robb and his client as modest individuals who are so frugal that Mr. Robb has to wear shoes with holes in the soles. Mr. Robb is known to stand at sidebar with one foot crossed casually beside the other so that the holes in his shoes are readily apparent to the jury who are intently watching the counsel and the Court at that moment.

Then, during argument and throughout the case,  Mr. Robb throws out statements like “I am just a simple lawyer” with the obvious suggestion that Plaintiff’s counsel and the Plaintiff are not as sincere and down to earth as Mr. Robb.

Mr. Robb should be required to wear shoes without holes in the soles at trial to avoid the unfair prejudice suggested by this conduct.

WHEREFORE,  Plaintiff prays this honorable court grant the relief herein requested.

At press time, I am currently wearing shoes with holes in them, asking my employer for a raise while casually throwing out phrases such as, “I am just a simple blogger.”

 


The post Florida Man Files Motion To Compel Lawyer To Wear Better Shoes appeared first on Put This On.

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The Best Vegan Shoes for Work

Since it’s now been a couple of years since we last shared some recommendations for non-leather shoes, it’s time for another roundup of the best vegan shoes for work. (Prior to that post, we also recommended six brands for the stylish vegan professional, for both clothing and accessories.) The brands below offer many casual styles, but they also provide office-appropriate options that include flats, pumps, oxfords, loafers, boots, and booties. What are your favorite vegan shoe and accessory brands? Are you able to buy them from mainstream sites/stores or do you have to get them from more specialized places? 

{related: the best cruelty-free beauty products}

Here are five brands that offer some of the best vegan shoes for work: 

BC Footwear

pictured above: one / two / three

Available at Nordstrom and Amazon, as well as BCFootwear.com, these shoes are cruelty-free and PETA-certified as vegan. In addition to not using leather for the main part of each shoe, the company also ensures that all components (linings, etc.) are not made from animal products — and that includes the glue, which is free from casein, gelatin, beeswax, etc. BC Footwear uses uses materials such as microfiber, bamboo, hemp, and high-grade polyurethane, and shoes in its Recycled collection (currently, only two styles are categorized that way) are made from scrap materials from production. The pictured shoes range from $ 79–$ 89.

Sudo 

pictured above: one / two / three

Sudo doesn’t have a lot of specific information on its website regarding its production, etc., but it does note that the shoes it makes are “all vegan.” A rep for the company told me that Sudo closed its Boston brick-and-mortar store last year — but it still sells its shoes online, and many styles are available. The pictured ones are $ 69–$ 96.

Ahimsa  

pictured above: one / two / three

Ahimsa shoes, which are also available at Amazon, are made in Brazil in the world’s only 100% vegan shoe factory, where almost all production is done by hand, and sustainability is a priority. The company’s vegan leather is made from polyurethane, and the website addresses the inherent environmental concerns on the vegan leather page. Ahimsa also makes a small selection of accessories. The pictured styles range from $ 85 (Amazon price) to $ 139.

Novacas

pictured above: one / two / three

MooShoes.com, which we mentioned in our last post on vegan shoes, sells cruelty-free shoes and accessories from brands like Matt & Nat, Birkenstock, and Olsenhaus — but they also have their own brand, Novacas (which, translated literally, means “no cows” in Spanish). The shoes (and bags) are ethically produced in European factories and are designed as “updated styles of classic favorites.” The pictured styles range from $ 130–$ 140.

Veerah

pictured above: one / two / three

Shoes from Veerah are cruelty-free and responsibly sourced (the sustainable materials used include apple peels, plastic bottles, and cork), and at least 1% of proceeds go to charity. Besides the shoes themselves, the brand sells unique, removable “accessories” for them, including fringe, ankle straps, and brooches. Depending on your office, they may not be work-appropriate, but they could work well as little desk-to-dinner additions. Veerah’s shoes are pricier than the brands above, and the pictured styles range from $ 268–$ 288.

What have you found to be the best vegan shoes for work? What shoe materials do you choose to avoid leather?

The post The Best Vegan Shoes for Work appeared first on Corporette.com.

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Was It The Shoes? Kawhi Leonard Scores Big For New Balance

Tonight as Kawhi Leonard of the Toronto Raptors takes to the court in the Eastern Conference Finals, fans will be wondering: Will he repeat the dazzling high-arcing, triple-doinking buzzer-beater jump shot that won the Raptors Game 7 against the Philadelphia 76-ers? And, was it the shoes? Kawhi’s game-winning shot was among the most iconic sports moments in recent memory, and it was equally notable for New Balance as it was the first time Leonard wore his New Balance OMN1S sneakers on the court.

New Balance, which is privately held, released the Kawhi 2-Way Playoff pack last week, which feature a retro-themed blue, gold and black colorway. After outbidding Jordan Brand for a partnership with Leonard in November, the Boston-based footwear company committed itself to a marketing strategy uniquely suited to the superstar’s reserved yet focused demeanor. Leonard certainly went on to do his part: his ascension this postseason is the type of marketing coup shoe companies dream about.

Even before Leonard’s Game 7 heroics, the 2-Way Pack sold out in seconds at a premium retail price point ($ 140 for the OMN1S, $ 130 for the 997S) last Tuesday, and both sneakers have dotted the resale market at inflated rates in the week since. Though New Balance has not released sales figures, the fervor surrounding it feels a weighty feat for a brand just six months into its grand return after three decades absent from the basketball footwear arena.

It wasn’t exactly an auspicious time to reenter the fold. According to NPD Group, Inc. data obtained by Footwear News, basketball sneaker sales have been on the decline–dropping 12% in 2017, 7% in 2018 and 21% in 2019 (as of March). And even with disruptors like Under Armour (Steph Curry, Joel Embiid), Puma (DeMarcus Cousins), ANTA (Klay Thompson, Gordon Hayward) and New Balance (Leonard) inciting competition for sponsorships, Nike and Adidas continue to dominate the marketplace from a revenue, retail space and product portfolio perspective, with no signs of giving significant ground. The on-court performance of one star can only take you so far.

But being the biggest brand in basketball footwear isn’t necessarily New Balance’s singular goal–they are playing the long game. According to an analysis by David Swartz of Morningstar, Inc., the Chinese activewear market is already the second largest in the world behind the U.S. at more than $ 30 billion per year and has the potential to grow per capita, to ten times the addressable market in North America. This is a market New Balance has expressed intent to break into. In a 2018 interview, Chris Davis, the company’s VP of Global Marketing, made reference to their building of 3,000 stores in China and stressed that the company was and is unafraid of taking risks. Re-entering the basketball shoe market is a risk, but given the sport’s burgeoning popularity overseas, it’s a calculated one.

After all, you have to shoot to score.

More must-read stories from Fortune:

–How to invest during a trade war

–The 9 biggest IPOs of all time

–The uncomfortable truth about going public with a money-losing business

–Trade war takes giant bite out of Apple’s market value

–Uber is one of the worst performing IPOs ever

Follow Fortune on Flipboard to stay up-to-date on the latest news and analysis

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This It bag brand has just launched shoes and we are here for it

Cult designer handbag label Wandler is launching shoes, and not a moment too soon. Whether you realise it or not, you’ll have seen the Dutch label’s Hortensia bag everywhere. Thanks to its elegant curves, it was an instant hit when it was created by founder Elza Wandler in 2017.

Wandler also created her entire business in less than a year, after telling Bart Ramakers at a dinner that she was thinking of creating bags, who then asked her for some sketches. They went to London and invited buyers to look at the designs, who all wanted in.

Fast forward to 2019, and the designer has created a line of colourful yet minimalist shoes that are perfectly in keeping with the brand’s signature aesthetic. They haven’t even launched yet (set your alarm clocks for tomorrow), but I’ve got a feeling they won’t be around long.

She says, ‘With how our bags have evolved over the seasons, it felt like a good moment to show another side of my creativity and ride that wave now.’

There are five styles: the Bente Kitten, Isa Sandal, Niva Mule, Lina Boot and Lotte Mule. They all tap perfectly into our current obsession with everything 90s, and include some pink peep-toe mules Carrie Bradshaw would kill for, which also come in a very SS19 lime green.

The collection also includes some pointy mules and ankle boots in more wearable neutral shades, and prices will start at £330.

It will be available to buy tomorrow at Net-A-Porter, Matches, Browns, Bergdorf Goodman, MyTheresa, Moda Operandi, Galeries Lafayette, Harvey Nichols and Lane Crawford.

The post This It bag brand has just launched shoes and we are here for it appeared first on Marie Claire.

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Summer 200m Dive Watches, British Made Shoes, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful

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Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. 

 

Banana Republic: Extra 50% off Sale Styles

Banana Republic

Good grief Banana Republic. I haven’t even published the polopalooza yet (coming Monday). And here you are, slashing prices on your Luxe Touch polos already? Well okay then. No code needed here. Extra half off happens at checkout.

 

Club Monaco: Extra 30% off Sale Styles + New Additions to Sale

Club Monaco

Club Monaco is one of those shops that you might not source a majority of your wardrobe from, but every so often? You’ll nab a rad (do people say rad anymore?) piece and be thrilled with it. Or not, who knows.

 

Massdrop: Spinnaker Automatic Diver – $ 130 FINAL

Spinnaker Automatic Diver

Summer beater watch alert! Would look great on a NATO band too. Miyota automatic movement, 200m water resistance, and a simple, well designed dial with a little texture to it. Not bad at all for $ 140. It is final sale though since it’s Massdrop, and they don’t ship until the end of May. Also note that they’re 43mm in diameter, so, not the smallest things.

 

Suitsupply: Even more new warm weather arrivals

Suitsupply

Who buys five pairs of shoe trees at once?

 

Massdrop: Loake 1880 Buckingham Brogue Oxfords – $ 220 FINAL ($ 324)

Loake 1880 Buckingham Brogue Oxfords

Hell of a price for made in the UK, Goodyear welted, wingtip brogues that don’t make it over to this side of the pond that often. Loake just isn’t sold in many spots here in the US. But as always, it’s Massdrop, so it’s final sale. Sold in UK sizes, so if you wear a US size 10, get a UK size 9. Available in four shades of calfskin, and a suede for ten bucks less. Estimated ship date is end of May.

 

Also worth a mention:

  • J. Crew: Extra 50% off some of their sale section w/ SOGOOD
  • GAP: 40% – 70% off plenty + Extra 20% off w/ SUPER
  • Costco: I still believe this is going on? If you have a Costco membership, they’ve got Ex-Officio boxer briefs, $ 30 / 3 online, and some stores have them for $ 25 / 3 pack. Huge thanks to M. Shah for the tip!
  • J. Crew Factory: Extra 40% off clearance items w/ SHORTSTUFF


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How To Lace Oxfords & Tie Men’s Dress Shoes

Shoestrings, bootlaces or shoelaces. It doesn’t matter what you call them. They all do the same thing; they keep your footwear secured and comfortable while you wear them.

One of the easiest ways to change the look and feel of your shoes is to simply change your shoelaces. The advantages are simple: it’s quick, easy, inexpensive and reversible… but before we show you with two videos how to Lace Oxfords the proper way, let’s take a closer look at shoelaces in general because a dress shoe requires a certain kind of lace.

How To Tie Shoes Tie Right Way

History of the Shoelace

While historians haven’t completely narrowed down the history of shoelaces, many believe in accordance with ancient recordings that shoelaces were probably rudimentarily invented sometime in early 3000 BC. The problem with dating it is that for the most part, shoes (as we call them today) that were worn in ancient times were actually just natural materials that were wrapped around the feet of the wearer as without protection and cushioning from the elements, the feet were even more prone to injury, infection and discomfort. One could assume that shoelaces have been around since the dawn of man, as it would seem almost obvious to anyone walking on unpaved natural ground that by covering up the feet, you might be able to survive walking for longer periods of time. Whether shoes were developed for treating injury or in prevention of it, one could presume that they would require some form of fastener in order to secure the material to your feet. If large leaves were used, they probably wouldn’t stay on the bottom of your feet without tying them on, and whether it was strands of grass or another natural string, one could easily call this the invention of laces.

The Areni-1 shoe which was found and has been dated to 3500 BC was actually far more advanced than that, using leather shoelaces passed through slotted eyelets that were cut into animal hide used as shoes. In fact, in 3300 BC, there were even more complex shoes worn by Ötzi the Iceman, that he had tied on using lime bark cut into strings. While these are obviously barbaric versions of the shoelaces we have today, even footwear as far back as the 12th century had surpassed previous developments and were already quite similar to the laces we use today. The Museum of London has a variety of documented samples of medieval footwear that shows the wearer used laces that were passed through a series of hooks down the front or sides of the shoe. One very well known historical myth as it relates to shoelaces is a fairly common rumor that Gurkha soldiers, when fighting on behalf of Britain would quietly crawl the grounds, feeling the laces of other combatants since it was believed that British soldiers used straight lacing whereas the fighters for Japan criss-crossed their laces. In the dark of the night, the Gurkhas would crawl the battlefield feeling the laces discern friend from foe.

If we look into the past few centuries, traditional laces were made from a variety of natural materials including hemp, cotton, and various leathers. Virtually any materials used to manufacture ropes were adopted for use in shoelaces. Today, however, most shoelaces are made of synthetic materials rather than traditionally natural fibers. While the synthetic laces are far more durable and less prone to friction and rot, they are also very slippery and tend to come undone easier than the natural laces.

Dress Shoelaces Should be Made of Waxed Cotton

For dress shoes, it is essential to have quality shoelaces made of waxed cotton because cheap, thick and coarse shoelaces will ruin the look of your shoe laces. 80cm – 31.5″ is the perfect length because it works for 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 rows of eyelets basically covering the entire spectrum of lace-up men’s dress shoes.

Round Shoelaces

The most formal shoelaces for Oxford shoes are round, thin and made of waxed cotton. The thinner your laces are the better the quality. Of course, that’s only true if the laces don’t rip but usually poor quality laces are not made to be very thin because they would break right away.

You don’t want the shoelaces to snap when you pull on them. Even quality shoes like the ones from J.Fitzpatrick sometimes come with laces that are weak and rip the first time you lace them. If came that far and invested in quality goodyear-welted shoes, you should also get good pair of shoelaces or two.

Flat Shoelaces

An alternative for dress shoes is to go with flat thin dress shoe laces. They are a bit wider than round ones and create a different look that is a bit bolder than if you go with round shoelaces.

Appealing Round Boot Laces waxed Cotton in Red and Royal Blue by Fort Belvedere

Appealing Round Boot Laces waxed Cotton in Red and Royal Blue by Fort Belvedere

Dress Boot Laces

Generally, boot laces are thick, robust and made for work boots and the selection of shoelaces for dress boots such as the Balmoral boot is very limited.

For that reason, I created dress boot laces that are perfect for high-quality men’s boots in the sense that they are not only durable but also stylish and elegant. For 95% of men’s boots 120cm – 47.25″long laces are perfect, and hence I opted for that length. If you have chukka boots, or other boots with just 2,3,4 or 5 rows of eyelets, you should go with regular dress shoe laces. For all other boots, 120cm – 47.25″ is the ideal length.

Color Swatches of Flat Waxed Cotton - Luxury Dress Shoe Laces by Fort Belvedere - Made In Italy

15 Color Swatches of Flat Waxed Cotton – Luxury Dress Shoe Laces by Fort Belvedere – Made In Italy

Quality Shoelaces in 15 Colors

I always had a hard time find great shoelaces in the length, quality, and color I wanted. Over the course of an 18 month period, and countless failed tests, we came up with quality dress shoe laces for Fort Belvedere in 15 different colors. We do not only offer them in round and flat but also the same color palette for boots. This is the most comprehensive selection of quality dress shoe laces you will find online. All of our dress shoe shoelaces are made in Italy, of long staple, waxed cotton and should last for a while.

We do not only offer them in round and flat but also the same color palette for boots. This is the most comprehensive selection of quality dress shoe laces you will find. All of our dress shoe shoelaces are made in Italy, of long staple, waxed cotton and should last for a long time.

If you wear Oxfords or Derbys, you should head over to the shop and take a look at our 15 colors of dress shoe laces in round, flat and boot boot laces.

 Evening Shoe Laces

When wearing a tuxedo or tailcoat, most men today wear a patent leather oxford shoe with ordinary cotton shoe laces, whereas elegant gentlemen during the heydays of men’s clothing, would only wear opera pumps or oxfords flat silk shoe laces for evening wear because the wide, flat shoe laces will create a little bow, that looks just like the bow tie your wear around your neck. During my last trip to Europe, I was able to acquire a lot of Original 1930’s silk shoe laces from France but unfortunately they were way too big for the eyelets on my shoes and so I replicated these in different materials so you can match them to your bow tie. We have Satin in 1cm and 1.5cm width, Grosgrain / Faille , Barathea and Velvet.

We offer Satin in 1cm and 1.5cm width, Grosgrain / Faille , Barathea and Velvet laces in our shop, take a look.

 

How to Mix Your Shoelace Color with Shoe Colors?

Today, you can basically mix and match your shoe colors in any way you want. If you want to be strictly classic, you stay with brown and black shoelaces or generally darker laces that match the shoes. For example black goes well with purple shoelaces, grey or blue. Brown is very versatile and works with almost anything green or brown. However, because there are so many shades of browns, you should play around a little bit to see what really works!

At the end of the day, it’s all up to your creativity. Do you have a pair of black oxford shoes that are a bit too formal for a desired outfit? Try some yellow laces and they will look much more relaxed. Especially during spring summer season it is great these laces will make it look more casual, an

How to Lace Oxford Dress Shoes

Mathematically, there are a number of ways of how to tie your shoes but when it comes to classic men’s clothing, things are much simpler, yet it seems like many men don’t know how to tie shoelaces and places like GQ even teach it wrong.

As such it was time for us to create a hands-on video tutorial on how to lace Oxfords, Derbys and Co.

How To Lace Oxford Shoes – Straight Lacing

Oxford shoes traditionally have a different lacing than derby shoes, and the gentlemanly way to lace oxfords is horizontally and parallel. Now, you can achieve the final look in various ways, however some are more difficult to tighten than others.

The Best Way to Lace Oxfords: This works for all kinds of oxfords, not matter how many eyelets they have. Most oxfords have 5 rows of eyelets, and that’s what we use here.

  1. Insert both ends of the lace in the bottom holes /eyelets of the shoe, so you have a line that is horizontal and on top of the leather.
  2. Pull both ends so they are even and have the same length if you have an even number of eyelets such as 4,6… For uneven eyelets, 5, 7 etc. the lace on the outside of the shoe should be about 2″ – 5 cm longer.
  3. Take the lace on the outside of the shoe, and insert it from the bottom in the second hole on the same side, and back into the second hole on the opposite side from the top.
  4. Now, take the lace on the inside of the shoe and insert it from the bottom in the third hole on the same side, and back into the third hole on the opposite side from the top.
  5. Continue in the same fashion. With an even number of eyelets, you will reach the top eyelets from the bottom on each side and it tools great. With uneven holes, you have to make a cross underneath with one end from the bottom. For that reason, one shoelace has to be longer than the other one.
  6. Pull on both ends to tighten the lacing and tie your shoelace. Traditionally


Gentleman’s Gazette

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Scouted: A Runner’s Guide to Getting the Right Type of Shoes For Your Unique Feet

When I started running, I was much heavier than I am today — and my feet were flat.

My form was a joke. I hurt myself constantly and developed terrible habits that cost me both in physical pain and in the time I lost to achieve better fitness. I struggled through the early stages of that journey until I realized my shitty, old shoes were just not going to cut it. I needed serious support for my weak ankles, and I needed to start paying attention to my gait while I ran (which is comically difficult to do).

As a result, I started upgrading my running shoes and buying them with much more intention. Going back to 2017, I largely relied on two different shoes.

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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Goodyear Welted Shoes for $140, On Sale Folding Ray-Bans, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

And here’s one: You know that confident feeling you get when wearing your favorite suit? Imagine feeling that way about your finances. Personal Capital tracks your net worth and spending for free, so you know where your savings stand and how your investments are performing. Get started here.

Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. 

 

Spier & Mackay: Extra 20% off Sale Items w/ SALE20

Spier & Mackay

The best values in menswear get even better. But it really does feel like an end of season clearance (probably because it is). Lots of cool to cold weather fabrics. Sizes are really scattered. So get ready to hunt and peck a little bit.

 

Massdrop: Folding Ray-Ban Clubmasters – $ 89.99 ($ 225)

Rayban Clubmasters

So maybe ketchup and mustard Persols weren’t your thing. Fair enough. So perhaps something more classic? Folding Clubmasters this time around, still from Massdrop. Prescription ready too, in case you want to swap in some Rx lenses in the frames. Final sale of course, being that it’s Massdrop. Estimated ship date is April 16. UPDATE: Dang it! These are no longer available. I’m thinking it was because enough people got on board? Hope you got a pair if you were interested. 

 

Timex: 20% off Select Watches w/ VIP20

Timex

Getting a Timex direct through Timex.com doesn’t always net you the best price. In fact, if it’s a pretty common model? Amazon will almost always have them beat on price. But this VIP sale has got some not-so-common watches up for the 20% discount, including some kinda-rare Waterbury as well as Todd Snyder models. Code expires Monday 3/25.

 

Huckberry: Restocks of USA Made Flint & Tinder 365 Pants – $ 98

Flint & Tinder Pants

Cheap? Nope. But made in the USA from 97% cotton and 3% lycra, they look good, feel great, and now come in both a slim AND a straight fit. (Straight fit! Rejoice squat rack fans!) Also, no hemming (for most of us) required anymore. They now come in inseams of 30, 32, and 34. Full review coming soon. Seven, count ’em SEVEN different colors to pick from.

 

Brooks Brothers: The Wardrobe Event starts Friday 3/22

Brooks Brothers

Doesn’t start until tomorrow, but still worth a mention. While the construction often takes place in the fuzzy, not very specific land of “imported,” they’re built well, and the Italian fabrics they make them out of are top notch. A splurge for most of us, but they wear well and hold up great.

 

BONUS  BR Rapid Movement Denim = 30% off 

Now $ 82 instead of the usual $ 118. Still an investment, and they were going for less during the recent exclusion-free F&F sale, but they get excluded all the time from other promos and codes. So, still worth a mention.

 

Also worth a mention:


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Help, Whitney Wants to Wear a Pair of Literal Children’s Shoes

French brand Veja has long been making the holy grails of ethically-sourced, cool-looking footwear. (Just ask Megan Markle.) In a sustainable fashion marketplace littered with boho sandals and other festival-appropriate garb, Veja’s sneakers speak to a different aesthetic — one more likely to be …

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Syro Shoes: The High Heel Brand for Men & Nonbinary People

For men and many gender-nonconforming people, particularly those with larger feet, buying high heels that actually fit can be near-impossible. Enter: Syro, the shoe company that’s bringing high heels to men and people of all genders. Writer Evan Ross Katz talked to the queer, POC-owned brands founders to find out more about its innovative, community-oriented ethos.
Allure

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The Oxford Shoes Guide

In the recent past, we covered various types of men’s boots and shoes, both formal and casual. In our Brogues Shoe Guide for Men, we touched lightly upon the difference between Oxford and Derby shoes, and today we’d like to focus our full attention on the Oxford, which is often referred to as the most elegant type of men’s shoe – for a good reason!

What Makes an Oxford an Oxford?

Unlike most other shoes and items of menswear, the Oxford shoe has one principal defining characteristic:  the lacing system. Sometimes people use the term Oxford to denote any smart lace up shoe, even those with open lacing, but that’s not how we will use the term in this guide.

First of all, it may seem obvious but an Oxford is a shoe with laces, and not a slip-on, monk strap shoe or Chelsea boot. Second, an Oxford shoe has a closed lace system vs. the open lace system of a Derby shoe. But what exactly does that mean? Let’s start with the basics. The uppers of an Oxford usually consist of the quarters and the vamp.

Vamp

The vamp is that part of the shoe uppers the covers the toes and instep, i.e. the front of the shoe.

Quarters

The quarters are that part of the shoe uppers that wrap around the heel and meet the vamp in the middle of the foot i.e. the back of the shoe.

How To Lace Oxford Shoes?

Oxford vs. Derby - Shoe Anatomy Explained
Oxford vs. Derby – Shoe Anatomy Explained

The eyelets for the shoe laces are generally located on the quarters (with the exception of a wholecut and seamless shoe). For a closed lace system, the vamp is sewn on top of the quarters and the shoelace eyelets facings are stitched underneath the vamp. The shoelaces are used to tie the two quarters together thus fastening the shoe onto your foot. When a shoe is new, the quarters should form a narrow V-shape and once they are worn in, the V should disappear so the quarters touch each other, and you can only see the tongue at the top end. Most British Oxford shoes today, mostly have 5 eyelet holes on each side, whereas American Oxfords often have 6. In the past 4 or even 3 eyelets per side were not uncommon, and so it boils down to personal taste.

History of the Oxford shoe

During the 17th-century men’s footwear was dominated by boots. Often high and tightly fitting with buttons instead of laces, they were worn both outdoors and indoors. More often than not these boots featured rather high heels, a style popularized by King Louis XIV of France, who was of modest height. At that time, France was the cultural epicenter in Europe and hence most gentlemen aligned their sartorial choices with the French Court, and footwear was no exception.

However this style of footwear was very comfortable and although it is not entirely clear who exactly invented the Oxford shoe,  it seems plausible that the students Oxford University popularized a “half boot” called the Oxonian Shoe around 1825.  At first, the Oxonian shoe featured narrow slits on its sides which made it much more comfortable to wear around campus than the high boots then in fashion. Slowly over time, the side slits were replaced with laces (on the sides). These side laces eventually made their way to the instep of the boot. Further changes included lowering of the heel and the height of the boot being lowered to expose the ankle. It is still a matter of debate as to whether all these changes took place on campus, which seems highly improbable.

Some claim the Oxford shoe emerged from Scotland and Ireland. Captoe Oxfords are often called Balmorals after Balmoral Castle to this day. However, what is clear is that they were a result of a quest for a more comfortable shoe and that they were first associated with university students rather than with the older generation of the time.  The timeline for these changes is not very clear, with different sources giving different timelines.

However, we do know for certain that in 1846 Joseph Sparkes Hall, the inventor of the Chelsea boot, stated in The New Monthly Magazine that “Dress pumps are the only shoes now worn. The Oxonian shoe … is the best for walking. It laces up the front with three or four holes. It is none other than high lows now called Oxford shoes.” So, at least by then, the name Oxford had caught on in public.

From there, it was a short step to being acceptable as the proper choice of men’s footwear as boots were now being relegated to being worn for specialized activities such as horse riding. Ironically, the Oxford is a shoe with origins on campus but today, it would probably be considered too formal as an everyday shoe for on-campus wear even by English students, but that’s the evolution of style.

Tan Cap Toe Oxford without Heel Cap and 6 eyelets with burnished cap toe - No 549 by Shoepassion
Tan Cap Toe Oxford without Heel Cap and 6 eyelets with burnished cap toe

Characteristics of the Oxford Shoe

In a nutshell, these are the features of a present day Oxford Shoe

  1. Closed lacing system.
  2. Low-heeled
  3. Exposed ankle.

All Oxford shoes share these essential features, and although most have the eyelets on the quarter, a wholecut or seamless Oxford are the exceptions.

Types of Oxfords

Oxfords are not always Brogues though they sometimes are and Brogues are not always Oxfords though some of them can be. It is the lacing system and the absence or presence of broguing that is the differentiating feature.   To Americans the shoes described in the article are more familiar as Balmorals or ‘Bal- type’ while to the English they are known as Oxfords. To the English, the Balmoral is an entirely different shoe (a particular type of oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt). In this guide, we use Oxford the traditional, English way.

Although technically the construction of the shoe has no impact on the classification as an Oxford shoe, Goodyear welted, or Blake-stitched shoes are recommended because they feature the most classic Oxford styles.

Plain Oxford

The plain Oxford basically consists of the quarter and the vamp. It features neither a leather cap over the toe box nor does it have  broguing. This style is simple yet elegant; black is  the number one choice for evening shoes, and patent leather for black tie and white tie.

If you want to refine the look of your black patent oxfords for tuxedo or tailcoat events, you should take a look into evening shoelaces. Basically, they are much wider than regular shoelaces — they resemble a bow tie and thus mirror the look of your black bow tie. Back during the heyday of classic elegance, they were really popular but today they are all but extinct, which is why I decided to create my own range of evening shoelaces, which you can find here.

Of course, some men also wear pumps, but most men wear laced shoes. Some men prefer a water polish calf leather version that is polished to a mirror shine. Patent leather is definitely more traditional but a mirror shine is fine too. Although in theory this shoe can be made in brown, you are likely to only ever see them in black.

Cap Toe Oxford

The cap toe Oxford, sometimes also referred to as captoe or cap-toe,  is probably the most widespread Oxford shoe style in existence. The most popular color is undoubtedly black, and the black cap toe Oxford is the most popular shoe for the majority of classic men’s shoe manufacturers. Of course, it is also available in tan, brown, cognac, oxblood, etc., but the black variety is the epitome of Oxford shoes.

In addition to the vamp and quarters, an extra piece of leather – the so-called toe cap – is added across the toe box,  and they also feature a heel cap. In black, the cap toe Oxford is the classic business shoe worn by elegant men with their (business) suits across the globe. If you can’t afford a separate pair of patent leather or polished calf leather plain Oxfords,  the black calf leather cap toes may serve double duty as a tuxedo shoe because it is considered by some to be the poor man’s evening shoe, although technically it is not formal  enough for traditional black tie. That being said, it is never correct to wear it with white tie.

Half Brogue Oxford in dark Brown Suede - Model Roberto by Scarosso
Half Brogue Oxford in dark Brown Suede – Model Roberto by Scarosso

Wingtip Oxford / Brogue

The Wingtip Oxford has a pointed toe cap with extensions called wingtips which extend along both sides of the shoe.  Although technically an Oxford, it is generally referred to as a Brogue. When seen from above the cap is shaped like a ‘W’ or a ‘M’ depending on the viewpoint. This style is considered a bit more casual than the Cap Toe. Learn all about Brogues here.

Brown & Tan Saddle shoe No 589 by Shoepassion
Brown & Tan Saddle shoe

Saddle Oxford

These oxfords lack any kind of toe caps and have an additional strip of leather that runs across the top of the middle of the shoes down to the sole (the width of the shoelace eyelets) in a contrasting color. They may or may not have heel caps in a contrasting color. Historically, it is an American style, but you can find them offered by companies all over the world.

Kiltie Oxford
Kiltie Oxford – phot by www.classicshoesformen.com

Kiltie Oxford

The Kiltie Oxford is distinguished with an additional fringed tongue hanging over the top. These shoes are no longer very common.

Wholecut in Antiqued Cognac Brown Leather on an elegant rounded last by Ace Marks
Wholecut in Antiqued Cognac Brown Leather on an elegant rounded last with burnished tips by Ace Marks

Wholecut

This type has an upper that is cut from one single piece of leather. Usually, shoes are made from multiple pieces of leather sewn together. The wholecut oxford has the distinctive closed lacing system and this along with the single piece construction gives it an extremely clean and sleek look. It also requires more leather to make a wholecut because it generally has only one seam at the heel. In recent year, this style has become rather popular and often features a medallion on the toe box or other broguing. It is available in all kinds of colors and is usually a bit more expensive than a cap toe or plain oxford because it requires more skill and more leather. An all black wholecut in patent leather or mirror polished calf works as an evening shoe as long as it has no broguing.

Seamless

The seamless is very similar to the wholecut in the sense that it is made from one piece of leather as well. While the wholecut has a seam on the heel, the seamless does not have a seam, making it even more difficult to produce. Also, it requires even more leather than a whole cut and it takes on average about twice as much leather as is needed for a regular cap toe Oxford. As such, it is usually only offered by bespoke shoemakers. Sometimes, the term wholecut is used synonymously with seamless simply because the term is more well known, although technically this is incorrect.

Style Guide

Strictly speaking, the Oxford is considered to be a formal shoe, however, this does not hold true anymore as they come in many colors, variations and more casual leathers such as suede and brogues.

The Plain & Cap Toe Oxfords

These days the Cap Toe Oxford is often acceptable at less traditional Black Tie events and with dark evening suits. However, traditionally these are the quintessential dress shoes for your day – to – day suits and business wear. They can also be worn when you want to add a dash of sophistication to your casual dress options like chinos and a blazer. It is not recommended to wear black with denim. Cognac, mid-brown, cherry or oxblood serve this purpose much better. For tweed, it is generally recommend to wear boots or derby shoes instead, while fresco, solaro, linen or seersucker can be worn with cap toe Oxfords, although it is recommended not to wear black with these outfits. Instead, a spectator or a solid shade of brown are a much better choice.

The first Oxford every man should own is a black cap toe Oxford. It may seem unexciting but at the end of the day, it is the shoe that can be worn to the office, funerals, weddings, evening events and maybe even black tie and as such, it is very versatile. Unlike brown, black does not come in different shades, and so you don’t need two pairs of black shoes of the exact same style. Many well-dressed men may have only a couple pairs of black shoes in their shoe closet, one of them always being the black captoe Oxford, while they have 10, 50 or 100 pairs of brown shoes. For general advice on how to combine brown shoe colors, including cap toe Oxfords with your wardrobe, please refer to the How to Wear Brown Shoes Guide.

The Wingtip Oxford / Brogue

Wingtips or Brogues are considered to be more casual than the Cap Toe. In black, it can be worn to the office but in dark brown it becomes more versatile because you may now combine them with tweed, and other more casual outfits and looks, including jeans. Especially in shades of brown, these are great for the office in non-white collar environments, sportcoat / blazer ensembles. A dark brown brogue in suede is probably one of the 2nd or third shoes you should buy after you have invested in a black cap toe Oxford.

Wingtip Oxford Shoe with houndstooth bespoke suit
Wingtip Oxford Shoe with houndstooth bespoke suit

The Saddle Oxford/ Kiltie Oxford

These are probably the most casual of the lot but certainly the most difficult to carry off. Either style is only recommended for men who already have at least 15 pairs of shoes and who want to add something unique to their shoe closet. Traditional saddle shoes often come in cream or off white, with a navy blue saddle and red rubber soles, but of course, there are many variations available today. They can work really well with jeans, colored chinos or corduroy trousers and other casual to semi-casual outfits.

Allen Edmonds Canvas Spectator
Allen Edmonds Canvas Spectator

Wholecut / Seamless Oxfords

Wholecut Oxfords are rather popular right now, and they can look particularly handsome when a patina is acquired or applied to the shoe. In plain black, they are a modern alternative for a Tuxedo, and in brown they can be worn with all kinds of suits, combinations or casual outfits. Basically, they can be worn just like a cap toe Oxford.

Wholecut with side gussets by George Cleverly with punched broguing
Wholecut with side gussets by George Cleverly with punched broguing

Where to Buy Oxford Shoes?

There are literally thousands of brands and manufacturers that offer Oxford shoes, and probably over 100 who offer quality Oxfords that the Gentleman’s Gazette would approve of. Obviously, we have not tested them all, and hence, we cannot provide a definitive list. However, we can give you a few tips.

Shoelaces – How to Change the Look of the Shoe Without Buying New Shoes?

If you already own Oxford shoes, and you want a new look without buying a new shoe, the easiest way to do that is to exchange your shoe laces. First of all, make sure to get quality shoe laces that don’t snap. Oxford laces should always be round, not flat and thin because those look more elegant.

A different color than black or brown will really create an entirely new look for your oxford, and dark grey or light grey shoe laces on a black oxford can look very sophisticated. Also, a dark purple on brown can look splendid just as can a blue with white Oxfords.

Budget Oxfords

We consider Budget Oxfords to be in the $ 250 or under range. Brands that we have experience with are Scarosso (Blake Stitched), Pediwear (Goodyear Welted), Loake 1880 (Goodyear Welted), Meermin (Goodyear Welted) and Shoepassion (Goodyear Welted).

Ace Marks Italian shoes, blake rapid stitched on elegant lasts with nice patina in classic and unusual colors. $ 320 for a Wholecut, $ 295 for regular Oxfords = great value.  They also have the occasional Kickstarter where you can get a pair of Oxfords for $ 200, which is an even better value.

Loake produces private label shoes for many companies and offers decent quality for the price.

Meermin is run by a Albaladejo family member who runs the famous Carmina shoes from Mallorca, Spain. In order to save costs, their shoes are made in China, and so the workmanship is not quite on a par with Spain, but the price is considerably lower.

Shoepassion is based in Berlin, Germany and offers a great selection of classic and contemporary Oxfords made in Spain. With good quality and good prices, I recommend them to anybody who is looking for more unusual styles like saddle shoes, spectators or lambs wool lined boots and shoes.

Burgundy Wholecut from Ace Marks in Burgundy Diablo Antique with burnished tip
Burgundy Wholecut Oxford from Ace Marks in Burgundy Diablo Antique with burnished tip

Midrange

Mid range is $ 250 – $ 700.

Crockett & Jones From England, we recommend Crockett & Jones for the classic Gentleman who wants proper English shoes with history in a great selection and variety of styles.

Carmina from Spain produces excellent Oxfords and specializes in Cordovan although these are usually more expensive than $ 700.

Allen Edmonds produces classic American style shoes and apart from an MTO program, they have many specials and deals going on, often bringing the price below $ 250.

High End

Every shoe above $ 700.

Gaziano Girling From England, Gaziano & Girling offer great shoes either MTO or bespoke. The last are often stylized and the epitome of elegance.

Aubercy from France produces very elegant Oxfords (Richelieu in French) just like Crockett & Jones Paris.

In Italy, you can get great Oxfords from the likes of Stefano Bemer, Ugolini, in Austria from Maftei, Scheer or Materna.

Of course, any bespoke maker could be listed here but there are too many to list them all.

What is your favorite Oxford Shoe? Please share your experiences and preferences in the comment section below!

This guide was written by Sven Raphael Schneider & Vikram Nanjappa.


Gentleman’s Gazette

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Alphabet’s Verily has been working on health-tracking shoes to measure movement, weight and falls

Alphabet's Verily has pitched potential retail partners on the health-tracking shoes, which are still early in development.
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Tuesday Sales Tripod – Extra 25% off Brooks Brothers Sale, English Made shoes, & More

The Thursday Handfuls are great, but what if Monday (or Tuesday) rolls around and there are a few sales that can’t wait til the weekend? You’ll find three of the best, with a few picks from each, to start the week below.

 

#1. Brooks Brothers: Extra 25% off Clearance Items

Brooks Brothers

Hot dog, it’s sportcoat-huntin’ season. Couple of knit options up there, but some standard wool hopsacks as well. Of course, there’s plenty more to the Brooks Brothers sale section, but sportcoats that are on sale, and then get another cut are always a solid bet from BB.

 

#2. Massdrop: Made in the UK Loake Cap Toes – $ 224.99 FINAL ($ 360)

Made in the UK Loake Cap Toes

Goodyear welted, Made in the UK, and your choice of either a smooth leather sole, or a studded dainite sole for grip. At checkout, it’s your choice between black shoes with leather or Dainite soles, the dark brown shoes with leather or Dainite soles, or the mahogany shoes with leather soles. It IS UK sizing though. So, most are gonna wanna size down a full size. Just be careful with that.

 

#3. Banana Republic: Extra 50% off Sale Items + 40% off no BR Merch Exclusions

Banana Republic

Still going strong. Holy cow there’s a lot in there. Welcome to end of season winter clearance. Items are coming and going. Big fan of that Motion-Stretch cotton blend blazer, and the leather laptop sleeves are pretty nice too. Sizes are scattered, but picks above had at least a decent size selection at post time.

 

BONUS  Allen Edmonds: Extra 30% off Factory 2nds

Allen Edmonds

These aren’t without risk. Hardly. In fact, it’s a gamble. $ 25 restocking fee on any returns through the mail. And it’s a little concerning that AE is now saying that after this extra 30% off deal, Factory 2nds will only be available for limited times moving forward? The hell does that mean? That just plays into the #narrative that the #menswear internet community (by the way I hate hashtags but I’m using them as descriptors here) is pushing that overall quality by AE is dropping. So no more 2nds / Shoebank open at all times? Does that mean they’re loosening standards on what makes a first quality shoe? Whether that’s true or not seems to be less relevant than ever. If they don’t think customers who pay any attention aren’t asking that question, they’re seriously underestimating the chatter that goes on around them.

 

Also worth a mention…

  • J. Crew: Extra 60% off sale (almost all final sale?) w/ GOFORIT
  • EXPRESS: Extra 50% off clearance.
  • Club Monaco: Extra 40% off sale items.
  • Lands’ End: 50% off one full price item w/ SCARF and 8794
  • Ledbury: Extra 40% off Sale items w/ FINAL40


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FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

How to Wear Brown Shoes & Boots

When assembling outfits, even some otherwise style-savvy men can be unclear on the guidelines for wearing black or brown dress shoes. Hence, this article will elaborate on when and how to wear brown shoes, and highlight how you can combine them with socks and pants. Regularly, sayings such as “no brown in town” or “no brown after six” are mentioned, when in fact things are quite different from when these rules were invented. To understand the basics of Brown Shoes, make sure to:

  1. Watch the Video
  2. Read the article
  3. Check out the infographic at the bottom
  4. Download the free pdf pocket guide & cheat sheet here

History & Evolution of the Rules

If we go back in menswear history, we find that Beau Brummell (1778 – 1840) liked his black, champagne polished leather boots for town wear. Subsequently, leading arbiters such as Comte d’Orsay (1801 – 1852), Hermann Fürst von Pückler-Muskau (1785-1871), Honoré de Balzac (1799 – 1850), Barbey d’Aurevilly (1808 – 1889), and Edward VII (1841 – 1910) followed his example and wore black footwear for formal occasions and in town. During this period, rules along the lines of “no brown in town” or “no brown after six” were very much respected, and ensured people were socially accepted.

Beau Brummel in black boots

Beau Brummel in black boots

By the 1930’s, Edward the Prince of Wales had relaxed some menswear rules, leading to softer materials and bolder colors. He also was a supporter of brown slip-on spectator shoes (the most common type of two-toned shoes)and brown shoes in general. By the 1950’s, even English clothing guides such as Clothes and the Man by Sydney D. Barney advised: “Business and Daywear in town: a lounge jacket with matching waistcoat and trousers with footwear in black or brown, according to the suit.” In this context Barney declares, “Brown shoes with a dark blue suit are undesirable.”

On the other hand, evening dress was still rather formalized; Full Evening Dress with white tie and Dinner Dress both demanded black shoes.

So, you can see, by the 1950’s, the “no brown in town” rule was no longer valid, although black was still the color for evenings.

Three Neapolitans - Three Single Breasted Navy Jackets

Three Neapolitans – Three different pairs of brown shoes

Today, dress codes are much more relaxed than they were in the fifties, and if you’re wearing a well-cut suit, you are likely to be more well-dressed than 90% of the people around you. Even if you wear brown country boots to a restaurant for dinner, chances are that your shoes are still more elegant than many other men — unless it is a respected establishment with a dress code. Many debonair Italians, for example, only wear black dress shoes for funerals, weddings, and formal evening events. Otherwise, they prefer wearing brown leather shoes in varying shades — such as dark brown or tan shoes — especially when paired with blue suits. In Britain, black still holds a certain association with business, at least in more conservative circles. Still, many Englishmen wear more than just black dress shoes for business, with conservative styles like brown oxford shoes becoming increasingly popular.

To be explicitly clear: Today, wearing brown shoes with your outfits is generally acceptable both in the evening and in town. With that said, certain outfits and situations still call for certain footwear; light tan shoes may not be the best option for the evening, and black shoes are imperative for black tie. Remember: just because you can wear brown shoes day and night, doesn’t necessarily mean you should.

Wingtip Oxford Shoe with houndstooth bespoke suit

Brown Brogues (specifically, Wingtip Oxford Shoes) with houndstooth bespoke suit

When to Wear Brown Shoes

Brown shoes can be worn with almost anything, ranging from blue jeans to cavalry twill and corduroy to flannel, worsteds and tweed. Unlike black, brown leather comes in an endless variety of shades, allowing you to create a distinguished shoe collection that is unique. Here are a few guidelines that you can adopt and adapt as you please – just take a look in the mirror and use your sense of style.

1. Business Suits

For 3-piece or 2-piece business suits, in the following colors, in solid worsteds or flannels, pinstripes or faint windowpanes or Prince of Wales Checks:

  • Black: Simply put, don’t wear a black suit with brown shoes. Black shoes, in a conservative style, work best.
  • Charcoal Grey: We suggest black over any form of brown leather. Dark brown can work, but avoid tan shoes.
  • Mid Grey: Black works, of course, but dark brown or cherry are also suitable colors. Once again, avoid tan.
  • Dark Navy: Black works well with a navy suit, but cordovan, tan, and dark brown can also look magnificent and dashing. Of course, you will stand out visually with light tan shoes and a navy suit — something to bear in mind.
  • Lighter Navy:  Black will often look better than brown, but it ultimately depends on the cloth. With pinstripes, we suggest wearing black shoes and never brown.
  • Dark Brown: Pair a dark brown suit with brown shoes, and skip black altogether.
  • Miscellaneous:
    • Since a 3-piece suit is more formal than a 2-piece suit, the heightened formailty of black shoes means they will generally pair better with such outfits. Still, pay attention to the color, as above.
    • If you wear a contrasting double-breasted waistcoat in dove grey or buff, go with black shoes as you will have created a similar ensemble to the formal stroller suit.
    • If you want to play it safe, always choose a shade of brown dress shoes darker than your suit color.
    • Of course, if you are confident enough, you can pair lighter shoe colors with dark suits, but be aware that you will gather more attention that way.
    • Black remains the #1 color for business, so if you’re unsure, stick with black, and if you invest in your first pair of business shoes, go with a black captoe Oxford shoe.
    • If you’re wearing a belt, try to match the color of the shoe to that of the belt. Since there are so many shades of brown leather shoes, your belt doesn’t have to be made of the exact same leather or the same color–just try to match it as closely as possible. If you wear suspenders, you won’t have to worry about this at all!

2. Casual Suits

Bolder patterns, material blends or brushed cotton, corduroy, etc.:

  • Green: Brown every time, for all shades. Avoid black.
  • Khaki: Dark browns work well. Avoid black.
  • Tan: Cordovan, cherry and medium brown are great. Avoid black.
  • White/Off White:  Two-toned shoes, such as brown-and-white spectators, are a dapper choice, but dark brown, mid-brown or reddish brown work as well.
  • Brown: As before, pair brown suits with brown shoes and skip black altogether.

brown shoes_900x400_2


3. Sport Coat / Odd Jacket – Trouser Combination

Fresco, Tweed, Thornproof, Cheviot, Donegal, Flannel, Worsted, Corduroy, Velvet, Cotton, Linen, Gabardine:

  • Black: With black corduroy, tan leather boots (such as chukka boots or desert boots) are a good choice. Black dress pants worn with a sport coat will look best with black shoes, though more casual shoes like black loafers could be a good compromise in terms of formality.
  • Charcoal Grey: We suggest black over any form of brown. Dark brown can work, but avoid tan.
  • Mid Grey: Black works, but dark brown and cherry are also good colors. Avoid tan shoes.
  • Blue: All kinds of brown men’s dress shoes can be worn with blue colors – cordovan, tan and dark brown can look especially smart. As before, you will garner more attention with a light tan shoe.
  • Denim: Basically, all kinds of brown leather shoes work well, even with black jeans (similar to the corduroy example above). Tan and cordovan oxblood will serve you well here. Leather boots are a natural pair for jeans, though anything with a higher ankle would naturally interfere with skinny jeans (not that we necessarily advocate for such a style)!
Chocolate brown half brogue oxford by Antonio Pio Mele

Chocolate brown half-brogue oxford by Antonio Pio Mele

  • Red:   All shades of brown work well, though reddish brown can look a bit too deliberate. Dark brown and tan are good choices
  • Green: As before, try wearing brown every time, for all shades. Avoid black.
  • Khaki: Dark browns work well. Avoid black.
  • Tan: Cordovan, cherry and mid brown are great. Avoid black.
  • White / Off White: Go for two-toned footwear, dark brown, mid-brown, or reddish brown.
  • Brown: Brown only.
  • Dark Brown: In a more smart-casual outfit such as this, tan works well when paired with dark brown.
  • Miscellaneous: Brown is the best shoe and boot color for sport coats and contrasting trousers. Sometimes you may also see boots or shoes with fabric inserts, which can be quite stylish.
Tweed boot

Tweed boot

When not to wear brown shoes

If you wear formal morning dress (morning coat or stroller) or formal evening dress (white tie or black tie) you should not wear brown shoes – go with black. The exception for this exception could be a tuxedo in brown, as worn by Noël Coward, Nick Foulkes, or Lapo Elkann. In that case, a pair of matching velvet slippers could be an option, but that’s only for the very advanced clothes horse.

Don’t wear brown shoes with black suits.

Some traditionalists would argue that you should not wear brown shoes to the opera. However, if you look at the general dress code at operas today, you will likely be more well-dressed in a conservative pair of brown shoes than the other attendees.

How to Combine Brown Shoes with Socks: Vintage Fashion Illustrations

Brown half brogue shoe with shadow stripe socks in blue & red with navy chalk stripe suit

Brown half brogue shoe with shadow stripe socks in blue & red with navy chalk stripe suit

In the vintage illustration above, a navy chalk stripe worsted suit is paired with chestnut brown calf leather brogues. This illustration is from the 1930s, proving that men wore dark suits with brown shoes even then. Moreover, they were experimenting with creative weaves, such as these beautiful shadow stripe socks in blue and red (which can be worn with all kinds of navy suits). Alternatively, blue socks with clocks or blue stripes would be a more subtle alternative.

Brown Oxford with patterns socks and pinpoint trousers

Brown Oxford with patterned socks and pinpoint trousers

The above illustration shows the benefit of understanding color temperature–that is, pairing shoes, socks, and trousers with a warm tone. Below, chinos paired with burgundy striped socks and mid-brown suede derby shoes operates on the same principle. Further, suede shoes in general will always give a more casual appearance, and are therefore a dapper alternative to more common “casual” shoe styles today, such as sneakers.

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks in Burgundy & light grey paired with brown suede Derby shoes

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks in Burgundy & light grey paired with brown suede Derby shoes

Chukka boot with rubber sole, yellow socks, and green trousers

Chukka boot with rubber sole, yellow socks, and green trousers

Here, grey-green pants pair well with mid-brown suede chukkas, underscoring the versatility of both that boot style and of suede shoes in general. The ensemble is brightened up further with some yellow socks. Bright pastel hosiery can be a smart way to add a pop of color that isn’t always visible; Fred Astaire was a proponent of this technique, often wearing things like pink socks in his outfits for films.

Dark brown Norwegian shoe with orange socks and patterned pants

Dark brown Norwegian shoe with orange socks and patterned pants

These checked pants are made of Shetland tweed, and they pair well with the rust-orange, over-the-calf socks and chocolate brown Norwegian shoes with crepe soles. This type of sole is more commonly associated with styles like desert boots, though it can work equally well with footwear with a lower ankle, as shown here.

Brown derby shoes with thornproof tweed and patterned socks

Brown derby shoes with thornproof tweed and patterned socks

The solid brown blucher or derby is a wardrobe staple because it pairs with almost every kind of informal outfit. The shoe in this illustration, while conservatively styled in terms of its leather upper, has a bit more character in its sole, featuring a solid heel and a layered toe.

Mid brown monk strap shoe with green socks and classic prince of wales suit

Mid brown monk strap shoe with green socks and classic Prince of Wales suit

Here, a classic Prince of Wales suit is combined with a mid-brown monk strap shoe and green socks. Blue would work just as well as a sock color, and perhaps even a combination of green & purple. While monk straps have an historical precedent, as shown here, they have exploded in popularity in the 21st century, as their formality level is above that of styles like loafers and boat shoes, but not quite as reserved as oxfords.

Brown oxford shoe with mid brown suit and purple socks

Brown Oxford shoe with mid-brown suit and purple socks

This mid-brown herringbone suit pairs well with a mid-brown shoe, although a pair of more highly contrasting socks would have been better. There are many styles of brogues, of course, and the more broguing a shoe features, the less formal it is.

If you now want to create shoe/sock combinations yourself, take a look at this great selection of superior over-the-calf socks here.

Change The Look Of Your Brown Shoes With Shoelaces

One of the quickest and most simple ways to change the look and feel of your brown shoes is to simply change your shoelaces. The advantages are simple: it’s quick, easy, inexpensive and reversible … For quality cotton shoe and bootlaces for men’s dress shoes, click here.

Red Flat Waxed Cotton Laces on Derby Shoe in Criss Cross Lacing

Red Flat Waxed Cotton Laces on Derby Shoe in Criss Cross Lacing

Light Brown Cotton Shoelaces on Dark Brown Derby Shoes with Bar Lacing

Light Brown Cotton Shoelaces on Dark Brown Derby Shoes with Bar Lacing

Light Brown & Blue Socks with Suede Shoes in Brown

Light Brown & Blue Socks with Suede Shoes in Brown and green shoelaces

Brown Leather Textures

You will notice that brown box calf leather and suede shoes have been becoming more popular in recent years. Buffalo, reindeer skin, and alligator have been classic, yet expensive, brown shoe leathers as well. Generally, you should keep in mind that shoes with more texture are less formal. Sometimes you may even see ostrich, pigskin, fish skin, or elephant hide for shoes. Most of the time, the last is not a classic shape and the entire shoe just screams for attention–as such, we would instead recommend wearing more traditional leather shoes with formal outfits, and with casual outfits, choices like brogues, brown suede shoes, brown loafers, or ankle boots.

Leather Patina

Unlike black leather shoes, brown shoes will develop a patina over time, which can be further enhanced by leather dyes and special polishing techniques. As an example, take a look at at this beautiful patina.

Cognac Brown Derby Full Brogue with 2 inch cuff

Cognac Brown Derby Full Brogue with 2 inch cuff

Carpincho shoes & antique patina oxford

Carpincho shoes & antique brown patina Oxford

Conclusion

Brown shoes are not a substitute for black shoes, and every man should own at least one pair of black plain Oxfords. If you work in a white-collar environment, you can invest in a few pairs of black leather shoes, but otherwise go with brown because it is more versatile, it develops a fantastic patina over time, and it is the better color for casual outfits. If you don’t work in an office environment and rarely attend formal evening events, a single pair of black shoes may be enough for you, but you can never have enough brown shoes! If you like formal evening wear, invest in a pair of black patent leather Oxfords (in Austria Derby’s) or opera pumps – it is historically the correct choice for evening wear, even though some prefer polished calf skin for evening shoes.

In the broad strokes, brown footwear–everything from loafers to lace-up boots, wing-tips to cowboy boots–sports an amazing versatility, and wearing brown shoes or boots with items as varied as button-down shirts and leather jackets will serve you well. All told, there’s a lot that brown can do for you.


Gentleman’s Gazette

MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!

Payless Pranks VIPs, Sells Discount Shoes At Luxury Prices

(AP Photo)

 

LOS ANGELES (AP) — Payless taught fashion influencers a lesson about shoes by opening a fake store that sold Main Street shoes at Madison Avenue prices.

Payless ShoeSource held a launch party in Los Angeles for the bogus label Palessi and invited the fashionistas to sample the merchandise. Payless posted a video of what happened on Facebook.

The VIP shoppers paid as much as $ 645 for shoes that sell from $ 19.99 to $ 39.99 at Payless. The store rang up $ 3,000 before Payless came clean with the reveal.

One shopper exclaimed, “Shut up! Are you serious?”

The pranked shoppers got their money back and were allowed to keep the shoes.

Their reactions will be featured in a series of commercials.

[ione_media_gallery id=”634484″ overlay=”true”]

HEAD BACK TO THE BLACKAMERICAWEB.COM HOMEPAGE

Life & Style – Black America Web

BEST DEAL UPDATE:

A Girl Wanted Shoes Marketed for Boys. See How Steph Curry Answered the Call

(Bloomberg) — NBA superstar Steph Curry and a young fan from California have pushed Under Armour to include girls in the marketing and sales of the basketball star’s signature shoe.

Until recently, Under Armour’s website listed the Curry 5 as an option in the menus for men, women and boys. Though the shoe’s sizes are the same for all kids regardless of gender, it wasn’t listed for girls.

Earlier this week, a 9-year-old California girl named Riley Morrison wrote an open letter to Curry, posted online by her father, in which she says she was disappointed to see the shoes were listed only for boys. “I know you support girl athletes because you have two daughters and you host an all-girls basketball camp,” she wrote. “I hope you can work with Under Armour to change this because girls want to rock the Curry 5’s too.”

Curry, who has been with the Baltimore-based company since 2013, was quick to respond. Thursday he posted a letter to Morrison on Twitter saying he’d spent the past two days working with the company to fix the issue. “We are correcting this now!” he said.

Under Armour said in a statement that it is “correcting a simple yet critical error.” The company will start listing the shoes under co-gender “Grade School” sizing, and will make the same change on boxes starting with the Curry 6s next year.

Curry drew praise earlier this year for hosting a free all-girls camp in California. In his letter he told Riley that he’d send her a pair of the current shoes, and that she would be one of the first kids to receive a pair of the next iteration. He also invited her to celebrate International Women’s Day with him next March.

Sports – TIME

ENTERTAINMENT DEAL UPDATE:

Holiday Party Sportcoats, UK Made Dress Shoes, & More – The Thurs. Men’s Sales Handful

Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend or a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below, plus bonus sales if need be. Included are a few picks worth pointing out. 

 

J. Crew: 35% off select w/ READYTOPARTY

J. Crew

That 35% off code makes me think of this:

Or, this.

Anyway, I do believe this is the first time this season that J. Crew’s party-ready, velvet shawl collar sportcoats have gone on sale. And there’s time to get em’ in the door and tailored before the mistletoe gets hung. Nice to see their Oar Stripe collection getting the cut as well. Big thanks to Brandon D. for the tip!

 

Massdrop: Made in the UK Loake Cap Toes – $ 239.99 FINAL ($ 360)

Made in the UK Loake Cap Toes

Goodyear welted, Made in the UK, and your choice of either a smooth leather sole, or a studded dainite sole for grip. It IS UK sizing though. So, most are gonna wanna size down a full size. Just be careful with that. Estimated ship date is December 19th. Final sale of course since it’s Massdrop.

 

GAP: 40% off Everything no exclusions w/ GIFT

GAP

Exclusion free? That means even their excellent, do anything casual – smart casual belts are getting the cut (leather accessories are usually excluded).

 

Allen Edmonds: $ 100 off Nomad Chelseas

AE Nomad Chelseas

The pearl clutching over the “new” Allen Edmonds has really hit a fever pitch. Its become a tiresome sport now, by some, to rag on what Allen Edmonds has been up to. Yes, some of it isn’t good. But that doesn’t mean the whole company is aflame. Yet. And I’ve had good luck with the Nomad collection. Super comfortable and wearable. And no, the “featherwelt” construction isn’t a cemented construction. It’s 360 Goodyear. Look, I hate to be an Allen Edmonds apologist. I don’t like everything the new owners (Caleres) are doing. But there’s still plenty to really like about AE. To me. For now.

 

Club Monaco: Extra 30% off Sale Items

Club Monaco

There doesn’t seem to be a ton in the Club Monaco sale section right now? But an extra 30% off is always appreciated. Some tempting cold weather stuff too, like that plaid coat and that wide color selection for their simple snap wrist gloves. No code needed here. Extra 30% off happens at checkout.

 

BONUS  Brooks Brothers: 30% off Select Sportcoats, 2 1818 suits for $ 1499

Big fan of Brooks Brothers sportcoats. Regent fit is more of an athletic fit, while the Milano is a true slim. Lots of exclusions, but there are some great looking jackets in there.

 

Also worth a mention:


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Monday Sales Tripod – Nordy Rack’s Clear the Rack, J. Crew Oar Stripe Shoes & Boots Sale, & More

The Thursday Handfuls are great, but what if Monday (or Tuesday) rolls around and there are a few sales that can’t wait til the weekend? You’ll find three of the best, with a few picks from each, to start the week below.

Editor’s Note: Yes we’re posting today. For the last few years we’ve sat the “Veterans Day” sales out because the term just sounds odd (much like Memorial Day sales). But after hearing from more than a few Vets, our silence has probably been misplaced. Word is even stores on Military bases have Veterans Day sales, so, while much of the world sees November 11th (and the observance around it) as a solemn occasion, here in the States it’s a bit different. Our policy on keeping quiet on Memorial Day won’t change, but for Vets day, we’ve been given the green light from you guys in the Military. Thanks for all that you do.

 

#1. Nordstrom Rack: Extra 25% off Clearance Items

Nordstrom Rack

Not only is Nordstrom proper running a big fall sale, their outlet branch Nordstrom Rack is running an extra 25% off clearance items. That means prices that have seriously bottomed out. No code needed here. Prices are as marked online. Sale ends today.

 

#2. Jomashop: Extra 25% off Select Citizen Watches w/ CTZ25

Citizen Watches

Not a bad price for the Nighthawk. And that Promaster certainly could have been included in our recent best desk divers round up.

 

#3. J. Crew: 30% off w/ FRIENDS (or 35% off for rewards members w/FAMILY)

J. Crew

Getting another mention because I don’t recall all of those shoes getting that discount last week when this sale launched? I don’t have any in-person experience with their new oar-stripe shoe collection, but they’re claiming Italian leathers and Goodyear Welts. Don’t forget that you can save 35% (instead of just 30%) by simply signing up for their free rewards program. Prices above reflect that 35% off.

 

BONUS  Lands’ End 50% off Full Price (no limit) w/ GOLD & 9624

I can’t recall the last time Lands’ End did something like this. Usually there’s a caveat of just one item getting the deal when they go half off. So half off all full price items? No limit? Not bad at all.

 

BONUS II  Nordstrom Fall Sale Still Going on

Full picks over here. And as always, everything ships and returns for free thanks to Uncle Nordy.

 

Also worth a mention…


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Business Casual Shoes

Business casual today is one of the most widely spread dress codes yet it’s often vaguely defined. There’s no point in following all the advice we provide in our videos if your company is extremely casual or extremely formal. You simply have to figure that out and the best way to do that is to observe what others are wearing or to ask your supervisor.

Well-made shoes from quality leather that is expertly polished can really upgrade a cheap suit, at the same time, a cheap pair of shoes can bring down a $ 5,000 bespoke suit.

Traditional White-Collar Environments

Because you’re in this traditional environment, chances are even business casual is more formal than in other places. Now that doesn’t mean that you should wear your black cap toe oxford because that would still be too formal and while it’s good with suits for business casual, you can be a bit more daring.

Brown Derby Shoes

For one, that means wearing a derby shoe. Derbys have an open lacing system and because of that, they’re always slightly less formal than an oxford. Also, I would stay clear of black derbys, instead I would opt for brown ones because brown is one of those shades that have just a hundred or thousand different colors with little variations and so you can never have enough brown shoes.

Cognac Brown Derby Full Brogue with 2 inch cuff

Cognac Brown Derby Full Brogue with 2 inch cuff

When I say brown I also mean red shoes, either reddish brown, burgundy, or oxblood. These are all fantastic colors for business casual even in a formal environment. My favorite derby shoe of mine comes in burgundy, it’s made of a Parisian last which is still quite elegant and so I can work with a suit or for business casual very easily.

Dark brown double monks paired with OTC socks from Fort Belvedere

Dark brown double monks paired with OTC socks from Fort Belvedere

Monk Strap Shoes

Alternatively, I could wear a burgundy monk strap, either in dark chocolate brown or maybe in red. Apart from that color scheme, I would not branch out into others because it would maybe be too casual for such a traditional environment. That means no gray shoes, no olive green shoes, stick with shades of brown and you’ll be good. Whether that’s a very dark brown, a medium brown, chestnut brown, or very light tan, is up to you but just keep in mind the lighter shade of brown, the more casual the shoe.

Flannel Pinstripe with red socks and suede chocolate double monks

Flannel Pinstripe with red socks and suede chocolate double monks

Likewise, the more broguing you have on the shoe, the more casual it is. Apart from the color, leather texture can also have a huge impact on how it’s perceived. For example, suede shoes are always softer and more casual. So for example, a dark brown suede shoe will look about as informal or casual as a regular polished leather tan shoe. Overall, it’s very important that your shoes work well not just with the rest of your outfit but with the socks and the pants in particular because they’re right next to your shoe.

Trade, Service, & Sales Industries

 

If you work in the service industry, in sales, or other trade positions, chances are you still have client contact and even though it’s not required of you to be well dressed, and sometimes it may come off as aloof or not appropriate, people will still judge you and if you look frumpy in sweatpants, people will think less highly of you, they will assume that you’re less competent than if you would wear let’s say a nice dress shirt with a pair of chinos.

Sneakers are not suitable for office wear

Sneakers are not suitable for office wear

If you are just at the office and never have client contact, your employer will likely have specific ideas of what’s acceptable and what’s not. If that’s not your office, I suggest to just stay clear of sneakers because they are quite casual and not work-appropriate shoes.

Go For Green

Oxford full brogue wingtip shoes

Oxford full brogue wingtip shoes with Fort Belvedere shoelaces

In this segment, one of my favorite colors is green which is highly underrated in menswear. Just think about adding a dark green oxford full brogue wingtip shoe in suede, it’s quite dark, people wouldn’t notice it right away yet it’s very different than a traditional dark brown wingtip oxford.

Olive green shoes with navy trousers

Olive green shoes with navy trousers and Fort Belvedere socks

Alternatively, a nice olive green with a beautiful patina on an elegant long last is really something that will provide a lot of contrast with the pants and slacks you’re wearing therefore, it’ll stand out in a way but it’s still subtle enough that it could be mistaken for a dark brown shoe at first glance.

Black "dress shoes" with blue soles

Black “dress shoes” with blue soles

Dress Shoe Trends

In recent years, dress shoe uppers with white rubber or sneaker soles have become extremely popular. Now personally, I don’t wear those because I either want to go casual and wear boat shoes or some sneakers or I wear leather dress shoes with a leather sole.

That being said, if you really dig the white rubber soles on a shoe, simply go for it, it’s something that you can wear, you can pull it off, it’s definitely more of a statement and I’ve even seen like red soles, yellow soles, or blue soles, so assume that people will judge you, they will make assumptions about you, and if you’re okay with that and you can wear it confidently, go for it. Of course, if you’re into classic men’s clothing and a traditionalist, this is not an option for you and in that case, stay with nicely polished leather shoes.

Rubber soled double monk strap

Rubber soled double monk strap

What about regular rubber soles? While they are acceptable and no one will ever call you out for it, personally, I much rather prefer leather soles. The sound they make, the way they roll on my foot, the way they feel, all of these are attributes I appreciate about the leather sole and I would not switch to a rubber sole.

So what do you do if it rains heavily you might wonder? Well, I have leather boots with rubber soles because they’re usually a little more casual and if it’s raining a lot, having a lace-up boot that is above my ankle always comes in handy to protect my feet from getting wet and cold.

Stand out in this pair of spectator shoes

Stand out in this pair of spectator shoes and Fort Belvedere socks

Choose Spectators

Apart from the shoes mentioned, you can also experiment with spectators in this segment which again are quite loud and traditionally, you have black and white ones which I think is not such a good combination because it is black, quite formal, white makes it informal.

square toed shoe

square-toed shoe

Instead, a brown and maybe off-white spectator or a navy with a gray spectator are really great. You could think about saddle shoes or just more unusual shoes. In general, though, I always suggest you stay clear of square-toed shoes, rubber soles or any kind of metalwork or reflective letters such as silver or gold because they’re not really part of a gentleman’s wardrobe.

This is too casual for business casual unless you work in a young tech company

This is too casual for business casual unless you work in a young tech company

Start-Up Environments

Frankly, the sky’s the limit and it can be anything from flip-flops over vans to very extraordinary Gucci loafers. Most startups won’t even have a dress code and so it’s all about what you’re comfortable with and about their culture and how you fit in.

Gucci Horsebit Loafer 1953

Gucci Horsebit Loafer 1953

Now, just because you can wear anything doesn’t mean everything has the same level of benefits for you. That being said, a nice pair of leather shoes or boots will always make you look more dapper and more grown-up than wearing some colorful sneakers or tennis shoes. In terms of colors or leather textures, really anything under the sun goes here. Even flip-flops or alpargatas are acceptable but frankly, I would simply not wear that but I guess I’m not telling you anything new here.

General Guidelines To Stay Stylish In Your Workplace

Don’t Invest In Shoes That Fuse Modern & Traditional Style

Why you might wonder? Well, matching together formal and informal elements will mean it’s a very trendy shoe and it may be great at the moment but it’s just a fashion and a fad and it will disappear in just a few years of time. So even if you have the highest quality leather shoe with a blue sole, chances are you will be tired of it in a year from now.

Ace Marks Penny Loafers

Ace Marks Penny Loafers

Instead, buy classically styled shoes and try to find something that works with your style. For example, you can go with medium brown penny loafers or you could go with cordovan tassel loafers. Alternatively, if you want even more casual, you can have suede green tassel loafers which are very casual yet still classically rooted.

Because it’s business casual, broguing or hole perforations or decorations are always welcome and an element you should incorporate if you want to tone things down and make them easier to look at and less formal.

Know When To Step Up Your Shoe Game

For example, think of important meetings with the board, maybe with their most important client, or the CEO who is known to be a clothes horse. In those situations, you definitely want to take it up a notch and put your best foot forward. During work-related events, conferences or symposia where you represent your company or maybe during a media interview, it really pays to have nice leather dress shoes in a darker color because they won’t stand out and people won’t just focus on your shoes but rather on what you say and the point you want to bring across. Likewise, if you’re interviewing for a position, it always pays to put on the proper interview attire.

A perfect outfit for a casual Friday at the office

A perfect outfit for the office

CONCLUSION

In summary, the dress-code business casual is not easy to master when it comes to shoes because it can mean different things at different times at different companies, however, using the three-tier approach of formal environment, less formal environment, and casual environment, it can really help you to nail it and put your best foot forward.

Last but not least, if you’re unsure whether if something is appropriate or not, chances are it is inappropriate. Otherwise, you wouldn’t have thought about it in the first place and if even that doesn’t help, always keep in mind being slightly overdressed is always favorable to being slightly underdressed.


Gentleman’s Gazette

MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!