Thanks to a Sell-Out Hoop Earring Style, Alison Lou Saw a Year of Major Change

Alison Chemla always knew that she wanted to start a diffusion line to accompany her fine jewelry brand, Alison Lou, but she also knew she didn’t want to do it in a way that merely imitated her jewelry in a cheaper fabrication. It took her about six years, but in the spring of 2018, Chemla had a …

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Paul Newman – Gentleman of Style

With an acting career that spanned six decades, Paul Newman was beloved by generations of admirers for his work on screen and stage. But besides his work as a thespian, Newman was also a family man, renowned philanthropist, race car driver–and style icon.

Paul Newman – Gentleman of Style

Paul Newman, bearded and bow-tied, in Venice (1963)
Paul Newman, bearded and bow-tied, in Venice (1963)

Paul Newman’s Early Years

Paul Newman as a teenager
Paul Newman as a teen. Note the collar bar.

Paul Newman was born in 1925, four years before the Great Depression, in Shaker Heights, Ohio. At a young age, he developed an interest in acting that would translate into a long and celebrated career. After serving in the military during World War II and seeing some action in the Pacific theater as an aircraft gunner and radioman, Newman moved to New York City with his first wife, Jackie Witte. There, he found roles on Broadway and television. In 1954, he made his first big-screen appearance in The Silver Chalice, a biblical epic, as the silversmith who made the Holy Grail, though the film was unsuccessful.

Paul Newman films in the 1950s
Two of Paul Newman’s films in the 1950s: one memorable, one forgettable

However, Newman’s failures would be few and far between; he would go on to rack up nine Academy Award nominations in his career, starting with his role as Brick Pollitt in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof (1958) opposite Elizabeth Taylor. Newman enjoyed his greatest fame as a film actor in the 1960s and 70s, when he became known not only for his steely blue eyes and overall good looks but for the consistently high quality of his acting.

Paul Newman flashing his famous blue eyes as the detective Harper

Many of his roles during this period were all-around tough guys who were also vulnerable and often tragic figures. Among his most memorable characters of this sort were “Fast” Eddie Felson, a pool shark looking to make it big in The Hustler (1961) and the title characters in films all coincidentally beginning with the letter H: the cattle rancher Hud (1963), Harper (1966)a hardboiled detective, and Cool Hand Luke (1967), in which he played a charismatic and inspiring prisoner with a spirit that refuses to be broken despite the degradation and abuses he faces at the hands of his captors. Newman received the Best Actor nomination for all of these roles with the exception of Harper.

Paul Newman in The Hustler
Paul Newman in The Hustler

Newman’s Later Career and Final Years

As Newman entered middle age, he began to be cast in the role of an older mentor for a younger leading man–which is to say, for characters played by Robert Redford–with the pair debuting in Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid (1969) followed by a turn in The Sting (1973), which represented Newman’s first foray into comedy.

Paul Newman (L) and Robert Redford in 1973's The Sting. Note the 1930's costumes, including fedoras and suits with checks and patterns.
Paul Newman (L) and Robert Redford in The Sting. Note the 1930’s costumes, including fedoras and suits with checks and patterns.

Newman’s career continued strong into the next decade when he was nominated for back-to-back OscarsAbsence of Malice (1981) and The Verdict (1982)–finally winning his first for Best Actor in The Color of Money (1986). In the movie, he reprised his role of “Fast” Eddie Felson 25 years after The Hustler. This is significant for showcasing Newman’s adaptability, going from playing the young upstart to the established veteran at age 61, this time opposite another newcomer destined for long-term Hollywood stardom: Tom Cruise. 

Paul Newman wearing a three-piece tweed suit in The Verdict

Though Paul Newman slowed down in terms of the volume of roles he undertook in his 60s and 70s, the quality of his work remained consistent and he earned yet another Academy Award nomination for Nobody’s Fool (1994), the last he would receive for Best Actor. Newman would go on to be nominated for Best Supporting Actor for Road to Perdition (2002), the last big-screen movie in which he would perform.

Paul Newman grey suit in The Color of Money
Paul Newman rocking monochrome gray (note the polo shirt) the way only a “Silver Fox” can do it in The Color of Money

Newman voiced the character of Doc Hudson in Disney/Pixar’s animated Cars (2006), a nod to his lifelong interest in racing. Although he quit smoking in the late ’70s, Newman was a heavy smoker for many years, like many of his generation, and he eventually succumbed to lung cancer in 2008, age 83. In his lifetime, he won one Oscar for acting and received two additional honors from the Academy, and also won three Golden Globes, a Screen Actors Guild Award, a Cannes Film Festival Award, and an Emmy, leaving behind an estate worth $ 600 million and an enduring legacy as an actor and style icon.

Newman Outside Acting – His Personal Life, Hobbies, and Philanthropy

Paul Newman and Joanne Woodward in 1958
Paul Newman and his wife Joanne Woodward

Throughout his life, Paul Newman was known as a family man–a father to six children and a devoted husband to fellow actor Joanne Woodward for fifty years until his death in 2008. He was also a philanthropist, founder of the Newman’s Own Foundation, which donated all after-tax profits from sales of Newman-branded food items to charity. The idea started because Newman would often bottle and give away his homemade olive oil and vinegar salad dressing to friends for Christmas. Just for fun, he decided to sell it in a local shop. When his dressing flew off the shelves, Newman eventually agreed to expand his line of products and market them more widely, including items like popcorn, fig bars (“Fig Newmans”), tomato sauce, and lemonade, with the stipulation that all proceeds be given away to various good causes. To date, the Newman’s Own organization has given away around half a billion dollars.

Some classic Newman's Own products
Some classic Newman’s Own products

Ever fun loving, Paul Newman was also an automobile racing enthusiast, as both a race-car driver himself and the owner of a racing team. His interest in the sport began in 1969 when he participated in racing school to prepare for a film called Winning about competing Indy race car drivers. In the movie, Newman does much of the actual full-speed driving himself, and this experience marked the start of what would become a passion of his for the rest of his life.

Newman on the set of Winning in 1969 [Photo Courtesy: Indianapolis Motor Speedway]

A Guide to Paul Newman’s Style

Newman at the airport, wearing a skinny tie and loafers

1. Ivy and Trad

In terms of style, Newman represented the next generation of actors after the “Golden Age of Hollywood” represented by the likes of Clark Gable, Cary Grant, Gary Cooper, and Humphrey Bogart. As such, his style during his prime years is less formal and traditional, in line with the fashions of the 1950s and ’60s. This comes across as a kind of effortless nonchalance, an authentic form of what we tout as sprezzatura today. Often this meant an American trad or aesthetic featuring a button-down collar, knitted tie, loafers, and sweaters. By dressing this way, Newman signaled he was indeed the American “New Man,” one who could remain stylish while also entirely modern. Indeed, he would continue in this style all of his life–more often than not, you’ll spot him wearing an OCBD in photos from his everyday life.

Paul Newman in a button down shirt and knitted tie
Newman showcasing a button-down shirt and narrow knit tie (from Vox Sartoria)

2. Sharp, but Dressed Down

Throughout his life, Newman would be remarkably consistent in defining his style as sharp yet dressed down. For instance, he’d roll up his sleeves, open his collar and keep his tie on–a knitted one–and managed to pull off the look without appearing sloppy. We see him wearing a polo shirt with a suit in the Color of Money image earlier on, or a turtleneck with a suit, a look that has become trendy again of late. Of course, it helped that he was fit and good looking, but we can still draw lessons from his approach.

Two variants of Newman’s dressed down style at different stages of his life; a knit tie is the common thread

3. Subdued Color Schemes

The capture from Harper earlier in the article hints at Newman’s penchant for monochrome, or at least more neutral, color schemes, even a black suit and tie. You’ll never see him wearing loud patterns, bright hues or anything over the top. The boldest he would go was the injection of bright blue–denim shirts or suits–because they accentuated his famous blue eyes. These can also go toward the monochrome as shown here and in the all-gray look from The Color of Money publicity photo. Clearly, Newman (and his stylists) knew how to coordinate his clothes to complement his physical features, including his eyes, and, as an older man, his gray hair.

Paul Newman in a blue turtleneck and suit.
Monochrome style: Newman dressing down a suit with a turtleneck sweater

4. Casual Wear

Paul Newman on the beach layering with a V-neck
Paul Newman on the beach layering with a V-neck

More often than not, Paul Newman wore casual clothes rather than suits or sport coats, but even casually dressed, he embodied effortlessness: he rarely, if ever, looked like he was trying. He might roll up the sleeves of his OCBD shirt or layer up with a sweater and always looked comfortable doing so; you’d be hard pressed to find a photo of him in his everyday life looking uneasy in whatever he was wearing. As such, Newman provides a model of how looking good doesn’t require you to be a dandy or sacrifice comfort.

Paul Newman in a classic white button down
Paul Newman in a classic white button down

5. Cool Sunglasses

Along with Steve McQueen, Newman pioneered the wearing of large-frame aviator sunglasses, a look he maintained throughout his life. He knew the shape suited his facial features and stuck with it. Today, the prevailing standard is to wear smaller, rounded tortoiseshell frames with tailored clothes, but Newman showed how a larger pair can make a statement and work well with suits. Perhaps it’s time for them to experience a resurgence in popularity.

Throughout his life, Newman favored large frames on his sunglasses

6. “Statement” Wristwatches

To say Paul Newman was a “watch guy” is an understatement, as you will notice his Rolex in nearly every photo. In fact, Newman is sometimes said to be single-handedly (pun intended) responsible for the growth of vintage Rolex sales. The story goes that, in 1968, Newman’s wife, Joanne Woodward, was looking for a personal gift that would convey her feelings for him and chose a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona, a race-car driver’s watch, engraved on the back with the words “Drive Carefully Me.” Newman wore the watch daily, including in the film Winning, until 1984 when he gave it to his daughter Nell’s boyfriend in a spur-of-the-moment gesture. The connection to racing, Newman and the well-known history of the watch added to its mystique and hyped the Daytona line, with this particular black-and-white dial becoming known as “The Paul Newman.” Today, these routinely sell for six figures and higher. In 2017, Newman’s actual personalized watch was auctioned off in 12 minutes at a record price of $ 17.8 million.

The famous Paul Newman Daytona watch
The famous Paul Newman Daytona watch

Conclusion – Paul Newman’s Ongoing Legacy

In 2019, there’s a generation of people who likely haven’t been introduced to Paul Newman and his works (yet!), but his legacy has endured more than a decade after his passing, not only in the films he left behind, but in his generous philanthropy and his influence on shaping men’s style through the late 20th century and beyond. Do you have a favorite Newman performance? Share with us in the comments below.


Gentleman’s Gazette

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Today in Movie Culture: ‘Avengers: Endgame’ 1980s Style, How ‘Captain Marvel’ Should Have Ended and More

Today in Movie Culture: ‘Avengers: Endgame’ 1980s Style, How ‘Captain Marvel’ Should Have Ended and More

Here are a bunch of little bites to satisfy your hunger for movie culture:

 

Alternate Timeline Movie of the Day:

Ready for Avengers: Endgame? Heading to the multiplex tonight to be one of the first to see it? Well, fans in another dimension have already been enjoying it for decades. Maybe. Darth Blender’s latest retro trailer redo shows us what Endgame would have looked like had it been produced 30 years ago, starring such 1980s icons as John Stamos and ALF:…

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Vanderpump Rules’ Brittany Cartwright Celebrates Her Wedding Shower Gatsby Style

Brittany CartwrightBrittany Cartwright and Jax Taylor’s wedding day is getting closer and closer, which means it’s bridal shower time!
Cartwright traveled back home to Kentucky over the weekend…

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Selena Gomez defies Coachella style rules with new look

Selena Gomez doesn’t follow trends, she sets them! Over the weekend, the 26-year-old singer surprised her loyal fan cult of 148 million Instagram followers with a surprise performance at the Coachella music fest in Palm Spring, California. DJ Snake closed out his Friday performance at the Outdoor Theatre with his hit single “Taki Taki” and…
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Aventer Enlists a Stylist Who Lost Her Legs to Style Her for an Event | Book of John Gray | OWN

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Nordstrom Spring 2019 Sale – Men’s Style Picks

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

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Nordstrom Spring Sale – Save Up to 50% off through 4/22

Surprise. It’s another sale from Nordstrom. Still nowhere near the frequency of other retailers or brands, but Nordstrom HAS been ramping up their sales in recent times. And that’s a good thing for those of us who love Nordstrom. Of all the department stores out there, Nordstrom might be the only one that not just gets it right, but gets it REALLY right. Great 3rd party selection, a huge variety of goods at various prices, and the free shipping and free returns always helps.

There’s over 4,000 items in this sale. Not as big as a half-yearly monster clearance. But it’s not some small thing either. Off we go with the picks…

 

Nordstrom Trim Fit Stretch Wool Tuxedo – $ 213.98 ($ 498)

Nordstrom Trim Fit Stretch Wool Tuxedo

I mean, I know it’s a notch lapel and most prefer peak or shawl when it comes to evening wear… but… nice price. Especially considering it ships and returns for free. Sold as separates, so don’t forget the pants.

 

Nordstrom Trim Fit Non-Iron Dress Shirt – $ 32.90 ($ 49.50)

Nordstrom

Staples. Well made staples. 200+ reviews and almost 5/5 stars. Great collars for going tieless too.

 

Nordstrom Trim Fit Linen Sport Coat – $ 124.49 ($ 249)

Nordstrom

100% linen and just butterfly lined in the back. This reminds me that I need to get crackin’ on the best warm weather sportcoats post.

 

adidas Samba OG Sneaker – $ 59.96 ($ 79.95)

adidas Samba OG Sneaker

Wait a minute. Burgundy accents. Gum sole. Perforations…. SOMEONE ALERT THE FRUGALMALEFASHION COMMUNITY. This here is an imposter of their one true lord!

 

Nordstrom Trim Fit Flat Front Stretch Wool Trousers – $ 49.75 ($ 99.50)

Nordstrom

How much? Under $ 50 for stretch wool dress pants? Not bad at all. Un-hemmed, so, you’ll need to have a tailor shorten them to your specified preferred break. Trim fit. Flat front.

 

Tissot Blue Dial Chrono – $ 262.50 ($ 350)

Tissot Blue Dial Chrono

Quartz of course, but Swiss made and from a well known, dependable brand. NOT small. 45mm in diameter. Repeat. FORTY FIVE.

 

Herschel Supply Co. Novel Offset Denim Duffel Bag – $ 42.49 ($ 85)

Herschel Supply Co. Novel Offset Denim Duffel Bag

Herschel’s famous “Novel” bag, complete with separate shoe compartment. Also available in a solid light gray if that’s more your speed.

 

Cole Haan Feathercraft Grand Derby – $ 142.50 ($ 180)

Cole Haan Feathercraft Grand Derby

Just 20% off, which ain’t much for Cole Haan, but… there’s something about them. Especially that gray suede option?

 

Marc New York Humboldt Quilted Jacket – $ 85.70 ($ 175)

Marc New York Humboldt Quilted Jacket

A standard quilted jacket with a surprise inside. Extra insulated thanks to a high-pile fleece liner vest that’s also detachable. Too hot one day? You can ditch it. How prudent.

 

Cole Haan Original Grand Wingtip – $ 112.50 ($ 150)

Cole Haan Original Grand Wingtip

Some people love these things. Some think they’re an abomination. I ain’t judging. At least, not this time. I swear Tony Kornheiser wears these a lot on the set of PTI. You can sorta see his kicks when they cut to a wide shot when Wilbon is on the road somewhere.

 

Original Penguin Track Jacket – $ 62.49 ($ 125)

Original Penguin Track Jacket

Speaking of PTI. Penguin Dance!

 

Bonobos Cotton & Linen Blend Henley – $ 48.98 ($ 98)

Bonobos Cotton & Linen Blend Henley

Half off is good. Very good! Fifty bones for a basic henley doesn’t feel as good, but, it’s Bonobos. And there are plenty of Bonobos fans out there. The fit, the finish, etc. More than a few colors to choose from here.

 

Saturdays NYC Norfolk Water Repellent Duffel Bag – $ 112.49 ($ 225)

Saturdays NYC Norfolk Water Repellent Duffel Bag

Not bad for a good sized duffel with a bit of saturated color. 20″W x 13″H x 9″D are the dimensions.

 

Nordstrom Tech-Smart Trim Fit Stretch Check Dress Shirt – $ 34.75 ($ 69.50)

Nordstrom

From their tech-smart line. 80% cotton, 13% polyester, 7% spandex engineered to be breathable and have plenty of stretch.

 

The Rail Everett Plain Toe Derby – $ 66.96 ($ 99.95)

The Rail Everett Plain Toe Derby

Those shoes sure are shoey! Plain toe derby = probably what you’d see in a dictionary if you looked up the word shoe. Maybe. Who knows. Depends on how fancy the illustrator was feeling that day. From a Nordstrom house line. For the less is more crowd. And warm weather, for some reason, makes simple bluchers like these look all the better.

 

1901 Slim Fit Sport Shirt – $ 29.75 ($ 59.50)

1901 Slim Fit Sport Shirt

Horizontal Stripes! Take it away SVP.

 

1901 Moro Bar Tack Leather Belt – $ 29.70 ($ 49.50)

1901 Moro Bar Tack Leather Belt

Like Nordstrom decided to jump on the GAP essential belt wagon. Also available in black. 1 1/4″ belt width; 1 3/4″ square buckle.

 

Todd Snyder x Timex Watches – $ 74 ($ 148)

Todd Snyder x Timex Watches

I don’t recall the mod or black jack getting to this price point in the past. And the leather straps? Had no idea that was even an option. Big thanks to Matt S. for the tip here.

 

Cole Haan GrandPro Tennis Sneaker – $ 97.50 ($ 130)

Cole Haan GrandPro Tennis Sneaker

Good grief there’s a lot of Cole Haan in this sale. Some suede, some perforated, some not.

 

Barbour Shadow Duffel Bag – $ 214.49 ($ 429)

Barbour Shadow Duffel Bag

Moon Mills UK made tweed makes up the exterior. No idea where the thing is constructed as a whole though. “Aye Lass! Where be me ear trumpet and moustache wax?” “Iz in yee plahd bahg ma Deer!” “AH! Fah fuk’s sake Lass. Yee right ahs YOOSuahlllll!”

 

Thomas and Vine Plain Toe Derby – $ 66.95 ($ 99.95)

Thomas and Vine Plain Toe Derby

A little funky (look at that lighter blue accent on the brown pair) but perhaps that’s what you’re going for at sixty seven dollars. Five different colors to pick from.

 

1901 Short Wings – $ 65.96 ($ 109.95)

1901 Short Wings

Inexpensive, versatile, short wings for spring. From Nordstroms’ younger leaning “1901” house brand.

 

Hart Schaffner Marx Classic Fit Plaid Wool Sport Coat – $ 247.49 ($ 495)

Hart Schaffner Marx Classic Fit Plaid Wool Sport Coat

100% true-blue worsted wool with a simple windowpane pattern. And? It’s made in Canada.

 

Jack Mason Nautical Chronograph – $ 109.97 ($ 275)

Jack Mason Nautical Chronograph

Yes, it’s a “fashion” brand, and not some heritage watchmaker. Doesn’t mean they can’t make a nice looking timepiece.

 

Cole Haan Harrison Grand Cap Toe Oxford – $ 139.90 ($ 220)

Cole Haan Harrison Grand Cap Toe Oxford

Entry level dress shoes. True oxfords with a cap toe. Probably won’t last you a lifetime, but with reasonable care, should last you a while. Well reviewed.

 

Lamarque Leather Racer Jacket – $ 279 ($ 525)

Lamarque Leather Racer Jacket

Not bad for a leather moto style jacket. Leather quality can really vary, so, give it a good strong look once it arrives. If it’s not up to snuff? Send it back. You can do that since it’s Nordstrom. For free.

 

Asics GEL-Kayano 25 Running Shoe – $ 119.95 ($ 159.95)

Asics GEL-Kayano 25 Running Shoe

Surprise! What the heck are these doing here? Because if you’re like me, and a bit more dump truck than gazelle, these could change your life. I’m a heavy striker. But I can be fast if I need to be fast. 200 lbs of men’s style blogger can get chuggin’ if need be, and these have helped protect my knees and back and all that jazz for a long time. I lift in these. I kickbox in these. I walk/run the dog in these. Worth every penny. And the new design (especially the white/gray/black) don’t look like hot baby poo when paired up with some warm up pants and a decent track jacket.

 

Nordstrom Rack: Numerous Hamilton Automatics all for 40% – 50% off:

Hamilton

Why the Nordstrom Rack mention? Because there are a LOT of watches in this Spring sale. Lots of Hamiltons. For around 25% – 30% off. But there’s still a ton of really attractive Hamilton autos on Nordstrom Rack for, wait for it, 50% off. So, before you fall in love with a Hammy on the Nordy main site, maybe check out The Rack?

The Nordstrom Spring Sale is set to run through 4/22. What’d we miss? Send in any tips you have on any further steals in this Nordstrom Spring Sale to joe@dappered.com.


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The Components of Your Signature Style

The most important trend of our fashion era is Individualism. Fashion is a melting pot of sartorial choices, trends are no longer seasonal, and fads no longer exist. Fashion is more diverse, and more accepting than ever of all sorts of styles. Trends are becoming harder to define, and at some point they will be irrelevant. That’s why developing and milking the signature components of your style is as current, modern, and 2019 as it gets.

A signature style is a set of sartorial preferences that are recognizably “your look” and consistently represented in your outfits. They make your style distinctive. They amp up the PERSONAL in personal style, and make your outfits your own. A signature style can evolve over time, but might have elements that stay the same for most of your life.

A signature style is not to be confused with a style rut. When you’re in a rut you’re bored, tired and unhappy with your style and desperately want to change things up. The components of a signature style continue to spark joy, so you keep them anchored in your look for a long period of time. There is no need to change up your signature style unless you’re tired of it.

A signature style develops quite intuitively. Often it’s a case of building onto the same set of sartorial preferences organically over time until they become a strong part of your style. You can nurture a signature style so that it’s an overt part of your look, or you can keep things subtle. It’s all good as long as your signature style makes you happy.

Developing a signature style is an exercise in learning and self-discovery that has practical benefits. Style is a celebration of individuality that emanates from within, so the more you are in tune with yourself and your needs, the happier you will be with your signature style. The more closely your signature style reflects you as a person, the easier it is to maintain, and sport with confidence and verve. Identifying your signature style helps you edit and review your wardrobe, and plan future purchases so that you shop for the right items.

This type of self-assessment can be confidence-boosting and fun, so give it a go in the comments section. I’ll go first. Here’s how I describe my signature style:

Short blonde pixie, statement eyewear, white footwear, white pearls, and flats are probably the most distinctive parts of my style. White jeans, white tops, solid items in sour brights, colourful clothing combinations, Furla handbags, lace, gold watches, denim jackets, high necklines, longer sleeves, midis, naked nails, and a good dose of trendy classic are the other elements that I consider “signature” to my style. They anchor my look and make me happy. All of that is remixed with a strong desire to emulate a polished appearance with movement, and create dressier crisp outfits with ample structure that are still soft and pretty.

Over to you. Describe the elements that are signature to your style in the comments section. If you’re unsure, feel free to post the question on our forum and we’ll get you started. I’m excited to hear you describe your signature styles. Don’t be shy.


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Dress For A Role: Style Lessons From A Costume Designer

Most people need years to build a good wardrobe. Keri Langerman does it in a matter of hours. On a Friday night, Langerman, a costume designer based in New York City, got a call from her director about a project she’s working on. An actor was just cast for the leading male role and was scheduled to fly out to see her the following morning. Langerman needed to pull his entire film wardrobe together, less than 24 hours after confirming his identity, and she didn’t have any information about his sizing.

“You’d think you’d be giving this kind of information, but it’s not always provided for these sorts of projects,” she laughs. “When that happens, I look up photos of the person online and try to guess their size. Then I buy things that are a little bigger, with the expectation I’ll need to tailor them down later. It’s like trying to hit a bullseye — you’re more likely to hit your target if you shoot a million arrows. That way, when the moment comes, you can pull out fourteen cinematic outfits.”

Langerman has been working as a costume designer for over a decade. She’s dressed leading Hollywood men such as Robert Redford, Jude Law, and Jeff Goldblum. She’s worked on the costume teams for Moonrise Kingdom, Inside Amy Schumer, and most recently, Vox Lux. Each project comes with its own challenges, like having to dress an invisible body, but her process always starts the same way. She reads a script for emotional language and keys in on the mood, and then tries to reflect those tones through her costume choices. As she puts it, it’s about making the characters memorable for an audience. “There’s a lot of mood boarding,” she explains of the process. “We’ll research photos, both historical and contemporary, and try to express a character’s mood through their clothes. Sometimes it’s about staying true to a historical era, but sometimes it’s also just about expressing an idea.”

Langerman’s last film project, Vox Lux, is about a character named Celeste (played by Natalie Portman) who survives a high school shooting in Staten Island, where the shooter leaves a sickening and macabre arrangement of the dead and wounded. Celeste writes a eulogistic song with her sister (Stacy Martin), which becomes a national sensation, catapulting her into fame and, later, transforming her into a rockstar. The film alludes to real-world tragedies, such as the Columbine High School massacre and 9/11 terrorist attacks. And as Celeste grows into her role as a celebrity, she’s increasingly portrayed as impulsive, unstable, fragile, angry, and trapped at the emotional age when she first became famous. The film is dark and swirling — and the costumes underscore those emotions.

 

 

“The film is divided into two acts, and while the acts are rooted in a certain time period, the director and I wanted the clothes to be more about the film’s mood,” says Langerman. “So we were careful to choose outfits that felt relevant to the period, but weren’t necessarily a statement about the period. We wanted simple, classic silhouettes, but lots of darker, moodier colors.”

For the first act, Jude Law, who plays Celeste’s hovering manager, wears five-pocket jeans and Members Only style jackets — a racing style that’s distinguished by its narrow collar band, epaulets, and knitted trims. The style was popular in the 1980s among music fans and club goers. “For the first act, a lot of Jude’s clothes came from eBay, Etsy, and consignment stores,” says Langerman. “We wanted a Members Only style, but not an actual Members Only jacket. Basically, something that someone back then may have worn if they couldn’t afford the actual brand. Then we pulled that same silhouette through to the second act, where he’s wearing a Valstarino jacket and Eidos trousers. We wanted to keep the silhouette the same to remind the audience that he was still the same character — his career just advanced, so he had a bit more money and dressed up a little more. It was a conscious decision to not completely change his wardrobe, but to just change the color and quality of his clothing.” (Notably, Law’s monochromatic style, pictured above, was inspired by Cary Grant’s famous gray flannel suits).

I ask Langerman if there are things she keeps coming back to when dressing male characters — tried and true items that seem to look good on everyone. Aside from dark jeans, she struggles to find a theme. “I think almost anyone can look good in a Valstarino,” she says. “I’m currently working with Lakeith Stanfield right now and I would love to see him in a Valstarino, but I don’t want to repeat the same outfits. I want to stay true to the character and the script. Sometimes you think ‘oh, this brand works and I love this shoe,’ but you want each character to be special.”

Langerman pulls a surprising amount, however, from in-the-know menswear brands. Jude Law, as mentioned, was dressed in a Valstarino and pair of double-pleated Eidos trousers (the second of which were specially made for the film by the Isaia factory). Jason Segal wore a double-breasted, shawl collar cardigan from Inis Meain for his role in The Discovery (“I was looking for sweaters that were rich in color and texture; pieces that were cozy, breathable, and easy to wear. I considered putting him in a sports coat but when I found this cardigan I knew it made more sense for his character,” she wrote on Instagram). And Langerman put Robert Redford in Epaulet’s trousers. “We wanted a custom order, but it was a four-week turnaround and we only had one week,” she says. “But I knew it had to be those pants — they had the perfect rise and cut throughout the leg, and the fabric was just great, so we had our tailor do the alterations on-site.”

How does a costume designer know about these obscure brands? Langerman says she follows StyleForum and certain online boutiques, such as No Man Walks Alone. The forums give her an important consumer perspective, so she knows people’s experiences with clothes and doesn’t see things through rose-tinted lookbook glasses. “A lot of this is about finding people who know more than me and have great taste,” she admits. “Then mix it all together for a character. When I’m dressing a man for a film, I also like to dig a little deeper to reach that style enthusiast who may be in the audience. But it’s a constant process and I’m always searching. Sometimes I fall asleep scrolling through my phone.”

 

 

How to Dress Yourself as a Character

As a costume designer, Langerman knows how to communicate a character’s story and personality through their clothes. That skill isn’t limited to just dressing actors for films and TV shows, however, it can be pulled through into everyday life. We ask Langerman how she feels about certain style-related topics.

Dressing for Body Type and Skin Tone

“It helps to think about your body type when dressing, but I also think it depends on what you’re dressing for. Dressing for your body type can mean one thing for the office, but another thing for weddings or weekends. In the US, there are certain rules for how you can look what we consider to be traditionally ‘better,’ whether that means looking slimmer, taller, or more ‘masculine.’ There are certainly options out there that will check all those boxes, but some of the most stylish men also don’t wear traditional silhouettes at all. Those are more avant-garde aesthetics, but they may reflect the person better.

It’s the same with skin tone. Generally, you want a bit of contrast between your clothing and skin tone. That will make you look what’s traditionally considered to be ‘good.’ However, I love a good monochromatic look. I love wearing a t-shirt in a similar color as my skin tone, which most will say ‘wash me out.’ But that might be closer to how I want to present myself for a day — it shows how I’m feeling and who I am. I think the rules are good if you want a traditional look, but you can’t pin it to just rules.”

Developing a Personal Sense of Style

“I think the key is to focus more on how clothing makes you feel, rather than just how it makes you look. Wear clothes that you feel represent a certain side of you. As human beings, we have so many different sides, so you can wear a beautifully tailored suit to work, but also hemp pants on the weekend if that’s who you want to be. I can tell immediately when something works on someone at a fitting — their mood and posture change, there’s a hop in their step. Sometimes I think people get too hung up on, ‘oh I can’t wear green’ or ‘that’s not my style.’ But the more forgiving you can be about how you look, the more you’ll allow yourself to experiment with different brands and silhouettes, which in turn will allow your wardrobe to feel more personal and about you. I find that’s when people are happiest with their wardrobe.

 

 

You also have to give things a chance. Whether you’re an actor or not, I think it’s difficult to change your silhouette and not feel like you’re ‘wearing a costume.’ Sometimes it takes a while to acclimate to a fuller jacket or a slimmer pair of jeans. At fittings, I’ll sometimes tell an actor to take a walk around the room before making a decision on something. You have to give something a chance to settle in. Just know that you almost always have to get things tailored. Tailoring is not expensive, you can go to your local dry cleaner.”

Developing an Aesthetic Vocabulary

“I think you have to carve time into your life and put effort into it. I think sometimes we have unrealistic expectations that just because something looks a certain way on a model, that’s how it’s going to look on us. Part of this is about processing someone’s body and personality through clothes, and there’s no one size fits all. Dedicate some time to going out and trying on different clothes, or ordering things online and be ready to return them. Even for actors, just because something works on a model doesn’t mean it works for someone on-screen. Until you try something on, everything is hypothetical.

It can help to pay attention to blogs, Pinterest, Instagram, etc. For me, it’s about finding new images and paying attention to how people are wearing things. Save photos you find to be inspirational. When you see how people are breaking the rules, you realize there’s no wrong way to do it.”

Dressing as a Character 

“I think it helps to first break your wardrobe out for the various parts of your life. You can have your work wardrobe, weekend wardrobe, formal wardrobe, etc. If your wardrobe isn’t connected to a certain part of your life, you’re never going to wear it. Here in New York, our overcoats are like our cars in the winter time, so you know you need a good overcoat. This also helps you figure out what kind of personas you want to project for different settings.

Next, think about what kind of adjectives you would want someone to use when describing you. Would it be fashionable, avant-garde, or traditional? Then, when you look at a new piece of clothing, do those adjectives come to mind? If they don’t, are there ways you can wear it to help communicate those ideas? I think this can seem so basic, but when you’re out shopping for clothes, it can be easy to get led astray with all the options that simply ‘look good’ that you forget how to communicate those messages. Think about how you would want to be dressed if you were a leading man in a film.”

The post Dress For A Role: Style Lessons From A Costume Designer appeared first on Put This On.

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FASHION UPDATE:

Spring / Summer Temptation: New Affordable Men’s Style Arrivals for 2019

Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Here’s why.

And here’s one: You know that confident feeling you get when wearing your favorite suit? Imagine feeling that way about your finances. Personal Capital tracks your net worth and spending for free, so you know where your savings stand and how your investments are performing. Get started here.

Spring/Summer 2019 – The Best Looking New Arrivals in Men’s Style

Those piles of parking lot snow should be starting to whither. Winter clearance events for retail are coming to an end. That means new, warm-weather arrivals are starting to show up in store, and online. Spring/Summer 2019 seems to feature more color, more patterns, more… more. But since this website bangs the drum for less is more, we’ll try and keep from getting too far out of control. Know that for many of these items, prices are sure to come down with sales & promos once the snow starts to melt.

 

Bonobos Unconstructed Italian Wool Blazers – $ 320 – $ 360 w/ ECLIPSE20 ($ 400 – $ 450)

Bonobos Unconstructed Italian Wool Blazers

Up there in price for sure, but Bonobos knows what they’re doing when it comes to these minimally lined, lightweight, wear it in everything from 10 degrees to 110 degrees sportcoats. Plenty of colors and patterns to pick from. Totally unlined in the back. Hopsack, looser weave wool is nice and airy. Super easy to dress up or down. Available in slim or standard fits.

 

Target Goodfellow & Co. Short Sleeve Henley Shirt – $ 12.99

In Review: Target’s Goodfellow & Co Spring 2019 | Dappered.com

Well made, soft cotton, and plenty of colors to pick from. Part of our round up of what Target’s Goodfellow & Co line has to offer for the warmer weather. The cotton is lightweight but doesn’t feel cheap, and the color options are all pretty nice.

 

Timex Allied Coastline 43mm Fabric Strap Watch – $ 99

Timex Allied Coastline 43mm Fabric Strap Watch

Nautical, seashore style without the “would you like to see my beach house?” price. 100m water resistance. Functional top bezel. (Yay!) Brass case so there should be some decent heft to it.

 

EXPRESS Piped Performance Polo – $ 49.90

EXPRESS Piped Performance Polo

The stretchy, super comfy, mostly cotton EXPRESS performance polos have gotten the piped treatment for Spring 2019. Not bad at all. Spendy from the jump, but… this is EXPRESS. There’s always another 40% off train a comin’.

 

Nodus Retrospect II Diver – $ 400 – $ 450*

Nodus Retrospect II Diver

Good gracious, that’s something. Designed and assembled in Los Angeles. Has a Miyota heart beating inside. More than a couple dial colors to pick from. Inward sloping bezel. I’m a big fan of my own personal Avalon (that cushion case speaks to me) but this? This is a heck of a do-anything, all purpose, classic but not boring dive watch. *Note that they are currently taking $ 200, non refundable deposits for pre-orders. Remaining balance will be charged right before shipping, which is expected to be early April.

 

Suitsupply Havana Fit Linen Blend Sportcoats – $ 399 – $ 499

Suitsupply Havana Fit Linen Blend Sportcoats

The Havana fit in linen or a linen blend is perfect for this time of year. Not ridiculously close to the body, but still tailored looking. There’s just enough room for ventilation and to breathe. Ships and returns for free since it’s Suitsupply.

 

Allen Edmonds Nomad Bucks – $ 345

Allen Edmonds Nomad Bucks

I really like the “Nomad” line. I know the new ownership at AE has NOT done everything right. Far from it. But these are still Goodyear welted, still made in Port Washington WI, and they’re darn comfortable. Full review of their chukkas from this line can be found here.

 

Nordstrom 1901 Marled Slub Polo – $ 49.50

Nordstrom 1901 Marled Slub Polo

Nordstrom is making a button down collar polo these days? Excellent. A little on the spendy side though. Slub fabric. From one of their younger leaning house brands, 1901. Ships and returns for free since it’s Nordstrom.

 

Spier & Mackay Tropical Weight Suits – $ 348

Spier & Mackay Tropical Weight Suits

Excited about these, but they do have a drawback: The jackets are fully lined. So if you’re a super sweater of a man, then you might want to steer clear. Lined in Bemberg though, so it’ll breathe noticeably better than stuffy polyester lined suits. Lighter weight tropical wool does help too in the warmer months. And hey, thankfully they’re selling the pants as separate stand-alones if you just need some trousers.

 

GAP Cotton/Linen Khakis – $ 41.97 w/ STYLE ($ 69.95)

GAP Cotton/Linen Khakis

Why GAP insists on calling these just “linen” khakis, when they’re 63% cotton and 37% linen, and most colors aren’t khaki, is beyond me. But I’m just some schmuck on the internet. Nice pants though.

 

Banana Republic Nyle Italian Lace-Up Oxford – $ 94.80 w/ STYLE ($ 158)

Banana Republic Nyle Italian Lace-Up Oxford

Gray suede bucks. Perfect for warm weather, but you can even wear them in cooler temps with jeans. Does go up for 40% off codes with some regularity.

 

Relwen Utility Trap Blazer – $ 328

Relwen Utility Trap Blazer

Y’know how a lot of fall/winter sportcoats can deftly walk that line between blazer and outerwear? That doesn’t happen all that often in spring. Until now. Also available in navy or gray. Ships and sold by Huckberry.

 

Goodthreads  7″ Inseam Lightweight Oxford Short – $ 29.19

Goodthreads  7" Inseam Lightweight Oxford Short

Oxford cloth is certainly a favorite warm weather fabric. Especially for shorts and pants. Thirty bucks doesn’t seem too bad, especially considering they ship fast and free thanks to the Prime service.

 

Banana Republic Tipped Luxe Touch Polos – $ 29.70 w/ STYLE ($ 49.50)

Banana Republic Tipped Luxe Touch Polos

There are two kinds of people in this world. First, those that love Banana Republic’s smooth as glass, cotton, luxe touch fabric. And second, those who seem to shrink these damn things in the wash/dryer, and thus, HATE Banana Republic’s luxe touch fabric. If you are in the latter camp, don’t buy these.

 

J. Crew Cotton/Linen Unstructured Suit Jacket – $ 168

J. Crew Cotton/Linen Unstructured Suit Jacket

Not all of J. Crew’s new spring arrivals look like they’ve fallen out of a norm-core lookbook. This jacket is loud but not tinnitus inducing. The top half of one of their newest “un-suits.” So unconstructed and unlined. Wearing it WITH the matching pants might cause some ringing in the ears.

 

Cole Haan GrandPro Turf Sneaker – $ 150

Cole Haan GrandPro Turf Sneaker

Spendy, but purposefully built with “Grand.OS” technology that specifically helps deliver arch support. Arch support. In a retro styled sneaker. Imagine that. Currently efforting an in person and maybe a giveaway.

 

Target Goodfellow & Co Hennepin Slim Fit Chino Pants – $ 22.99

In Review: Target’s Goodfellow & Co Spring 2019 | Dappered.com

A true slim. Gonna be too slim for some. If you can go to Target and try several pairs on, you’ll probably be good to go. Size shown above is a 32×32.

 

Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronograph – $ 2195

Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronograph

Ayeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!! But man. That price. Should come down quite a bit once it hits gray market dealers. IF it ever hits gray market dealers. And hey, it’s fun to dream, isn’t it?

 

B.R. Silk Cotton Cashmere Sweater Polo – $ 47.70 w/ STYLE ($ 79.50)

BR Silk Cotton Cashmere Sweater Polo

These can be super dressed up or down. Worn with jeans when it’s cool to cold, with golf pants or even those performance wool trousers when it warms up a little. Come to think of it, those wool pants + one of these sweater polos would make a really smart (but maybe a little too retro) golfing outfit.

 

Suitsupply Grey Italian Suede Sneakers – $ 179

Suitsupply Grey Italian Suede Sneakers

Whoooo spendy. But hey, if you’re out looking for some gray colorblock sneakers, here they be. Ships and returns free since it’s Suitsupply.

 

J. Crew Factory SLIM Pocket Tee – $ 15ish

J. Crew Factory SLIM Pocket Tee

Cheap. True slim fit. Four colors to pick from and that pocket breaks up the large swatch of chest fabric just enough. Cotton/poly gives it some softness and a bit of a marled look.

 

Spier & Mackay Acetate Round Sunglasses – $ 68

Spier & Mackay Acetate Round Sunglasses

Really nice. Not polarized, but the feel and finish is really quite impressive. Hits that rare mid-price-point between gas station garbage shades and super luxury sunglasses. Full review here.

 

Banana Republic Core Temp Chinos – $ 58.80 w/ STYLE ($ 98)

BR Core Temp Chinos

So good. Lightweight, breathable, and absurdly comfortable. Full review here. Currently only offered in their Aiden Slim fit. Which leaves some of us in the athletic booty camp feeling a bit squeezed. But they’re stretchy enough that even if you are on team caboose, you still might find these to be a favorite.

 

Nordstrom The Rail Payson Chelsea Boot – $ 89.95

Nordstrom The Rail Payson Chelsea Boot

Spring/Summer and boots don’t often go together. These do. Sandy suede color. Cheap. Ships and returns for free.

 

Amazon Goodthreads Lightweight Slub Polo – $ 20

Amazon Goodthreads Lightweight Slub Polo

Serious potential here. Tons of colors, cheap, lightweight and slubbed. Casual due to that lightweight, slub fabric, but some of us dig that. Ships and returns free with Prime.

 

J. Crew Factory Chunky Cardigan Sweater in Marled Cotton – $ 60ish

J. Crew Factory Chunky Cardigan Sweater in Marled Cotton

Will look great with chinos or shorts, and a t-shirt or short sleeve henley on a cool summer evening. Something to pack for those trips to the beach / lake.

 

Jack Erwin Driving Loafer – $ 115

Jack Erwin Driving Loafer

Still handcrafted in Portugal. Not bad for $ 115. TONS of colors to pick from, and that familiar, low profile and nubby sole (and heel) of a true driving loafer.

 

Spier & Mackay Warm Weather Sportcoats – $ 228 – $ 298

Spier & Mackay Warm Weather Sportcoats

From cotton chino to linen silk blends, Spier does warm weather seasonality really well. Of course, they do cold weather seasonality really well too, but, wear one of their tweed numbers in the summer heat and you might end up in a puddle of your own sweat. Anyway, back to the warm weather sportcoats. Lots of fabric options. Lots of colors. Lots of patterns and textures too.

 

B.R. Supima Cotton Button-Shoulder Sweater – $ 59.10 w/ STYLE ($ 98.50)

BR Supima Cotton Button-Shoulder Sweater

The buttons are inspired by fisherman’s/sailor sweaters from the past. They used to have higher necks on them, and the buttons would help guys at sea button them all the way up to keep the sea spray out, but could be unbuttoned later for on/off. Price above reflects a pretty standard 40% off discount.

 

Suitsupply Nubuck Duffel – $ 399

Suitsupply Nubuck Duffel

Travel season is coming up fast. And honestly, not a bad price for an all nubuck leather duffel.

 

UNIQLO – AIRism Button Down Collar Polo Shirts – $ 29.90

Dappered.com

A favorite. Shown above is last year’s shirt-collar version, but you get the idea. A deep-ish, three button placket, and button down collar points = a polo collar that’s smart and in control. Not one that’s curling and flopping about as the day wears on.

 

Gustin Made in Italy White/Green Sneakers – $ 169

Gustin Made in Italy White/Green Sneakers

A total splurge, and twice as expensive as Stan Smiths, but Gustin knows what they’re doing when it comes to making quality products for a fair price. The catch? It’s a pre-order system, so you’ll have to be patient. Italian Nappa leather. Cream Margom Sole. Lined in Calfskin.

 

J. Crew Factory Oxford Cloth Pants in Slim or Straight Fit – $ 35ish

J. Crew Factory Oxford Cloth Pants

Again, oxford cloth shorts and pants are quite appreciated when it heats up. Yes, since they’re all cotton they tend to soak up and hold onto moisture. But they’re just so light and airy that unless you sweat like a beast, you should be okay. Depending on the temp and humidity of course.

 

Spier & Mackay Button Down Collar Polos – $ 30

Spier & Mackay Button Down Collar Polos

For those who prefer their polos 100% cotton with great buttons and a collar that won’t stray. More than a few color options to pick from.

 

Made in the USA Flint & Tinder 365 Pants – $ 98

Made in the USA Flint & Tinder 365 Pants

Because jeans are about to get kinda hot. These? Not so much. Perfectly weighted and stretch infused cotton 5-pockets designed specifically for year round wear. Full review here in case you missed it.

 

Todd Snyder Fine Cord Stripe Suit – $ 676

Todd Snyder Fine Cord Stripe Suit

Made in Canada, Italian cotton fine cord with a touch of stretch. An investment, but it has a lot of things going for it.

 

Spier & Mackay Cotton/Linen Dress Trousers – $ 128

Spier & Mackay Cotton/Linen Dress Trousers

Side tabs! Feel free to ditch that heavy leather belt (or heck, even a lightweight belt) in favor of side tabs. 55% Cotton / 45% linen blend fabric. Sharp as hell. Lots of colors.

 

J. Crew Unstructured Blazer & Pants in Stretch Cotton – $ 266

Dappered.com

Available in either stretch cotton (as shown above) or a cotton/linen blend. Nice to see that despite all the turmoil, J. Crew is still making these popular “un-suits” for the spring and summer months. Multiple colors available too. Full review here.

 

TheTieBar Pointed Tip Knit Ties – $ 25

TheTieBar Pointed Tip Knit Ties

Love the knit tie thing but don’t like the “it’s hip to be square” blunted end of most? Then TheTieBars limited run of tip-knit ties are your jam. Still just twenty five bucks. Knit silk, and finished with a more pleasing to the eye (to some) point.

 

B.R. Arley Suede Work Boot – $ 106.80 w/ STYLE ($ 178)

B.R. Arley Suede Work Boot

Yes you can wear boots in warmer weather. Just favor less clunk, and more suede. And that applies here. Full review can be found this way.

 

Spier & Mackay Stretch Wool Suits – $ 348

Spier & Mackay Stretch Wool Suits

98% wool and 2% lycra in a couple of spring-appropriate shades. Still half canvas. Still one of the best values in the suiting business.

 

WP Standard Boxcar Duffel – $ 400

WP Standard Boxcar Duffel

More travel gear here. WP Standard is the real deal. And while $ 400 is no small amount of money, the look and feel of their leather, not to mention the smart construction, really is something else.

 

Suitsupply Italian Wool Blend Raincoat – $ 499

Suitsupply Italian Wool Blend Raincoat

A lightweight, almost suiting-fabric 3-season raincoat is pretty much ideal. It ain’t cheap, but ideal rarely is. 80% wool and 20% poly. Fabric is from Italy. Ships and returns for free being that it’s Suitsupply.

 

Bonobos Lightweight Golf Pants – $ 78.40 w/ ECLIPSE20 ($ 98)

Bonobos Lightweight Golf Pants

A Bonobos tech pant that doesn’t start north of $ 150? Be still. My heart. Anyway, still a splurge, but try the code ECLIPSE20 at checkout for 20% off. All poly/nylon blend here. So don’t be shocked if they “swish swish” when you walk.

 

J. Crew Diagonal-Stitch Rope Cotton Shawl-Collar Cardigan – $ 140

J. Crew Diagonal-Stitch Rope Cotton Shawl-Collar Cardigan

The heavier sweaters from winter might be stashed in cedar for the time being, but that doesn’t mean you won’t need a sweater or two around the house for when it unexpectedly cools off. Should go on sale with the frequent codes and promos that J. Crew runs.

 

Nordstrom Roger Monk Strap Derby – $ 124.95

Nordstrom Roger Monk Strap Derby

From their affordable, but still pretty nice house brand. Should look quite good with all manners of lightweight suiting.

 

Banana Republic Heritage Slim Linen Suit Jacket & Pant = $ 275 w/ STYLE ($ 458)

BR Heritage Slim Linen Suit

Price above reflects a 40% off discount, but do know that these suit separates get excluded quite a bit. Once upon a time BR would take an otherwise nice, airy, 100% linen suit like this… and fully line the jacket. But not anymore! Someone got in the ear of whoever was in charge of suit construction and said “hey, it sorta defeats the purpose of an airy, breathable summer suit, to fully line the jacket.” Sweat city people. But not here. This is the way to do it. Just butterfly lined in the back. True slim fit.

 

J.C.F. Slim Thompson Double-Breasted Blazer in Flex Chino – $ 130ish

J.C.F. Slim Thompson Double-Breasted Blazer in Flex Chino

I mean… it’s possible of course. But. Well. YOU FIRST.

Did we miss something warm-weather specific that should have made this list? Send those tips into: joe@dappered.com.


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

ICYMI: What We’re Buying This Season, Victoria’s Secret Doesn’t Get It & Seoul Street Style

Sure, we’re all glued to our phones/tablets/laptops/watches that barely tell time, but even the best of us miss out on some important #content from time to time. That’s why, in case you missed it, we’ve rounded up our most popular stories of the week to help you stay in the loop. No need to thank …

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Fashionista

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The Non-Neutral Neutrals of Your Style

Neutrals are serene colours that go with everything. They are typically less intense and less saturated than other colours. Black, shades of grey, and shades of white are the most popular neutrals. Then there’s shades of dark blue, blue denim, dark brown, taupe, shades of caramel, and shades of beige. Shades of olive are also often considered neutral.

Most wardrobes have a neutral component, because neutrals are grounding, versatile and soothing. It can be larger or smaller depending on your sartorial preferences. Some wardrobes are completely neutral, and others extremely colour-rich. It’s all good as long as you wear colours that you like and make you happy.

If you wear a large assortment of non-neutrals like I do, you’ll find that some of them are extremely versatile and function somewhat like a neutral. Tomato red and blush pink are the non-neutral neutrals of my style, and they work well together. To my eye, tomato red is a magical colour that works with every neutral and non-neutral. Blush pink is not far behind. I also find citron versatile, but not as versatile as a very bright orange-y red and soft pastel pink.

My clients run the gamut. Some with black/grey/white wardrobes think of dark blue and shades of brown as non-neutrals, which is extreme. Others with strong neutral wardrobes think of burgundy as their non-neutral neutral. Those into jewel tones find shades of purple and teal versatile and neutral. And those into earth tones regard shades of mustard, cinnamon, and burnt orange as their non-neutral neutrals.

Over to you. Which non-neutrals function as neutrals for your style?


YouLookFab

BEST DEAL UPDATE:

Style a Short Cardigan As a Pullover

If you fasten all or most of the buttons, a short cardigan can function as a top in much the same way as a pullover. The collection below showcases a range of short button-through cardigans worn as pullovers.

Silhouettes vary from short to very short. Necklines vary from crew and slash, to V-neck and boat necks. Fits vary from tailored and fluid, to oversized. Welts can be tapered and fitted, or wide and boxy. Gauges run from dainty and fine to super chunky. Sleeve lengths run from short to long.

You can wear a buttoned-through cardigan untucked, like most of the examples shown. Or you can tuck the fine-gauge versions. The fluid and roomy fits are best because the buttons don’t gape open (remember to do the sit-down test). A roomier fit is better on a larger bust and/or broader shoulder so that the buttons don’t pull. Creating this look with a short and tight cardigan is tricky because the buttons pull apart and gape.

A fitted camisole or tank is great to wear underneath for warmth and coverage, or even a sleek Heattech thermal tee from Uniqlo if you run really cold. You can also unbutton a few top buttons of a crew neck cardi and allow a lace cami to peak out from under the neckline.

Wearing a short cardigan as a pullover is a handy strategy for styling a flared skirt, which is easily orphaned because you don’t have the right top. You don’t need to tuck or semi-tuck a buttoned-through short cardi, which is extra easy and comfy.

Boden Theodora Pleated Skirt

NOTE: Some rich content in this post was omitted because it isn’t supported by the feed. Please visit the post on youlookfab.com to see the additional content.


YouLookFab

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ICYMI: Wrapping up Fashion Month Fall 2019, Shop Platform Sneakers and Tan Handbags & More Street Style Inspiration

Sure, we’re all glued to our phones/tablets/laptops/watches that barely tell time, but even the best of us miss out on some important #content from time to time. That’s why, in case you missed it, we’ve rounded up our most popular stories of the week to help you stay in the loop. No need to thank …

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Link Love: Personal Style of Creative Women

Recently, I discovered the Personal Style series published on The Fold’s website, and I’m enjoying these articles because they not only show the personal style of women I wasn’t yet familiar with, but at the same time we also learn a bit more about their work and life philosophy. Here’s a look at three of them:

Fab Links from Our Members

L’Abeille got a laugh out of this, and thinks Fabbers can relate.

Runcarla reports that Toronto’s Indigenous Fashion Week is this week, and it’s sold out.

Shevia says it’s time for some pro-aging.

And had she only known, this could have been her profession: “How Fashion Forensics Are Helping Solve Crimes.”

Unfrumped enjoyed the Celine and Victoria Beckham Fall 2019 runway shows: “I never really look at designer shows or runway looks but saw these on Pinterest and was intrigued, thought they looked surprisingly wearable.”

Laura (rhubarbgirl) finds it interesting that shoe brand DSW is incorporating nail salons in their stores.

She also wanted to share this article about Seattle fashion rental startup Armoire that uses curation to change how women are buying clothes.

Finally, she came across this article reporting that the record number of retail stores closing over the last couple of years is expected to continue in 2019.

BrieN thought this was interesting: “How the Leather Jacket Became the New Power Blazer.”

Delurked wanted to share an article about how Gap and Old Navy are splitting up. She imagines they will need to split the websites, which would impact many shoppers.


YouLookFab

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Kate Middleton Discovers Trousers—and a Fresh Sense of Style

Photo Illustration by Kelly Caminero/The Daily Beast/Getty

“Pants!!!” fashion bloggers screamed through their keyboards this week, after Kate Middleton attended a charity engagement in pleated navy trousers from Jigsaw, a fashion label she worked for as an accessories buyer in the early aughts.

The look was instantly cited as an example of Middleton taking a page out of Meghan Markle’s stylebook. Markle wore many tailored pants before pregnancy relegated her to a few months of maternity dresses (often paired with stilettos, which Markle absolutely commands).

But it was not the first time the duchess swapped her favored fit-and-flare dress for something more business casual.

Read more at The Daily Beast.

The Daily Beast — Fashion

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11 Style Choices That Can Enhance Your Physical Appearance

When selected and paired strategically, clothes are more than simply stylish; they can make a man look even better than he naturally does, playing up his best features. But what are some of the best techniques to illustrate this principle?

At the heart of it, clothes are designed to make us look good. Unlike other creatures in the animal kingdom, we, the largely hairless apes, have little ornamentation on us. We don’t have colorful feathers, no iridescent scales or lush fur (at least not until genetic modification becomes a thing); our decoration is pretty much limited to how we style whatever hair we have on our heads and faces.

Unlike the extravagant peacock, the natural features of the human male aren't quite as flashy.
Unlike the extravagant peacock, the natural features of the human male aren’t quite as flashy.

So, clothes are the best option we have to elevate our looks, whether for a romantic partner or for corporate success. Every article of clothing and many accessories can impact how your physical features are perceived.  Now, while it’s certainly important to be happy with the way you look, you can use classic men’s style to enhance your physical appearance. Let’s examine the possibilities from head to toe.

1. Brimmed Hats to Complement Your Head/Face Shape

Yul Brynner in a hat
When he wasn’t flaunting his baldness, Yul Brynner knew how to style a hat

While Yul Brynner and Professor X are just a couple of men who make bald sexy, if your hair is spare, the fact is you have fewer styling options for the top of your head. That’s why a brimmed hat is an excellent choice to embellish your dome.  Baseball caps won’t earn you style points, and a knit cap is great to keep your noggin warm, but only a brimmed hat, like a fedora or flat cap in winter and a Panama hat in summer, will measure up to a tailored outfit. If you have a head that is long and narrow, the width of a brim can help counterbalance it, and any hat will create the perception that your head is shorter because it essentially splits your head height at the forehead. Shorter men,  by contrast, can use a hat with a taller or pinched and pointed crown to create an impression of greater height.  It’s amazing how many ways a hat can affect the perception of your face–from the size of your nose and chin to how prominent your ears are–and even your body size depending on the color and height of the hat band or the width of the brim, among other things. Check out our article on choosing the right hat for your face and body type for more details.

Bing Crosby in a hat with a tall crown
Bing Crosby, who was 5’7″ tall, wearing a hat with a tall crown

2. Glasses to Suit Your Face and Head Shape

As with a hat, it’s important to consider which glasses look good on you depending on the shape of your face, whether you wear a prescription or plain old sunglasses. However, the reverse is definitely true too: you can emphasize the best features of your face with the right shape of glasses and de-emphasize others. Of course, if you make a mistake, you can call negative attention to less flattering facial features. If one has a big nose, for example, large glasses will only make it look bigger. On the other hand, if you’ve got a narrow face (or a small nose), avoid small glasses and go big. Though it may seem counter-intuitive, with glasses the rule of thumb is to choose the opposite proportions to your features.

Tom Ford often wears bold sunglasses
With a face that is more long than wide and a narrow nose, Tom Ford can wear large sunglasses

3.  The Best Shirt Collars for Your Face Shape 

When buying shirts, most men don’t consider the importance of the collar. Either you have a favorite you prefer, like the classic button down, or you buy whatever is available. However, the collar you choose affects the impression of your face. To optimize your appearance, you want to take the same approach you would with glasses and get a collar that counterbalances the shape of your face. When you think about it, collar points are like arrows; where they point is where they direct the eyes. So, if you have a round or wide face, it’s best to avoid a spread-collared dress shirt, because the width and open points enhances the impression of width. The better choice is something like a narrow spear-point collar. If your face is lean, then go with the spread to draw the viewer’s eyes outward.

Avoid widespread Cutaway Shirt Collars
Men with narrower faces can afford to wear wider spread collars.

4. The Right Shirt Colors for Your Skin Tone

Because it’s directly next to your face, the color of a dress shirt is another factor that affects your appearance. In general, the two things to avoid are shirt colors that closely resemble your skin tone and those that create too much contrast. If you’re brown-skinned and wear a brown or olive shirt, your face may make less of an impression, while those with pink or yellow tones in their skin should usually avoid these colors. They will either make you look blotchy or take these colors out of your skin, leaving you looking faded. A similar negative effect is created if you wear a high-contrast color, especially if you’re pale. Nothing makes a light-skinned person look more like a ghost than a black shirt or even a navy one. If you’re tan, the contrast is reduced, which is why navy shirts may work better in the summer. Therefore, those with mid-tone and darker skin have a more range of color options available to them because there will be less contrast.

Paper test to determine your skin undertone
Paper test to determine your skin undertone

5. The Right Jacket Shoulder for Your Anatomy

Since its origins with Beau Brummell, the features of a suit have been tweaked and adjusted with the express purpose of enhancing the male physique. In fact, fashion historian Anne Hollander has explained that the suit developed with the goal of making men look like ancient Greek statues. It does this is by using cloth to create the impression of broad shoulders and slim hips–no need to go to the gym! This can start with the structured shoulder on suits made in the British style, where padding is used to make the shoulders appear larger. You can also see this on high-end French suits, most famously the “Cifonelli shoulder.”

Lorenzo Cifonelli (and the famed Cifonelli shoulder). (Photo courtesy of The Parisian Gentleman)

The additional padding in the shoulder area is specifically designed to make one look more physically imposing, perfect for the battlegrounds of business but best on lean men. Those who have athletic builds or otherwise bulky shoulders would end up with an exaggerated look if they stuck to structured suits. The best option in this case is the natural shoulder, without padding, exemplified by Neapolitan style suit jackets. These fit like shirts and allow your own shoulders to shine without enhancement.

Unpadded "natural shoulder."
Unpadded “natural shoulder.”

Another possibility for those who want to widen their upper bodies is to look for an extended jacket shoulder, where there isn’t heavy structure as in British suits, but instead a sleeve head that begins further out beyond where your shoulders end. This “cheats” by adding an inch or two to your width, giving you an impression of greater shoulder width. Ring Jacket and Liverano & Liverano feature these among high-end brands.

Extended shoulders
Taka and Qemal from Liverano & Liverano sporting their house style with extended jacket shoulders.

6. Jacket Patterns That Can Slim You Down or Bulk You Up

The pattern you wear on a suit jacket or sport coat can trick the eye to make others see you in a different light. If you’re broad chested, stripes are your best friend, because their vertical lines are slimming, whereas a man who is stocky and built like a brick wall wearing a bold windowpane-pattern sport coat will only look even wider. Meanwhile, if you’re thin, wearing a windowpane or a large grid makes your upper body appear broad because the horizontal lines are widening.

A comparison of shows the effect of a checked pattern has on the impression of chest width.
A comparison of vests shows the effect a checked pattern has on the impression of chest width.

7. Lapels Affect Chest (and Shoulder) Width

Suit jacket and sport coat lapels vary in width depending on the era. It’s usually said that a moderate width of around 3-3.5″ at the widest point is preferable. However, the choice boils down to your anatomy. A guideline related to lapel width and physical shape is that thin guys should err toward narrower lapels while big guys should go larger. This is to so your jacket matches with the overall impression of your size. However, this does serve to accentuate your physique. If you’re skinny and wear skinny lapels, your thin build will be even more apparent, and the same is true on the other end of the spectrum.

Avoid lapels that are too wide
Avoid lapels that are too wide

So, whether you want to do this depends on the physical impression you wish to create. You could very well do the opposite and create the sense that you have a bigger chest by wearing broader lapels if you are built like a stick, for example. Peak lapels, as opposed to the more common notched versions, can also can achieve the effect of widening the chest; like the points on a shirt collar, a peak lapel is really a large arrow pointing outwards. Keep in mind though that peak lapels have an “alpha male” and may not be appropriate for all workplaces unless you’re a high-ranking individual.

Wide lapels in navy blue by Sciamat
Wide lapels in navy blue by Sciamat

It’s also worth stating that wider lapels broaden the chest at the expense of narrowing the shoulders, since they cover more of the shoulder area, so you have to decide which area of your upper body you prefer to emphasize based on your physique.   

8. Suit Jacket Features will Affect How Tall You Look

On a notch lapel jacket, the mouth or v-shaped notch of the lapel is known as the gorge. Where this gorge sits on the lapel can vary from the upper chest to nearly at the top of the shoulder. Suits from the early to mid-20th century (for example, the 1930s) tend to have a lower gorge, but it has migrated upwards on contemporary jackets, especially in Italian tailoring. Conventional wisdom is that a higher gorge placement creates the impression of a broader chest and greater height because the lapel line is longer and uninterrupted.

A contemporary Cesare Attolini suit with a high gorge; Gary Cooper in the late 1930s wearing a suit with a low gorge

Alongside gorge height, buttoning point–where you close the button on the front of your suit jacket–also impacts the sense of the wearer’s height (and mass). When the buttoning point is lower, the V-area of exposed shirt and tie is larger, elongating the perceived size of your torso, which is why many men also prefer a 3-roll-2 jacket to a standard 2-button. This is especially useful if you have longer legs and a shorter torso: making the upper body seem longer balances things out. If your legs are short, a higher button point can be advantageous because it makes your upper body appear shorter and your legs longer.

Aleksjj wearing a Neapolitan jacket with open quarters, creating the impression of a shorter torso and longer legs.

A similar effect can be had with a shorter overall jacket length. Longer jackets will make your upper body appear longer. Though no population is uniform, Southern Italians are statistically shorter than Northern Europeans, so it is perhaps not surprising that Neapolitan style is marked by high gorge placement and shorter jackets that elongate the legs. Neapolitan jackets also have open quarters–the front flaps–revealing more of your pants, which further shortens the appearance of the jacket while lengthening the look of your legs. Depending on how tall or short you are and how much you want to compensate for your excess or lack of height, you can find jackets with favorable features to suit your situation.

9. Trouser Rise and Cuffs Impact the Impression of Height

Ethan Wong wearing high-rise trousers
Ethan Wong wearing high-rise trousers

Ultimately, manipulating the features of a suit jacket represents a balancing act between making either the torso or the legs seem longer based on the wearer’s proportions. As mentioned directly above, playing with the lapels, jacket length and buttoning point can accomplish this, but it can also be done with pants. Specifically by altering the trouser rise, you can make your legs seem shorter or longer. Rise refers to the area of the pants between the crotch and the waistband. High-rise pants are also called high-waisted pants, because the waistband sits higher–around where your natural waist is, not at the hips. This makes your legs seem considerably longer and so is desirable for those with long torsos or shorter legs.

Cuffed chinos offer a casual balance when paired with a jacket and tie
Cuffs have the effect of shortening the line of your legs

On the other hand, if you have long legs, high-rise pants would not be a good style choice. Since low-rise should never be an option if you want to keep a classic style, a mid-rise trouser along with a longer jacket would work.  Another possibility is adding cuffs to your pant legs, as the horizontal line they form makes your legs look shorter by the height of the cuffs. Again, you can play with a combination of jacket and pants features to achieve the optimal balance between your top and bottom halves. 

10. Pleated Pants will Affect Leg Width and Body Mass

Clark Gable wearing a v-neck sweater and a printed tie micropattern tie with grey pleated high rise pants
Clark Gable with grey pleated high rise pants

Though we may think of pants solely in terms of leg length, they also play a part in the sense of lower body mass. Pleated pants add more volume to the lower belly area, especially if they are combined with a higher waistline, so those who carry weight there may want to avoid them in favor of flat-front pants, which can be more flattering though also more confining. Volume also comes into play with the width of pant legs. During the Golden Age of menswear, pant legs tended to be quite large, as can be seen in the photo of Gary Cooper earlier in the article. This served to make the legs seem bigger and lend an overall sense of stature to the wearer.

Vintage illustration of suits featuring double pleats from Kuppenheimer, a menswear retailer based in Chicago, photographed by John Blah.
Vintage illustration of suits featuring double pleats from Kuppenheimer, a menswear retailer based in Chicago, photographed by John Blah.

While wearing pants that wide today would look dated, classic fit or full-cut trousers remain the best choice for most men. Slim-cut trousers should not be worn by those with big thighs, lest they create the appearance of being stuffed into sausage casings. Men with thin legs can pull off slim (though never skinny) fit pants if they prefer a young and lean look, but a wider leg will add girth and create an impression of maturity.  Whatever the choice, make sure what you wear on your upper body is the same sort of fit; wearing full-cut pants with a slim fit jacket or vice versa just looks disproportional.

11. Shoe Toe Shape to Complement Your Foot Size

Bestetti elongated toe
A highly elongated last (with a round toe): Riccardo Freccia Bestetti’s Boston shoe

Last in our top-to-bottom guide is footwear. You may be surprised that shoes can affect the way your body is perceived, but toe shape on a pair of shoes is important in creating a balanced finish to your look. If your feet are average or small, you may want to avoid shoes with rounded toes because they make your feet appear even smaller. Instead, seek out shoes with chiseled toes or lasts that are longer in the toe area to elongate your feet. Do bear in mind that longer and more pointed shoes look strange with slim fit pants, however, so if you have long feet or shoes with a longer toe shape, make sure the leg openings of your pants are wide enough to balance them out.  

Conclusion: Be Mindful of Proportions to Play up Your Features

Humans have had a sense of the ideal proportions of the body since from Ancient Greek sculpture to da Vinci’s Vitruvian man. Classic menswear worn today remains intimately tied to these ideals. We often hear the advice that the best way to look good in tailored clothes is simply to exercise, get fit, and follow the advice of your doctor. While this is important not only for style but for health, even without doing so, you can make certain style choices to accentuate your best physical qualities and disguise flaws.

The Vitruvian Man (by Da Vinci) and the Golden Ratio
The Vitruvian Man (by Da Vinci) and the Golden Ratio

There are an infinite variety of body types out there, from tall and thin (Jeff Goldblum), to tall and broad (Dwayne Johnson), tall with weight in the torso (Stephen Fry), short and thin (Daniel Radcliffe), short and stocky (Joe Pesci), and many others. Each can be addressed by making the right combination of stylistic choices that will bring every man closer to the ideal physique.


Gentleman’s Gazette

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ICYMI: Karl Lagerfeld’s Final Chanel Collection, The Best of Paris Street Style & Tommy Hilfiger x Zendaya

Sure, we’re all glued to our phones/tablets/laptops/watches that barely tell time, but even the best of us miss out on some important #content from time to time. That’s why, in case you missed it, we’ve rounded up our most popular stories of the week to help you stay in the loop. No need to thank …

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Fashionista

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Scouted: Bar Carts For Every Style and Preference

Recently, I decided to finally rearrange my apartment. After getting a custom design for my living room, I bought a new bookshelf and moved a couple other pieces around to have a better flow in my space. But that meant that I had to outfit the newly arranged room with other pieces to fill the caps. And this finally meant I had room for my ultimate goal: a bar cart. I’ve been on the hunt for a couple weeks now for the perfect bar cart that isn’t just a place to store alcohol bottles and glasses but is also a statement piece in the room. It has to be strong and substantial and not just two pieces of wood stacked on a metal frame with wheels stuck on. I want a Mad Men-level bar cart. And so, my hunt continues. But I’ve narrowed my search down to a few that really fit the bill, and if you’re in search of one, too, this list may serve as inspiration.

Acrylic Bar Cart, $ 199.99

Read more at The Daily Beast.

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http://www.acrx.org -As millions of Americans strive to deal with the economic downturn,loss of jobs,foreclosures,high cost of gas,and the rising cost of prescription drug cost. Charles Myrick ,the President of American Consultants Rx, announced the re-release of the American Consultants Rx community service project which consist of millions of free discount prescription cards being donated to thousands of not for profits,hospitals,schools,churches,etc. in an effort to assist the uninsured,under insured,and seniors deal with the high cost of prescription drugs.-American Consultants Rx -Pharmacy Discount Network News

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The Dappered Space: From Style Scenario to Styled Dining

The Dappered Space is a series designed to help guys apply the sense of personal style they’ve developed to the space they inhabit. Watch for articles on furniture and decor sales & picks, advice on how to style a room or work space, and tackling creating a space that reflects your own (and perhaps a significant other’s) personal tastes. We’ll suggest items that can be sourced online, but always keep in mind that deals can be found at consignment and thrift stores, local stores with floor models, discount stores, and even yard sales. (photo credit)

In this Dappered Space we’re concentrating on the dining area, and taking our cues from a Style Scenario published in January. Based on a rugged look, the tones in this outfit translate perfectly to a dining area.

Dappered.com

Even if you typically eat on the couch, having a styled dining space can come in handy for dinner parties, dates, or even just making yourself feel a bit better when dining alone. While the style scenario was based on a rugged look, this Styled Space is anything but. We’re mixing mid-century modern with contemporary pieces and timeless classics. All come together to create a well curated space you can treat friends and family to a great meal in.
The Dappered Space: From Style Scenario to Styled Dining

The Dining Table: 5-Piece Katherine Mid Century Fabric and Wood Finish Dining Set – $ 398.04. Under $ 400 for a dining set is a pretty solid deal. Especially when the dining set is well reviewed. Has a mid-century modern look to it, but is simple enough to be incorporated into a few different styles.

The Rug: Threshold 5′ x 7′ Blue/Gray Weaved and Fringed Tufted Area Rug – $ 116.99 w/HOME ($ 129.99). A pop of blue with some texture to boot. Adding a rug to a dining area delineates space and is eye-catching.

The Centerpiece: Round Marble Serving Tray (set of two) – $ 67.98, and Faux Snake Plant in Gray Pot – $ 39.99. Of course, this is just a suggestion. If you enjoy live houseplants, use a real one. Or a wood tray with a cluster of decorative pots would work too, or a vase with an arrangement of branches.

The Placemats: Project 62 Woven Stripe Placemat – $ 4.99. Get 6 of these so you have one for each place setting. Or, if you like mixing things up a bit, get 4, and do something different for your 2 additional. Life doesn’t have to be boring.

The Plates: Black Organic Rimmed Dinner Plates (set of 6) – $ 53.94. You’ve probably noticed we’re mixing some traditional with modern elements here. Black definitely leans modern, but the organic element in these plates keeps them from looking like dishes from the 90’s, plus they nicely mirror the centerpiece.

The Cutlery: DANIALLI 40-Piece Flatware Set For 8 – $ 66.99. Yes, you could spend a lot less on cutlery. But you can literally feel the difference when holding nicer cutlery versus not. Treat yo’ self and your guests, and have some nice cutlery around for dinner parties.

The Glasses: Blue Ombre Set of 4 Highball Glasses – $ 50. You’ll need two sets of these if you have a party of 6 and everyone is drinking out of the same glass. If not, mix it up with a couple different glasses. These are different, but not so different that they’re kitschy. For a more affordable yet good looking set of glasses, check out this option from Libbey.

The Salt & Pepper Dispensers: Antique Brass Hammered Salt & Pepper Shakers – $ 29.95. You don’t have to settle for cheap glass shakers that would look right at home in a greasy spoon diner. These brass shakers are just as decorative as they are functional.

The Wall Art: Wieco Art Moon Modern Giclee Canvas Prints (set of 4) – $ 24.90 to $ 39.90. Art is very much subjective. But who doesn’t love the moon? If you’re not quite sure what to hang on your walls, black and white photography always looks clean and timeless.

Sarah is a long time member of the Dappered team, typically working behind the scenes editing posts, taking some photos, and keeping the books in good standing. Occasionally she’ll come out from behind the curtain to offer her two cents.


Dappered Style Mail

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This is what London street style looked like before Instagram

Another season of London Fashion Week is almost over, and with it another season of cool street style looks that will no doubt set the trends for SS19. But whilst we’re now used to seeing them all over social media (if it didn’t go on Instagram, did you even wear it?), that wasn’t always the case.

Ever wondered what Londoners wore in the 20s or 30s, or even the 50s? Well wonder no more, because Ancestry, which specialises in family history, just shared their fashion records with us.

This includes fashion shows dating back to 1916, including images of London’s best-dressed woman of 1937 – Rosita Forbes – sporting the year’s biggest trend of wide leg trousers, an Ascot riverside parade in Richmond, the evolution of the Crinoline, top models learning new makeup tricks and more. Scroll down to see these and more pics.


Date: 31 May 1937
A riverside parade of Ascot fashions attracted a large audience at Richmond. The parade was held on the terrace of Mary Childs overlooking the Thames. A parade of Ascot fashions by the riverside at Richmond Bridge.


Date: 1916
London Fashion. The Cordoline – an improvement on The Crinoline


Date:N/A
Dresses from the Gay Ninetees meet the fashions of today on the Promenade Deck of a Pleasure Cruiser built high on the roof tops of a Bayswater store.


Date: 23 Jul 1953
Two of the top models of the future, now training at London’s biggest model school, are 20 year old Ticia Burrows, of Surbiton, and 22 year old Jean Leeson, of Fittleworth, Sussex. They are shown some of the new tricks of make-up by Miss Marjorie Wood, the Beauty Counselor, who is “headmistress” of the school, in Pont Street, W.


Date: 26 Jan 1929
The very latest in gloves have heavy trimmings to the cuffs. Here is a unique of black kid gloves with “mousquaitaire” tops covered with fine white wool embroidery of antique design thus supplying an additional ornamental cuff to a coat


Date: 25 October 1937
Rosita Forbes, traveller, writer and explorer, and London’s best dressed woman, known in private life as Mrs. Arthur McGrath.


Date: 23 Sep 1923
Her Majesty the Queen, who has Returned to London from Scotland for Two Days Takes the Opportunity to See the New Fashions and Select Autumn Clothes. Her purchases included new styles which she will wear for next Tuesday, on the occasion of the launching of the new Cunarder. Mannequins, who wore the gowns for the Queen, returning from the Palace, with some she had selected. FOX PHOTOS. SEPT. 23.


Date: 27 Mar 1937
A few months ago eight pretty girls were lining up outside employment exchanges in Wales, hoping for jobs. Now after a few weeks training they have blossomed into West End mannequins. They are the “vanguard” in a scheme evolved by Miss LucyClayton, who is recruiting girls from Wales for her mannequin school, training them free of charge. Photo shows- The eight Welsh girl mannequins seen in London.

The post This is what London street style looked like before Instagram appeared first on Marie Claire.

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11 Bad Men’s Style “Rules” to Ignore

Here are a number of supposed style rules or pieces of advice that you may have heard before that we don’t necessarily think you need to follow all the time or in some cases at all.

Our primary mission here at the Gentleman’s Gazette is to educate our audience about what it means to be a Gentleman. And a big portion of that has to do with the history and traditions of classic menswear. Often when men are discussing these menswear traditions their conversation can come to be framed in terms of style rules that must be followed at all costs. While we certainly do believe that there are great many pieces of advice that are rooted in sound logic and the principles of aesthetics, thinking always in terms of ironclad rules that have to be followed is simplistic and pedantic and limits your options in terms of what you can wear stylishly. In other words, you don’t have to think of some of these things as rules that have to be followed a hundred percent of the time and some of the things we’re going to mention today can just be discarded altogether.

With that said, here are some supposed rules or pieces of advice that we think can be bent, broken or just left aside. These aren’t necessarily in any particular order of importance but we’ve numbered them today just to keep things consistent.

Fit is important

1. Wear A Suit And Look Fantastic

Advice number one, just wear a suit and you’ll automatically look fantastic. While this piece of advice does advocate for dressing up which of course we support, it’s a little bit too simplistic in nature. As we’ve said countless times before in the channel, fit is the most important factor when wearing any outfit. You may have a suit that’s constructed from the most luxurious materials available but if it doesn’t fit your frame properly it’s still going to look sloppy.

Quantity does not equal Quality

2. More Clothes, The Better / If It’s On Sale, Buy It

Two closely related tips, the more clothes you have in your closet the better and if it’s on sale in a store, buy it. Here’s the thing about these two related pieces of advice. Ultimately, quantity does not equal quality. You don’t need to have a pair of pants in every color under the sun or a jacket for each day of the month in your closet. There’s nothing wrong with having options, of course, but having a modestly sized closet full of garments that you wear regularly and that look good on you will ultimately serve you just as well if not better than having an excess of options. This dovetails into another tip don’t buy something you’re not going to wear. Even if you see a deal in a store and it’s 90% off, if you don’t think the garment in question is one that’s going to look good on you or one that won’t harmonize with other pieces in your wardrobe, don’t buy it. Save your money however small the amount may be for something that you will wear regularly.

3. Expensive = High Quality / Buy Only Name Brand Items

Another two closely related tips, if something is expensive it must be of high quality and you should only buy name-brand items. These are sort of the reverse of the tip about items being on sale. Just because something is very expensive or has a brand name associated with it doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s high quality. Oftentimes you’re really just going to be paying the extra money for the brand name itself. Whenever you’re buying any garment your primary focus should be on the quality of construction, the materials used and whether that garment in question will work well with other pieces in your wardrobe.

Trends are trends for a reason

4. Follow The Current Trends

An easy way to get started with dressing better is to follow some of the current trends that are going on. It’s never a bad thing to want to upgrade your personal style unless you’re just doing it for superficial reasons or to fish for compliments. If you go out and buy a bunch of items of clothing that are trendy at the moment chances are that they’re probably going to be out of fashion in a year or maybe even less time. After all, trends are trends for a reason. Instead just invest in quality garments that follow these solid principles of aesthetics: fit, function, color theory and so on. If you do this, people’s compliments about your improving style will be genuine as will their respect.

5. Outfits Should Match / Black And Brown Don’t Go Together

A general tip and a more specific tip, everything in your outfit should match and more specifically that you can’t wear black and brown together. People often advocate for a monochromatic look because it’s a relatively safe way of looking put together after all you won’t have any wildly clashing colors if you’re wearing all the same color. Similarly, people say that black and brown are two fundamentally different in terms of formality to be paired together both of these tips require a bit more nuance to be helpful.

First of all, not every article of clothing in your outfit has to match exactly. The thing you should be shooting for is for all of your garments to harmonize in a way that’s aesthetically pleasing. For example, you could be wearing an all-black outfit but keep in mind that there are subtle variations in shades of black between different garments of different fabrics and with different dyes and so on. And if some of these blacks in your clothes are looking almost the same but not quite this can be jarring to the eye. And it might have been a better decision to wear something in different colors that harmonized well. Similarly, black and brown can absolutely be worn together if the garments in question harmonize in terms of intensity and formality.

6. Advice On Fit

Pieces of advice on fit. Things like you should wear all slim fit clothing if you want to look thinner or larger men should only wear clothing that’s more roomy. The bottom line with any advice in terms of fit is this. Properly fitted garments are ones that are proportional to your individual frame and thus that flatter you well. As an example, if a larger man is wearing slim fit clothing in order to look thinner but the garments are actually too tight on him, all of the wrinkling and tugging in different places around the outfit is just going to make him look too big for his clothing. On the other hand, a big man who has too much fabric on his frame is just going to look like a tent. Any well fitting article of clothing on you should be just loose enough to be comfortable and let you be mobile but still fitted enough so that it’s not billowing, sagging, dragging, or so on.

7. Old Chestnuts About What Not To Wear

Some old chestnuts about what to wear-when. Like no wearing white after Labor Day, no wearing white before Memorial Day or no Brown in town. All of these supposed rules are entirely antiquated today. They got their start in the 19th century as a way for the old money aristocracy to easily socially separate themselves from the new money or nouveau riche as well as the lower classes. These old sayings are just rooted in classism and social stratification and as such, they really don’t have any place in the 21st century. While it is true that some informally styled brown suits or other brown ensembles aren’t totally appropriate for traditional white-collar business settings even this is starting to change to some extent.

In the broad-strokes for all of these tips however just remember that if it looks good on you you can wear it at any time.

Wearing a tie as a belt

8. Trousers With Belt Loops Needs A Belt

If your trousers have belt loops, you have to wear a belt. This tip comes from the fact that above all, most men’s clothing really is rooted in purpose and utility. Belt loops are another similarly utilitarian feature. After all, belts are designed to hold up your trousers but they were also historically used to carry things for men who were working. Because this use for belts is really only confined to a few industries or applications these days, you won’t see belts in as many situations. And think of it this way, if your trousers are really fitting properly you won’t absolutely have to have a belt to hold them up. As such you’ve got a variety of options for how to keep your trousers up whether or not they have belt loops. You could wear suspenders if your trousers also have suspender buttons. You could use side adjusters if your trousers have both loops and adjusters. You could use an old tie as a belt if you wanted to go for an especially casual look or yes you could go beltless. Ultimately, you just have to keep in mind the level of formality of the outfit you’re trying to assemble.

9. Leather And Metals Must Match

You always have to match the leathers and the metals in your outfits. This guideline is designed to help men who are just starting out with the principles of classic style to assemble outfits that are more harmonious. And while it’s never going to look bad if you match the metals or the leathers in your outfit you can also be tasteful about bending this rule. For example, you could be wearing gold cufflinks and a watch with a subtle and tasteful silver case or you could be wearing a darker brown belt with slightly lighter brown shoes. In either of these cases, no one is going to arrest you if you try to wear these items together. The key with pairing any articles of clothing is to make sure that no single element of your outfit is overpowering. As long as everything is working in harmony together and your elements are tasteful, you can go ahead and wear slightly different metals or leathers in the same outfit. With that said there are certain metallic tones and leather colors that harmonize better with specific skin tones.

10. Always Match Your Socks To Your Pants Or Shoes

You should always match your socks to either your pants or your shoes. This one has its roots and aesthetics basically the thinking is that if you match the color of your socks to the color of your shoes, your leg line is going to be broken up when you sit down or when your socks are otherwise exposed. Similarly, if you match the color of your socks to that of your pants, your leg line is always going to look longer. And while these two fundamental rules are true and sound, that doesn’t mean that you always have to feel like your socks should match your pants directly. After all, there’s been an ongoing trend over the last few decades for more crazy and colorful socks. And while we don’t necessarily advocate for socks that are really out there, you can feel free to wear them if you think they work with your casual outfit. Otherwise for a slightly more formal outfit feel free to match your socks to your shirt, your tie, or some other element of your outfit. Again the key here is harmony. It’s always going to be safest and most conservative if you match your socks to your pants but you don’t have to do so 100% of the time.

11. Follow The Advice Of Your Favourite Style Site

And finally, just follow all of the advice of your favorite style Youtubers or authors to the letter and you can’t go wrong. Obviously, we here at the Gentleman’s Gazette think that we’re providing the best advice possible to all men who are looking to upgrade their style. And while we do hope that you’ll follow the guidelines we put out. Keep in mind that they are just that guidelines. If you want to experiment to some extent to find your own personal style and expression, go ahead and do so! After all, at the end of the day, you are you and you can express your individuality however you so choose.

CONCLUSION

It’s helpful to think of the principles of classic menswear more as guidelines and guardrails than hard and fast rules. Some of these can be bent some of them can be broken from time to time and some of them can be discarded completely. If you’re just starting out on your menswear journey it can be helpful to follow some of these pieces of advice more closely so that you won’t be making grave mistakes. As you become more experienced however by knowing more of these guidelines you’ll be able to break them tastefully.

What did you think of our list? Are there any that you really think we got dead wrong in our advice? Do you think some of these rules should still be followed to the letter or do you have a different perspective? Whatever the case may be, share with us in the comments below.


Gentleman’s Gazette

MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!

ICYMI: Bright-Red Street Style Inspiration, Justin Bieber’s Yeezy-esque Clothing Line & Our Favorite Beauty Products of the Month

Sure, we’re all glued to our phones/tablets/laptops/watches that barely tell time, but even the best of us miss out on some important #content from time to time. That’s why, in case you missed it, we’ve rounded up our most popular stories of the week to help you stay in the loop. No need to thank …

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Fashionista

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TREND REPORT: Here’s The New Way To Incorporate Snakeskin Style Into Your Wardrobe

Fenty Beauty By Rihanna Anniversary Event

Source: Caroline McCredie / Getty

We can all agree that animal print is now interchangeable as a neutral. What used to be a print reserved for your outlandish Auntie or fashion-forward friend, is now an everyday print that is incorporated into one’s closet. While leopard and cheetah print might be the most common, and introductory print, snakeskin proved to be the new darling on the Spring and Fall 2018 runways. The animal print, particularly, the snakeskin trend is not going anywhere. We saw it on covers, with Rihanna wearing a multi-colored snakeskin Gucci coat for Vogue Arabia November 2018 issue. For 2019, we’re still seeing snakeskin going strong, stylishly. Click through our gallery to see the trend on the runway and your favorite celebs for some serious style inspiration on how to wear it. Don’t miss out on the new way python is trending and how to incorporate it into your 2019 style.

MadameNoire

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10 Retro Home Products that Are Back in Style

Every generation has a tendency to recycle trends and styles from the past. For some its rediscovering favorites of yesteryear, while for others it’s an introduction to something new. Whether it’s a case of nostalgia, improved technology, or a mix bit of both, these 10 items are making a comeback in homes all across the country.
Bob Vila : Trusted Home Renovation & Repair Expert

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The Best Celeb Street Style at Paris Men’s Fashion Week

The official start of Fashion Month may still be a month away, but menswear designers are getting a head start on the action with Paris Men’s Fall-Winter 2019 Fashion Week. In addition to all the action on the runway, plenty of stars have stylishly showed up in the City of Light to take in the shows from the front row.

From OG supermodels like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell (shout out to her new curly ‘do) to newbies like Kaia Gerber popping up to support designers like Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton and Off-Whiteand others, there has been plenty of fab street style to rival the dapper duds coming down the runway.

Keep scrolling to see all of our favorite celebrity street style from Paris Menswear Fashion Week!

Us Weekly

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Cary Grant Style Secrets & How To Dress Like Him

A quintessential gentleman, a charismatic icon of timeless elegance and grace, Cary Grant will forever remain in our hearts and on our screens as one of the best-dressed men Hollywood has ever seen. Described as having a gracious manner, the debonair Grant always seemed to have everything in place. His hair was always coiffed, his cars shined and pristine and his attire could only be described as impeccably tailored and fit for a gentleman.

The History of Mr. Cary Grant

Cary Grant is one of those names that sticks with you. It’s a movie stars name, the name of the lead in a play or a character in a book. It has a ring to it, and that’s probably why Archibald “Archie” Leach chose it as his name in 1942.

Cary Grant = Archibald Alexander Leach

Born on January 18, 1904, Archibald Alexander Leach came into this world as the child of Elsie Maria Leach and Elias James Leach. His upbringing was anything but normal with his mother in and out of mental institutions for bouts of depression among other issues. He attended Bishop Road Primary School in Bristol, England where he grew up and on in the time his mother was sent away, his father Elias would tell him she was taking a long holiday. After a few bouts, Elias had her committed and told Grant she had died while traveling. It wasn’t until he was 31 years old that his father confessed she was mentally unstable and had not been on holiday, nor was she dead, but that he could find her alive in the sanitarium.

Abandoned As A Young Boy

By the time Leach was ten years old, his father had remarried and began a life with his new family that refused to include the young boy. To date, there is little known about how he was cared for, and by whom.

With his family troubles, Leach turned to mischief and was expelled from the Fairfield Grammar School in Bristol in 1918. He had always been very skilled in acrobatics and entertaining so he joined the Bob Pender Stage Troupe where he learned to walk on stilts. At the age of 16, he traveled with the vaudevillian troupe to United States on the RMS Olympic for a two year tour of the country. He, like many young men at that time was processed at Ellis Island on July 28, 1920.

Dietrich in sparkly tailcoat wtih Cary Grant wearing a single end bow tie with his white tie ensemble
Dietrich in sparkly tailcoat with Cary Grant wearing a single end bow tie with his white tie ensemble

America, The Land Of Grants Dreams

The young Leach was so enamored with the American dream and the lifestyle that he refused to return home at the end of the stay. Not having a father or mother who would miss him, he joined the American vaudeville acts and went on tour with Parker, Rand and Leach. For the first part of his career while on stage, he still performed under the name Archie Leach in shows such as Irene, Music in May, Rio Rita and the Street Singer. His experience with the acrobatic group gave him incredible strength, timing and grace and it wasn’t long before he would make the trip to Hollywood in the year 1931, playing on Broadway before hitting the big screen.

Archie Leach Becomes Cary Grant But He Was Almost Cary Lockwood

The name Archibald Leach would now be nothing but a distant memory filled with dread like a disease he had overcome.

Many have speculated where the name Cary Grant came from, but experts agree that according to witness testimony, Grant had originally proposed the name of Cary Lockwood, a character he enjoyed playing in the Broadway show Nikki. When he signed with Paramount Studios shortly before changing his name, he allegedly told producers and they found “Cary” acceptable but thought Lockwood was to similar to another actor’s last name. According to the history books, Paramount supplied the young man with a list of suitable names and he selected “Grant” because the initials “C.G.” had already proved very fortunate for men like Gary Cooper and Clark Gable.

Young Cary Grant in white tie, not the tiny bow tie knot and low profile rounded waistcoat tips
Young Cary Grant in white tie, not the tiny bow tie knot and low profile rounded waistcoat tips

Cary Grant Was An Instant Hit

From then on, Grant was an almost instant hit. With natural charm and a certain grace that few seemed to have, Cary Grant was a leading man who skyrocketed to fame as the star of Blonde Venus in 1932, followed by Mae West’s films She Done Him Wrong and I’m No Angel. A tremendous success at the box office, I’m No Angel was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Picture which saved Paramount at the time from declaring bankruptcy, but pushed Grant into a long series of unsuccessful film projects until 1936 when he signed with Columbia Pictures.

With his comedic timing from his years as an acrobat and stilt walker, he was picked to star in the 1937 comedy Topper which was distributed by MGM. Then The Awful Truth came out that same year which fully established Grant as a sophisticated leading man with a gentle comedic touch. It was rare in a time of masculine enforced male stars, but Grant used his gift of grace as a way to lighten things up and play various roles as opposed to being typecast simply as a good looking man.

Cary Grant with wide peak lapel tuxedo and butterfly bow tie and two shirt studs
Cary Grant with wide peak lapel tuxedo and butterfly bow tie and two shirt studs

“I pretended to be somebody I wanted to be and I finally became that person. Or he became me. Or we met at some point.”

Many argue that Grant was such a successful actor because of his upbringing. According to Grant, he was always pretending to be someone else. He once wrote “I pretended to be somebody I wanted to be and I finally became that person. Or he became me. Or we met at some point.”

Considering he had such a challenging upbringing, many attribute Grant’s style and manners as nothing short of miraculous, but Grant spent hours researching and watching men he admired in an effort to become more domesticated and less like the hooligan he once was, spouting off jazzy street talk instead of focusing on proper grammar. According to Grant of the pivotal moments for him in creating his “personality” was watching Leo McCarey, the director of The Awful Truth who had manners and a level of sophisticated grace like Grant had never seen before. His mannerisms and intonations resembled Grant’s, and he used McCarey as a learning tool to further his passion for savoir-vivre.

His performance in The Awful Truth was something The Atlantic called “the most spectacular run ever for an actor in American pictures” and for the next number of years, Grant went from hit to hit performing in romantic and screwball comedies.

A Casual Day for Cary Grant
A Casual Day for Cary Grant

His list of films became almost endless as he performed next to starlets such as Katharine Hepburn, Rosalind Russell, Rita Hayworth, Ingrid Bergman and Irene Dunne. It wasn’t long before every woman in America wanted him and every man wanted to be him. His style, his charm, his wit was unlike the world had seen. His sartorial flair for style was unprecedented and to top it off, he had the natural looks of a superstar. Many argue that men like Fred Astaire had similar traits, but Grant’s physical appearance was unmatched and he became a force in Hollywood.

Grant was liked. Both on and off screen he had a natural humbleness and graceful demeanor that made people swoon to him. Alfred Hitchcock once said Grant was “the only actor I ever loved in my whole life”.

British born actor Cary Grant (1904 - 1986) walking outdoors wearing a pinstripe jacket and a hat, 1940s.
British born actor Cary Grant (1904 – 1986) walking outdoors wearing a pinstripe jacket and a hat, 1940s.

By the mid 1950s, Grant opened up shop and started Granart Productions, which produced a number of films distributed by Universal including Operation Petticoat, That Touch of Mink with Doris Day, Indiscreet and Father Goose.

Then in 1963, my favorite day in movie history came when Cary Grant acted alongside my celebrity crush, Audrey Hepburn in Charade. Nothing truly noteworthy came of this and to be perfectly honest, there is no point in mentioning this in lieu of other movies he’s in. I just love Audrey Hepburn and since I’m writing this article, so long as my editor doesn’t delete this I can pretty much write whatever I want.

What is noteworthy however is what happened a year before. Cary Grant, in my opinion, is the perfect choice of every leading man ever to step foot in Hollywood to play James Bond. He never did though. Producers considered him for the role in 1962’s Dr. No, but decided against casting him since they were worried he wouldn’t stay tied down to just one picture. I know this is a first world problem but to me it’s devastating that he never played 007.

Cary Grant was a fan of pleats
Cary Grant was a fan of pleats

Throughout his career, Grant was nominated for two Academy Awards but lost both for Penny Serenade and None But The Lonely Heart. He retired still in demand at the age of 62 but received a special Academy Award for Lifetime Achievement in 1970. Peter Stone, the co-writer of Father Goose said while receiving an Oscar, “My thanks to Cary Grant, who keeps winning these things for other people.” And according to the people closest to him, that’s just what Grant did. He was one of the rare few who always put people ahead of himself. It was rare for him to deny an interview, say no to a child wanting an autograph, or pose for a picture with a teary-eyed fan. Grant was about making others feel more comfortable, possibly because he was never comfortable himself.

The Style of a Legend

Inside Grant was a hurt man. Disposed of by his parents, lied to about his mother’s death until his thirties and tragically avoided by his father when he adopted a new family. No man could withstand that level of distress without masking it somehow. And that’s just what Grant did. If he wasn’t put together on the inside, he would try to always be confident on the outside. As a young chap, his father once told him when he was wearing a combination with loud socks – “remember, it is you walking down the street, not your socks.”

Interestingly, he had arrived in the U.S. in 1920 on the same ocean liner as Douglas Fairbanks Sr. Even though they didn’t travel in the same class, he was able to catch a glimpse here or their and the timeless, classic and elegant style of Fairbanks made a huge impression on him. Even years later he was able to tell Ralph Lauren all about the intricacies of Fairbanks’ clothes and accessories, including fabrics types, lapel widths and buttonholes. Interestingly, up to his style icons and tried to imitate them until he became like them.

Cary Grant Style = clothes of a well dressed, sophisticated chap

In his own words, he favored the “clothes of a well dress, sophisticated chap”.

A huge fan of military uniforms, Grant recognized them as being the apex of mens fashion. He realized that soldiers always looked sharp and even when they were disheveled in war, they still had a raw masculinity to them because of the uniform. Grant decided to adopt that in his wardrobe and treated his attire, not as clothing, but as his uniform. It wasn’t that his tuxedo was made of the feathers of an eagle or the hair of a unicorn, it was no different from any other man’s dinner jacket, except that Grant ensured his fit him flawlessly and was always perfectly cleaned, crisply ironed and not a strand was out of place. Whether it was a dinner jacket or a pair of  jeans, he knew that clothes make the man.

1935:  British born actor Cary Grant (1904 - 1986), who starred in a number of classic comedies between the 1930s and 1960s.
1935: British born actor Cary Grant (1904 – 1986), who starred in a number of classic comedies between the 1930s and 1960s.

Because of his slim figure he was able to buy clothes off the rack such as trench coats from Aquascutum and country clothing from Abercrombie & Fitch (at that time, AF wasn’t what it is today but instead it was popular with gentlemen interested in the outdoors). In his early days he would often wear collar pins and knit ties, later he would wear 3-fold ties more often. He understood that even the least expensive items from a retail store still needed a hem here, a cuff there. Just as the army required their soldiers to keep their boots shined and pleats straight, Grant would spend countless hours and hire countless help to ensure his clothes were always immaculate. His suits and shirts were often custom tailored at Cifonelli in Rome or Dunhill in London and sometimes copied in Hong Kong. The copiers were so meticulous that they once even replicated the little fray on the collar of one of Grant’s favorite shirts!

Cary Grant in white tie
Cary Grant in white tie

One thing Cary Grant hated wearing was hats. Perhaps as Eva Marie Saint said he had “such a nice face”. He was striking and looked good in almost everything, except hats. He looked terrible in hats. He had this strong, assertive, perfectly framed face so why wear a hat and cover it up. Many men in that day like Humphrey Bogart made use of hats to reveal character traits, but Grant didn’t need it. He didn’t need it worth a damn. He could give a look or make an expression in one way or another that would reveal everything he wanted us to know, and for generations since, actors have tirelessly pursued that level of perfected acting.

Hats Rarely Looked Good on Cary Grant
Hats Rarely Looked Good on Cary Grant
Cary Grant Rarely Wore Hats
Cary Grant Rarely Wore Hats

The thing is that he really wasn’t the best actor around. Audiences were just so spellbound by his good looks and sense of style his awkward acting came across as a masculine form of aloofness. In that day and age, men who practiced style the way Grant did were thought to be homosexuals, but somehow, for some reason, many people looked past that with Grant.

“He had such fun in performing. He was so full of joy. You could see it in his body. You could see it in his face. He just let it all out”, said Eve Marie Saint.

In that day and age, male stars didn’t have the luxury of large wardrobes and often had to wear their own clothes. That’s one of the reasons they kept casting Grant was because he was damn elegant. The fourteen-gauge, mid-gray, worsted wool suits he wore in North by Northwest were his own; ones he had personally purchased from tailors on Savile Row.

Marlene Dietrich in Blone Venus 1932 in special white tie - note Cary Grant
Marlene Dietrich in Blone Venus 1932 in special white tie – note Cary Grant

His dress was certainly popular with the ladies and he had a few to his name. He was married five times to Virginia Cherril, Barbara Hutton, Betsy Drake, Dyan Cannon and Barbara Harris with many partners in between. Rumors have circulated that perhaps Grant was gay or bisexual but many women argue he was absolutely not. Regardless of who Grant was on the inside, to everyone else he was a legend. A man of timeless elegance who retired when his daughter Jennifer was born, so that she would have stability and fatherly love in her upbringing. Something he never had himself.

On the morning of November 29, 1986, when his wife left for a pharmacy in search of aspirin, Cary Grant suffered a cerebral hemmorage. He died at 11:22 that evening in St. Luke’s Hospital at the age of 82. The vast majority of his estate was left to his fifth wife, Barbara Harris, and his daughter, the true love of his life, Jennifer Grant.

“Permit me to suggest that you dress neatly and cleanly. A young person who dresses well usually behaves well. Good manners and a pleasant personality, even without a college education, will take you far.” – Cary Grant

Book

If you would like to learn more about Cary Grant’s style, you should buy a copy of Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style.

Cary Grants Thoughts on Clothing

Much has been written about Cary Grant’s style but he only wrote one article about his thoughts on clothing in style, which was published in a 5 part series in THIS WEEK in 1962. 5 years later, GQ picked it up and republished it. Here it is again:

I’m often asked for advice or an opinion about clothes, and I always try to answer the best I can, but I’m not inclined to regard myself as an authority on the subject. Many times during my years in films, some well-meaning group has selected me as best-dressed man of the year, but I’ve never understood why. The odd distinction surprises me: first, because I don’t consider myself especially well dressed, and, secondly, I’ve never, as far as I can compare the efforts of others with my own, gone to any special trouble to acquire clothes that could be regarded as noticeably fashionable or up-to-date.

Cary Grant in North by Northwest

Some of my suits are ten to twenty years old, many of them ready-made and reasonably priced. Those that were custom-tailored were made by many different tailors in many different cities: London, Hong Kong, New York and Los Angeles. I believe that American ready-made clothes are the best ready-made clothes in the world: that the well-dressed American man makes a better appearance than the well-dressed man of any other country.

No, it isn’t only money that determines how well a man dresses—it’s personal taste. Because of the demands of my work, I’ve purchased dozens of suits over the years and they all have one attribute in common: they are in the middle of fashion. By that I mean they’re not self-consciously fashionable or far out, nor are they overly conservative or dated. In other words, the lapels are neither too wide nor too narrow, the trousers neither too tight nor too loose, the coats neither too short nor too long. I’ve worn clothes of extreme style, but only in order to dress appropriately for the type of character I played in particular films. Otherwise, simplicity, to me, has always been the essence of good taste.

I believe men’s clothes—like women’s—should attract attention to the best lines of a man’s figure and distract from the worst. In all cases, the most reliable style is in the middle of the road—a thoughtful sensible position in any human behavior. Except perhaps on the freeway—but, even then, the middle lane, providing of course, it’s on your side of the road, usually gets you where you’re going more easily, comfortably, and less disturbingly. And so it should be with clothes. They should be undisturbing, easy and comfortable.

There are many established stores or haberdasheries in each city, and probably in your neighborhood. Look at the suits in the windows. See how they compare with those worn by men whose taste you respect and admire. Think about the practical, functional and long-wearing qualities as they apply to your particular job or social activities. It’s better to consider carefully before buying than to regret your purchases for months afterwards. Study the cut, the price.

And here, by the way, is a tip. If the sleeves seem disproportionately wider than customary, it indicates a very deep armhole. Don’t contemplate buying if you are of average or slim size—you’ll get a well-fitting back but an extremely loose-fitting front and sleeves that tend to ride up if you lift your arms. A deep armhole is popular with many manufacturers because each coat fits a wider range of customers.

Film star Cary Grant with fourth wife Dyan Cannon
Film star Cary Grant with fourth wife Dyan Cannon

How much on should pay depends on how much one has to spend. I’m reminded of a piece of advice my father gave me regarding shoes: it has stood me in good stead whenever my own finances were low. He said it’s better to buy one good pair of shoes than four cheap ones. One pair made of fine leather could outlast four inferior pairs, and, if well cared for, would continue to proclaim your good judgment and taste no matter how old they become. The same applies to suits, so permit me to suggest you buy the best you can afford even though it means buying less. Rather like the stock market: it is usually more sensible to buy just one share of blue chip than 150 shares of a one-dollar stock.

What should one buy? Well, if a man’s budget restricts him to only one suit, then I would choose something unobtrusive. A dark blue, almost black, of lightweight cloth, serviceable for both day and evening wear. I suggest lightweight because nowadays most restaurants, offices, shops and theaters are well heated during fall and winter. I found that so even, surprisingly, in Moscow. With such modern indoor comfort, one need only be concerned with cold weather while out-of-doors.

Which brings us to overcoats. I’ve learned to wear overcoats that button up to the neck yet still appear neat when left open. It mystifies me that some men wear heavy single-breasted and even double-breasted, overcoats to protect themselves from cold, yet expose the most vulnerable part of their chests with V-neck openings. By wearing an overcoat that buttons to the neck, there is no need for a scarf.

The topcoat I use for traveling can be worn spring or fall. It’s black and therefore not only less apt to show dirt and travel stains, but usable for both day and formal wear. It’s made of a gabardine-type waterproof material, with slash side pockets that enable one to reach through easily for change, or to carry a book, or something similar, protected from the rain. There is also a detachable lining that buttons inside for very wintery days. An all-purpose coat.

What about a second suit? Well, I think a grey worsted or flannel would be most serviceable. Not too light in color, not too dark. And, this time, of medium weight but not more than what is known as ten-ounce cloth. It might be advantageous to purchase an extra pair of trousers for wearing separately with a sweater or a sport shirt. A grey flannel suit, with or without extra trousers, together with a sport coat could, at a pinch, be sufficient for a weekend in the country.

A sport coat ought to be easy-fitting, its pattern neither loud nor flashy. If you’re unsure which plaid or check to choose, then one of those dark blue, single-breasted blazers that have been worn by all classes in England for years, and have since become popular here, is acceptable for most casual wear.Blazers that have been worn by all classes in England for years, and have since become popular here, is acceptable for most casual wear.

Cary Grant wearing an ascot in To Catch A Thief
Cary Grant wearing an ascot in To Catch A Thief

Except, of course, on very hot days. During summer I’ve taken to wearing light beige, washable poplin suits. They’re inexpensive and, if kept crisp and clean, acceptable almost anywhere at any time, even in the evening. Also, the coat can be worn with grey flannels at the seashore or in the country, and the trousers used separately with a sport shirt and moccasins, or a pair of those heavy-soled white canvas shoes that are popular with young college men.

Poplin or seersucker suits are the mark of no special social class or income group, but are worn by all. And, providing he is well-mannered, a young man wearing such a suit can confidently approach the other fellow’s girl, secure in knowing that his way of dress is no deterrent.

A cardigan coat sweater of lightweight wool and conservative color is a useful investment. It can be worn without a coat on many occasions, and has the advantage of being easily slipped on without those arm-raising contortions and the need to re-comb your hair.

How do I feel about ties? If I had only one to choose, then I think a black foulard, not too wide nor too narrow, is best, as it’s acceptable with most clothes. An expensive tie is not a luxury—the wrinkles fall out quicker and the knot will hold better. Personally, I wear ties of small, conservative pattern and color.

Shoes? I’ve already mentioned that good shoes look better and last longer. If a man must limit himself to only one pair of shoes for city wear, then they should be black. If two, then a brown pair of darkest chocolate color are useful with almost all suits and, if he has no moccasins, even with grey flannels. The moccasin type of shoe is, to me, almost essential and especially convenient when traveling, since they can be easily slipped off in the airplane or car.

If your pocket handkerchief is monogrammed, don’t wear it carefully folded to show the monogram peeking above your breast-pocket. That’s somehow ostentatious.

If your pocket handkerchief is monogrammed, don’t wear it carefully folded to show the monogram peeking above your breast-pocket. That’s somehow ostentatious.

Shirts should usually be white for the evening, but, in the city’s grime, it’s practical and permissible to wear a light blue or conservatively striped shirt during the day. The type of collar should suit the contours of the neck and face. As a younger man, I tried wearing a flared, too-high collar that, although modish amongst those I regarded as the sophisticates of that day, looked ridiculous on my 17 1/2- inch neck. Luckily, after the embarrassment of viewing myself from almost every angle on screen, that mistake was soon rectified. Button-cuffed shirts are simplest to manage, but if you wear cuff links, as I do, don’t, I beg you, wear those huge examples of badly designed, cheap modern jewelry. They, too, are not only ostentatious, but heavy and a menace to the enamel on your car and your girl friend’s eye.

Relaxed Cary Grant
Relaxed Cary Grant

Learn to dispense with accessories that don’t perform a necessary function. I use belts, for example, only with blue jeans, which I wear when riding, and content myself with side loops, that can be tightened at the waistband, on business suits.

A tip about trousers. Trouser cuffs seem to me unnecessary, and are apt to catch lint and dust. However, whether you prefer cuffs or not, ask the tailor to sew a strip of cloth of the same material, or a tape of similar color, on the inside at the bottom of the trouser leg where it rubs the heel of the shoe. It will keep your trouser-bottoms from fraying.

Do I have any special do’s and don’t’s about clothes? I can’t think of and rules about clothes, since there really aren’t any, but I suggest you buy trees to conform to the shape of your shoes, and keep your coats on curved hangers.

Take care of your clothes, keep them clean and in good repair. I suggest you avoid using heavily scented cologne or soaps. When I meet a man I like him to smell like a man, or not to smell at all; certainly he shouldn’t smell like a woman. Do see that your socks stay up. Nothing can spoil an otherwise well-groomed effect like sagging socks. Don’t stuff your pockets with heavy articles and bulging wallets filled with seldom-used cards. They ruin not only the neatness of your appearance but the actual tailoring of your suit.

Don’t be a snob about the way you dress. Snobbery is only a point in time. Be tolerant and helpful to the other fellow—he is yourself yesterday.

Don’t overbuy. When you contemplate an article, judge whether or not it harmonizes with items you already own. Again, avoid exaggeration of current fashions. It’s best to be inconspicuous. But inconspicuous does not mean dull. Extreme dullness can be conspicuous in itself. Just do the best you can.

Come to think of it, who knows how anything becomes bad or good taste? Who decides a standard of esthetics? If it’s the majority, then how is it the minority are the ones considered well dressed? Everything is only exactly what it is. If a man wears the kind of clothes that please him, then, providing they’re clean and don’t shock society, morals, and little children, what is the difference as long as that man is happy?

Yes. Somewhere I read that Harvard’s Professor Archibald MacLeish was asked by a student about to graduate into our highly competitive world what advice he could give him. Professor MacLeish’s answer was, “Wear your Sunday suit every day.” The inference, of course, being that the suit would give the young man such confidence in seeking positions that he would eventually own many Sunday suits, for any and all days.

Splendid advice even by itself, but it’s probable that the professor meant not only his Sunday or best suit, but also his Sunday or best smile, disposition, and behavior—knowing that each begets the other. So wear, not only your clothes, but yourself, well, with confidence. Confidence, too, is in the middle of the road, being neither aggressiveness nor timidity. Pride of new knowledge—including knowledge of clothes—continually adds to self-confidence.’


Gentleman’s Gazette

MEN FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Look like a Gentleman, Travel in Style and Enjoy the Best in Men’s Accessories at Hook & Albert. Get 20% Off Your First Order with Coupon Code TAKE20. Shop Now!

Reflecting on My Style in 2018

Here’s a detailed reflection on my style in 2018. I will be using this as a base as I refresh and evolve my wardrobe in 2019. 

New Specs and Hair

A year ago, I had a very short, straight blonde pixie. By the end of 2018, I’d grown out my fringe, embraced the natural waves, saturated the blonde, and added Modern Retro red specs and vintage white sunnies to my eyewear capsule. I’m enjoying the long fringe and wearing my ‘do both wavy and straight to change things up. I’m sticking with the ‘do until I’m bored and need another hair project. I LOVE my new specs and won’t need a refresh for 2019.

Hair & Specs

Papa

Lots of Dresses

2018 was my year for dresses. Dresses are feminine, classic, pretty, powerful, and unique amidst a sea of shorts, leggings and skinnies. I waited years for my type of dress silhouette to emerge at retail, and prioritized purchasing them while the trends were on my side. I bought several new dresses last year, and wore the heck out of the Summer styles. The two black and white stripe and polka dot polyester Topshop dresses have pilled and will be retired soon, but I enjoyed wearing them enormously. The Topshop floral mesh dress on the other hand has worn like iron, and was probably my most worn dress of the year.

I felt like a million bucks in the dressier dresses, which I styled with ballet flats, flat mules, sneakers and sandals for an everyday look. I’ve recently added the sweater dresses and look forward to wearing them frequently over the next four months. For 2019, I’m excited to wear my dresses again, and to add to the capsule because I LOVE dresses.

Dress

A Few Meaningful Skirts

Although I prefer dresses, I did add a couple of skirts to my wardrobe this year. One Summer and one Fall/Winter, which I’ve worn as much as my dresses. Not sure I want to add more skirts in 2019 since I prefer the simplicity of a dress, but you never know.

Extra Summer Items

I enjoy hot weather and Summer dressing best of all. I thoroughly enjoyed the long and hot Summer I had in 2018, between a two-week trip to coastal Italy, a hotter that normal Seattle Summer, and a second home in Salt Lake City. For the first time in seventeen years I did not have to hold back on Summer wardrobe purchases because I finally lived in the climate that warranted them. Looks like the same hot and long Summer will come true for 2019.

White Footwear

I wear a lot a white footwear because it bookends my platinum hair, adds a crisp touch to outfits, creates a nostalgic ‘80s vibe, matches my pearls, and works well with a colour-rich wardrobe. I’ve been wearing white shoes for as long as I can remember and embrace it as a signature look that I will continue to sport until I need a change. I wear white footwear throughout the year

I have many pairs of white and off-white shoes, so I can share the wear. I wear white booties, shooties, loafers, mules, sneakers, and even two pairs of narrow sandals that magically fit my feet. As an active urban walker, the sandals saved my feet in very hot Italy and in Salt Lake City. Unfortunately I ruined my mules in Positano walking up and down countless flights of stairs, so I’ll need to replace those in 2019.

I added these white shoes to my collection this year, and they are workhorses. I’ve duplicated some of the styles, and am open to expanding my white shoe capsule in 2019.

Statement Outerwear

I added some fun outerwear to my wardrobe in 2018. Three dressy pieces and one casual. A citron cocoon coat for Spring, a short cape for Fall, an animal print coat for Winter, and sporty navy puffer for whenever. All of the items are workhorses.

For 2019, I’m open to replacing my very old dressy red coat, getting a light pink coat, and maybe a turquoise coat if the colour becomes popular.

Lots of Colour and Pattern

I wear a large assortment of colour ranging from blush pink, light blue, sour brights, and burgundy, through to a hint of neon and some olive. I’m equally committed to neutrals like dark blue, all shades of white, a bit of black, and earth tones. With a wardrobe rich in non-neutrals and neutrals, I can pander to my mood and create dark or light neutral outfits, pastel looks, brights from head to toe, or mix up the lot. I combine neutrals and non-neutrals in ways that are jarring to some, but soothing to me. I’ll wear three to four solid brights in an outfit, remix pastels with brights, wear three reds in one look, create high-contrast combinations or low-contrast tonal vibes, and throw in a pattern if it tickles my fancy.

I’m quite set in my ways when it comes to patterns and like the classics best: stripes, pinstripes, polka dots, plaids, some florals, and a smattering of animal print. I like to pattern mix too. For 2019, I want to continue wearing lots of colour across all wardrobe items, my neutrals, classic patterns, and mixing it up to create ample variety since I crave a change in colour more than a change in silhouette.

Colour and Pattern

Trendy Jeans

I frequently wear solid blue and white jeans, and enjoy floral jeans too. I prefer dark blue washes to light, and my affection for white jeans is as strong as ever. Jeans are the trendier part of my style, which meant that they needed an update last year. At the moment, I like to wear simple white jeans silhouettes, but prefer blue jeans with bells and whistles. For 2019, the jeans will have to be pretty darn special and unique if I’m going to commit to a purchase, because I feel very sorted with jeans, and have ample variety. These were my favourite new jeans in 2018.

Pants

My love for fun casual and dressy pants runs as deep as my love for dresses. I passed on two pairs of red pants and an orange pair that I haven’t been able to replace, and I miss them. I did find a pair of flared toffee chinos that work extremely well on long flights, and feel fresh amidst the skinnies. I wear them with big white sneakers, a body-con top, and feel on-trend. I got a pair of luxe mustard-y chartreuse velvet pants that became instant workhorses after some alterations. I received a pair of fun floral pants as a gift which are festive to wear year round in Seattle. And last, you can’t see the sporty cream tuxedo stripe detailing on the black pants in the stock photo, but I also had them altered to create a perfect fit, and am enjoying the dressy look with casual kick.

For 2019, the first item on my shopping list is a pair of red pants. They don’t need to be tomato red, which will help with the search.

Pinstripe Suit

My holiday look for 2018 was a burgundy pinstripe pant suit that I mismatched with a burgundy pinstriped blouse, barely black knee-highs, and gold loafers. I finished off the look with cherry red clutch, watermelon specs, and chartreuse coat. I’ve worn the outfit to three holiday events, and LOVED it. One of my favourite holiday looks of all time. Warm, dressy, comfy, interesting, and will not date.

Flat Footwear

I gave up on heels three years ago and haven’t looked back. I wear flat footwear with heel heights of up to one inch 85% of the time. Sometimes I wear a 1.25 inch heel and very occasionally a 1.5 inch heel. My very dressy shoes have 1.5 inch heels. I passed on the boots with two inch heels that I kept to wear with flares because I never reach for them. I don’t miss wearing heels to elongate and elevate my outfits at all. I elongate and elevate outfits in other ways. And I’ve simply gotten used to my outfit proportions sans heels. Now more than ever, flat footwear is part of my signature style.

Family of Furlas

I LOVE handbags and am hopelessly devoted to every one of my wardrobe pets. I like to make a statement with them. I swap out my bags frequently, and like them to match my outfit in a deliberate way. I fell in love with Furla bags on our last trip to Hong Kong, and have been hooked ever since. They are beautifully made quality items, gorgeously structured, dressy, very robust, and have gold hardware. They are crisp, simple, and versatile, looking equally good incorporated into casual outfits. They are excellent bags to travel with too. Over the years, I’ve been steadily adding to my collection and now have a fab Furla family. Apart from the two large grey and oatmeal satchels, they are all workhorses.

For 2019, I need to replace my citron Furla, which is my most used bag of all time. Between sunscreen, insect repellent, and perspiration in a very hot and humid Italy last year, I’ve worn away the inside of the handles of the bag and it can’t be fixed.

Naked Nails

I don’t use fingernail or toenail polish. I bat for Team Naked Nails. I use a clear nail strengthener and that’s that. It will be just the same in 2019.

Gold and Pearls

I am completely committed to yellow gold and I’m trying not to purchase anything with silver hardware. I’m not into mixing metals, so it’s quite the challenge. I do jewellery in a very minimal but meaningful way. I wear my pearl wedding ring, gold watch and pearl bracelets every day, and one of two chunky white pearl necklaces almost every day. That’s it! The pearl pieces are real and have been custom-made. I don’t wear earrings.

2018 was an excellent shopping season, especially for dresses. I’m in a very happy place with my style and wardrobe, and grateful that my wardrobe is functional, manageable, varied, colour-rich, and makes me feel fabulous.

NOTE: Some rich content in this post was omitted because it isn’t supported by the feed. Please visit the post on youlookfab.com to see the additional content.


YouLookFab

BEST DEAL UPDATE:

Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Watch

The end of the year means it’s time to hand out some awards. No, there’re no little statues to pass along, but over the next few days we’ll still highlight some of the best in affordable men’s style from this past year. And it was a good one. Feel free to send in additional nominations to joe@dappered.com.

 

Orient Bambino Small Seconds – $ 150 (when on Massdrop)$ 169

Orient Bambino on Dappered.com

Shown above with the oft-desired champagne dial.

How do you improve upon a legend? You slap a perfectly proportioned, subtly textured small seconds hand on the dial, keep the rest simple, and stick with the mid to classically sized diameter and domed crystal.

The Orient Bambino Sub Seconds quickly became a hit. So much so that it’s really pretty hard to find some of the color combinations (like the champagne dial shown above). But play your cards right, and you can get one of these insta-classics for around $ 150 during a mega sale or a drop on Massdrop. Full review of the small seconds can be found here.

Also Receiving Votes: The Seiko Samurai Automatic, The Timex Hand Wound & Automatic Marlins, the dependable Seiko SKX line, the Citizen Nighthawk, Hamilton’s Khaki Field Automatic.


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Best Affordable Style of 2018 – The Blazer / Sportcoat

The end of the year means it’s time to hand out some awards.  No, there’re no little statues to pass along, but over the next few days we’ll still highlight some of the best in affordable men’s style from this past year.  And it was a good one. Feel free to send in additional nominations to joe@dappered.com.

 

The Rise of the Knit Sportcoat

There is no specific winner this year. But a certain style of blazer/sportcoat absolutely took center stage this year. And that style was the knit sportcoat.

Dappered.com

Dressing down a sportcoat gets real easy when it’s knit.

From high end brands to bargain big box stores, seemingly everyone did a knit sportcoat this year. And when executed well, these things are hugely versatile. Polished enough to wear with an OCBD and chinos, or dress it down with a t-shirt or henley and jeans.

Knit Sportcoats

Some are made of sweatshirt material. Some are made of fancy Italian wool. Some are made of a wool/cotton blend. This past year knit sportcoats came in just about every color and fabric combination imaginable. And we’ll kick off 2019 (once we’re back from a break) with a round up of the best of the best that you can get your hands on. So stay tuned for that.

Also Receiving Votes: The spendy, but incredibly nice, unconstructed Italian wool blazers from Bonobos. Spier & Mackay’s navy wool hopsack blazer. Lands’ End’s Half-Canvas Wool Blazer. Brooks Brothers on sale Regent Fit, wool or wool blend Sportcoats. J. Crew’s Legacy Wool BlazersSuitsupply’s Havana Fit Sportcoats in whatever fabric that fits your needs. 


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Style Scenario: Santa on Christmas Eve

What are you going to wear? Or in this instance, what is HE going wear? St. Nick has a huge job ahead of him. Lots of miles to cover, lots of soot filled chimneys to get down, lots of cookie crumbs & milk spills to avoid. It’s a dirty job, but that doesn’t mean Santa can’t look sharp while doing it. Here’s what he might wear while putting another 25k-50k miles on the sleigh. (Top Photo Credit)

Style Scenario: Santa on Christmas Eve | Dappered.com

The Sweater: Suitsupply Wool/Cashmere Turtleneck – $ 169. A splurge, but… c’mon. He’s gotta be comfortable and look great on the big night. Great for keeping the arctic blast off his neck. 70 % wool and 30% cashmere. Mrs. Claus has been experimenting with paleo eating habits this year, and in the process St. Nick has shed a little weight around the middle thanks to cutting out most carbs. Thus, a trimmer fitting sweater from Suitsupply this time around. Want something cheaper? Try this from Orvis or this from Woolovers.

The Pants: BR x Kevin Love Soft Stretch Athletic Tapered Chino – $ 43.99 ($ 98). Banana Republic’s collaboration with Kevin Love has produced some really, really nice stuff. And now that these are on sale and an additional half off? They’re at a GAP level price point.

The Watch: Citizen Nighthawk – $ 189.98. With all those tight brick chimneys, this isn’t the night to break out the rose gold Rolex that Mrs. Claus gave him for a 1500th anniversary present. Yes, the Elves in R&D finally got around to updating the software on the sled, so he can now keep track of all the time zones and his sleigh-to-tree-to-sleigh split times with the on-board computer, but just in case they have a power failure he favors an aviation style watch. You never know when you’re gonna need a slide rule. It came in super handy that one year when the alternator failed over Prague.

The Belt: Weifert Stretch Woven Elastic Belt – $ 11.58. Yes that’s a stretchy woven belt. Do you have any idea as to how many cookies he’s got to wolf down that night?

The Coat: Custom Gore-Tex Cashmere-Lined Topcoat w/ Horween Leather Belt. One of a kind. Made by the Mrs. w/ help from Elf Q Branch. Not pictured: Matching hat with drop down night vision equipped face shield, as well as a wireless blue tooth ear piece connected to NORAD via the on-sleigh wi-fi hotspot.

The Base Layer: L.L. Bean Made in Canada Cotton/Wool Union Suit – $ 69.00. Santa’s a classics guy, so although the new-fangled neoprene base layers may wick moisture better, he’s still going with a traditional union suit. At least it does have a layer of wool in there, so that’ll function a bit better than the super old-school all cotton long johns.

The Socks: Wigwam Pikes Pro Lightweight Outdoor Crew Socks in Charcoal – $ 17. Nylon/Merino blend with enough cushioning and blister prevention properties to keep his feet happy while circumnavigating the globe.

The Boots: Allen Edmonds Longbranch in Black – $ 276 ($ 395). With red laces, of course. Port Washington isn’t that far from his place, so Santa’s been frequenting Allen Edmonds for years. The Longbranch is like an even tougher version of the Dalton. Wingtip details, textured leather, and a lug sole. Perfect for Christmas Eve, with all of those slippery rooftops and what not.

The Air Freshener: Car Freshener Royal Pine – $ 0.77. You try sitting behind eight tiny reindeer (or nine, depending on the weather) for an entire evening.

The Nice/Naughty List + Pen: Waterproof Field Notes – $ 12.95 | Fisher Space Pen – $ 40. Were you expecting an iPad? The master list stays on the scrolls at the pole, but for the big night, a duplicate is transcribed to a pack of weather resistant “Expedition” Field Notes. Meanwhile, the pen works in extreme temperatures and will write from any angle. Even in zero gravity. And that’s perfect for maintaining order on the list when Blitzen gets a wild hair up his tuckus and leads the team on spontaneous inverted aerial maneuvers over the Aegean.

The Gloves: Ralph Lauren Quilted Gloves in Black – $ 46.80 ($ 78). Warm, but also offers the dexterity and durability to handle the reins with authority. Touch screen compatible too, so he can easily swipe through his various routes for the evening.

The Goggles: Mark 4 Split Lens Flight Goggles – $ 88Sheepskin face cushion. Prescription progressive lenses by the Reykjavik Costco Optical Department. After market heads up display via DARPA.

The Cap/Crash Helmet: Shearling Sheepskin Leather Aviator Cap – $ 49.99. Santa has taken some spills on rooftops over the millennia, so to stay compliant with concussion protocol, Papa Elf has recently added this to St. Nick’s kit. Sheepskin base keeps him warm, while the safety team has added aftermarket padding based on the crystalline atomic structure of marshmallow fluff.


Dappered Style Mail

FASHION DEAL UPDATE:

Evan Spiegel’s Imperious Style Made Snapchat a Success—Until Users Fled

Snap, which was once seen as a viable competitor to Facebook, is struggling after the CEO ignored warnings about a redesign that proved unpopular. With usership and the share price falling, analysts and employees are raising questions about whether his trust-your-gut management instincts can help pull the company through.
WSJ.com: WSJD

SHOPPING DISCOUNTS UPDATE:

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10 Ways to Find Your Personal Style

Websites including The Gentleman’s Gazette possess an encyclopedic amount of content on how to dress well, while thousands of images of iGents, dandies and influencers dance across Instagram feeds every day. Faced with all the content online, how do you know what suits you?

Those who are new to the game of classic men’s style can quickly become overwhelmed when trying to determine what they might like to wear. Even men who have been into classic style for years can fall into a rut. So, how do you go about discovering your personal style in the face of all the advice and information out there? Here are our top 10 tips.

Spezzato Suit Jacket and Matching Vest with Contrasting Yellow Pants and Brown Oxfords

Not everybody likes the idea of yellow pants, but they perfectly suit Sven Raphael Schneider’s style

1. Put Your Style into Words

If you’re reading this article, it’s established that you like to dress in a certain way, so you already have some sense of what you like and don’t like. Take out your favorite fountain pen and try writing it on paper (or just use your computer). Describe your style in a sentence or even a few words:

  • How would you describe your ideal look? It might be “vintage academic” or “Italian sprezzatura,” but it could also be “put together” or “preppy.”
  • What do you enjoy wearing? Do you do vests? Do you like bombers and safari jackets or prefer a regatta blazer?
  • What are your strongest likes and dislikes?
  • Who are your style icons? What do you like about their look?
Fountain pen paper and a Lamy Safari fountain pen

Engage in a writing exercise to define your style

2. Gather Inspiring Images

To help you describe your style, you can save images of styles, outfits, and pieces that you like. Pinterest is one of the largest social media sites in the world, behind only Facebook, Twitter, and LinkedIn and is the easiest way to do thisLinkedIn and is the easiest way to do this. Classic style boards on Pinterest

A set of Pinterest boards used to collect classic menswear images. Although it has a reputation for photos of craft projects and recipes, it is an easy way to capture and store images that you like related to classic men’s style.

If you have the Pinterest app on your phone, you can grab any image from any site and put it in your digital scrapbook or board. Looking at your pins will then not only help you remember clothes you want to buy but, viewed collectively, will give you a holistic sense of what your style is like. Of course, as you gather images, you may do so from other people’s Pinterest boards, which brings us to item 3.

3. Find Style Role Models (Plural) to Follow

As you go through social media, you’ll encounter numerous well-dressed gents whether on the number one source of online style inspiration–Instagram–on Tumblr microblogs or Pinterest boards. It’s important to realize though that even though you may like the personal style of someone with 15,000 Instagram followers, what he wears may not necessarily work on you.

The Style Icon - Cary Grant in Berlin in 1960

The Style Icon – Cary Grant in Berlin in 1960

The same goes for well-dressed men outside of social media whether Cary Grant to David Beckham or Idris Elba. You may be older or younger and have a different body type or skin tone, to name just a few things that can influence what looks best on a specific individual. However, with so many people posting to social media, odds are you will find somebody on Instagram with a body type or general appearance similar to yours.

Style icons Samuel Jackson, Andreas Weinås, and Alan See

Style icons Samuel Jackson, Andreas Weinås, and Alan See

Everyone’s style is really an amalgam of their influences, from family members to friends to celebrities and random strangers online. Along the same lines, the best approach with style icons is to take note of specific things you like from different people. It’s important not to imitate just one person because you risk coming across as a mere copy.

If you wear your watch over your sleeve cuffs, it’s obvious you are just copying Agnelli. You can admire the way Sven Raphael Schneider wears accessories like cufflinks, boutonnieres and pocket squares while also liking the contemporary urban edge of Dan Trepanier. You can love how Mark Cho effortlessly combines colors but realize the fuller cuts of his jackets is not for you. Pick and choose from the smorgasbord of influences with the understanding that you don’t need to be loyal to any one style guru.

Gianni Agnelli and his Patek Philippe 1415 HU, or Universal Time

Gianni Agnelli’s characteristic sprezzatura style is difficult to copy

4. Be True to Yourself

Even when you follow multiple influences, aim to be authentic. Do what’s true to you, not what’s popular. There are popular sprezzatura style choices seen everywhere online like keeping your button-down shirt collar unbuttoned or wearing the back blade of your necktie longer than the front and below your waistline. These are trendy, fashionable approaches that are more about uniformity than originality.

Color, texture and hats at Pitti Uomo 88 - photo by Pitti Uomo

Beware imitating what’s popular online, such as the Pitti Peacocks

It can be tempting to buy tight suits, wear a suit jacket with sweatpants, or have your pants hemmed above your ankles because “everyone” is doing it in Suitsupply ads or photos from Pitti Uomo (and getting 2000 “likes”).

Sven Raphael Schneider in Three Piece Suit with double breasted waistcoat

Sven Raphael Schneider only wears pleated pants, because they are his style, not because they are popular (which they aren’t!)

Unless this really makes you happy and is how you see your personal style, be cautious of following the crowd. The key is to be comfortable–both physically in the clothes you choose and the way you look. Dress for yourself, not for others.

5. Don’t Be Afraid to Experiment

To get to your personal style, there’s really no substitute for hands-on experimentation. If you see someone who wears an olive green linen jacket, you may want to try it yourself.

Green linen and gingham

Linus Norbom wearing a green linen jacket with a green and white gingham shirt and white pants

You can look at pictures all you want, but you won’t know whether you like pleated pants until you put them on. Though in theory, your rounded face shape would look better with a point collar shirt, you won’t know for sure until you wear one and compare it with a spread collar.

Collars formality scale

Try different collars in different formalities to see what suits you

I tried point collars, cutaways, spreads, long points and button downs for shirt collars before settling on which I liked best. The first few years of my interest in menswear, I bought almost the full range of colors in sport coats, but since then I’ve boiled my favorites down to blues, browns, and beiges.

Spezzato with vest and pants

Try experimenting, such as wearing wristbands or splitting up a suit

If possible, you can try things in boutiques and stores to see how you look at them. Alternatively, for pieces you aren’t too sure of, you can buy thrift or used. Yes, you will make mistakes and buy something experimental that you won’t like, but that’s what return policies are for.

If it takes you longer to figure out something is not for you, there’s always reseller markets like eBay or Grailed. Even if you sell at a loss, try not to look at it as wasted money. Instead, think of the journey as part of the reward. It’s like ordering a new kind of sushi or visiting a city you’ve never been to before. You’re in it for the experience, and there should be no regrets. It’s all part of the learning process.

6. Understand Your Physical Characteristics

One the reason we’re not into trends is that they rarely suit everyone. The skinny fit of suits today, for example, only works well for certain body types. If you want to capture your “own” style, it’s better to work with what you have rather than trying to conform to trends. Start by considering your body – your physique, your age, and your skin tone, for instance.

If you have pale skin, a dark navy shirt will wash you out. If you have brown skin, you can pull off more vibrant or hotter colors. If you’re over fifty, maybe slim fit trousers and a loafer without socks wouldn’t look best on you.

Grimod in Sky blue linen suit

Great style is possible at any age; here, Herbert Stricker in sky blue linen suit

A mistake is trying to impose a style on yourself that doesn’t work for you just because you saw someone else do it online. The desire to wear anything you want is strong but not always possible. It’s a sign of stylistic maturity to realize that just because you admire how someone wore an item, it doesn’t mean you can or should wear it yourself.

7. Understand Your Environment

As you form your style, realize that it will be influenced by where you are situated. The way men dress on the internet often has very little to do with real life. What someone wears at Pitti Uomo or to sell a product is designed first to get attention in a medium full of so many competing images. Something may be photographed such a way to make it desirable, but ask yourself whether your personal environment would suit the style.

David Evans in Denim and brown country sport coat with sweater

David Evans showing a country style

If you live in Manhattan, you may be able to wear suits most of the time if you want to, but if you’re in rural Kentucky, this stylistic choice will make you stick out like a sore thumb. If you’re in Italy, you can wear bright, fitted jackets that are at home there, but in London, they’ll look out of place. Realistically, part of your personal style–what you wear–is dictated by your environment.

Cri De La Soie Silk Knit ties by Fort Belvedere

Knit ties might be part of your signature look

This can be as basic as not wearing an elaborate pocket square because you are dressing for a conservative workplace or wearing sports coats and knit ties instead of suits and printed silk ties because you are never in a formal setting.

This may seem like it’s forcing you to compromise, but unless you want to march entirely to the beat of your own drum, you will have to fit your style to your milieu. Even within these limitations, you’ll still have a lot of possibilities.

8. Realize That You Can Have Multiple Styles

Kids may also ruin your hair but they will have a blast

Many people are surprised to find that Sven Raphael Schneider’s summer uniform is a polo with shorts and boat shoes

A further consolation is that you’re never really bound to a single authoritative “look”; the reality is that you’ll have multiple styles, and it would be rigid to assume that you need to wear the same sort of thing no matter where you go.

Neil Patrick Harris as Barney Stinson

You don’t need to wear a suit on every occasion like Barney Stinson

You can wear suits for work but sport coats without ties on the weekend. You don’t need to be Barney Stinson from How I Met Your Mother and suit up all the time.

Ralph Lauren's Country Lifestyle

Ralph Lauren’s Country Lifestyle

When you visit the countryside, you might wear sweaters and tattersall shirts with a Barbour jacket. When you’re taking a beach holiday, perhaps you’ll put on a linen shirt and espadrilles. You may still have certain common threads through all your looks–like always wearing a bit of blue–but odds are your style will really be multiple styles.

9. Assess Your Closet

Once you have accumulated a decent wardrobe, you can get to your core style by auditing and managing your wardrobe. If you have a social media presence or just for yourself, take a selfie when you wear something you think looks particularly good on you or that you get compliments on. When you have a bunch of photos, review them to see which pieces repeat the most often; these are the foundation of your personal style.

The Closet if Giancarlo Maresca

Take occasional stock of your closet contents

If we break it down, finding your style really comes in two major parts. The first is casting a wide net and trying a lot of things. The second is culling things you don’t ‘wear to get to a core wardrobe.

Culling

Besides looking at photos, look at your closet itself and get rid of things you haven’t worn for a long time, whether a certain number of months or a year max. If you don’t pick them, it’s a sign that they’re not your style. When you first start out, you’re enthusiastic and want to have more outfits, but eventually, you’ll reduce your choices and settle on a sort of uniform that represents you. For me, it’s sports coats and ties with interesting woven textures.

Spezzato with jeans

The author wearing two of his favorites: a sports coat and a textured tie

The more you try, the less you continue to experiment because you learn what does and doesn’t work for you and settle into “your style.” This can change depending on factors like age or weight, but for the most part, you engage in less trial and error.

This doesn’t mean that you have to stop adding to your wardrobe, though. If you find you like wearing navy wool trousers, you’ll soon want navy cotton pants, wool flannelpleated and flat front, high rise and medium rise.  The fact is if you’re serious about style, you’ll never want to stop working at it. The difference is that, after a time, you’ll buy from a more limited range of things because you know you look best in blue, that you prefer a spread collar shirt, and that you like an unlined tie.

Short Vintage Tie - excellent if you are a shorter man

You may prefer a spread collar shirt or a short tie

As your eye develops, you can know at a glance whether an item you see is suitable for you. You’ll be more discerning and purge things from your closet that you no longer wear because they don’t fit your core style.

Pharrell Williams Hat

Your signature items don’t need to be as showy as Pharrell Williams’ hat

What you’re left with will include signature pieces that define you. I don’t mean something like Karl Lagerfield’s sunglasses and stiff collars or Pharell Williams’ hat–these are more celebrity costume than classic style–but your signature look may be a penchant for pocket squares, odd vests (meaning not part of a matching suit) or colorful shoelaces. Think of it as your brand in terms of style–an aspect that is recognizably and consistently you.

Colorful shoelaces like these from Fort Belvedere can be a signature of your look

10. Know that it’s a Continuous Journey

Once you go down the rabbit-hole of traditional men’s style, you have a lifetime to enjoy the fruits of the hobby (obsession?), and even when you have a good sense of your style, things will not get stale.

If you relocate, change the sort of job you do, gain or lose weight or simply get older, your style will change in some way. When you reach a certain age, you may wear more comfortable or less showy clothes, probably of higher quality, but then again, you may always like a good Prince of Wales check.

Tight vs. Comfortable Suit Fits

Your taste in clothes may change over time from fitted to more comfortable.

Conclusion

A given is still that your style won’t (and shouldn’t) ever be static. I’ve shared some of the aspects of the journey you are likely to encounter but can tell you that there’s no substitute for experiencing it firsthand yourself. There will be errors and missteps, but this is part of the learning and the fun.

Have you already experienced some of the stages mentioned? What other advice do you have for finding your personal style? Share in the Comments section below.


Gentleman’s Gazette

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